Ryan (camaroz1985) got me interested in these pegs recently:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Buell-XB-Rider-Footpeg-Kit,-N0006.1AD_W0QQitemZ250404871793QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20090411?IMSfp=TL09041115100 04r27797

They arrived yesterday; however, with grandchildren visiting this weekend, I didn't get a chance to install them until this afternoon. No DIY, since there is already one on KF and all you need to do is drill the pin hole out with a 15/32" bit and reduce the width by .104".

My legs now fit below the gas tank!

Thanks to lloyd on KF for the following pics:

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc89/zrex1/buellpeg3.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc89/zrex1/buellpeg1.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc89/zrex1/buellpeg2.jpg

How are the grip on those pegs? The texture looks a bit similar to the passenger pegs...

The grip is actually better than the passenger pegs. I considered swapping the passenger pegs ala kkim, but wanted the additional leg room, which is exactly what I now have. I haven't ridden the bike, yet, just sat on it while it was supported by the rear stand.

I did this peg mod last summer because i'm 6'2" and i needed to drop my knees under the tank ridge. There seems to be a few people that have done this and it is a great mod for taller people. Here is a good picture of the stockers next to the buell pegs:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e139/kylerwhite/164.jpg

I'll be ordering a set of these tonight. :D

Ordered. :rofl:

4 minutes. Impressive. Let us know how you like them.

I'd be more impressed if that was the shipping time.

I'm not actually that tall (5'10"), but these make long trips a lot more comfortable. I did 2 5 hour trips last weekend with only one stop each way. I felt completely fine afterward as well (even went out to the bar for a couple hours :D). With the stock pegs after a 3 hour ride (1 stop) I would be kind of stiff.

Looks like I have found yet another mod for the bike. Will it ever end?..
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Probably not :D

Definitely had to adjust both the shift lever, rear brake lever, and brake light switch. Started raining before I finished the adjustments, so I rode the bike in my garage for a few minutes
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on the rear stand! Hopefully, no rain when I get home tomorrow. :D

Wow all that just to put on a couple of pegs? You'd think you were installing rear sets or something.

I had to adjust all that too. Didn't realize the brake light switch at first and for my first ride the brake light was on the whole time (oops)

It is a a bit more work than installing regular pegs, but when you are done...:gwred:

Everything is easier with these pegs. U-turns are more natural and definitely easier, since I don't have to move my legs away from the tank, in order to avoid the handlebars!

Yes, my legs fit under the tank better. Only down side is my heel hits the muffler, if I rotate it down while riding on the balls of my feet. The pros outnumber the cons, so I guess I will have to keep these mounted. :D

Mine are waiting in my mailbox according to USPS.com

Is there a write up on installing these and the necessary adjustments?
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I also did this about a year ago, 6'2" and needed leg room, I love the mod and it's great for tall riders.

Mine are waiting in my mailbox according to USPS.com

Is there a write up on installing these and the necessary adjustments?
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lloyd254 on KF (where the pics in my first post came from) shows the basics. Before you start, use a LEVEL and place it parallel to the ground on the top of each front peg. Then measure the distance from the bottom of the level to the top of each lever (shift and rear brake).

You will need to enlarge the mounting hole. I used a 15/32" drill bit, as that is the exact size of the pin on the OEM pegs. After drilling the hole, you need to reduce the width of the peg where it fits into the frame mount. In my case, it needed to be narrowed by .104" or .052" on each side, which is what I did. I used a bench mounted grinder, but others used a hand file, belt sander, or dremel.

After the new pegs are installed, the shift lever and rear brake lever will need to be adjusted downward the distance that you measured on each side. The brake light switch will need to be adjusted downward (turn clockwise...a lot) about the same amount as the brake lever. If you follow the wire for the brake light switch up to the frame, you will see 2 little pinch clips holding the wire against the frame. Open the clips up so the wire can be removed. This will allow you to turn the brake light switch housing without kinking the wire too much. Do not disconnect the brake light switch!!! Adjust the switch AFTER the brake lever!!!!!!!!

To adjust the brake lever and the shift lever, you can search KF or use these instructions: (1) brake - loosen the larger nut and turn the smaller nut in the direction that causes the lever to move downward. Once adjusted, tighten the larger nut. (2) shifter - using two 10mm open end wrenches, one on each nut on the shifter rod at the same time. Decide which nut you want to undo first, but both must be loosened, so I did the left (left hand threads) one first. Turn both wrenches in opposite directions (clockwise in relation to each other) at the same time. The left nut will break loose. Now to do the right one, I had to use a small vise grip plyer on the rod and then turn the 10mm wrench on the right nut counter-clockwise. With BOTH nuts loosened a lot, you can now turn the rod by hand and watch the shift lever move. Turn the rod until the lever has moved down the distance you measured previously. Using the vise grip plyer on the rod, tighten the right nut, until it is snug. Then tighten the left nut (counter clockwise).

Go ride the bike. Repeat the above if needed.

As I stated previously, I rode without making any adjustments one time. It's doable, but not enjoyable!!

Sam do your pegs fold smoothly? Mine drag a little bit. I think I need to grind some more, but I was trying to get them done before a trip so I didn't spend as much time as I would have liked.

Good write-up on the process. I did the exact same as you except I used a 12mm drill bit (probably the true size, but 15/32 is very close).

I did the exact same as you except I used a 12mm drill bit (probably the true size, but 15/32 is very close).

Ryan,

Actually the 12 mm is larger than the 15/32! 12/25.4=.4724, while 15/32=.46875! :eek:

On the fitting, I chose to take off equal amounts on both sides. To do this, use the grinding wheel face for the easier side and the wheel axle side for the more difficult side. You actually end up taking off some of the radius, which allows the peg to fold easily.

The following picture details the grinding areas, with the yellow arrows pointing to the easier side to grind with the face of the grinding wheel. The blue lines detail the section removed with the wheel axle side.

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=85&pictureid=1171

I will try to convey with the following the portions of the grinding wheel I'm referring too:

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=85&pictureid=1172

The big blue rectangle represents the grinding wheel with the axle passing thru the center. The blue arrow points to the wheel face, while the yellow arrow points to the wheel axle side.

That's what I did as well, just still a little tight I guess (or one side wasn't ground straight to the other).

I'm not too concerned about less than 0.004" difference ;) (That's about a sheet of paper.)

See post #20 above. I added more info.

I understood. Did something similar myself then used a file to square up the corner left by the rounded edge of the grinding wheel.

The more I ride with these pegs, the better I like them. I never realized how close you can get your legs tucked in, if they are BELOW the gas tank.

One thing that I didn't like about the pegs, WAS the lean indicator stuck out to far. I was hitting it with my legs, so today I took them off. I don't lean my bike anywhere close to that limit.

:bump:

Thanks Sam!

I have tried every foot peg set up .The Buell XB is what I ended up with. I have long legs and a bad knee. Plus getting my body folded up on the 250 took some trial and error.

If you look close I shortened the brake pedal . I just cut off the arm and welded it to the side .

Here's a better picture of my pegs:

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=85&pictureid=2217

Im wondering how these will work with the brackets that move the pegs back, if being 6ft is short enough to just use the stockers with the brackets or if i would benefit more from the brakets and buell pegs?

If you're after the "racer" look, I say go with the brackets. The Buell Pegs do one thing...lower your foot position by roughly 1". This allows my legs to fit below the gas tank and compress the plastic side panels. The brackets will allow you to get more leg room, just in a different plane, while forcing you into a more forward leaning position.

As you adjust the pegs back they go up .With the Buell XB foot pegs added you end up where you started .All the adjustable pegs go up . I made a plate to go down and I only rode it for a week .I cant describe it but it sucked . I felt sorta planted and could not move around on the seat. I took them off and settled for the XB pegs with stock rear sets.
There is two problems with moving down and back . One is reaching the brake lever. The other is the shifter hits the foot peg bracket going into first . And the bolt for the side stand will get hit at some point.

oh cool, can u use the rear pegs while moving back

:brick: