So I finally got all of my sensors installed and some preliminary data collected. They seem to be calibrated properly, at least the temperature ones. I would have to double check the oil pressure sensor, but the results make sense so far.

For the oil pressure, thanks to "DaBlue1" for the suggestion of the stock oil pressure port rather than messing around with the banjo. Finding a M18 to 1/8" was a little hard, but I eventually got one and a 90 degree adapter. fits perfectly (see below).

I wanted to keep everything stock, so I bought an in-line adapter for the coolant sensor to add it. I had to change the coolant anyways so it made sense to just pop it in (see below).

Finally, I installed the oil temperature sensor. Since I didn't want it to be in the way when changing the oil, I used the old "left over" drain bolt on the bottom of the bike from the previous modules. By the way, when I drained the oil and then pulled the old bolt off, more oil came out! Might be a better way to drain the oil by removing both to get as much of the oil out as possible (see below).

You can see below on how the data is displayed on the screen.

DATA:

Well for the oil temperature and coolant temperature, when the coolant is below operating temp, the oil seems to be about 15-20 degrees cooler than the coolant. So if the coolant is about 160, the oil is probably around 140. However, as it gets closer or over operating temp (190-200), the two numbers get much closer, with the oil maybe only 5-10 degrees behind. The fan turns on when it is supposed to when the coolant gets up to that temperature.

Oil pressure is interesting. I seem to have found out why a heavy brake could cause low oil pressure. When starting the bike cold, oil pressure is HIGH, like 45-50 PSI. Once it is warmed up and riding it drops. The oil pressure relief valve must be about 65-70 PSI, because at about 7,500 RPM, the oil pressure peaks at 67-69 PSI and does not get higher if RPMs increase.

However, when the bike is warmed up and is idling (around 1200-1300RPM), I have seem the oil pressure sit at about 7 PSI, and I have even seen it get as low as 4-5PSI, right before the 3 or so PSI trigger of the stock oil pressure gauge, so it would make sense if braking hard and having the clutch pulled in where only the idle of the engine is turning the pump to get it below that mark. Obviously when engine is off, it reads 0 PSI.

When riding weather gets better (and hotter) I'll see how things act when at full operating temperature (coolant around 190-210).

Any questions, let me know. :D

Cool! So what do you do with all this information?

Oil pressure is interesting. I seem to have found out why a heavy brake could cause low oil pressure. When starting the bike cold, oil pressure is HIGH, like 45-50 PSI. Once it is warmed up and riding it drops. The oil pressure relief valve must be about 65-70 PSI, because at about 7,500 RPM, the oil pressure peaks at 67-69 PSI and does not get higher if RPMs increase.

However, when the bike is warmed up and is idling (around 1200-1300RPM), I have seem the oil pressure sit at about 7 PSI, and I have even seen it get as low as 4-5PSI, right before the 3 or so PSI trigger of the stock oil pressure gauge, so it would make sense if braking hard and having the clutch pulled in where only the idle of the engine is turning the pump to get it below that mark. Obviously when engine is off, it reads 0 PSI.

Interesting data.

What oil are you running?

....Oil pressure is interesting. I seem to have found out why a heavy brake could cause low oil pressure. When starting the bike cold, oil pressure is HIGH, like 45-50 PSI. Once it is warmed up and riding it drops. The oil pressure relief valve must be about 65-70 PSI, because at about 7,500 RPM, the oil pressure peaks at 67-69 PSI and does not get higher if RPMs increase.

However, when the bike is warmed up and is idling (around 1200-1300RPM), I have seem the oil pressure sit at about 7 PSI, and I have even seen it get as low as 4-5PSI, right before the 3 or so PSI trigger of the stock oil pressure gauge, so it would make sense if braking hard and having the clutch pulled in where only the idle of the engine is turning the pump to get it below that mark. Obviously when engine is off, it reads 0 PSI.



Interesting.
So what does your oil pressure read @ the kawasaki recommended rpm test speed of 4k rpms?

At what point (PSI/rpm speed) did you get the engine oil pressure light to trigger/come on?

At what engine coolant temp did oil pressure drop to 7 PSI?

A 30+ PSI drop is pretty bad. What was the PSI at start up warm vs. cold? (you've said what the cold PSI is already)

Why test the oil pressure @ the lower end of idle speed and not the recommended 1350 +/- 50 rpms or higher?

What's your ambient temp during these test?

What oil are you using?

Is the bike/engine upright or on the sidestand?

Most times under hard braking oil moves away from the oil pick up

Interesting.
So what does your oil pressure read @ the kawasaki recommended rpm test speed of 4k rpms?

At what point (PSI/rpm speed) did you get the engine oil pressure light to trigger/come on?

At what engine coolant temp did oil pressure drop to 7 PSI?

A 30+ PSI drop is pretty bad. What was the PSI at start up warm vs. cold? (you've said what the cold PSI is already)

Why test the oil pressure @ the lower end of idle speed and not the recommended 1350 +/- 50 rpms or higher?

What's your ambient temp during these test?

What oil are you using?

Is the bike/engine upright or on the sidestand?

Most times under hard braking oil moves away from the oil pick up

I'll have to check the recommended 4k RPM next time. I'll also double check to make sure my system is getting the readings correctly by crosschecking with the sensor, but it should be correct. And I remember reading somewhere about our pressure relief being ~65PSI, which makes the 67 or so PSI maximum seem valid.

It never came on until the engine died and it drops to 0 instantly on my reading so really no way to see exactly where.

The coolant as about 160-170 degrees F.

I'll have to check on a warm start, but I would assume it is about the same as on a warm idle.

I'll have to check my idle again, I know it is very close to 1300K, but hard to tell on that small RPM gauge.

Ambient was around 70-75 degrees F.

Using Shell Rotella T6, newly changed.

I should have mentioned. On side stand is when the lowest pressure occurred (4-7PSI). If upright it was at the higher end, maybe 7-8PSI but never in the double digits AFAIK. Due to the weather I cant get the bike up to full operating temperature while riding until it gets warmer, or when I have time I'll just have to idle it while it is sitting in the garage to get it up to full operating temperature.