So i finally got around to finishing my prototype mounting bracket for this setup.

As it mounted up today it is 100% functional but i will make some very very minute adjustments. Like moving one of the bolt holes 0.02" and decreasing thickness where caliper attaches by about 0.05" and that should give me a little bit more buffer space if it is ever needed.

Doesn't look like much yet but, Bigballsofpaint has agreed to CNC up a bracket for me. Once i get the first one back and verify that everything is as it should be if he chooses to and can, he could keep making them and it would be very easy for someone to replicate this set up. Buy used 4 pot brembo, make sure it has the further apart bolt spacing i think it is 65mm? whatever, look at pics and get the one that has them further apart. Buy larger Chinese rotor

Here is pic of bracket and a link to the rotor on ebay. Only thing with rotor is contact the seller to try and verify what you get. There are a few sellers on Ebay. For the place i got mine the original ad said you get 2 rotors but i only got 1 and i got some mounting bracket with it that was useless. I contacted them about it and they said i got the right package and they would change their ad :rolleyes:

Rotor is Ara Shi 320mm, it looks very solid and well made but have not put it through paces yet

sorry for bad pic, my cell phone camera is cracked and takes terrible pictures and i broke our digital camera yesterday :mad:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/151239856301?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

good job getting it together and working. I don't know why but I just seem to like the look of the radial mount style better.

Dooooooooooooooood.

Fancy brakes + IRC front tire = :lol:

Dooooooooooooooood.

Fancy brakes + IRC front tire = :lol:

I didn't notice but this^

Dooooooooooooooood.

Fancy brakes + IRC front tire = :lol:

it's on the list :bounce:

Dooooooooooooooood.

Fancy brakes + IRC front tire = :lol:

lol :thumbup:

what has it cost you so far? Looks like a great project

right now total money spent looks like this.

$80 for brembo caliper on ebay
$50ish for new pads, can't remember exactly
$160 for the rotor
$20 for odd ball mounting bolts, banjo bolts & other things needed
$35 after shipping for a plate of 1/2" 8x8 T6 6061 to make my prototype bracket (if cnc guy chooses to make brackets not sure how much he would charge)

$345ish but really the rotor was the only pricey bit which is still pretty cheap and if it needs replaced anyway it would only be a bit more than buying new rotor and pads.

$345 - cost of new rotor and brake pads puts you at $135 on top of normal costs for rotor + pads. Not to bad IMO

You still havent shot me the new dimensions yet ;)

$345 - cost of new rotor and brake pads puts you at $135 on top of normal costs for rotor + pads. Not to bad IMO

Not bad at all

You still havent shot me the new dimensions yet ;)

you should have them in a few minutes, been double checking everything, then triple checking and I had to move one of the holes just a hair and it took me half a day to figure out the trig to accomplish it :rotflmao:

it took me half a day to figure out the trig to accomplish it :rotflmao:

Wait, really? :eek:

well I don't remember any formulas as I never use that stuff in my line of work or when the particular laws can be used and I had to many variables for what I needed to figure out. So I had to figure out like 6 different things before I could get to the angles and sides I wanted to figure out plus i was only messing with it on my down time... but it did take me a while lol

It was a mess

looks like you're getting there. good job.

I like radial brakes too.

Oh... Just use wikipedia when you have questions on math/analysis type stuff. All the stuff I've learned so far in school is, in some form, on wikipedia. It's great review.

i don't really have a preference as far as mounting type

If I bought a new sport bike I would want radial brakes. The 250 does fine with what it has....especially now that I have a full floating setup.

I guess its not as much the fact that its radial mounted as that fact that I like the beefier boxier look of the radial style caliper itself. http://i1157.photobucket.com/albums/p596/rojoracing53/Mobile%20Uploads/4D6A149B-6F28-42D7-93EC-5A32CECFF8A7_zps1t9kr36t.jpg

Some computer drawings of bracket Bigballsofpaint sent me :thumbup:

Just hope all my measurements were perfect :eek: Not to much wiggle room here :cool:

You can make a killing if its a better price then this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KAWASAKI-NINJA-250-250R-EX250-EX250R-BREMBO-FRONT-BRAKE-CALIPER-ADAPTER-PLATE-/271218973225

Let me see what the machine time is before i come up with any of that. I let Joe know ill be ordering the material tomorrow, hopefully i dont scrap much since im only ordering enough for 3.

Edit: It will most certainly be less than that since im not trying to make a business out of this, i doubt my job would appreciate that. Just trying to do a few cool things here and there to help people out if i can.

Let me see what the machine time is before i come up with any of that. I let Joe know ill be ordering the material tomorrow, hopefully i dont scrap much since im only ordering enough for 3.

Edit: It will most certainly be less than that since im not trying to make a business out of this, i doubt my job would appreciate that. Just trying to do a few cool things here and there to help people out if i can.

You guys ever think about one for the pregen 250?

You guys ever think about one for the pregen 250?

If you go back to my original post im not here to do the thinking. Give me some measurements and ill see what i can come up with to help some fellow members out.

Another member wanted clip ons for his pregen - but i didnt like the dimensions he gave me and what he wanted. I still drew up a model that he liked, but i need to go get real measurements off my friends pre gen so i havent touched it in a while.

Joe gave me some pretty solid numbers since he has made a prototype, if one were to do the same with a pregren, i wouldnt mind doing one for that as well.

If you go back to my original post im not here to do the thinking. Give me some measurements and ill see what i can come up with to help some fellow members out.

Another member wanted clip ons for his pregen - but i didnt like the dimensions he gave me and what he wanted. I still drew up a model that he liked, but i need to go get real measurements off my friends pre gen so i havent touched it in a while.

Joe gave me some pretty solid numbers since he has made a prototype, if one were to do the same with a pregren, i wouldnt mind doing one for that as well.

Well thanks for helping your fellow ninja owners out. Any one want to take a crack at the numbers I have no idea the place to start.

You can make a killing if its a better price then this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KAWASAKI-NINJA-250-250R-EX250-EX250R-BREMBO-FRONT-BRAKE-CALIPER-ADAPTER-PLATE-/271218973225

yeah, looking at prices like this is why I decided to make my own, then figured i might as well try and make it look decent as well and that is were Jay comes in. :thumbup:

That bracket is also for the 40mm spacing caliper and I think a stock sized rotor. The caliper I have is 65mm...ish and the rotor is larger I think place I bought it from says 320mm but I should measure to confirm.

The rotor I bought actually came with some adapter bracket but it was clearly not designed for rotor it came with or designed very poorly. The hole spacing was right for the brembo 65mm caliper but the angles/distance form center rotor was all screwy and would have provided little to no bite.

I didn't even know the rotor I bought was supposed to come with the bracket? I was surprised when I found it and excited that it might work.... clearly it did not.

I do like how that ebay bracket is designed. I guess that is an option I didn't consider and would be more plug and play than my design but not by much. Would look a little bit cleaner as well as nothing is bolting on top of fork caliper mount, it would be under just like the OEM.

Well thanks for helping your fellow ninja owners out. Any one want to take a crack at the numbers I have no idea the place to start.

I prefer to work with the pieces as sometimes it might highlight a problem you originally didn't think of. Draw back is you may not consider other options, like mentioned in previous post. I would never considered that option working with what I had as it was not possible to make a prototype like that.

get some parts, caliper & rotor if going larger, get the materials to make a bracket. I used a piece of T6 I had laying around and make some prototype quick with some rough measurements see how bad or good it is, then make some more thoughtout changes to the 1st gen prototype and you should be able to get a final one by the 3rd gen. If you have a little bit of time to devote and decent tools it could be done pretty quickly. Drill press, band saw, bench grinder are key. I had none of thee above :thumbup: Cordless drill, hacksaw, a round file, and a flat file and lots of elbow grease :thumbup:

I guess its not as much the fact that its radial mounted as that fact that I like the beefier boxier look of the radial style caliper itself.

Most here in Asia are running radial style mounts with the 320mm rotor
I think like your pic & this one shows the radial mount does seem to orient the caliper well
on the rotor for max footprint with good leverage.

RSV racing here is making the brackets
Like this

I am also running the 320mm rotor but have not upgraded caliper yet
just HH pads & SS lines

I wouldn't mind a radial caliper especially if I could find a plug and play bracket but the brembo radial calipers are still a bit pricey for a budget build. I got the caliper I have for like $70-$80

I have a tokiko radial caliper on the way from a 05-06 gixxer1000 and a radial master cylinder 16x18... Will be installing it next month once I actually get it...

Man that looks great, keep us posted on updates. Very cool.

Most here in Asia are running radial style mounts with the 320mm rotor
I think like your pic & this one shows the radial mount does seem to orient the caliper well
on the rotor for max footprint with good leverage.

RSV racing here is making the brackets
Like this

I am also running the 320mm rotor but have not upgraded caliper yet
just HH pads & SS lines

that is a nice looking setup. I just hate to imagine the cost.

^ this

I have found some brembo radial calipers as cheap as $200 a pair used but that was the lowest by far and more commonly $300/pair. It is hard to find them individual but you could always try and sell the left over one to make some cash back.

Figure you would get charged at least $100 for the mounting bracket, maybe more, add in some odds and ends and it would be around $450 just for the hardware not including rotor, maybe you manage to sell the left caliper for $100 and net $80 you are still at $370 ish Not terrible I guess but lots of assumptions.

^ this

I have found some brembo radial calipers as cheap as $200 a pair used but that was the lowest by far and more commonly $300/pair. It is hard to find them individual but you could always try and sell the left over one to make some cash back.

Figure you would get charged at least $100 for the mounting bracket, maybe more, add in some odds and ends and it would be around $450 just for the hardware not including rotor, maybe you manage to sell the left caliper for $100 and net $80 you are still at $370 ish Not terrible I guess but lots of assumptions.

For that price is it worth it for the extra braking power on a 250cc? I thought this was a cool mod and looked up the brakes. Couldn't find any new for less than $700. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong places.

Hey Joe, would you want me to mock up a design that uses the M8 holes threaded under the fork instead of using bolts like you are? All i have to do is measure how this the piece is on the fork. Since your design goes on the top, the other goes along the bottom, i should be able to just drop those 2 holes down to sit under the fork. Im pretty sure we have some M8 taps around.

Hey Joe, would you want me to mock up a design that uses the M8 holes threaded under the fork instead of using bolts like you are? All i have to do is measure how this the piece is on the fork. Since your design goes on the top, the other goes along the bottom, i should be able to just drop those 2 holes down to sit under the fork. Im pretty sure we have some M8 taps around.

If it's not to much trouble. Trying to think of how things will be affected.

If you treat the Caliper side with the thicker section as a stationary Zero point, you could probably just measure the thickness of the OEM caliper mount where holes are that is fixed to the right fork and then subtract that + the thickness of the bracket and drop it that far and that would get you to the right spot while maintaining the correct position of the caliper in the Z plane.

When you do it this way, you would also be able to lose the thicker section on the caliper holes as it would not be needed anymore and just make that whole level of the bracket 1/4" from the previous lower point where bracket actual met caliper. It might change some of the clearances with the pots on the caliper but I think we gave ourselves enough room there and should be fine.

Only other thing that would need to be addressed is that the new section that is going to mount to the fork mount on the inside will have to be 0.20" thick, 0.25" I think is just a hair to thick and might contact the buttons of the larger rotor. :thumbup:

Let me know if you are following me, I can give more info in a PM and even do a quick sketch since the hole positions will not change in relation to each other in

For that price is it worth it for the extra braking power on a 250cc? I thought this was a cool mod and looked up the brakes. Couldn't find any new for less than $700. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong places.

Ebay my friend, look for used. It is easiest if you know an old bike that had the brake caliper you are looking for.


For the caliper like I have, ebay search ducati 748 brake caliper. You can find used refurbished for like $300 I think for a pair, or just get used non refurbished for $140/pair

For the radials brembo's ebay search GSXR brembo caliper and it should bring up some used radial brembo cal's for more recent model GSXR's

You won't find anything cheap new.

If it's not to much trouble. Trying to think of how things will be affected.

If you treat the Caliper side with the thicker section as a stationary Zero point, you could probably just measure the thickness of the OEM caliper mount where holes are that is fixed to the right fork and then subtract that + the thickness of the bracket and drop it that far and that would get you to the right spot while maintaining the correct position of the caliper in the Z plane.

When you do it this way, you would also be able to lose the thicker section on the caliper holes as it would not be needed anymore and just make that whole level of the bracket 1/4" from the previous lower point where bracket actual met caliper. It might change some of the clearances with the pots on the caliper but I think we gave ourselves enough room there and should be fine.

Only other thing that would need to be addressed is that the new section that is going to mount to the fork mount on the inside will have to be 0.20" thick, 0.25" I think is just a hair to thick and might contact the buttons of the larger rotor. :thumbup:

Let me know if you are following me, I can give more info in a PM and even do a quick sketch since the hole positions will not change in relation to each other in

Since the bolt holes wont change that is what i was going to go off. Ill take a look at my bike this weekend and see if i can figure anything out. Material wont be in until next week, so ill still 2 weeks or so away. Ill still make your original design though as well, so no worries.

Since the bolt holes wont change that is what i was going to go off. Ill take a look at my bike this weekend and see if i can figure anything out. Material wont be in until next week, so ill still 2 weeks or so away. Ill still make your original design though as well, so no worries.

I got ya, perhaps I misunderstood what you are talking about. But do you think you could do one up like I described earlier 2 posts ago, it would be similar to this ebay design. The side that connects up with the fork mount would be on the inside near the rotor. The side that connects up with the caliper would be on top/ outside. This would solve the thread issues on the caliper side and keep everything very plug and play on the fork side.

If you follow what I wrote in that last post about making alterations it would be pretty easy I think.

I could get some measurements with in a few days for everything.

here is link to ebay bracket. It would work same way but just be different size and hole spacing different. :thumbup: I think this would be ideal, I just didn't think of it until I saw this adapter. I would never be able to make a prototype like this with the tools I have so I never considered it an option :thumbup:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/KAWASAKI-NINJA-250-250R-EX250-300-EX300-BREMBO-FRONT-BRAKE-CALIPER-ADAPTER-PLATE-/230991024389?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35c8235105&vxp=mtr

Ebay my friend, look for used. It is easiest if you know an old bike that had the brake caliper you are looking for.


For the caliper like I have, ebay search ducati 748 brake caliper. You can find used refurbished for like $300 I think for a pair, or just get used non refurbished for $140/pair

For the radials brembo's ebay search GSXR brembo caliper and it should bring up some used radial brembo cal's for more recent model GSXR's

You won't find anything cheap new.

When looking the off the shelf brackets from SSR that use a 40mm spacing would be for "gold line brembos" from ducati. In like 98 or 99 I think ducati started switching to the 65mm spacing and a 4 pad caliper instead of the 2 pad 40mm unit on the higher end models

^ dunno

think my caliper is off a 01 748. It has 65mm spacing between bolts and has 2 brake pads, just one on each side? but it did have dual rotors/calipers on that bike?

^ dunno

think my caliper is off a 01 748. It has 65mm spacing between bolts and has 2 brake pads, just one on each side? but it did have dual rotors/calipers on that bike?

sorry i did not mean it as a hard and fast rule as there are plenty of 65mm calipers that have only 2 pads, but rather that the 2 pad 40mm units should be the cheapest as most people "upgrade" to the 65mm 4 pad oem units. Those on ebay will be more $$$.

check this out too, brembo makes a factory racing kit

KAWASAKI NINJA 250
CNC Caliper Kit Code 120B76520
Casted Caliper Kit Code 120B76620
Disc Code 108973749

also waiting for someone to try the brembo 15RCS master

sorry i did not mean it as a hard and fast rule as there are plenty of 65mm calipers that have only 2 pads, but rather that the 2 pad 40mm units should be the cheapest as most people "upgrade" to the 65mm 4 pad oem units. Those on ebay will be more $$$.

check this out too, brembo makes a factory racing kit

KAWASAKI NINJA 250
CNC Caliper Kit Code 120B76520
Casted Caliper Kit Code 120B76620
Disc Code 108973749

Nassert beet of japan makes kits but they are far from cheap and from what the one guy on here was saying, they don't make a 320mm rotor its either a 310 or a 300, i can't remember. perhaps he will chime in here, the guy who posted a few posts ago from asia can't remember his name :confused:

Yes the Brembo route can be expensive

I have also seen Tokico & Nissin done

Nassert beet of japan makes kits but they are far from cheap and from what the one guy on here was saying, they don't make a 320mm rotor its either a 310 or a 300, i can't remember. perhaps he will chime in here, the guy who posted a few posts ago from asia can't remember his name :confused:

Yes Nassert Beet does a 310mm
http://www.beet.co.jp/english/kawasaki/ninja250/zoomimg/bigrotor_std.jpg

Would be nice to get a line on these

Made by KTC in Indonesia they are 4 piston radial caliper with the mounts
to fit 290 or 320 rotors on the Ninja
( You just use those spacers to space the caliper back on the larger rotors )

But try as I might I have not been able to order them
It is very hard to work with Indonesia in my experience

Asia has all the cool toys for the ninja.... :(

Yes Nassert Beet does a 310mm
http://www.beet.co.jp/english/kawasaki/ninja250/zoomimg/bigrotor_std.jpg

yeah but for me at least its not the disc size its the caliper feel/flex that sucks lol

Just sent sub an email, but here you go. Let me know what you think.

Looking good. Can't wait to see it finished up and installed.

Just sent sub an email, but here you go. Let me know what you think.

I see three. For sale?

2 are scrap, last one was good. I can order more material if a few people want one - now that the program and work shifts are done they will all come out good.

2 are scrap, last one was good. I can order more material if a few people want one - now that the program and work shifts are done they will all come out good.

Cool, still have to give it an official test run yet though, maybe hold off on making any till I give it a go just to play it safe :thumbup:

When you sending it? We can discus the finer details via PM ;)

EDIT: just saw your first post, checking email now

2 are scrap, last one was good. I can order more material if a few people want one - now that the program and work shifts are done they will all come out good.

once the install and testing is completed, maybe a group buy or something?

Just sent sub an email, but here you go. Let me know what you think.


Looks like nice work to me.
:thumbup:

Ill be sending it to Joe on sat, so we should know if its good or not within a week, he seems ready to install it and get on the road.

Sharky, if i make this it will only be for a group buy. Its not worth it for me to only make 1 or 2 since i dont get many windows of open machine time. If i do even get any, otherwise ill have to do it on a saterday.

If we have any ninjette powdercoaters, i wouldnt mind teaming up with them if their price is reasonable, thats IF people want them power coated...

^ powder coat would be kick ass and a nice finishing touch :thumbup:

Skip the powder coating as it will be a "built up" finish. You would have to mask off any bolt holes and especially any mating surfaces as any powder coating between mounting surfaces will eventually squish down and result in a lose bracket. Also..the cost would be for each part.

Look into anodizing. With anodizing there is usually a flat "basket charge" as in however many pieces you can fit into the basket to dip them in the solution is one flat charge. Most of the billet parts you see on the market today (levers, rear sets, swingarm spools, etc) are anodized.

We do a lot of hardcoat annodize on our products here. I figured powdercoat only because there arent any threaded holes, the through holes already have a decent tolerance in them so i didnt see what being an issue. Didnt think of mating surfaces breaking down though. I think leaving them bare and using a rattle can may be the best bet haha

I have a powder coat setup, nothing fancy its a harbor freight setup you are welcome to use in Ct.

very nice work

Got the bracket today, looks great. I am going to try and find some time tonight to at least bolt things up and check alignment all that jazz, if all that looks good i should get some time tomorrow to hook up my brake lines, bleed 'em and anything else taken care of and i should be good to give them a road test some time this week weather pending.

Gonna be interesting either way, i have changed a lot of things since i have ridden it last so i won't be able to attribute any of the changes in feel to any particular mechanical change. Oh well

Hope all goes well.

Dang looks nice, I could be interested in that!

Everything lines up seemingly perfect, but I was unable to bolt it up last night as my 2 bolts I used for my prototype were to long as my prototype was thicker in that area.

I need to get 2 bolts today, or at least a new hacksaw blade so I can shorten the ones I have before I can completely bolt it up. But bolting it to the caliper then partially threading the bolts to attach to the fork everything looks really good. After I bolt it up today and bleed everything blah blah, I can check the foot print on the rotor but it looks pretty stellar! Hopefully I can find a few minutes after work today to spend tinkering. I have time at night but no light electricity in my shed so it makes things interesting.

sounds promising

Latest up date. Everything bolted up nice and tight and there seems to be no problems what so ever. With the pads loose and rotating the wheel (front lifted) there was no sound what so ever so clearance all around. Hooked up the lines, started bleeding. Still in the process of bleeding them. The brake lever feels a little light and mushy still but again i need to bleed a bit more but i also haven't ridden it in months so i can't remember what it used to feel like. Did a quick foot print check and it looks perfect!!

I hope to finish it all up tomorrow and maybe ride it on Thursday or Friday but we get rain pretty much ever day so who knows. Ill snag a pic or two tonight but my camera phone blows and my digital is broken.

Glad to hear it man, good job with those dimensions haha

Glad to hear it man, good job with those dimensions haha

looked things over really close. Again it seems perfectly fine but i would definitely change just one thing to give a little bit more clearance.

Couldn't be more happy with bolt placement... it is 100% perfect!! Foot print is perfect!

But I would make the thicker parts of the bracket where the bolts for the caliper are just a hair thicker. 0.02 thicker to be exact. I can't remember the number i settled on in the end. I think it was either 0.58" thick or 0.59" but either way. If you make any more add 0.02" to that. This will center the rotor just a little bit better in the caliper. On the inside side of mine there is very little clearance between the rotor and the cast guide of the caliper. On the outside there is more than enough. So making that part of bracket just a little thicker would transfer some of the clearance from the outside to the inside.

I will admit this is the one dimension i kind of had to take a guess at. It was an educated guess though. An accurate measurement was tough to get.

Great job, thanks again for setting this up and doing it. I will post some ****** pictures tomorrow :thumbup:

Ya you had it at .58, .60 wouldnt be a problem

sweetness, waiting for pics

as promised, some crappy pictures. I hope to get a new digital camera before this weekend so I will update with better pics next week.

These are taken at night, with no light on my busted camera phone.

I will probably look for some fancy bolts to clean it up a little bit. Maybe some gold Ti race spec bolts or even just steel race spec, IDK? something, anything will look better than just regular old bolts

Still need a road test but should be non issue. Might have to go to larger master cylinder if I don't like feel of brakes. I need to go feel some brakes on some nicer bikes first though.

Now that this is pretty much GTG I can maybe put together a DIY with everything laid out. Pretty easy really.

Glad that clearance on the left worked, it was my only worry. Now just grab some spraypaint and clearcoat that sucker!

Glad that clearance on the left worked, it was my only worry. Now just grab some spraypaint and clearcoat that sucker!

yeah there was lots of room.

as promised, some crappy pictures. I hope to get a new digital camera before this weekend so I will update with better pics next week.

These are taken at night, with no light on my busted camera phone.

I will probably look for some fancy bolts to clean it up a little bit. Maybe some gold Ti race spec bolts or even just steel race spec, IDK? something, anything will look better than just regular old bolts

Still need a road test but should be non issue. Might have to go to larger master cylinder if I don't like feel of brakes. I need to go feel some brakes on some nicer bikes first though.

Now that this is pretty much GTG I can maybe put together a DIY with everything laid out. Pretty easy really.

nice job :thumbup:

love it!

http://www.probolt-usa.com/titanium.html?cat=986&color=5

Do it.

http://www.probolt-usa.com/titanium.html?cat=986&color=5

Do it.

I need to check the thread pitch again on the bolts for the caliper I can't remember what it is off the top of my head. Maybe I can find it on the web. For some reason I think it is 1.0 and that website does not offer any M10 in the length needed in the 1.0 pitch.

Ill get all this info for the DIY together

EDIT:

Some guy on the web says mounting bolts are m10 1.25, that makes sense, I think I was getting this confused with the banjo bolt which is m10 1.00

M10x1.25 will be easier to find.

SO should i order more material, GB anyone?

If you pumped several out what do you think they'd cost? Still need sub to get a parts list he used to.

I'd be down tho.

quick part list.

This rotor, not necessarily from this seller.
Advertised as Ara Shi 320 mm free float for ninja250. Direct bolt on. Not sure if 320mm though? need to measure it i guess?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151239856301?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Any Brembo 65mm 4 pot caliper, tons of late 90's early 2000's ducati's had these. I got mine off of 2001 748. Guy on ebay from UK sells referbished pair for like $250, maybe contact him, he might sell you just the right caliper? You can find cheaper though. Just recently saw a pair for like $80
here is link to referb ones
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ducati-748-996-998-ST4-Brembo-Goldline-front-brake-calipers-refurbished-exchange-/151159233927?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item2331cadd87

2 M10x1.25pitch bolts for the caliper, i will measure them tonight. can't remember what i ended up with. 35-40mm should work fine over 40mm might be to long

2 M8x?? pitch bolts to mount the bracket to the fork. Will be same pitch as stock bolts here but will need to be 0.25" longer than stock & is 36mm long so around 42-43mm might have to cut your own as there is little room for them to be to long.

Other hardware you would need for caliper if they did not come with it. M10x1.00 banjo bolt, bleeder screw, brake pads ect... I bought new caliper bolts from that UK guy to freshen up my caliper for like 10 bucks.

Then you will either need to take apart your take off OEM brake caliper, and remove the mounting plate piece and hack the lobes off it as you will still use this to screw the bracket to forks into. Other route is buy one cheap off ebay and hack that one if you want to keep your OEM brake intact.

Again, once i get a camera, maybe tomorrow, i can get some pics maybe Sunday, or Monday.

Got a lot going on the next few days so Sunday is the best bet, i still need a road test but i have no concerns about that. only concern is how brakes feel, is the MC enough? should be.

I might be in for the GB just to get the latest update on the bracket with the .02" thicker section for a little more clearance. Better safe than sorry. :thumbup:

I would be in, pending cost

If enough people actually want this ill send you the new one for free, dont sweat it. For pricing im thinking

5 people or less - 50 shipped
less than 10 people - 45 shipped
10+ - 40 shipped

How about that? if that sounds OK then ill make a seperate thread in the for sale section in the next few days as to not clutter this thread

^ not to give you any ideas but your prices look good check these out.

over $150/pair

http://www.yoyodyneti.com/category.aspx?categoryID=2954

This whole set up cost me
$150 for rotor
$80 for caliper (what i got mine for, Keep an eye open and you can find one at this price, they go fast though on ebay)
$10 for Ti banjo bolt
$10 bolt kit for caliper
Few bucks for random bolts (gonna upgrade them though)
$45 new pads
Cost of bracket from Bigballsofpaint

Like i mentioned before, if you are in the market for a new rotor and pads then it is really not much at all

For less than $50 I bet I am in.

If enough people actually want this ill send you the new one for free, dont sweat it. For pricing im thinking

5 people or less - 50 shipped
less than 10 people - 45 shipped
10+ - 40 shipped

How about that? if that sounds OK then ill make a seperate thread in the for sale section in the next few days as to not clutter this thread


That sounds like a reasonable price point to me, the brackets I made for my virago priced out right around there for the pair (way less complicated)

Ill still wait for Joe to test it out, i will prob make a thread on memorial day for it.

Sunday at the earliest. Monday at latest.

quick part list.

This rotor, not necessarily from this seller.
Advertised as Ara Shi 320 mm free float for ninja250. Direct bolt on. Not sure if 320mm though? need to measure it i guess?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151239856301?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Any Brembo 65mm 4 pot caliper, tons of late 90's early 2000's ducati's had these. I got mine off of 2001 748. Guy on ebay from UK sells referbished pair for like $250, maybe contact him, he might sell you just the right caliper? You can find cheaper though. Just recently saw a pair for like $80
here is link to referb ones
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ducati-748-996-998-ST4-Brembo-Goldline-front-brake-calipers-refurbished-exchange-/151159233927?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item2331cadd87

2 M10x1.25pitch bolts for the caliper, i will measure them tonight. can't remember what i ended up with. 35-40mm should work fine over 40mm might be to long

2 M8x?? pitch bolts to mount the bracket to the fork. Will be same pitch as stock bolts here but will need to be 0.25" longer than stock & is 36mm long so around 42-43mm might have to cut your own as there is little room for them to be to long.

Other hardware you would need for caliper if they did not come with it. M10x1.00 banjo bolt, bleeder screw, brake pads ect... I bought new caliper bolts from that UK guy to freshen up my caliper for like 10 bucks.

Then you will either need to take apart your take off OEM brake caliper, and remove the mounting plate piece and hack the lobes off it as you will still use this to screw the bracket to forks into. Other route is buy one cheap off ebay and hack that one if you want to keep your OEM brake intact.

Again, once i get a camera, maybe tomorrow, i can get some pics maybe Sunday, or Monday.

Got a lot going on the next few days so Sunday is the best bet, i still need a road test but i have no concerns about that. only concern is how brakes feel, is the MC enough? should be.

I might be in for the GB just to get the latest update on the bracket with the .02" thicker section for a little more clearance. Better safe than sorry. :thumbup:

Would you please post some photos of you set up? Thanks.

Check page 2

Ok....here


as promised, some crappy pictures. I hope to get a new digital camera before this weekend so I will update with better pics next week.

These are taken at night, with no light on my busted camera phone.

I will probably look for some fancy bolts to clean it up a little bit. Maybe some gold Ti race spec bolts or even just steel race spec, IDK? something, anything will look better than just regular old bolts

Still need a road test but should be non issue. Might have to go to larger master cylinder if I don't like feel of brakes. I need to go feel some brakes on some nicer bikes first though.

Now that this is pretty much GTG I can maybe put together a DIY with everything laid out. Pretty easy really.

Ill get some good pics up a little later today, tonight at the latest.

Got everything back together this morning and went for a short cruise. Again lots of new things so hard to say much about anything in particular. New tire, new brakes/rotor, had to take things easy to bed/scrub things in.

^this being said, mechanically everything works perfect, no issues what so ever with anything. The one problem that i seem to have is that my front brake is a little soft at this point. I will bleed them again here in a little bit after i give her a quick bath to see if i get any more air out but i am thinking i will have to go to a larger MC to get the best feel which only makes sense as the stock caliper is a small 2 pot.

The foot print on the rotor looks great, could be the tiniest bit better. IF the caliper sat literally 0.02" more to the outside. This adjustment could be made to the mounting bracket using math/trig whatever to move caliper holes a little bit... however i will not be doing it. I am thinking it would also be more work for Jay as well as lots of other numbers would change.

Haven't done anything to the mounting bracket yet. Might paint it black, might not, IDK?

Either way i love the way the new rotor and caliper look on my 12' black SE

Pics up soon! I got a new camera on Friday so no more ****** cell phone pics :thumbup:

Edit: if anyone knows of any swappable larger MC's from other bikes let me know. I'm on the hunt and doing some research

No need to post more picks if you don't want to. I overlooked the ones on page 2. Do you know what the bore diameter is in the stock MC? I know some people use a stock R6 Brembo.

No need to post more picks if you don't want to. I overlooked the ones on page 2. Do you know what the bore diameter is in the stock MC? I know some people use a stock R6 Brembo.

was gonna post some better pics regardless. From what i have read in various places here, stock MC is 13mm

here some some pics from the photo shoot today.

Again, i may or may not paint it. I have one of the scraps, i might paint it black to just get an idea of looks, if i like it, then paint the good one as well, if not keep good one as is with a clear coat.

Might put some gold colored bolts on there as well, think it would look nice with the bare metal.

here some some pics from the photo shoot today.........

:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

looks great, whats the piston size on the caliper? I am interested in the feel improvement more than anything and the stock caliper/master combo blows even with good pads and lines in terms of feel. I know alot of people thing the stock master is a little big for the stock caliper.

Good looking bike joe, I don't think I'd ever seen it before. The caliper looks great as well.

nice pics. Would you be able to get a pic from above the caliper facing down towards the brake pads/rotor, jus to see how much clearance there is with teh new pads?

Joe, just let me know what you mean by move .02 to the outside. If you mean the .58 thickness to .6, thats an offset change. Even if its a directional change, let me know. it would be simple.

Wow, that looks great :thumbup:

Joe, just let me know what you mean by move .02 to the outside. If you mean the .58 thickness to .6, thats an offset change. Even if its a directional change, let me know. it would be simple.

No not that. I mentioned early to increase the 0.58" to 0.60 and that will center the rotor a little better between the pads in the caliper

The 0.02 i mentioned a few posts ago is to change the placement bite of the pads on the rotor. Would be a little more tricky as the actual holes would have to get moved. I'm sure i could figure it out, but just don't feel like messing with it any more and it is really non issue. If you look at some of the closer pics you can see on the rotor where the pads are contacting. On the outside there is maybe 2mm of un touched rotor. But on the inside it is almost dead even with the inner diameter of the meat of the rotor. Again it is non issue and i don't see it helping anything, is more of a nit pick thing than anything :thumbup:

nice pics. Would you be able to get a pic from above the caliper facing down towards the brake pads/rotor, jus to see how much clearance there is with teh new pads?

what clearance are you looking for? Between what and what?

The only thing that is remotely close is as i mentioned earlier. The cast part of the caliper it's self has guides on the inside of the caliper. The inside side of the rotor is fairly close to the guide on that side of the caliper. I submitted a change to Jason to help with this and it should be easy peasy and all brackets from here on out should come with the change. My bracket worked fine today, no problems so this change would be just to give a little bit more clearance for expansion ect...

was gonna post some better pics regardless. From what i have read in various places here, stock MC is 13mm

I think 13mm is to small for that size caliper. It will give you lots of braking power and also a lot of lever travel. That may lend to the mushy feel. 16 mm should be more in line with what the Duc had on it.

I think 13mm is to small for that size caliper. It will give you lots of braking power and also a lot of lever travel. That may lend to the mushy feel. 16 mm should be more in line with what the Duc had on it.

but did the Duc has two sets of calipers it was moving pistons on? best way to know if to just compute the piston area :thumbup:

I heard somewhere that the piston size effect or radial MC vs Standard MC(stock) is different, like if you had 13mm for both the feel would be totally different because of the lever pivot.

I'm running a brembo 15mm radial and its perfect for single 4 pots setups. Brembo made two models of this MC, a 19mm for the Superbikes with dual 4-6pot systems and a 15mm for supermoto bikes with single 4-6 pot systems. I can also change the cam point by a few degs and it give the lever a much stiffer feel.

I originally tried a brembo 20mm GP style MC and the level was so stiff it didn't move at at past pad contact but at the same time no matter how hard you pulled it felt like the pads wouldn't grip because you had no leverage. There's a fun balance but I can confirm a 15mm radial setup will be perfect or at least very close to what you want.

15RCS if I am not mistaken ^^^

very nice piece

15RCS if I am not mistaken ^^^

very nice piece

Yes:thumbup:

just looked into those, pretty sweet. I will probably pull the trigger on one today or tomorrow when my credit card statement rolls over :p that way I don't have to actually acknowledge how much it cost for a month :thumbup:

Clearly for other people interested in the caliper mod there would be much cheaper ways to go but I figure at this point WTF not?

go big or go home right?

An OEM MC off a single caliper KTM or husky would probably do the trick and would most likely still be brembo brand OEM production. What ever you do just make sure you get an MC with its own topside bleed nipple, its makes you life much easier when getting that perfect bleed.

just remember that the brake line will need to be modified or else it will stick out oddly. probably will work, but you should be aware.

just remember that the brake line will need to be modified or else it will stick out oddly. probably will work, but you should be aware.

^This

Your going from a vertical mount to a horizontal so you'll need a completely different upper fitting style.

but did the Duc has two sets of calipers it was moving pistons on? best way to know if to just compute the piston area :thumbup:

Keep in mind that I am not an engineer nor have I seen one on TV. According to Pascals theory on pressure: fluid pressure in an enclosed area will be equal and undivided in all directions. Or something to that effect. I take from this that given a certain sized MC it will give the same braking force to each caliper regardless of how many calipers there are. In practice I have experienced adding calipers to a front brake system and found that:1) brake power was increased due to an additional brake rotor and caliper. 2) normal lever feel didnt change much. 3) lever travel increased a little. So what I'm getting at is whatever diameter piston the original Duc MC had should work here.

Keep in mind that I am not an engineer nor have I seen one on TV. According to Pascals theory on pressure: fluid pressure in an enclosed area will be equal and undivided in all directions. Or something to that effect. I take from this that given a certain sized MC it will give the same braking force to each caliper regardless of how many calipers there are. In practice I have experienced adding calipers to a front brake system and found that:1) brake power was increased due to an additional brake rotor and caliper. 2) normal lever feel didnt change much. 3) lever travel increased a little. So what I'm getting at is whatever diameter piston the original Duc MC had should work here.

lol for what its worth I am an engineer but have spent many years in management dulling my formula memory, but in the simplest form F=pressure/area and for the same fluid pressure, half the piston area doubles force exerted at the piston face. Pressure in a closed system in generated by the force generated as input to the lever on the piston of the m/c, with variables be lever pivot moment and piston size of m/c.

lol for what its worth I am an engineer but have spent many years in management dulling my formula memory, but in the simplest form F=pressure/area and for the same fluid pressure, half the piston area doubles force exerted at the piston face. Pressure in a closed system in generated by the force generated as input to the lever on the piston of the m/c, with variables be lever pivot moment and piston size of m/c.

Isnt that what I said?:confused:

Isnt that what I said?:confused:

The way it read to me in your post was that the internal system pressure being equally distributed across the surface area of the pistons would keep things relatively equal in either a single or dual caliper setup. That would be making the assumption that internal fluid pressure = resultant force, which is only true if applied surface area is the same. In the case of your caliper comment, using the same master (one designed for two calipers) in a system with a single caliper would have the internal fluid pressure acting across half of the surface area (half the pistons) for the same stroke. This would be a significant difference in applied force and in turn lever and brake feel.

3) lever travel increased a little. So what I'm getting at is whatever diameter piston the original Duc MC had should work here.

specifically don't do this as it could cause you to have too hard a lever, with too little travel, and too little modulation

specifically don't do this as it could cause you to have too hard a lever, with too little travel, and too little modulation

Ok. So I dont have the aptitude to figure out on paper mathematically what size MC to use. Lets say the original Duc had 2 calipers and a 16mm MC bore. If you remove one caliper what size MC bore should you use? That sounds like one of my sons math questions, that I cant help him with.:confused:

Ok. So I dont have the aptitude to figure out on paper mathematically what size MC to use. Lets say the original Duc had 2 calipers and a 16mm MC bore. If you remove one caliper what size MC bore should you use? That sounds like one of my sons math questions, that I cant help him with.:confused:

Honestly its going to depend a little on a couple of variables that we may or may not have and kinda going to have be a little shot in the dark. It looks like the 15mm master posted above was pretty decent for a single 4 piston caliper.

But that is alot of coin for a m/c too. Take a yamaha for instance, 16mm oem brembo m/c pushing two sets of calipers that have 27 and 30mm pistons. That ratio seems to work well for that setup with a pair of calipers. The Ducati bits look like they are 34 30mm piston combo. Which means that the Ducati caliper has aroud 25% more area in the pistons than the yamaha.

So putting the ducati calipers on the yamaha would give a longer travel softer lever. The kicker is your cutting the caliper count and therefore the area in half. So if you look at the pair of yamaha calipers, they have 58% more area than a single ducati caliper. So my guess is a 13-15mm master given lever ratio is the same between masters.

ok so one more shot with actual maths

using yamaha setup as a base setup. Two sets of calipers, 27mm and 30mm pistons in calipers, 16mm radial master. 5115.06 mm^2 piston area in caliper, 200.96 mm^2 piston area in master. A 25.45 to 1 ratio

single ducati caliper, 30mm and 34mm pistions, total caliper piston area 3227.92 mm^2, for the same 25.45 to 1 ratio you would need 126.82 mm^2 master piston area. This would be a 12.7mm master cylinder piston. Not a normal size but damn close to a 1/2 inch master which is readily available.

Go up if you want firmer lever with less travel but likely harder to modulate. Go down if you want more travel at the lever with less firm bite.

ok so one more shot with actual maths

using yamaha setup as a base setup. Two sets of calipers, 27mm and 30mm pistons in calipers, 16mm radial master. 5115.06 mm^2 piston area in caliper, 200.96 mm^2 piston area in master. A 25.45 to 1 ratio

single ducati caliper, 30mm and 34mm pistions, total caliper piston area 3227.92 mm^2, for the same 25.45 to 1 ratio you would need 126.82 mm^2 master piston area. This would be a 12.7mm master cylinder piston. Not a normal size but damn close to a 1/2 inch master which is readily available.

Go up if you want firmer lever with less travel but likely harder to modulate. Go down if you want more travel at the lever with less firm bite.


There also the lever throw ratio. The farther the plunger is from the pivot point of your lever will also give the feel of a larger MC because you'll have less leverage. So if you have a 16mm MC with 20mm distance from plunger to pivot point and another 16mm MC with a 16mm plunger to pivot point distance the second with have the feel of say a 13-14mm MC with 20mm pivot point spacing.

It's for these many factors that I tried three MC before landing on one that worked.

There also the lever throw ratio. The farther the plunger is from the pivot point of your lever will also give the feel of a larger MC because you'll have less leverage. So if you have a 16mm MC with 20mm distance from plunger to pivot point and another 16mm MC with a 16mm plunger to pivot point distance the second with have the feel of say a 13-14mm MC with 20mm pivot point spacing.

It's for these many factors that I tried three MC before landing on one that worked.

true, I mentioned that a few posts up but since most are not adjustable (RCS series not withstanding) and I was not sure where to look up various ratios, and for theory discussion I kept input at the master constant. but that is absolutely correct and why the 15 and 19RCS are so popular I think.

So I got a chance to ride to work today on the setup.

my brakes are still soft but I got the new MC coming in hopefully soon.

The pads are finally start to bed in a little better.

That being said I did start to notice a little bit of feedback from the brakes.

What I think it is... I think that the little bit of bite over hang on the inside is causing the feed back. This over hang is literally 0.01" give or take. Regardless if it proves to be there all the time it is annoying and unacceptable :thumbup:

I will look into making the adjustments to the bolt holes this weekend to remedy this. Should be pretty easy as I have a good bit of room on the outside of the rotor yet so all I need to do is bump the holes out 0.03" or so at a right angle from the direction of travel of the rotor.... <-- I think that sounds right, either way, just more the caliper out a little bit on the rotor. that is all

This change plus the thickness change mentioned earlier should really be about all the adjustments to the first bracket I have and it will be perfect.

I haven't had any real problems as of yet though :thumbup:

After I get things figured out ill talk with Jason again about doing another small batch at my cost so I can get the updates. There may be 2 left over or so from this batch if they all turn out.

stay tuned

The beauty of the radial mount design is adjusting pad placement is as easy as adding spacers or removing a little more material. When I first made my bracket a made sure to leave an extra 5mm of material where the caliper bolts up. Then after measuring it when mounted I just faced off the extra material so my pads sit right at the outer edge of the rotor to give it the largest possible effective diameter. If I ever wanted to go to a bigger rotor then I just add in some spacers.

Even if your MC is to small your brakes should still grab hard if everything was done right. The only thing is your lever will feel a bit squishy.

You bastardo! I made a GB already, looks like ill put in on hold. Get me the new measurements and ill get to work, ill try to order the material tonight or tomorrow to get ti going a little faster

Shouldn't hurt anything, the changes to the bracket will be very minimal, as long as they machine properly they will be better than current. All the major bugs are worked out, this is fine tuning and not settling for anything less than perfect :thumbup:

The group buy will run for a few weeks anyway right?

I am still not 100% sure the feedback I am getting is from what I describe but it is the only thing I can think of? will be able to figure out more later when I ride some more. It could still be the pads and rotors breaking in.

I find it hard to believe that this little over hang would cause the little bit of feed back but that's all I can come up with at the moment.

I dont think the overhang really matters until the pads become so worn that they end up rubbing against themselves, in which case you basically have no front brake, if that is even possible (im not sure of the pad thickness and rotor thickness). So it is something i would rather take care of anyway.

But your right, i can still run this GB just to get a count. Im not going to require deposits or anything, but i dont want to make 10 brackets if only 2 people will buy them.

I dont think the overhang really matters until the pads become so worn that they end up rubbing against themselves, in which case you basically have no front brake, if that is even possible (im not sure of the pad thickness and rotor thickness). So it is something i would rather take care of anyway.

But your right, i can still run this GB just to get a count. Im not going to require deposits or anything, but i dont want to make 10 brackets if only 2 people will buy them.

That issues is actually impossible in this instance as it is on the inside diameter or the contact part of the rotor not the outside.

again it is very very minimal and I still find it hard to believe it is the cause of the feedback I was getting.

This is a wave rotor, I have never used one before so I am thinking some of the feel is from this and I think it is amplified because of the squishy lever and I just took a spin on my lunch break and I definitely need to clean the rotor, brake pads and caliper again.

^these three things I think are all part of what I am experiencing which is like a stuttering at low speed light braking. <-- the frequency of the stutter I think has to do with either the waves on the rotor or the supports of the rotor where they meet the braking portion of the rotor (that little bit of overhang would not be touching anything and then meet this part of the rotor causing an effect) <-- this is a theory, over hang is 0.01-0.02 of an inch so IDK if it would have an affect.

Could also be effect of different areas of friction, caused by wave rotor again, or dirtiness of rotor, pads ect... or combination of both.

It is not noticeable at highspeeds with light or heavy braking, or harder braking at low speeds. So this makes me think the squishiness of the lever, fluid system might also play a role.

I think the "problem" is non issue and one or two easy fixes will clear everything up no problems.

But again, just took a cruise 30 miles no issues.

will ride home, remove caliper, inspect and clean everything with brake cleaner, put it all back together and I expect everything to break in and have no problems what so ever. New lever MC should be in hopefully in a week or so :thumb up:


edit: got the brake system today, that was super fast. I wasn't expecting it until next week at earliest. Hopefully i can get it together this weekend as long as i have all the bits ect...

Got everything hooked up this morning quick.

Went for a quick scoot everything feels really good. Still have a little brake chatter but i still think it is getting better and will go away once everything breaks in. I should have cleaned my new rotor a little better before i put it on. I think there was some grease, oil lube IDK? on some of the buttons it comes off onto the braking portion of the rotor. I cleaned the buttons just a little bit ago hopefully that helps. Time will tell, might take a week of me commuting before everything breaks in decent.

If you have any greasy/oily junk on the brake rotor; use high concentration rubbing alcohol or brake cleaner to clean the rotor surface, then take the pads out and just barely sand the surface off with sand paper. It will get rid of all material that has any oil on/in it. You will have to basically bed the pad again though, so no crazy braking for a bit, just firm gradual stuff to get the pad happy.

Just to update, I couldn't edit any of my older posts but.

Since I bought the rotor I had questions whether or not it was actually 320mm as described via the ebay ad which mind you had many mistakes in it.

It always just seemed a little small, so someone was asking questions about my set up and wanted some detailed info so I went out and measured it today while it was on the bike. It looks like it is actually a 310mm rotor and NOT 320.

This does not surprise me, again with all the other errors in the ads.
Either way, if anyone is interested in this set up and the bracket from Jay, just get the Ara shi ninja 250 rotor as seen on ebay and you should be fine. They should all be the correct size which is 310mm per my measurement and this number is listed on some of the ads, just not the one I bought my rotor off of ;)

Also, no issues with anything, I probably have 2k miles on the set up, rotor seems to be holding up phenomenally

I have a Radial Brake master from a Ninja 1000, has anyone tried using any other brake masters?

I already have a radial brake setup with the KTC Callioer and bracket. For the master I went with an R6 Brembo unit. Still on the stock rotor, but I definitely need to switch out to more grippy pads. The current ones lack bite and don’t inspire confidence at all.

Any idea what pads I can use to replace the ones in this calliper? I’m currently travelling, or I would have removed the callipers and taken pictures.

Some computer drawings of bracket Bigballsofpaint sent me :thumbup:

Just hope all my measurements were perfect :eek: Not to much wiggle room here :cool:

Thats bracket will look so good. Do you have stopping distance's yet from the new setup?

I already have a radial brake setup with the KTC Callioer and bracket. For the master I went with an R6 Brembo unit. Still on the stock rotor, but I definitely need to switch out to more grippy pads. The current ones lack bite and don’t inspire confidence at all.

Any idea what pads I can use to replace the ones in this calliper? I’m currently travelling, or I would have removed the callipers and taken pictures.

Hans!! Do you know what model of bike your caliper was intended for? You might want that info, then check with your favorite high performance brake pad manufacturer to see what they make that was intended for that model of bike.

I like Vesrah on my Ninja, they're plenty soft and tame for street use when they're cool, but really seem to come alive with bite when they have some heat in them at the track.

Hans!! Do you know what model of bike your caliper was intended for? You might want that info, then check with your favorite high performance brake pad manufacturer to see what they make that was intended for that model of bike.

I like Vesrah on my Ninja, they're plenty soft and tame for street use when they're cool, but really seem to come alive with bite when they have some heat in them at the track.

Hi Chris, thanks for replying. I eventually called the company I bought it from and they helped me out. It’s this (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F182446244980) pad. I’m going to order it soon. This is the only weak point in my braking right now and I’m planning on hitting the track again very soon. The master cylinder is doing an excellent job with feedback and pressure, but the pads just don’t grip well enough.

but the pads just don’t grip well enough.

Do yourself a little sanity check before buying new pads.

Pull the pads out. Lightly sand the face that contacts the rotor until fresh surface is visible on the whole face. Clean the rotor with brake cleaner. Lightly sand the rotor with a cross-hatch pattern until it's not shiny anymore. Then put the pads in and go through the process of bedding them in again.

May as well clean and grease the caliper slide pins while you're in there.

It may help, it may not. But it's free. :thumbup:

No slidy pins, these are fixed 4-pot Brembo calipers like you'd find on Porsches.

Hi Chris, thanks for replying. I eventually called the company I bought it from and they helped me out. It’s this (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F182446244980) pad. I’m going to order it soon. This is the only weak point in my braking right now and I’m planning on hitting the track again very soon. The master cylinder is doing an excellent job with feedback and pressure, but the pads just don’t grip well enough.

Are you saying "don't grip well enough" because you don't have eyeball-popping deceleration with using pinky finger to brake? That's OK as any performance track-oriented pad will seem stiff and not grippy on the first cold application,which is what you're doing on the street. It's the 100th full-braking effort in a row that makes the difference where sticky street pads will have melted and the track pad feels the same.

No slidy pins, these are fixed 4-pot Brembo calipers like you'd find on Porsches.



Are you saying "don't grip well enough" because you don't have eyeball-popping deceleration with using pinky finger to brake? That's OK as any performance track-oriented pad will seem stiff and not grippy on the first cold application,which is what you're doing on the street. It's the 100th full-braking effort in a row that makes the difference where sticky street pads will have melted and the track pad feels the same.

Not satisfied with the stopping distance basically. It feels like the pads have very little bite. I’m going to try Chris’s solution first and try scrubbing the pads and disc before doing anything else.

Not satisfied with the stopping distance basically. It feels like the pads have very little bite. I’m going to try Chris’s solution first and try scrubbing the pads and disc before doing anything else.

What diameter is the R6 MC compared to stock?

Those SBS are race pads. They tend to be harder to deal with heat. As a result, on first use on street , they'll have no grip. You'll need to squeeze harder. Try braking hard from 100kph 10x in row quickly. They may feel better after that.

What diameter is the R6 MC compared to stock?

Those SBS are race pads.

Hi, sorry for the confusion, the SBS pads are ones I WANT to get, the ones on right now are the ones I got with the calliper. :)

p.s. The R6 master cylinder(16mm?) is perfect. 1-2 finger braking would be possible with more grippy pads. I can physically feel the disk slipping between the pads, as the master cylinder squeezes them together. The feel at the master is firm and confidence inspiring.