To make a long story short....are the header flanges supposed to sit dead flat face to face on the ( what?) engine ? Y'know...the holes that the hot air come out of ?
The OEM pipes have a flat copper "gasket" that relies on mating perfectly with the surface of the engine.
The gaskets supplied by AP are "true" compression fittings....reverse cones...and never having worked on an engine....I dunno...just had to ask. Without torquing the gaskets down...there's a bit less than 1/8" between the mating face of the flange and the engine's machined surface. The pic is taken from below the bike and i have not looked at kawi torq specs for pipes but I imagine I'll need to tighten them a bit more. But even with a 7" wrench...it snugged up rock solid.
IS IT SUPPOSED TO LOOK LIKE THAT ?
Putting the pieces on was easy and I didn't spend more than 5 minutes adjusting them. While all the pipes are very close to the engine none of them touch. I must admit....it was so easy that I now question whether I've done it right. Just because I know so little about this...I would've like to see torque recommendations in the instrux and the photos "keyed" to the written instrux. The written instrux are very easy to follow...almost conversational.
But...is it supposed to look like this ?

To make a long story short....
.is it supposed to look like this ?

That is what mine looks like.

Check the bolts after a couple oh heat cycles.

hey....how far is your S pipe from the back of oil pan...mine's like 1/32".
Havent put computer in yet, tore out snork...put in KN...tomorrows another day

my S pipe looks like 1/4" from the oil pan but I do not think that matters. The computer is easier to install then the pipe and the pipe was easy.

How bad is it to put the exhaust on with out a tuner? I'm bout to go nuts with a exhaust in my closet :/

Your bike will probably run like crap.

Having no experience and being half blind and impatient....the pipe went on in prob less than a half hour now that I think about it. I didnt read Kerry's instrux carefully enough and took off the wrong side plastics first so, as usual, created work for myself. I also have limited tools so...things that would take Mr Goodwrench 5 minutes took me 15 minutes. Took advice and WD40'd the joints and it was as easy as working with PVC pipe. Once stock system and left side plastic is off....I'd bet less than 15 minutes for a dude with any experience.
So....BTW...now that all of my plastic is off....can anyone tell me , in what sequence it should be reinstalled ? Lower-mid-top....tunnel-mid-top- lower ???
No...I have no recollection of how i took it apart because, as usual...did it half assed

Kerry has what order to take the plastics off. Just do the opposite to put back.

To make a long story short....are the header flanges supposed to sit dead flat face to face on the ( what?) engine ? Y'know...the holes that the hot air come out of ?
The OEM pipes have a flat copper "gasket" that relies on mating perfectly with the surface of the engine.
The gaskets supplied by AP are "true" compression fittings....reverse cones...and never having worked on an engine....I dunno...just had to ask. Without torquing the gaskets down...there's a bit less than 1/8" between the mating face of the flange and the engine's machined surface. The pic is taken from below the bike and i have not looked at kawi torq specs for pipes but I imagine I'll need to tighten them a bit more. But even with a 7" wrench...it snugged up rock solid.


Hi Eddie - We normally tighten to 9 -11 ft lbs tq. If you don't have a torque wrench, simply apply some common sense, tighten evenly and snugly. Area P gaskets are much thicker and better sealing than the oem copper style gaskets. Ours have more "crush value". The flanges do not get tightened flush to the cylinder head. The gap you have looks just fine. Run it for awhile, then recheck after some heat-cycling and you are good to go. :thumbup:

Noticed the profile of gaskets immediately as 'real" compression fittings but still wanted to ask. Standard pipe makes a much diff sound than slip ons, not like a Mustang but unique like a Mustang...very pleased.

Things take time...right.

I'm up to step 9 or 10 or something and i've spent the whole day on installing the Micro Tuner trying to figure out how to disconnect kawis harnesses. Like i said...the only harnesses I've seen are on horses.
So....there's this complicated looking harness with wires attached to the top of what I understand as the TPS...a GREY vertical rectangle with a round bottom....OK ?
Does the top part simply....with a straight pull....come right out of the bottom part or do I have to flex some part of it .Tried a gentle straight pull and the pieces didnt seem to begin to separate. I've tried putting a small flat blade into the areas where it looks like that might work but havent had the balls to rotate, pry or push more than a mm of so. Any answers will be appreciated so I can stop working and begin a night of prayer that I can get this sucker back together tomorrow.

Figured it out by looking at how the AP connector works.
Taking it out now.

Well it takes us a little less than an hour when we're in a hurry to do the Exhaust & Programmer install. But we've done it once or twice before.... ;) Take your time. There's no time limit on doing it right the first time. :thumbup:

Is it possible to measure the outside diameter of the primary pipe at the point you have taken the photo, right after the mounting bolts? I need it for some mod I am doing...
sorry I can't answer your qeustions, still working on a 250 EFI model, next week I am receiving from Germany the 300 engine, TBs, fuel pump etc for my new project and I will be able to answer you after I thoroughly study them but I guess it'll be kinda late for you by then...