Since I've put my bike back together in Nov 2013 and been riding it, there was very slight front brake drag that I couldn't get rid of. I chalked it up to some minor rotor warp from crashing and didn't think much of it since the wheel still turns freely and the brakes work. I've put 10k miles on the bike since then so I figure I'm probably ok.

Now I just got a new Galfer front rotor. Figured it would fix whatever issues I have had since it's brand new and straight. Put it on and found that I get constant major drag. Wheel won't turn freely at all once I tightened up the axle nut. Took it for a short ride anyway. Brake is definitely doing some major dragging since the rotor got super hot. Also doesn't appear that the brake pads are getting full contact with the rotor; there's a good strip on the outer edge of the rotor that stayed untouched.

Any ideas what the problem might be? Maybe it's possible the new rotor isn't compatible after all even though it's the rotor Galfer has for the 300. Perhaps it might never have been a rotor issue at all and maybe something else got tweaked when I crashed. I also have another OEM rotor that's almost new so I'm going to bolt that on and see how it compares to my original rotor.

For reference: the frame, forks, triple tree, and front wheel were all straightened after the crash.

ETA: Tried other rotor. Also drags badly and wheel isn't spinning freely. I've also tried realigning the forks multiple times previously with the original rotor and then again with the Galfer. The axle goes through easily. Possibly a bent axle?

Curious. How do the calipers look? Could the mount itself be tweaked?

That's not out of the question although I wouldn't really trust my eyeballing it to be the best judge. Don't really have a good frame of reference when the fairing stay is most definitely not completely straight so that the front end looks slightly off. I suppose that's a big possibility though since the crash impact was on the right side of the bike.

How would I check it though? If anything is off at this point, it probably isn't super obvious.

so out of curiosity when the axle is inserted but the nut is not tightened down all the way does the wheel spin freely? what if you tighten and pull the brake caliper off? how does it spin then?

disassemble, clean and reinstall the caliper pistons and use new fluid

disassemble, clean and reinstall the caliper pistons and use new fluid

could be piston drag in the seal, another item to check is hydraulic lock. Alot of time fluid level with worn disc and worn pads may be too high with new components

could be piston drag in the seal, another item to check is hydraulic lock. Alot of time fluid level with worn disc and worn pads may be too high with new components

it is possible but the fact that her front pad is crooked indicates only one of the two pistons is stuck, which means high fluid isnt likely

Well I was planning to flush the brake fluid anyway... I sorta cleaned the caliper while troubleshooting but it was kinda half-assed so I guess I'll go do that again.

it is possible but the fact that her front pad is crooked indicates only one of the two pistons is stuck, which means high fluid isnt likely

missed the comment on the pad being crooked :thumbup:, I took it as outer ring of rotor wasn't contacting pad face on new rotor

are you sure it is the rotor and not the pistons? i am having issues with my ZX6R with the pistons not retracting.

are you sure it is the rotor and not the pistons? i am having issues with my ZX6R with the pistons not retracting.

Somewhere in my long winded first post, I think I concluded that it's not the rotor lol.

Somewhere in my long winded first post, I think I concluded that it's not the rotor lol.

maybe its like some kind of Schrodingers-brake kinda thing where until you redo your calipers, the brake rotors are actually both warped, and not warped at the same time?

Maybe the original rotor is warped the same amount as how much the caliper is off so it just happens to still work just fine but nothing else will lol.

I recleaned the caliper. Started to bleed the brakes but the tubing didn't want to stay on the nipple and kept slipping off and spraying brake fluid everywhere. I decided I was done bleeding after showering everything in brake fluid a few time. Put the original rotor back on to go to work. Will try again tomorrow when I can get new tubing.

Started to bleed but the tubing didn't want to stay on the nipple and kept slipping off and spraying everywhere. I decided I was done bleeding after showering everything a few times. Will try again tomorrow when I can get new tubing.


:heh:... :eyebrows:

:heh:... :eyebrows:

Didn't expect anything less of you :lol:

https://i.imgur.com/hJxHAVG.gif

If it were mine I think I would just go thru a process of elimination
one thing at a time.

With front on stand & caliper off spin wheel.... if good
continue & add caliper but with pistons retracted ( pressure in line released )

If good next bleed, pressurize & check etc...

Good Luck

I'll get back to this in a few weeks...

Maybe the original rotor is warped the same amount as how much the caliper is off so it just happens to still work just fine but nothing else will lol.

I recleaned the caliper. Started to bleed the brakes but the tubing didn't want to stay on the nipple and kept slipping off and spraying brake fluid everywhere. I decided I was done bleeding after showering everything in brake fluid a few time. Put the original rotor back on to go to work. Will try again tomorrow when I can get new tubing.

how did I miss this Gem?

I thought you can check the axle bend for yourself, by rolling it on a flat mirror?
if it rolls nicely than its good. dial indicator is accurate but if its bent on the mirror-test than it should confirms it.

I have bought a front stand just to check the disc warpness..:D

My bet is one of the fork tubes is bent.

I thought you can check the axle bend for yourself, by rolling it on a flat mirror?
if it rolls nicely than its good. dial indicator is accurate but if its bent on the mirror-test than it should confirms it.

I have bought a front stand just to check the disc warpness..:D

That requires an available mirror though. Also don't have a dial indicator.

My bet is one of the fork tubes is bent.

I had them straightened by a reputable guy.

That requires an available mirror though. Also don't have a dial indicator.


Likewise, but i do have a table with glass on top :p

I have the exact same issue on my bike and cleaning the calipers didn't help much... My current rotor has become quiet eroded tho... Like it's not smooth and has lines all over it...

The mounting bracket may have been bent ever so slightly in the crash that puts the pads on the rotor at a slight angle causing the drag on the rotor, try a different caliper if you are able to find one cheap, or if the mounting points on the rear brake are the same you could try that in place of the front caliper.

I had a rear brake dragging slightly on my previous bike (a CBR250). One of the pistons was not retracting fully. I figure it might be beyond my meager mechanical abilities, so I took it to the shop. They put in a rebuild kit and the cost was very reasonable - I think they only charged me for the kit itself, and 30 minutes of labour.