Hey guys so I picked up my ninja last night. I'll have about fifty miles on it today after work. I read some places to do your first oil change at like 20 miles. Seems crazy. But they say there will be metal shavings in my oil and I want to get those out ASAP. And if that is true I definitely want to get those out of my engine oil. I was just curious as to when everyone else here changed their oil for the first time and if it had any metal pieces/shavings laying in it or left behind in the oil pan? Any info is super appreciated like always!!

Hey guys so I picked up my ninja last night. I'll have about fifty miles on it today after work. I read some places to do your first oil change at like 20 miles. Seems crazy. But they say there will be metal shavings in my oil and I want to get those out ASAP. And if that is true I definitely want to get those out of my engine oil. I was just curious as to when everyone else here changed their oil for the first time and if it had any metal pieces/shavings laying in it or left behind in the oil pan? Any info is super appreciated like always!!

I hear the plug is a magnet that collects the shavings.

That would be awesome if it really is. And it would save me some money. Thanks!

I think I did one around 50. Didn't notice any metal shavings.

the shavings are from things like the rings breaking in, and small bits of the case casting defects. they get collected in the oil filter. follow the kawi recommended schedule

I followed the service manual, regardless of other ideas around

Ok. I'm actually reading through my owners manual right now. Thanks for the input guys!

I did my 250, cbr600 and 636 somewhere between 500-600 miles. Nothing weird in the oil. Do what you feel comfortable with

I spoke with an experienced engine builder the other day about break-in and related stuff like oil and oil changes.

He recommended a quick first oil change on a new or rebuilt engine, but he wasn't specific. I would say 300-500mi would be a decent number. It's not like the engine will blow if you don't, but he felt that changing it early was a good idea overall.

My Ninjette had a fair amount of metallic bits on the filter and in the oil at the first oil change. I recommend cleaning the oil screen as well during the first change. Mine had particles there also. Be sure to buy the large and small o-rings if buying the Kawasaki brand filter. Some after market filters come with the o-rings, which is nice.

My Ninjette had a fair amount of metallic bits on the filter and in the oil at the first oil change. I recommend cleaning the oil screen as well during the first change. Mine had particles there also. Be sure to buy the large and small o-rings if buying the Kawasaki brand filter. Some after market filters come with the o-rings, which is nice.

I think the 300 has the spin on.

^yep it does. Quick and easy. :)

I'm about to do my first change @ 900km of easy/moderate break-in(just can't move with traffic below 6k) so I'll report my findings. I've been told to expect some particles. Also moving to a K&N KN-303 filter.

4 oil and filter changes before 1000km's

3000km's per oil and filter change.

Odo reading 10500kms

Oil and Filter cheap, Motor not!!!!

I did the first oil change on the 300 at a little over 600 miles. The oil still looked pretty clean and had no metal particles in it. After that I've been changing it at around every 3k miles, and at the beginning of the season. Shell Rotella T6 and OEM oil filter every time.

Some of you guys change your oil way too much it sounds like. There's a reason that Kawi calls for the fist oil change at 600 miles and not 50, sheesh... The truth is that these engines will last for a lot longer, even with minimal care, then most of you will have the bike.

Also, this is the 300 section, just sayin. :rolleyes:

Found the oil filters in wiki and posting here so I can find it on my phone

This is a list of oil filters that will replace the Kawasaki OEM Oil Filter. Most of these filters may cost less than the Kawasaki filter. Always check the cross reference list available at the store if you have any questions about a filter. The filters listed will fit both the Pre & New Generation Ninjas. This may not be an exhaustive list, so feel free to update or add to it as necessary.

* '''CarQuest:''' CFI-89941
* '''Emgo:''' 10-37500 (includes O-rings) 10-20300 (no O-rings included)
* '''Fram:''' CH6012
* '''Hastings:''' LF571
* '''Hiflofiltro:''' HF401
* '''Honda:''' 15410-426-010 or 15410-300-024
* '''Kawasaki:''' 16099-003 (no O-rings included)
* '''K&N:''' KN-401*
* '''NAPA:''' PS4941
* '''Perf-Form:''' OF-0047
* '''Purolator:''' ML16812
* '''Triumph:''' 1210031
* '''Vesrah:''' SF-4004
* '''WIX:''' 24941
* '''Yamaha:''' 36Y-13441-00
* '''Champion Laboratories (Luber-Finer):''' P7011
* '''Mobil 1:''' M1MC-172


''Some of these filters may not come with the necessary o-rings, so check to ensure they do before purchase. Filters may be available at any reputable motorcycle parts outlet or auto parts store, such as Advance Auto, AutoZone, Pep Boys, Kragen, NAPA, or Wal-Mart.''

*Note, K&N recommends the KN-303 for the Ninja 300.

[[Category:Engine]]

Go KnN 303

Its what I use (we sell them at work, employee discount FTW)

Great filter!

I did my first oil change at 500, and again at 1200. DONT ride it easy, rings need high engine load to break in properly.

Follow your owners manual re break-in/first oil change and you'll be riding around at 30 mph for weeks. Just look at the rpm limit....

I bought my 2011 GSX-R brand-new and followed the Calsci break-in procedure. That first oil change (for me at 70 miles, because that's the distance from the dealer to home), the oil was pearly with metal flakes.

That made a believer out of me. Imagine all that stuff floating around for hundreds of miles....

Bike is great, now at about 10k miles.

Here's the page. Scroll down for the procedure, along with the logic behind it.

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/NewBike.html


Will you damage the engine by following the manual? Of course not. Those bits of metal might cause a little extra wear... they're not big chunks, after all... but it's unlikely your bike will die an early death if you wait until the factory-recommended first change mileage.

Does that mean the manual procedure is a sacred ritual and nothing else is acceptable? Of course not. There's more than one way to skin the cat.

This is like ongoing oil change advice. Changing religiously every X miles as if the thing will grenade if you one mile over is silly. Ever heard of that happening? I haven't....

Found the oil filters in wiki and posting here so I can find it on my phone

Al are those for the 300 or 250?

The KN 401, Napa 4941, and Fram 6012 are the internal ones I use on my bike. Thought you guys had a canister?

Al are those for the 300 or 250?

The KN 401, Napa 4941, and Fram 6012 are the internal ones I use on my bike. Thought you guys had a canister?
Twist on.
Looks like they fit both

As alex.s mentioned, this is why you have an oil filter, so don't worry about it and just follow the recommended schedule. Change the oil too early and you run the "risk" of not having removed all of that excess metal and such and you'll just end up with more of it in your pan/filter at the next change.

Re: third party filters; IIRC, the KN-303 does not have the same bypass pressure as the Kawi OEM filter. This is very much personal preference, but I'd rather eat the $5 difference every few thousand miles and simply use the OEM filter to ensure that I'm not bypassing too much or restricting flow when it's needed.

Go KnN 303

Its what I use (we sell them at work, employee discount FTW)

Great filter!

I did my first oil change at 500, and again at 1200. DONT ride it easy, rings need high engine load to break in properly.
I agree - load is the key to seating the rings properly. RPMs don't do much.

Do regular strong pulls (high load/low RPM) without bogging, but shift around the recommended RPMs for a while. Load produces high cylinder pressure which helps seat the rings.

Some new engines will come with a "break-in" oil. One of my cars did. It had a odd smell and didn't feel like regular oil. I ran it about 1500 mi. It never got dark, which lead me to think it was non-detergent.

There will be metal in the oil from parts wearing-in, but the oil filter and a magnetic drain plug should catch it. I wouldn't wait to change the oil at the "regular" recommended interval the first time, but i don't think you want to do it immediately either. I would give the engine at least 500 mi on the original oil, then not go with a full synthetic until the second oil change. Some high-end synthetics have Moly, which will reduce wear. You want some wear initially.

o
There will be metal in the oil from parts wearing-in, but the oil filter and a magnetic drain plug should catch it. I wouldn't wait to change the oil at the "regular" recommended interval the first time, but i don't think you want to do it immediately either.

What's the rationale for not changing soon?

Not disagreeing, just wondering what your reasoning is, beyond the presence of special "break-in oil" which is something bikes don't come with AFAIK.

As noted above, I followed the Calsci procedure for my GSX-R. After 70 miles, the oil was pearly with metal particles... that means they weren't caught by the filter or the magnetic plug. That made me think "gee, guess it really is a good idea to change early, given that I can actually see metal in there...." Totally unscientific I admit, but compelliing.

The thing about oil threads is that sooner or later, you'll hear every possible opinion cited as THE TRUTH.

Which suggests to me that we tend to overthink this stuff.....

http://imgs.xkcd.com/comics/overthinking.png

What's the rationale for not changing soon?

What is soon? What is not so soon?

It's all a judgement call. If you change it too soon, and there's still more metal being removed, should you change it again and again? I don't know.

I know what I've done, and what I've learned from top engine builders that I respect, but I'm not trying to say there is only one right answer - just what I think is reasonable.

I agree - load is the key to seating the rings properly. RPMs don't do much.

Do regular strong pulls (high load/low RPM) without bogging, but shift around the recommended RPMs for a while. Load produces high cylinder pressure which helps seat the rings.

Some new engines will come with a "break-in" oil. One of my cars did. It had a odd smell and didn't feel like regular oil. I ran it about 1500 mi. It never got dark, which lead me to think it was non-detergent.

There will be metal in the oil from parts wearing-in, but the oil filter and a magnetic drain plug should catch it. I wouldn't wait to change the oil at the "regular" recommended interval the first time, but i don't think you want to do it immediately either. I would give the engine at least 500 mi on the original oil, then not go with a full synthetic until the second oil change. Some high-end synthetics have Moly, which will reduce wear. You want some wear initially.

Low RPM not good, REALLY high RPM not good. Best would be consistently between 5k and 10k with OCCASIONAL jaunts to 12k. You want the engine running in the range it will usually be running in, where its most 'comfortable'.

I think you are right, factory fill oil is probably a straight weight, full dino non-synthetic, non detergent oil. Mine came out looking like a metallic version of the darker green color Ninjette uses for its forum pages at 500 miles.

Good point here, top quality synthetics have 'metal' additives that 'plate out' onto various surfaces under pressure. These help protect from metal to metal contact wear and do a great job of it. Not what you want for brand new piston rings...

Side note, I think the oem filter gets clogged very quickly in the initial few miles and triggers the internal by-pass... Might be a good idea to change the filter a couple times, like once at 80-120 and again at 300-400, before actually changing the oil?