So you want to take the next step on your bike and install a pod intake. It’s not exactly the easiest task to do. However with a little help and remaining calm at times it can be done. The first couple things that you are going to need are the pods.

http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=r-0990

A Breather , You can get a good name brand one, but I used a cheapo from Oreilys.

http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=62-1600rd

Need a connection for the breather to connect to the stock crank case hose

http://www.dormanproducts.com/itemdetail.aspx?ProductID=27794&SEName=47307

It’s the 3/8 Connector that you will need for the tube to the filter.

I used a couple different write ups for removal of the cowlings and installations since this was my first time actually working on a bike.

http://www.kawasa***************/forum/13-ninja-300-service-maintenance/429-fairing-removal-guide.html

These videos are really good as well

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9n71eBGBCko

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sGOtsf1TI70

So first step is obviously do decowl your bike

http://i.imgur.com/ynBUwOk.jpg?2

http://i.imgur.com/7nisVa5.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/Oan0jHM.jpg?1

At the same time I did my Smog Block Off plate so I probably removed more than required for just the intake Install

Next is to remove the sensor and tubes off the intake

http://i.imgur.com/XNgt7ZJ.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/rK2sNxx.jpg?1

This is your Crankcase Breather that you will be installing the small breather onto

http://i.imgur.com/XozWzkY.jpg?1

Next will be pulling out your battery and disconnecting most of the electronics in the rear of the bike. I don’t have many pictures at all of me doing this since I wasn’t thinking about it. I was mainly pissed off from being cut by a damn ziptie so I was just in a hurry.

http://i.imgur.com/D4lfB9b.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/rvsfJDP.jpg?1

Your will want to disconnect and remove your fender, this video shows you how to do removal and installation of their aftermarket fender. I didn’t do this; they just have one of the best videos on removing it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W-ShIshslDw

You don’t need to remove the taillight since you’re going to be taking the entire fender off.

Remove the lock system off your tail fender, just 2 screws
Should be 4 more connecters in the middle of the fender that need to be unhooked and 2 router down by the muffler and the others can just hang out till you need to reinstall.

Now with all those disconnected you should be able to unbolt the fender and the airbox assembly.

I believe there are 2 bolts on either side for the fender (correct me if im wrong)
And there should only be 2 bolts on the airbox and then disconnecting the connections at the throttle bodies.

Now removing the rear fender is a pain, but if you work it slowly over the rear tire you can get it out pretty easily. Double check while you pull it there theres nothing else connected as you don’t want to damage anything.

http://i.imgur.com/bnImx4L.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/5vwLiVA.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/VUa5zBe.jpg?2

http://i.imgur.com/ngVwpJw.jpg?1

Then once you are assured after double checking there is nothing connected to your airbox you can start maneuvering it out. What I found to be easier was to remove the 9 bolts from the airbox right side as it splits off from the main airbox. There is however a metal plate inside that will halt that and you might have to bend it a little to get it to release.

http://i.imgur.com/gM4nMmR.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/GivhCJN.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/UQxsTJw.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/Gtp250h.jpg?1

Then after some maneuvering you will eventually have this

http://i.imgur.com/4opvxTH.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/SssZ8xs.jpg?1

Here you can remove your secondary butterflies if you can get the screws unstuck; mine were on enough that it striped the screw out so I just left them. There are little gains from removing them but not enough to make a huge deal.

Then you can start reassembling the parts that you have.

http://i.imgur.com/4YdBVap.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/1CFTnXt.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/FrwYS9e.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/xDxjVRg.jpg?1

Now you have 2 options
A. Ziptie the Air temperature sensor to your frame rail
B. Drill into your new air pod and screw your sensor into the middle of the air pod

I choose to just ziptie it to the frame rail right next to the filter

Put your connecter into the stock hose and reclamp, then attach your crank case filter to the connector and clamp it down. Not to tight it is a plastic connector. It wiggles there I couldn’t figure out a good way to tie it up or anything. So far I haven’t noticed any negatives of just leaving it hanging which is what the 250 guys do from what I could find

Now you can reassemble everything….the fun part hahahahah

But in the end it will eventually look like this

Left side

http://i.imgur.com/DG1oRjd.jpg?1

Right side

http://i.imgur.com/dVCQJpj.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/W1YTHXy.jpg?1

And final

http://i.imgur.com/lVetWtf.jpg?1

I have yet to ride it since im currently watching my 2 daughters while my wife is at msf course, but from just starting it up it sound A LOT louder. Not exhaust loud just bad ass engine loud.

I know I need some better pictures of disassembly if anybody has them and is willing to share I would be grateful. I tried scouring goggle as much as I could to find any other pictures but none showed up

:thumbup:

Nice! I'll be needing this in the spring when I install my pods.

What kind of fuel management are you setting up?

Im running a EJK Electronic Jet Kit, Just a straight fuel tuner but nobody tunes on them so you adjust everything yourself. Probably going to sell it and get an Area P or a PCV with dyno tune

I do not have any intention on disappointing you but I happen to know for a fact :
1. removing secondary butterflies makes a big difference both in throttle response and in turn acceleration, which when fine tuned with a piggyback will change low and mid-range torque curve by an amount resulting in 1-2rwhp on a FI 250 which in turn means that it is more on a 300. Since people are paying serious money to get 1 or 2 Hp out of the 250/300 engines I believe that hp for free is important and not negligeable...

2. pods do not increase top-end power on FI engines, in fact they reduce it, especially as revs approach the limiter... you will have a feeling of quicker revving and probably better throttle response up to 9-10k but after that your rwhp will be worse than if you had left the airbox on...the PC V will help reduce that loss, however you still have a loss of power while you could have it...
the reason for that is air induction phenomena well known among tuners but is quite "heavy" to analyse here...

Of course it is a matter of taste and choice after all what one does to their bike and I must congratulate you on a very nice and thorough DIY but I believe it is important to be careful when stating choices for facts so that other people not so accustomed into tuning do not get mislead...
please take no offence by my intrusion, I am not judging you at the least, I am only trying to point out that both of what I mentioned has been proven before and after on dyno and bike to bike comparison on street on several models including the 300...

If in doubt of my claims, please try dynoing your bike with an airtight stock airbox and then with the pods, even after tuning by piggyback unit to compare for yourself...then dyno it with and without secondary butterflies...
keep up the good work !!:smile-beerglass:

Of course it is a matter of taste and choice after all what one does to their bike and I must congratulate you on a very nice and thorough DIY but I believe it is important to be careful when stating choices for facts so that other people not so accustomed into tuning do not get mislead...
please take no offence by my intrusion, I am not judging you at the least, I am only trying to point out that both of what I mentioned has been proven before and after on dyno and bike to bike comparison on street on several models including the 300...

I haven't seen a single dyno run on any 300 on the planet both with and without the butterflys. I find it highly unlikely it would be the right way to go on a machine that isn't seeing less than 10k in any performance riding anyway.

I havent seen any info on any of the butterfly removal, all i know is the Area P dyno runs have a better dyno with Pod Filters than the Stock Air Box with a K&N filter.

http://areapnolimits.com/products/Slip-On-Exhaust-Kawasaki-Ninja-300-2013.php

I would love to find anything about the butterfly removal, all im saying is it wasnt worth it to me to drill out the screw heads while they were attached to intake. Any way you can provide any links for me to grow my knowledge? Always love learning especially if im wrong on a subject, and im very new to bikes.

The removing of the secondary butterflies I would recommend for racing purpose only and with saying this, only in combination with a modification of the ECU.
The only one and really professional company in tuning the Ninja 250 and 300 (Scuderia Platini in Italy) are doing this for their race bikes, but at least they don't talk about the power gain from this part of their modification.
If the pod filter would give a power gain, then this company would also use it - but they don't and from German WSBK bikes I remember they also didn't since they'd measure a small loss of power.

For the average rider it's better to keep the secondary butterflies in since street riding is much different to racing.

And a last word about the planet-thing, to expand the own horizon one should also be so free and take a look outside the own borders.

I haven't seen a single dyno run on any 300 on the planet both with and without the butterflys. I find it highly unlikely it would be the right way to go on a machine that isn't seeing less than 10k in any performance riding anyway.

well the whole planet is not only the people who post on the internet, right ?
even those who do, don't necessarily bother sharing upgrades that might give eveyone better performance, otherwise how would tuners and companies make a living ?
I have experimented a lot on the 300 on the dyno with friends' bikes and seen what makes a difference compared to stock and how much of it...
anyway, maybe it is not a mod for everyone or maybe I'm not qualified to support that without providing proof...

I havent seen any info on any of the butterfly removal, all i know is the Area P dyno runs have a better dyno with Pod Filters than the Stock Air Box with a K&N filter.

http://areapnolimits.com/products/Slip-On-Exhaust-Kawasaki-Ninja-300-2013.php

I would love to find anything about the butterfly removal, all im saying is it wasnt worth it to me to drill out the screw heads while they were attached to intake. Any way you can provide any links for me to grow my knowledge? Always love learning especially if im wrong on a subject, and im very new to bikes.


well here is a similar thread (which begins with sth else but eventually gets down to 2ndary removal and its benefits) for the 650, which has TBs and ECU afr tuning very similar to the 300's (i.e. rich oriented) so check it out and decide whether it is suitable for you or not... of course if you look around there are many more threads on the subject...
http://www.riderforums.com/ninja-650r-performance-upgrades/72092-iap-vacuum-mod-2012-already-done.html

The removing of the secondary butterflies I would recommend for racing purpose only and with saying this, only in combination with a modification of the ECU.
The only one and really professional company in tuning the Ninja 250 and 300 (Scuderia Platini in Italy) are doing this for their race bikes, but at least they don't talk about the power gain from this part of their modification.
If the pod filter would give a power gain, then this company would also use it - but they don't and from German WSBK bikes I remember they also didn't since they'd measure a small loss of power.

For the average rider it's better to keep the secondary butterflies in since street riding is much different to racing.

And a last word about the planet-thing, to expand the own horizon one should also be so free and take a look outside the own borders.


Roland you are being always a perfectionist and accurate on both engineering and spiritualism !!
You are once more absolutely right that it is optimum perfoming to combine any engine mod with ECU reflashing or at least a piggybck but on the 250/300/650 case they all come with a quite rich map from the factory (at least on European versions as measured on dyno) so removing butterflies is mostly improving that a/f ratio... the rider senses only a more abrupt throttle response...not even popping on decel occurs with that...
anyway not many are familiar with the Scuderia Platini... they might be the best tuners on Kawasakis worldwide but their headquarters are in my beautiful neighbor-country Italy, a part of the planet which has not such a large consuming market...

I do not have any intention on disappointing you but I happen to know for a fact :

2. pods do not increase top-end power on FI engines, in fact they reduce it, especially as revs approach the limiter... you will have a feeling of quicker revving and probably better throttle response up to 9-10k but after that your rwhp will be worse than if you had left the airbox on...the PC V will help reduce that loss, however you still have a loss of power while you could have it... the reason for that is air induction phenomena well known among tuners but is quite "heavy" to analyse here...

??? Completely incorrect.... Removing the airbox on a non-ram air bike (like the 300) and installing a Pod Filter can and does provide a very significant increase in power; provided it is then properly mapped for the A/F differences that result from this. The OEM airbox intake volume to atmosphere is relatively small, as well as the overall size/volume of the airbox as a whole. If an OEM airbox was heavily modified, opened up, flame arrestor removed, etc., similar results to a Pod Filter can be attained as well. The primary reason we do not remove air boxes from larger displacement bikes, is that their intake volume is much greater, as well as their air box capacity and the fact that most will have ram air assistance. They work very well as such. Most are also assisted through a "ram-air" design, which changes the dynamic completely. So it is important to not confuse the different design features of a given air intake system.


If in doubt of my claims, please try dynoing your bike with an airtight stock airbox and then with the pods, even after tuning by piggyback unit to compare for yourself...

??? Really perplexing why you make statements like this? - You are not even remotely in the ball park of being correct.... We have over 400 dyno runs now on various 300 Ninjas, so I'm very comfortable stating what works and what doesn't... By all means, Dyno the bike completely stock. Then watch as the power increases, with A/F Mapping, through-out any changes to the available air intake being increased. Example - Remove the Snorkel and power and throttle response increases slightly. Remove the filter side cover that holds the Panel Filter in place and power is increased. Remove the Filter Panel and power is increased. Remove the Flame Arrestor screen and power is increased. And lastly, remove the entire air box, replace with Filter Pod and power, especially peak power, is increased.

Feel so honored having Area P actually comment on my post. I'm definitely ditching my ejk and gonna get a tuner from yall I'm tired of trying to understand this thing. Thanks for the super quick and detailed email responses and actually reading the forums.

The bossman an AreaP are the best!!!:thumbup:

Im running a EJK Electronic Jet Kit, Just a straight fuel tuner but nobody tunes on them so you adjust everything yourself. Probably going to sell it and get an Area P or a PCV with dyno tune

Pm me when you sell it, I may be interested :)

Pm me when you sell it, I may be interested :)

This is wise :thumbup:

??? Completely incorrect.... Removing the airbox on a non-ram air bike (like the 300) and installing a Pod Filter can and does provide a very significant increase in power; provided it is then properly mapped for the A/F differences that result from this. The OEM airbox intake volume to atmosphere is relatively small, as well as the overall size/volume of the airbox as a whole. If an OEM airbox was heavily modified, opened up, flame arrestor removed, etc., similar results to a Pod Filter can be attained as well. The primary reason we do not remove air boxes from larger displacement bikes, is that their intake volume is much greater, as well as their air box capacity and the fact that most will have ram air assistance. They work very well as such. Most are also assisted through a "ram-air" design, which changes the dynamic completely. So it is important to not confuse the different design features of a given air intake system.


??? Really perplexing why you make statements like this? - You are not even remotely in the ball park of being correct.... We have over 400 dyno runs now on various 300 Ninjas, so I'm very comfortable stating what works and what doesn't... By all means, Dyno the bike completely stock. Then watch as the power increases, with A/F Mapping, through-out any changes to the available air intake being increased. Example - Remove the Snorkel and power and throttle response increases slightly. Remove the filter side cover that holds the Panel Filter in place and power is increased. Remove the Filter Panel and power is increased. Remove the Flame Arrestor screen and power is increased. And lastly, remove the entire air box, replace with Filter Pod and power, especially peak power, is increased.

You are -of course- absolutely right and I have been making a fool of myself, I must admit...:mad: and apologize to all :o first of all both the mapping for fuel on the greek version is the "full power" ecu, which possibly has significant difference compared to the versions in the States, which are more "restricted"...and when taking about "airbox", I had in mind the kind of airbox most of greek owners use, which is heavily modified...air ducts from bigger bikes are fitted by opening up the duct holes on the box, filter and flame arrestor are totally removed (no filter at all) with their slots and inner smoothened out and resurfaced for greater volume, smoother flow and less resistance, some even change the points where the air comes in and fit tubes on the sides for fresh air induction etc...that kind of extreme mod has shown better results on dyno with the bad quality fuel used here than simple pod change but then again ecu original settings coupled with level of ability of the tuner when programming (and hardware selection) could affect the outcome...

You just need to turbo the thing and be done with it lol.....

this is gunna be a street fighter soon right? Would look nice to have a little turbo hanging off her lol

Would this work on a pregen?

You are -of course- absolutely right and I have been making a fool of myself, I must admit...:mad: and apologize to all :o first of all both the mapping for fuel on the greek version is the "full power" ecu, which possibly has significant difference compared to the versions in the States, which are more "restricted"...and when taking about "airbox", I had in mind the kind of airbox most of greek owners use, which is heavily modified...air ducts from bigger bikes are fitted by opening up the duct holes on the box, filter and flame arrestor are totally removed (no filter at all) with their slots and inner smoothened out and resurfaced for greater volume, smoother flow and less resistance, some even change the points where the air comes in and fit tubes on the sides for fresh air induction etc...that kind of extreme mod has shown better results on dyno with the bad quality fuel used here than simple pod change but then again ecu original settings coupled with level of ability of the tuner when programming (and hardware selection) could affect the outcome...


I dont think the greek version is the full power version, if you look at my other post that ECU # actually has less timing and fuel compared to the US as well as a lower RPM limiter.

I think your trying to compare the WVTA from the 600's to the 300 it doesnt work out like that, they have to limit the 600's and 1000's in the US because of noise restrictions otherwise they would have full power/sound. The 300 doesnt really have the loudness of the 600's or 1000's to be worried about in the US

I dont think the greek version is the full power version

Sorry to contradict you, but ALL European Versions are WVTA [FULL-N] plus India is it and all others are different country versions and this is also the same with the Ninja 300.

Yeah its all sorts of confusing.... look at this its a 08-10 ZX-10r:

138.3 kW (188.1 PS) @12 500 r/min (rpm),
WVTA (78.2 H) 78.2 kW (106 PS) @11 000 r/min (rpm)
(MY), (SEA) 119.2 kW (162.1 PS) @10 000 r/min (rpm)

Why is it showing WVTA as a lower PS?

Nevermind just saw what it meant:
EUR Europe WVTA
(78.2 H)
WVTA Model with Honeycomb Catalytic
Converter (Restricted Power)

The 78.2 H is restricted.

Thanks for the write up. This may be my next winter project.

just two cents...I'd like to see the actual power curves before and after installing a pod kit. While peak power may increase, by even an amount that is perceptible, my experience is that other parts of the power curve suffer, making the bike less rideable on the street. Air boxes are there for a good reason: they provide constant pressure to both intakes.

I realize saying that doing X is a way to increase peak power by Y to sell performance parts, but motorcycles are not binary power devices, they need smooth power rolling on and off throttle, that why dynos give us HP and torque curves, not just peak numbers.

You should search for the threads posted by Area P while they were doing R&D for their systems for the 300. Or just go to their website. Areapnolimits.

All there.

This may be of assistance concerning improvements when removing the air box combined with proper R&D, Mapping/Dyno tuning
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showpost.php?p=716624&postcount=371

Testing on the Airbox delete/POD filter additional mod has been completed at the Fuel Moto facility. As expected (;)) we have attained the original goal of reaching 40+ HP with the Area P system and FI Micro Programmer. The new mapping that Fuel Moto created is outstanding with this mod. They are absolutely, bare-none, the best in the industry.:thumbup: Available exclusively for Area P/Fuel Moto FI Micro Programmer customers. Special thank you to "Tigerpaw" for loaning us his bike for this R&D phase. You're getting back a very strong runner and we hope you enjoy the full VIP/NC package in return.:D Enjoy. :thumbup:

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a3d938b3127ccef3f3e0d7646a00000030O00AbMmLRw5ct2IPbz4S/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00107998412620130719161116513.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/
"Tigerpaws" baby

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a3d938b3127ccef3f2edd8858700000030O00AbMmLRw5ct2IPbz4S/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00107998412620130719150344933.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/
Baseline run all stock.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a3d938b3127ccef3f29ac8440400000030O00AbMmLRw5ct2IPbz4S/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00107998412620130719150352018.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/
Area P Standard Mount System/Long Quiet Core Muffler

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a3d938b3127ccef3f33e0464d600000030O00AbMmLRw5ct2IPbz4S/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00107998412620130719150353373.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/
Area P Ultra High Mount System/Standard Muffler

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a3d938b3127ccef3f3a3c9a5fd00000030O00AbMmLRw5ct2IPbz4S/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00107998412620130719150348419.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/
All runs combined

kbryant

I'm still impressed

:clapping:

Thanks for the write up, it saved me a lot of time. Not sure how they assemble this at the factory, it seems like they literally start with the airbox and build the bike around it!