Why am I posting it here? Because my 250, like your 300s is FI and I figured I'd have a better chance of getting answers here...

Basically I gutted my wiring harness and took of all the lights, left handle bar switches, horn, kick stand. Now my bike won't start. It's not getting current in the injectors i believe. What could be wrong? Please help. It's turning over, but not running. Tried push starting it as well, with no results.

I'm not gonna insult your intelligence by saying something ain't hooked up right :doh: I hate electrics!

:whathesaid: alex.s csmith12

I'm not gonna insult your intelligence by saying something ain't hooked up right :doh: I hate electrics!

Anything is possible... Hahaha. I think I'll disconnect my power commander and try once.

psych0hans, sorry to hear your engine's still not running.
One word says: If you lose connection to the earth - then you lose the ground.
To transfer this now to your Ninja, maybe you'd cut one cable that's given the ground-connection to anything you still need.
The most important tool for cars and motorcycles is this:
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=35464&stc=1&d=1426152723 ... I guess you have it.

But anyway, I think you know and maybe even you'd make a write-up about everything you'd cut, so follow the way from there, testing for ground-connections.
If this is not the right solution then follow the power-connections.

Good luck Hans :thumbup:

Hi Roland, it is definitely a power issue. Trying to sort it out. My power commander isn't getting any power, that means the injectors aren't getting any power... I'm going to disconnect the power commander to see if it helps.

CeMxhST2bY8

psych0hans, sorry to hear your engine's still not running.
One word says: If you lose connection to the earth - then you lose the ground.
To transfer this now to your Ninja, maybe you'd cut one cable that's given the ground-connection to anything you still need.
The most important tool for cars and motorcycles is this:
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=35464&stc=1&d=1426152723 ... I guess you have it.

But anyway, I think you know and maybe even you'd make a write-up about everything you'd cut, so follow the way from there, testing for ground-connections.
If this is not the right solution then follow the power-connections.

Good luck Hans :thumbup:

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a6/Digital_Multimeter_Aka.jpg

Ok Hans, then the solution should be easy - just disconnect the PC and see what happens.

Your tool is the comfortable one to measure how many power you got, while the easy tool I prefer is the one to check if there is power with just prick into the cable since in many cases it's only from interest if there is power but not how many.

Battery running low as well, could this be because of low amperage?

Hans. Most fuel injectors are simply coils that shut a valve. Fuel pressure behind them from the fuel pump causes the pressure which pulsing the injector releases. Do you have a fuel pump? Does the fuel pump see power?
If pump sees power does the ecu see power?
If they are powered on and the igntion is activated you should see some power at the injectors.

Kill switches? Safety switches?

You need to look at the wiring schematics and see what circuits are related to the circuits you removed. Many times, circuits have a common ground or power supply.

Charge the battery before you kill it completely.
Leave the PC out of the equation until the bike is running.
Is the fuel pump priming? You will hear it when you turn the key to the on position.

you said you disconnected your kickstand, did you jumper the two wires after you did that?

If not it will think the sidestand is down all the time and will not let the bike crank?

Also if you removed the ignition switch you need to make sure you have the proper resistor in place. This link will show you how to make a keyless ignition if interested:

http://www.garth285.com/howto/08-12-ex250-keyless-race-ignition-wiring/

you said you disconnected your kickstand, did you jumper the two wires after you did that?

If not it will think the sidestand is down all the time and will not let the bike crank?

+1

Also if you removed the ignition switch you need to make sure you have the proper resistor in place. This link will show you how to make a keyless ignition if interested:

http://www.garth285.com/howto/08-12-ex250-keyless-race-ignition-wiring/

you said you disconnected your kickstand, did you jumper the two wires after you did that?

If not it will think the sidestand is down all the time and will not let the bike crank?

Hi Shawn, I followed the instructions for the ignition delete to the T and I did short the kick stand switch as well. This is definitely not one of those issues because the engine is turning over just not starting.

Charge the battery before you kill it completely.
Leave the PC out of the equation until the bike is running.
Is the fuel pump priming? You will hear it when you turn the key to the on position.

Battery is in charge, PCV has been taken out. I think the fuel pump is working, but I will check this tomorrow. Also I didn't get a chance to check after removing the PCV as the battery was too far gone.

Sounds good, now one more other thing might be..... does your bike come with the kawasaki immobilizer? I know the ninja 300's have it outside the US, your 250 might have it as well and may need a standard keyswitch unless you get the ECU flashed to turn off the immobilizer.

Do you have a stock ignition you can test it out on?

Actually I know for a fact they have an immobilizer. I just got my hands on a FI 250 ECU map and it does have an immobilizer, this might be your problem????

Hans. Most fuel injectors are simply coils that shut a valve. Fuel pressure behind them from the fuel pump causes the pressure which pulsing the injector releases. Do you have a fuel pump? Does the fuel pump see power?
If pump sees power does the ecu see power?
If they are powered on and the igntion is activated you should see some power at the injectors.

Kill switches? Safety switches?

I do have some power at the ignition, but I think I read it at only 4amps or so, I will double check this tomorrow. I checked the CDI and that has power in all but two connections, one was the oxygen sensor and the other was the start button. I will check the ECU tomorrow.

Sounds good, now one more other thing might be..... does your bike come with the kawasaki immobilizer? I know the ninja 300's have it outside the US, your 250 might have it as well and may need a standard keyswitch unless you get the ECU flashed to turn off the immobilizer.

Do you have a stock ignition you can test it out on?

Actually I know for a fact they have an immobilizer. I just got my hands on a FI 250 ECU map and it does have an immobilizer, this might be your problem????

This I have no idea about to be very honest. What does an immobilized do?

o2 sensors only generate power when heated with low oxygen gases so not seeing power there would be correct. some o2 sensors have a heating unit, typically 4 wires total. if its not getting heated it will report incorrectly. but even with no o2 sensor it should still be putting in gas. check the volts going to a fuel injector. it will make it pretty obvious what is happening. when cranking you will see the volts going to the injector drop every time it tries to put in fuel.

I believe the key has a chip in it and it has to communicate with the ECU to let the bike run.

The resistor mod that I have posted I dont think will work for this application, you might want to try hooking up the stock switch and seeing if it works

I believe the key has a chip in it and it has to communicate with the ECU to let the bike run.

The resistor mod that I have posted I dont think will work for this application, you might want to try hooking up the stock switch and seeing if it works

But in that case the engine would probably not turn over either right?

It might, I am not sure at all really, we dont have them in the US or well I have never seen one myself. But I'd try a stock ignition and go from there!

most antitheft lockouts kill spark and fuel and let the starter go to confuse the thieves