The story is a month ago I bought my first Ninja 250R. The paint job was in horrible condition. I researched and browsed many internet sources about the cheap Rustoleum paint job. Everything seemed to be in the prep work to make the cheap paint job as good looking as possible. But to me there were a lot of unanswered questions:

What clear coat should I use? (I could never get a straight forward answer)
Does Rustoleum primer work with any paint can?
How well does the Rustoleum brand clear coat stuff hold up?

So here I am painting two squares of two different brands of paint on a really busted up side fairing.
Here are the paints I will be testing, they are all in spray can:
~ Rustoleum Automotive Primer Light Gray
~ Rustoleum Protective Enamel Spray Gloss Lagoon
~ Rustoleum Automotive Enamel Clear
~ Valspar Premium Enamel Spray Paint Gloss Tropical Oasis

This side fairing I got off of Ebay for cheap, perfect for testing paints on it. The fairing itself is in rough condition but it'll make due for this purpose. I first started out cleaning the paint area with acetone. Then it was followed by some 240 grit sand paper, followed by 320 grit sand paper, then finally by 600 grit sand paper. I washed it with acetone again afterwords. This is the panel after prepping:

http://i.imgur.com/zsauV9eh.jpg

Now onto the primer! I used Rustoleum Automotive Primer this project. This is what the panel sections look like after two coats of primer and after being wetsand with 600 grit paper:

http://i.imgur.com/Af78Joyh.jpg

On the right side is the Rustoleum and on the left side is the Valspar. The "clear coat" from Rustoleum hasn't been applied yet. The Valspar stuff only took two coats and it went on very smoothly. The Rustoleum paint had three coats laid down and it was wet sanded with 800 grit sandpaper between the 2nd and third coat:

http://i.imgur.com/6mU1Us6h.jpg

I did wait an hour before applying the clear coat to both paints. I'll let the clear coat dry for a while before I start wet sanding it with 1500 grit. Then it'll be off to the elements with these two sections.
Since the rain has been constantly pouring in Colorado I'll be planning on leaving the panel outside for quite a bit. Maybe "accidentally" spill gasoline on the two sections and see how they hold up. Cleaning them with car wash soap every two days once they get out into the open.

I'm open to any suggestions! Thanks :D

Basic stuff, but several thin layers is much much much better than thicker layers. Also, use a LOT of clear coat, and if it's a rattlecan job, you might wanna wax the bike every 6 months to keep it from getting all messed up. Rattlecan just doesn't hold up that well. Make sure to stress test that side fairing thoroughly.

Basic stuff, but several thin layers is much much much better than thicker layers. Also, use a LOT of clear coat, and if it's a rattlecan job, you might wanna wax the bike every 6 months to keep it from getting all messed up. Rattlecan just doesn't hold up that well. Make sure to stress test that side fairing thoroughly.

I didn't think about the wax thing. I was planning on putting at least 4 coats of clear coat on each test section.

I'd be surprised if either clear could stand up to gas.

Generally, paint is weaker and will chip easier the thicker it gets.

The only spray-can clear that I know of that will stand up to gas is a 2-part (2K) product like this - http://www.spraymax.com/index.php?id=361&L=1, $32 free ship here - http://www.amazon.com/Spray-High-Gloss-Clearcoat-Aerosol/dp/B0043B7UQY, $26 here - http://www.eastwood.com/spray-max-2k-high-gloss-clearcoat-aerosol.html.

That's the only clear that's worth putting on a gas tank if you want it to look good and not get mess-up the first time you spill.

Iirc urethane clear coats yellow over time while acrylic ones need more care. Look up some stuff on acrylic v urethane paints, too. It all comes down to preference but its definitely something to consider.

Iirc urethane clear coats yellow over time while acrylic ones need more care. Look up some stuff on acrylic v urethane paints, too. It all comes down to preference but its definitely something to consider.

It's the fact that the 2K clear has a catalyst, and not so much the base chemistry that makes it more durable.

I've used epoxy spray clear (epoxy resin is the most chemical resistant) and gas still softened it.

You won't come close to the 2K clear with anything you can get at a home store.

So here I am painting two squares of two different brands of paint on a really busted up side fairing.

It's really cool what you're doing! Thanks much for doing it and sharing the pictures and results with us!

Looking forward to seeing your future posts.

My KLR has been spray painted for years. It will look ok for a year, maybe 2, then I re paint. I use polyurethane on the tank, it works pretty well to protect from gas.

I let the last coat of 4 dry over night and I wet sanded recently. Made the glossiness of the paint go away. It looks a bit dull. Slapped on some polishing compound and that seemed to have brought back the shininess of the paint.

It's really cool what you're doing! Thanks much for doing it and sharing the pictures and results with us!

Looking forward to seeing your future posts.

Yeah I just wanted to see if a different brand of spray paint would be compatible with the Rustoleum primer and clear coat. So far the Valspar spray paint has been holding up (they have a lot more color choices anyway).

Yeah I just wanted to see if a different brand of spray paint would be compatible with the Rustoleum primer and clear coat. So far the Valspar spray paint has been holding up (they have a lot more color choices anyway).

Any updates on this? Been a while since you posted.