Hey all, I don't post around here much but I thought I would show my build.

http://zaphaudio.com/temp/N300_finished_1.jpg

http://zaphaudio.com/temp/N300_finished_2.jpg

http://zaphaudio.com/temp/N300_finished_3.jpg

http://zaphaudio.com/temp/N300_finished_4.jpg

http://zaphaudio.com/temp/N300_finished_5.jpg

http://zaphaudio.com/temp/N300_dyno_tune_+stock_a.jpg

Me and a buddy on a 600 at Blackhawk Farms. Bike was about 1/2 done at this point, no race fairings yet.
J4zrPzxtxOg

K-Tech cartridges, fully adjustable - No skimping in the one place where I want the absolute best I can get. I was going to cheap out and get Racetech emulators, but decided against them due to their limited adjustments. These carts are an expensive option but well worth it. I also considered Bitubo and Traxxion cartridge kits. I don't have personal experience with these, so I listened to the experience of a few others and made a choice. There is literally nobody in the world who has tried 2 different sets of cartridges and offered a comparison, so I had to obtain individual reviews and read between the lines. This isn't like supersports where everyone knows what the good stuff is. Installed by Velocity Calibrations, located in St. Louis MO and servicing many Midwest racetracks. BTW, for those considering a DIY install of these carts, there is a machining operation on the fork lowers.

Ohlins KA841 rear shock - Riders Discount gave me a great price on this, and I liked the custom mounting included for the remote reservior that is made just for the 300. I had a GSXR 600 shock to use but opted for this Ohlins because I wanted a good, proven (and fresh) option with no cutting, machining and other hack jobs to make a shock fit that wasn't meant for the bike.

Springs - Both suspension options are sprung to my weight. I'm a big dude. 5'-11" and 210 lbs. My instructions to Velocity Calibrations in selecting my spring rate beyond my weight and the fact I am racing, was that I am a beast on the brakes. When I'm on the brakes, pretty much 100% of the weight is on my front wheel.

Galfer SST brake lines - Cheap and easy improvement in braking feel. And thankfully, I didn't have ABS on my bike. The Ninja's ABS doesn't work well at the track because of it's early interference, it's a pain to bleed, and braking feel suffers. So the Galfer line is a simple straight single line.

Vesrah VD 250 RJL pads - The highest friction option for the 300. The majority of pad options for the 300 are meant for commuters, not racers. The Vesrah come the closest to a racing pad in my opinion. Since I'm not doing a caliper/master upgrade, I need the best pad I can get for racing. OEM brakes are seriously weak. These help a lot. EBC Extreme Pro pads work great on my 675R, However their linear friction curve with low initial bite isn't what the Ninja 300 needs. And the 300 definitely doesn't need the plain HH pads, which are total crap. EBC GP pads would have been great, but not available for the 300.

Woodcraft clip-ons - They seem to be built better than some of the cheaper brands, so I didn't want to skimp here. These are needed to put me into more of a racing rider position and to allow easier access to the damping adjustments on the forks. I also needed the 10mm spacer kit to allow the bars to get into a more suitable angle. (rather than grind the top triple clamp) I zip tied the brake line out of the way and it just barely clears the instrument panel.

Yoshimura Rearset brackets - These relocate the factory footpegs about 2" back and 2" higher. The 300 Ninja has a serious lean angle limitation. Something has to be done. I liked the factory footpegs as they are legit sportbike pegs. (not like the rubber coated crap of the previous generation) I also wanted to retain the spring loaded folding of the factory pegs. I've seen too many rigid pegs start a bike rolling. (this is up for furious debate - I recognize some love rigid rearset footpegs) Note that my suspension is set up tall, which also helps with lean angle.

MotoFairings Inc race bodywork - These are about the same quality as Hotbodies. In other words, not that great and you need to be ready for some elbow grease to make them fit and work. They are less than half the price of Sharkskinz, a fair trade off. If you are the kind of person who has a fit if something doesn't bolt right up with no effort, these fairings are not for you.

Dunlop Unbeaten 02 tires - Best value in sticky race tires. 150/60 and 110/70 sizes. It was either these or Pirelli Supercorsas, but 150 and 110 Pirelli tires are always expensive and special order. I bought these Unbeatens just before the Alpha 13's came out.

Tune for VP fuels MR12 - This fuel is oxygenated. The single biggest performance boost. It's basically free horsepower, and on a racing 300 that's priceless. But damn, the stuff is $30 a gallon, and it's harsh to the fuel system. It has to be drained after running it. I will only run this stuff for race day and go back to 91 octane pump gas for track days.

Full floating rotor (EBC MD4166XC) - Stock rotor has a tendency of warping and is very heavy. The EBC is lighter and the German rolled SST alloy has a higher coefficient of friction.

Yoshimura full exhaust (SST version) - Best value for a full exhaust system, and Rider's discount once again set me up well. I could save maybe a pound with the carbon fiber version, but I want a system that doesn't shred when it touches asphalt. If I crash in a race, running a steel canister, there is a chance I can pick up my bike and keep going if nothing else is too damaged. I am being realistic about racing... I WILL crash, I have in the past and I will again, it's just a matter of when and how.

Power Commander - I hate these but for me it's a necessary evil. I would have preferred to use Flash-Tune and go without the Power Commander, but for some reason they got real expensive and limited. Last time I used them it was $100 for a flash and unlimited re-flashes. Now it's $250 for a single flash and it costs extra for a re-flash. Not to mention, while Flash-tune does good work for normal tunes with 91 octane gas, I don't really trust them to give me a proper flash with race fuel. And given the fact that most local tuners are completely clueless to direct ECU flashing and only know how to tune with a Power Commander, I guess that is the way I have to go. Not really happy about it. Direct flashing ECU's should be the future, and power commanders need to fade away. Oh, and I'll have 2 tunes, one for pump 91 octane and the other for race gas. With that I'll need a Power Commander anyway, since the OEM ECU can't store an alternative map.

The little stuff - Yoshimura exhaust bracket because the rear footpegs have the weight of a boat anchor. All Balls tapered steering head bearings since the OEM bearings went to hell within 1 day at the track. Switch added to flip maps for pump 91 octane to MR12. Lever protectors in case of a little bumpity bump in the corners. Race number decals from a local vinyl supplier. Evil eyes off ebay. Mirror block off plates, Motul RBF600 brake fluid, Swingarm spools, yadda yadda.

Possible Future work:

Dunlop Alpha 13's when my Unbeaten 02s are done - These are the spec tires for the MotoAmerica RC cup. The RC390 has the same size rims as the Ninja 300, and the 110/70 150/60 combo fits perfectly. Awesome race tires I hear.

High flow air filter - I think I have to maintain the factory airbox for one of the classes I may be racing in. So all I can do is put in the best filter I can. The K&N isn't enough of an improvement over stock, so I want a BMC race filter. I will have to do another dyno run though.

This bike is meant for CCS Ultralight Thunderbike, GT Ultralight, and 500SS here in the Midwest. ULTB and GTUL have a 300 cc cap, so no RC390s or R3s allowed. But it is relatively open to modifications. 500SS is a class made for the CBR500, but nobody races those because they are turds. Class is loaded with RC390s, Ninja 300s and maybe a couple R3s. It has supersport rules, and the key there is no modded airbox.

It was a tough decision for me to include 500SS in my race agenda, because of the airbox limitations. But if I only race ULTB and GTUL, then I can add pod filters and get 3-4 more horsepower. I may just decided to cut out 500SS yet but I am going to try a couple to see how it goes against RC390s.

When I bought it, the bike had a light downer on the left side which saved me a few hundred bucks, but it's still kind of a pricey build. Could have gotten a race prepped middleweight for the money I dumped into it, but that's not what I wanted. There is a certain amount of fun on this build that I don't get on my 675R. I feel like it's making me a better rider, and ultralight racing isn't quite the meat grinder that middleweight is. Still some of the guys racing ultralight are frigging serious, with builds well into the 5 digit price range. It will be a fun year, if I don't crash out and get all busted up like previous years on my 675. It hasn't been easy for me, I have a total of 3 titanium plates and 50 screws in me right now.

I think what I'm looking forward to most is not burning up a $400 set of Pirelli race tires in 2 days like I do on my 675. The 300 sips MR12 race gas lightly also. With that stuff, miles per gallon counts.

Looks fantastic!

Is the base line using that special fuel?

Is the base line using that special fuel?

No, they are all 91 octane ethanol free pump gas except the top green line, which is MR12.

I have a total of 3 titanium plates and 50 screws in me right now.

I wish you to heal up soon and complete.

May I ask you if you didn't know about Matt's fork-solution, pattonme?
I think his one for the forks should be the best of all, since with them every single adjustment for each side is possible.
K-Tech is not different to Andreani (one leg controls rebound, the other compression damping).
Tell me that I'm wrong, but from my understanding the FGVE's have rebound plus compression for each single fork (I know the setup is not as easy as the other way and therefore it might be limited [also nearly everybody 'hates' them]).
Good luck for you :thumbup:

There is literally nobody in the world who has tried 2 different sets of cartridges and offered a comparison,


Well, that can be arranged... :)

So I see you're going to tangle with CapitalView on his R3. You're about the same weight and height so should be fun.

A 2-piston config for cartridges can absolutely work if it's done right, Somchai. I just haven't seen a K-tech to tear it apart and evaluate.

best of luck in the upcoming season.

Thx Matt, yes I believe this because it wouldn't be sold if it didn't do.
I also did not want to say anything about it's not working.
Since English isn't my native language maybe sometimes i become misunderstood.

I wish you to heal up soon and complete.

May I ask you if you didn't know about Matt's fork-solution,

Yeah, I learned about those from a guy on the other 300 forum. But I had already bought my cartridges though. I would have been all over that, sounds like a great solution. After a little use and a day of tweaking with the help of Velocity Calibrations, the K-tech's feel pretty good. Nowhere near the composure of my 675R, but I could hustle around corners without my sphincter clenching.


So I see you're going to tangle with CapitalView on his R3. You're about the same weight and height so should be fun.

Oh yeah, we both have our builds shown over at WiRiders.com. That is a nice looking R3. I will only see him (meaning the back of his bike, lol) if I get in 500SS though.

Hey, any of you guys ever hear of anyone who modified their wheels for lower weight? I think it's still SS legal if its the OEM wheels. I take my wheels off in the winter so my race tires don't freeze and I noticed the rear wheel of my '13 675R weighs a shocking 2 lbs less. The 300 wheels are heavy mofos! So I was looking at them, and that middle ridge meant for clip-on wheels weights could be milled off. Probably prohibitively expensive, but I was a little disappointed how heavy the 300's wheels were.

You have access to a lathe and/or mill and/or machine shop? I'd bet there's some weight to be lost, but idk where would be the best spot to trim. Also, there may be surface hardening and/or heat treatment that may help, but that's a little beyond my experience. Any weight you take off will be banking on a decent safety factor in the OE design because that's what you'll be reducing when you trim material. Forged wheels that are designed to be light weight are really the best way to cut weight without losing strength. Those are pricey though! :eek:

Definitely interested in what you come up with! I like the build a lot so far.

not only can you not mill the wheels where it will immediately show to anyone at Tech, that ridge is a rigidity element. You might be able to thin the wheel 'tub' on the inside where a mounted tire obviously conceals your "rule breaking". ;)

Oh, I wasn't sure if milling the OEM wheels stayed within SS rules. The CCS rule book says OEM wheels required, but doesn't say modifying them is not allowed. I just did some searching, and I saw a couple comments stating it was legal. In fact a couple of guys have removed the ridge.

The ridge didn't look structural to me, it looked like something put there to hold weight clips. It's a moot point anyway, I'm not likely to do that as the gains would be minimal.

we removed the ridge and thinned the spokes, also enlarged the holes on hub, on our 250, only removed 1lb, no adverse affects on either wheel, to remove ridge for weights just use die grinder then smooth out with a sanding disc

Maybe I'm just being a safety nazi but had you done FEA on the wheel? I could see maybe eroding sections of the ridge well clear of the spoke intersections but the savings would be minimal.

FEA is fine and dandy (and is really useful for designing/testing parts) but it's only valid if you have perfectly defined all forces involved, and I don't mean rough estimates of forces. If you want a meaningful FEA result, you need to know every force on that wheel that it will ever experience. Static loads, impulses from bumps, side loading from lean angle, everything. Miss one force or get one magnitude wrong and your margin of error is suddenly larger than your fudge factor for safety. On the other hand, you may have just required an insanely high safety factor that makes anchors out of your wheels.

You can do FEA until you're blue in the face, but if you aren't the master of what that wheel experiences, you're just pissing in the ocean. It's not like the computer magically spits out the right numbers.

Matt, I don't know your background. You seem to have a solid handle on racebike and suspension setup, but I have no idea what your experience with FEA is, so please pardon me if I'm out of line.

well sure, my point was in contrast to the cavalier, "hey, i'll just grind these bits off because I don't know what purpose they serve and I just gotta save a few ounces".

And clearly I'll leave all such FEA matters up to you.

My intuition is that the ridge is there deliberately to spread load and act as a spine. without it you get heavy concentration of stress at the hoop/spoke interface. FWIW the automotive "standard" pothole (defined loosely) for wheel impacts is something like 3G up and 2-3G rearward.

Before one starts with the suspension...
...the first steps should be, reduce as many weight as allowed.

Here are some thoughts about that:
Galespeed Rims ~ 2.0 kilograms (Magnesium = 4.0 kilograms)
All screws from aluminum ~ 2.0 - 2.5 kilograms
Rear subframe aluminum ~ 3.5 kilograms
Front fairing stay aluminum ~ 1.0 kilogram
Race fairings ~ 2.0 - 3.0 kilograms
Sprockets aluminum ~ 1.0 kilogram
Chain-Kit 418 ~ 1.0 kilogram
Engine covers from Carbon ~ 1.0 - 2.0 kilogram
Remove the balance shaft ~ 2.0 kilograms
and many more...
Suspension depends on weight, so start with it after the weight reduction...
The goal must be as less weight as possible (the Scuderia Platini reduced their Ninja 250SS by 28 kilograms).

PS: The above numbers show a round about weight reduction, not the weight of the components.

are those weight savings figures, or is it how much the components weigh and the delta to OE is yet to be undetermined?

Miss one force or get one magnitude wrong and your margin of error is suddenly larger than your fudge factor for safety.It's not like the computer magically spits out the right numbers.

LOL, you just gave me some Pro/E Mechanica flashback tremors :bounce: :thumbup:

While it may not be possible to accurately model the resulting stress changes due to the modification of the wheel, it is a valid point that there is certainly a large chunk of risk someone takes when making such a modification. The change may not be significant in terms of reliability but it is essentially untested and unproven until it is put through its paces. And should it choose to be significant, the results could be less than enjoyable.

are those weight savings figures, or is it how much the components weigh and the delta to OE is yet to be undetermined?

I would imagine that list is accurate for neither of those but meant to be examples of potential weight savings.

My intuition is that the ridge is there deliberately to spread load and act as a spine. without it you get heavy concentration of stress at the hoop/spoke interface. FWIW the automotive "standard" pothole (defined loosely) for wheel impacts is something like 3G up and 2-3G rearward.

Hey, no joke. Can you link to a reference for that? Interested for some of my extracurriculars and that would be a good read.

Looking at how small that ridge is, my gut tells me that it's there mostly for spooning tires onto and off the rim, but I'm not qualified to make that statement with any amount of authority at all.

LOL, you just gave me some Pro/E Mechanica flashback tremors :bounce: :thumbup:

While it may not be possible to accurately model the resulting stress changes due to the modification of the wheel, it is a valid point that there is certainly a large chunk of risk someone takes when making such a modification. The change may not be significant in terms of reliability but it is essentially untested and unproven until it is put through its paces. And should it choose to be significant, the results could be less than enjoyable.

I've used Solidworks and ANSYS for analysis on simple parts. I'm learning Creo (continuation of Pro E) and it's the same pain in the kiester. I wouldn't attempt to do optimization on a wheel because it's complicated and I don't know all the forces acting on it. I'm not qualified to tell anyone else where they can cut their wheels.

Just remember that before we used computers, race teams survived (or sometimes not) by modifying their parts and testing to failure. I'd bet there's a high enough safety factor on those wheels to trim the lip off... but I'm not going to bet someone else's life on it. Nor would I do it myself. If I'm going to mess with wheel weight, I'm probably going to do it with light weight tires or expensive aftermarket wheels or fitting wheels from another bike.

Before one starts with the suspension...
...the first steps should be, reduce as many weight as allowed.

Here are some thoughts about that:
Galespeed Rims ~ 2.0 kilograms (Magnesium = 4.0 kilograms)
All screws from aluminum ~ 2.0 - 2.5 kilograms
Rear subframe aluminum ~ 3.5 kilograms
Front fairing stay aluminum ~ 1.0 kilogram
Race fairings ~ 2.0 - 3.0 kilograms
Sprockets aluminum ~ 1.0 kilogram
Chain-Kit 418 ~ 1.0 kilogram
Engine covers from Carbon ~ 1.0 - 2.0 kilogram
Remove the balance shaft ~ 2.0 kilograms
and many more...


You forgot the biggest one - my gut. Lol, I'm not exactly Dani Pedrosa. I'm working on that right now though. I'm 215 and 5'-11". My bike is sprung for that weight, and I think I could get down to 190-195 before I need to redo my springs again. My triathlon weight when I'm in training is 185.

No aftermarket wheels for me - I have to stay withing SS rules. All screws aluminum? Seems dangerous with the low shear strength, and making all screws titanium is a waste of money. Carbon engine covers on a bike with a heavy steel frame? Bahaha no thanks.

I'm thinking about a chain and sprocket kit, but that's low priority for the time being. As for modifying the frame, I need to make the decision that this will never be a road bike again. Not sure at this point and I have all the street plastics in a box in the basement. Of course after I crash it, I'll say "yup, this is going to stay a track bike." Hahah. But make no mistake, the ninja's heavy wheels and "heavy side down" front forks are total crap. Very high unsprung weight and there's real no fixing it while staying under supersport rules. About all we can do is improve it slightly. Bike is still fun as hell though.

I'm an engineer and I do have access to FEA as part of our AutoCAD design suite, but I wouldn't bother. If I did do some milling, I would just draw up good cross section of the rim and the spokes and make a judgement call. It's not rocket science. I only do track riding and therefor can rule out road hazards. The wheels won't fall apart on me unless I high side it or hit an off track obstacle.

A guy on the CCS forum machined the middle rib down on an SV650. It passed tech but it was less than a half pound. Probably not even worth it. I lost more weight than that with my EBC floating rotor. I guess the nice part is that I got the major components of the build done so now I can have fun thinking about the minor mods like trimming weight.

How about other directions.

Aluminum fairing stay? Minimalist wiring harness? Helium in the tires? :lol:

How about other directions.

Aluminum fairing stay? Minimalist wiring harness? Helium in the tires? :lol:

Well I usually like to put a mix in my tires that includes 78% nitrogen. Has worked well so far. :D

I don't think the fairing stay needs upgrading though. The main benefit to changing out the fairing stay on some bikes is to get one that doesn't break in a crash. The 300's seems pretty durable and if it did get whacked out of line, a little tap with a rubber hammer in the pits would put it back. On some bikes, like my 675s, the front subframe is cast aluminum and it will break into 3 pieces if you breath on it wrong.

Lots of opportunity for lightening the bike at the point when I decide it will never go back to stock. (generally that happens after my first crash, hahah)

WANT!!!!

https://media.giphy.com/media/Vmunw0k7q12Ks/giphy.gif

what gearing did you use at bhf and what times were you turning

I only ran there once on a track day and the bike was only half done with factory gearing. My times there weren't very good, but I was spending most of the day working out my suspension and unlearning braking points from my 676R. My first lap I hit the brakes at the tower like I normally do on my 675R. 2 seconds later... "well that was dumb." Hahah Time will tell what my best will be.

The faster guys on 300's are in the 22's, at least not those running cheater big bore kits that never get post race inspections. (they will this year) 25's gets you mid pack and 29's get you last place, but still faster than the slowest SV650's.

I'm thinking of putting in a full k-tech set up. Sounds like our not completely satisfy with the fronts, what don't you like about them?

Oh I do like the front carts I have installed. But make no mistake, they don't compare to the solid and composed feeling my 675R has. The 300 just moves around a little more in turns, but I still feel in control. It's just the nature of a budget bike. I recognize that part of it is the chassis, and there's no real improving that.

I considered an all K-tech setup including the rear shock, but the Ohlins was about $250 cheaper, and from most of my research, people generally liked it. Feels good to me.

The faster guys on 300's are in the 22's, at least not those running cheater big bore kits that never get post race inspections. (they will this year) 25's gets you mid pack and 29's get you last place, but still faster than the slowest SV650's.

Who has overbored a 300? The nikasil doesn't take well to boring and no pistons are available that I'm aware of.

nlNice write up on the mods, actually answered questions I didn't think of. The bike is beautiful!

Who has overbored a 300? The nikasil doesn't take well to boring and no pistons are available that I'm aware of.

Its a different procedure entirely. The Nikasil is just a plating. Paper thin. It has to be bored, replated, and honed. My shop does this all the time, but with Hayabusas, GSXR1000s, CBR1000s, 600s, R1, R6, etc, etc, etc.... Havent done a 300 yet but thats not to say its impossible. The Wiseco and JE pistons for the 250 work for the 300 as well, though I believe there is a minor amount of spacing you may have to do but thats it.

Its a different procedure entirely. The Nikasil is just a plating. Paper thin. It has to be bored, replated, and honed. My shop does this all the time, but with Hayabusas, GSXR1000s, CBR1000s, 600s, R1, R6, etc, etc, etc.... Havent done a 300 yet but thats not to say its impossible. The Wiseco and JE pistons for the 250 work for the 300 as well, though I believe there is a minor amount of spacing you may have to do but thats it.

I'm pretty familiar with the proceedure. I was just feeling out Zaph to see whos messing with their bikes in our CCS region.:D

Zaph42

i'm going to upgrade the suspension and i'm deciding between a full ktech cartridge/ ktech shock vs andreani cartridge/elka shock? Do you have any thoughts on the andreani or elka products?


bruce71198

I think sprinter got some customs pistons. https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=141856

Ahh, gotcha!

Any of the JE pistons work with the 300? Will benefit be just a bump up in compression?

Its a different procedure entirely. The Nikasil is just a plating. Paper thin. It has to be bored, replated, and honed. My shop does this all the time, but with Hayabusas, GSXR1000s, CBR1000s, 600s, R1, R6, etc, etc, etc.... Havent done a 300 yet but thats not to say its impossible. The Wiseco and JE pistons for the 250 work for the 300 as well, though I believe there is a minor amount of spacing you may have to do but thats it.

im lovin the paint scheme :bow:

Nice work

Any of the JE pistons work with the 300? Will benefit be just a bump up in compression?

In theory they work, its just a matter of getting the right spacer under the cylinder block.

Very nice build.. I'll be doing a similar paint job but maybe different red accents. New bodywork is shipping this week...

I'm running the same CCS classes as you, but over in Mid Atlantic Region...

For the 500SS/ULTB dilemma, I'm considering using the airbox for 500SS, which races on Saturday, then switching out for pods for the ULTB race on Sunday... is your schedule setup like that so you could swap them Sat night?

dem eyes

sweet build all around, I think you'll be pleasantly surprised when you get your hands on a set of alpha 13s

personally I'm thinking of going to the bridgestone slicks, the ccs contingency would be nice to have and they seem to have crazy grip/longevity. Just need rain tires on an extra set of rims for it to be worth it

dem eyes

sweet build all around, I think you'll be pleasantly surprised when you get your hands on a set of alpha 13s

personally I'm thinking of going to the bridgestone slicks, the ccs contingency would be nice to have and they seem to have crazy grip/longevity. Just need rain tires on an extra set of rims for it to be worth it

What slicks do you speak of? There aren't any bridgestone slicks in the 140-150 range that I know of.. I think 160 is the smallest rear slick available.

I'll be running the new Bridgestone RS10 DOT tires, the 150 is being manufactured now and will be available in the US in April I am told. I'm going to run the pirelli's from last year until then.

What slicks do you speak of? There aren't any bridgestone slicks in the 140-150 range that I know of.. I think 160 is the smallest rear slick available.

I'll be running the new Bridgestone RS10 DOT tires, the 150 is being manufactured now and will be available in the US in April I am told. I'm going to run the pirelli's from last year until then.

http://www.motorcycle-karttires.com/RoadRacing.aspx
the 250gp slick has a 155 rear. I've seen it in action on a 300 before
found this link to them off the ccs website under bridgestone's contingency button

Seeing as I can't seem to find an actual for sale link for them and the racer complained the front had too much grip I'm interested in these RS10s (I'm likely to stick with the dunlops but if I can get cash for running bridgestones in ccs then I'm tempted)

http://www.motorcycle-karttires.com/RoadRacing.aspx
the 250gp slick has a 155 rear. I've seen it in action on a 300 before
found this link to them off the ccs website under bridgestone's contingency button

Seeing as I can't seem to find an actual for sale link for them and the racer complained the front had too much grip I'm interested in these RS10s (I'm likely to stick with the dunlops but if I can get cash for running bridgestones in ccs then I'm tempted)


According to that link the 155 tire is for an 18" rim...would make for an interesting ride on a 300 wheel...

I always ran Bridgestones on my last race bike (FZR400/600), but the research I did everyone says the Pirelli Diablo Supercorsa was the best for the 250.. It is a real race compound, where the Bridgeston RS10 and previous S20 are closer to street compound rubber. I'm going to try the RS10's and if they aren't a big drop in performance from the Pirellis I'll continue running them, for the contingency possibility.

damn, missed that detail. Good eyes man

I swear I've seen smaller sv650 slicks on a ninja 300 before though. Could have been 160 or 165
The pirellis are fantastic tires but they're so expensive compared to the other options, pretty confident that the bridgestones will be cheaper the dunlops are a lot cheaper too

I believe some people run a 90/110 slick combo on the stock wheels.

dem eyes

The perfect eyes for your bike from Prostickers.com on Ebay (http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=1+Set+Yellow+Red+Evil+Eye+Zombie+Decal+Sticker+Each+Eye+5%22x+12%22&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X1+Set+Evil+Eye+Zombie+Decal+Sticker+Eac h+Eye+5%22x+12%22.TRS0&_nkw=1+Set+Evil+Eye+Zombie+Decal+Sticker+Each+Eye+5%22x+12%22&_sacat=0).
Available in a bunch of different color combos. I would expect green to be pretty good looking on standard lime green Kawis.
http://thumbs.ebaystatic.com/images/g/GY4AAMXQgyZSBPJl/s-l225.jpg


sweet build all around, I think you'll be pleasantly surprised when you get your hands on a set of alpha 13s


I'm a Pirelli man but decided to take a step away from those on this 300. Just too damn expensive. SC DOT race tires stick like nothing else in the world, but at least on my 675R they are pretty much done in 2 days. If the alpha 13's come anywhere close to that sticky, I will be happy. Burning away thousands on tires every year is one of the main driving reasons behind building a ultralight race bike. And despite it's dated tech, the bike still manages to be a load of fun on the track.

Yeah I think I only went through 2 sets of alpha 13s and one set of pirellis across last season.

I'm expecting to run through 4-5 sets of tires this year but that's with 70-80 days at the track planned.

Yeah I think I only went through 2 sets of alpha 13s and one set of pirellis across last season.

I'm expecting to run through 4-5 sets of tires this year but that's with 70-80 days at the track planned.

whoa whoa whoa, shoot me a pm and let me know how you plan on getting in these 70-80 days worth of track time. I'm also interested :happy10: seriously tho

whoa whoa whoa, shoot me a pm and let me know how you plan on getting in these 70-80 days worth of track time. I'm also interested :happy10: seriously tho

no need for PM

Team ProMotion Titanium membership is good for 70 days or so
+ CCS Atlantic
+ 1-2 days at Mid-O
+ Jennings endurance races in Nov: 3 days

Awesome build! Im kind of jealous because this is damn near the same paint scheme I had in mind for my race build....

Yeah I think I only went through 2 sets of alpha 13s and one set of pirellis across last season.

I'm expecting to run through 4-5 sets of tires this year but that's with 70-80 days at the track planned.


So what exactly do you do for a living, and are you hiring?

So what exactly do you do for a living, and are you hiring?

I work 60-80hrs/week during the school year while being a student
once the season is going it'll be 40hrs/week

waiting tables/bartending/I run a parcel delivery system (mostly for attorneys who forget their paperwork in the morning and need it at the courthouse as fast as possible but I ferry paperwork between offices as well) and I'm in school to be an accountant right now so I know how distribute money well. Savings go a long way. It helps that my rent is cheap and I don't mind living like a miser

Total track budget it $7,500~ this year for all of those days and races, it's literally the only thing I do that costs money. If I wasn't on a ninja 300 I wouldn't be able to afford it

Thats awesome man!!! Good luck and ill see you on the grid this season!

no need for PM

Team ProMotion Titanium membership is good for 70 days or so
+ CCS Atlantic
+ 1-2 days at Mid-O
+ Jennings endurance races in Nov: 3 days

Nice. I don't think I'll get 70 days, but most of my non- CCS racing time on track is going to be practice time at the kart track. I happen to have the best kart track in the USA about 1/2 hr from my house. (USAIR) Depending on the configuration, it's up to 21 turns and 1.1 miles of premium world class asphalt. It's a fun, demanding and technical track with banked corners and dramatic elevation changes. Pretty much a world class facility, and not patched and repaired all to hell like some tracks. I rode my supermoto there often but I'll be getting a lot of seat time on the 300 there this year.

http://zaphaudio.com/temp/USAIR-aerial.jpg

My one track day splurge this year will be at NCM in Kentucky with MidwestTrackDay end of April. Any Ninjettes showing up for that? Come find me and say hi.

I think csmith12 could be convinced to do a day at NCM in Kentucky

I think csmith12 could be convinced to do a day at NCM in Kentucky

Cool, we can start a thread if you want to kick it around before hand. That track trip is mostly Kevin's to plan for us, but I am excited to haul is there and ride.

time on track is going to be practice time at the kart track. I happen to have the best kart track in the USA about 1/2 hr from my house. (USAIR) ...Pretty much a world class facility, and not patched and repaired all to hell like some tracks.


LOL, most of my track time will be on a kart track as well ...... but it will be patched and repaired all to hell :D

That is a ridiculously nice kart track.

Nice. I don't think I'll get 70 days, but most of my non- CCS racing time on track is going to be practice time at the kart track. I happen to have the best kart track in the USA about 1/2 hr from my house. (USAIR) Depending on the configuration, it's up to 21 turns and 1.1 miles of premium world class asphalt. It's a fun, demanding and technical track with banked corners and dramatic elevation changes. Pretty much a world class facility, and not patched and repaired all to hell like some tracks. I rode my supermoto there often but I'll be getting a lot of seat time on the 300 there this year.

http://zaphaudio.com/temp/USAIR-aerial.jpg

My one track day splurge this year will be at NCM in Kentucky with MidwestTrackDay end of April. Any Ninjettes showing up for that? Come find me and say hi.

I love this track! Although you won't find it in this condition anymore it's still nice. I got my son started here on his Ninja250 when he was 12. He and I have many laps on this track. I tried uploading a video but its not cooperating. I think Anne and Pat still run the operation for the bank that owns it. For a minimal fee you can practice weeknights there.

I love this track! Although you won't find it in this condition anymore it's still nice. I got my son started here on his Ninja250 when he was 12. He and I have many laps on this track. I tried uploading a video but its not cooperating. I think Anne and Pat still run the operation for the bank that owns it. For a minimal fee you can practice weeknights there.

Is there a class for a Ninja 250 to run? Looked like mostly Supermotos.

It's a bit of a trek for me, but it would be fun to check it out. We have a track-able (beater) Ninja 250.

USAIR has a private owner now. Been going there every year since 2011. Still in great condition, at least if you compare it to the RA motorplex. That damn place makes my sphincter hurt from clenching too much. Different levels of traction everywhere.

Northwoods GP used to run a 250 road class at USAIR, along with normal supermoto and mini classes, but I think they died off. Holy crap would it be awesome to have some real Ultralight racing there. I wish someone could pull that together.

I have not run a baby ninja yet at USAIR, it's just been 2 or 3 supermotos I've owned. I'm excited to try it out.

Is there a class for a Ninja 250 to run? Looked like mostly Supermotos.

It's a bit of a trek for me, but it would be fun to check it out. We have a track-able (beater) Ninja 250.

Wisconsin Mini Racing League kind of took over when North Woods GP left the scene. They had a Ninja250 class and the track was well suited for it. Check WMRL on Facebook

Hey what are your thoughts on the ebc HH sintered brakes ? I'm going to my first track day on the 300 in two months and I ordered those

Hey what are your thoughts on the ebc HH sintered brakes ? I'm going to my first track day on the 300 in two months and I ordered thoseFeel free to wait for the OP's opinion, but the most common response I've seen on this forum is that the Vesrahs are preferable, and both are probably overkill for most riders. Your personal tastes will be a bigger factor than the pads themselves in this case.

EBC HH are good enough for me so far, I haven't tried the Vesrahs yet (I think, I've raced other peoples bikes that may have had them) but I also don't rely on braking to make my time. I can lift the rear with the EBCs so they're good on stopping power

I'll be trying the Vesrahs at some point this season

Feel free to wait for the OP's opinion, but the most common response I've seen on this forum is that the Vesrahs are preferable, and both are probably overkill for most riders. Your personal tastes will be a bigger factor than the pads themselves in this case.

You'll hear a lot of people say EBC HH pads suck. But actually there are 4 different kinds of HH pads and some are pretty good. Plain or (sintered) are the worst. The good ones are extreme Pro (also called EPFA) which is considered a track day pad, the Grand Prix (GPFA) which are considered full race pads. Both are fade free brakes but they have different levels of friction. GPFA pads have super high friction. But on bikes with good brakes, a lot of people prefer the EPFA because they more easily modulated with lever pressure. On supersports, GPFA will lift the rear wheel with a single finger pull. Riders who trail brake a lot would end up sliding down the asphalt on their face if they grab slightly too much lever with GP pads. I use EPFA's on my 675R triumphs.

But the 300 ninja doesn't qualify as good brakes. They are super weak, and the more friction a pad has the better. (at least for people who can't upgrade the caliper to stay supersport legal) EPFA are available for the 300's crusty old caliper design but not the GP. (as far as I could find) EP pads aren't going fade on the 300, but they are going to require high lever pressure. If GP pads were available, I would have tried them. But the Vesrah pads have a nice high initial bike that works well with the ninja brakes. From what I hear SV650 riders like them for that reason too.

Ham fisted newbie street riders would probably do ok with base model HH or EPFA. Go fast guys aren't going to like those options on the 300.

Now the other day I saw a European seller who claimed to have GPFA for the 300. Might be worth a try if really available.

All IMHO and opinions may very per rider.

I liked the EBC pads, but I like my Vesrah SRJL pads better.

Ok cool thanks for the tips, and ya I got the HH sintered ones haha. I only have 2 days at the track so I won't be pushing any limits soon , still learning

Blackhawk Farms a couple days ago.

http://zaphaudio.com/temp/BHF_05-15-2016_John3a.jpg

http://zaphaudio.com/temp/BHF_05-15-2016_John2a.jpg

Some great info on this thread.
In OZ, I believe we run similar rules to the World Supersport 300 class.
Engine mods limited to airfilter, exhaust system, PCV/tune,
Fork internals and shock are open.
Brakes can only change the pads, lines, and discs (same material).

I’ve got the single tube Ohlins shock. (Saw a modified TTX on the winners bike)
Forks are revalved. Seem ok. Especially at this stage. Strongly considering K-Tech cartridges.

I believe K-Tech at both ends is becoming the favored set up. Due to their results in the World Championship SS300 class.

I’m getting some, aggressive, Ferado race pads from Braktech. They have custom ordered them from Italy.

Everyone uses Pirelli Supercorsa SCs in the series that allows them. Limited to 2 sets per meeting. They are insane tires. (Insane grip, insanely short life, insanely expensive.) The Bridgestone guy claims Brigstone are releasing a competitive tire very soon R11? Which should be considerably cheaper. Some series only allow lower spec tires for cost reasons.

I need a lot more practice. (Some more skill and bravery wouldn’t go astray either)

Very Nice Indeed!

Looks great