Before you guys throw links at me, I HAVE indeed read the wiki on frame sliders. :)

I am stumped as to which I should pick because of the following reasons:

1. I have zero mechanical skill/knowledge, so while Shogun seems to be the absolute best protection, I would probably wreck my bike (or my hands) during the install process.

2. I anticipate that my drops will be at low or no speed (mostly no), so would the Intuitives suffice, or is it always best to prepare for the worst? In which case, see point #1.

3. I live in Canada, so shipping costs and brokerage (if the vendor uses UPS or Fedex) come into play. Brokerage is INSANE -- I've paid $120 extra for a $300 package before. If any Canucks would be able to recommend a vendor that does not use a courier for shipping, it would be splendid.

The Shogun sliders seem to be the most popular due to their design and easy install. There is a DIY here on the forum that walks through it. I plan to put these on my bike soon.

EASY install? I looked through some install instructions (http://www.moto911.com/pdf/750-4119.pdf?osCsid=12cb4c73fc35484186399293364769b3) and was utterly lost, actually. I'm not kidding when I say I have no mechanical aptitude.

so, what are your plans to get it installed once you buy it?

I either have to take the easier route and do Intuitive or Sato sliders, or I guess I will need to pay someone to install Shogun.

You might want to consider the Shogun crash kit and order from Bayside Performance (http://www.baysideperformance.ca/). The shipping you save might offset the cost of having someone install them for you if you are unsure about doing it yourself.

The crash kit is not much more than the sliders themselves and will give you swingarm spools for a stand / protection and the bar ends as well.

no matter which sliders you select, you will need some degree of mechanical skill to install it. Have you looked over the install of both of these kits? They both require you to get fairly deep into your bike to do so. Are you willing to learn (and possibly damage something in the process) or are you too gun shy to even consider installing these yourself?

if you are going to have someone else install it, it doesn't matter which you get. it should be a straightforward job with anyone w/ the tools and experience. in this case, I'd suggest the shoguns.

I would not call the installation process for the Intuitives easy. There are a few tricks that are shown in the DIY that definitely help, but I still wouldn't call it easy. If you're not mechanically inclined then you should plan on getting a friend who is to help, or take it to a shop, for whichever slider you choose.

EASY install? I looked through some install instructions (http://www.moto911.com/pdf/750-4119.pdf?osCsid=12cb4c73fc35484186399293364769b3) and was utterly lost, actually. I'm not kidding when I say I have no mechanical aptitude.

I just looked at this again and noticed the installer's hands. Awesome ink.

Ok, back on topic...

I just installed the Intuitive sliders on my bike a couple of weeks ago. My opinion is that taking the plastics off was more difficult. After that, the only other snag was rotating the offsets to the correct position to have the sliders line up to the opening of the fairings. (I cheated and snapped photos through the openings of the fairings to make matching them up easier)

I'm confused where people are having trouble lining there Intuitive sliders? I plan on ordering mines this weekend.

Jessica,

Mechanical aptitude requirements are fairly low for the Shogun kit. A few tools will be required. I think the most helpful thing you will find is an extra pair of hands. Surely, you have some riding guy buddy / mentor that would be happy to lend some time and take pride in helping you cut your teeth with the tools...right?

My Shogun kit install only took me 2 hrs start to finish including cutting out the sprocket cover. If you don't have a rear stand, get one, you'll want one later ($50). Harbor Freight will have all the tools you need, including an angle grinder w/ cutting disk & a file for less than $50.

Two hours at the shop will run you $120-$130, and will still run some risk of damaging your bike.

I say, go with the Shogun and find a friend/coworker/dad/uncle/etc. to help you out. It's totally doable.

Kudos on reading the wiki.

Check the recent thread in tech, guy dropped his bike 0 mph on the side, and the Intuitive frame slider tab bent and almost hit the block, with just the weight of the bike. They're crap.

Buy once, cry once, and DO IT RIGHT with the Shogun sliders, if you absolutely MUST have sliders.

Ok here is my first post....I'm glad if it helps a fellow Canuck!:thumbup:

If your considering Shoguns, I'd highly recommend Bayside Performance's Vancouver branch. The service was great and shipment to TO was reasonable. There is a bit of a price premium over some US based outfits, but when you consider that there is no chance of any Custom duties it is the way to go.

As to installing the sliders, I think that two hours and torque wrench is all you need (a couple of deep sockets help as well!). The hardest part I encountered was getting just the right jack pressure to allow the engine bolts to easily slide out (too high or too low will cause binding!).

The part that I feared the most when reviewing the instructions was the cutting part of the "no-cut" sliders. It turned out that this was super easy :) because the drive sprocket cover is made of a very soft alumium casting. It cuts like butter ....no need for a Dremel. Far more control can be obtained with a hack saw, a file and a little bit of patience. It turned out to be so easy that I "modified" the Shogun recommended cutting pattern to much closer fitting design. I can send a pattern if your interested.

3206

The only thing not covered in the Shogun instructions was the alignment of the shifter collar on to the shifter spindle. If you look real close you'll see that Kawasaki put a punch indentation in each of these parts. These indentations should be aligned on reassembly to insure the correct geometry between the footpeg and the shifter.

Hope this helps!

Jessica, your main concern is dropping at stops, correct? Do I remember from another thread that you're vertically challenged like I am, and worried about maintaining control at stops and possibly causing damage? Why don't you get the bike and have it lowered from the start, and since you'll probably take off the plastics to do this anyway, leave them off and ride her naked for a bit... that way if you do drop, you won't damage the plastics. Then if you still feel like you need sliders, make your decision at that time...


ETA: welcome KK! It's great to see you jumping in to help!

Jessica, your main concern is dropping at stops, correct? Do I remember from another thread that you're vertically challenged like I am, and worried about maintaining control at stops and possibly causing damage? Why don't you get the bike and have it lowered from the start, and since you'll probably take off the plastics to do this anyway, leave them off and ride her naked for a bit... that way if you do drop, you won't damage the plastics. Then if you still feel like you need sliders, make your decision at that time...

This is an option... But again I will have to get the parts from somewhere and pay someone to do it. My boyfriend rides, but he is actually really new as well (got his first bike a couple weeks ago). He hasn't had to make any adjustments or additions to his bike.

Just reading what mlc wrote about "alignment of the shifter collar on to the shifter spindle" makes no sense to me! I don't know where those things are. I really don't think I could pull it off. Thank you for the Bayside Performance recommendations though -- it looks like a good site, and there are some other things I want to pick up as well.

This is a really stupid question, but is dropping a naked bike damaging to the engine or other things? I would rather crack plastic than warp the gas tank, for example...

Hey Talonne,

Don't let that let the words I've chosen to describe parts intimidate you!

I’ve used the terms “shift collar” & “shift spindle” where Shogun uses the words “shift linkage” and “shift shaft” repectively (refer to steps #3 & #11 in the Shogun instructions).

It was my first modification to the bike and I thought the product was fairly well thought-out and reasonably easy to install (e.g. I had zero alignment issues between the slider frame and the engine mounts or the slider and the bodywork). I am fairly confident most folks could do the Shogun installation if they have (or have access to) a rear stand and an extra pair of hands.

Fortunately I have not put the sliders to the test yet, but I figure the chances are fair that at some point I can tell you how they work as I am a new rider (I believe that I read the statistic that 50% of new riders drop their bikes within the first year….and there was another incredible stat. on the percentage of all riders that have bikes tip over at slow or stopped speeds). If you have been shopping the used bike market you may have already noticed the amount of bikes with dinged tanks!

mlc: I didn't understand the Shogun instructions either. :( I really do not know the parts of a motorcycle, so there is the first problem...

The only person I know that is mechanically savvy with motorcycles is a 3 hour drive away, and I'm definitely not ready to make that kind of journey on the bike...

Who should I go to, to get the Shogun set installed? The dealership? A mechanic somewhere?

Why not inquire at the dealership you're picking the bike up from if they would install it at a reduced rate as part of the bike purchase?

Talonne, baysideperfomance.ca sells the shogun slider and crash kits for the ninja 250. They are situated in BC. Of course they are a bit more than the US but would be cheaper than paying duties, international shipping, and conversion of USD to CAD. I've seen a couple of dealer in the Calgary area that sold parts online, i'll try to find them and you could save on shipping by picking it up at the store.

I found the following online store from Calgary, AB. You can always call and ask if they carry the sliders if not they may be able to get them.

http://www.blackfootonline.com/

Blue Raven: Blackfoot is where I will be getting my bike from! :) Unfortunately, I've already inquired as to whether they can get sliders in, but it seems their suppliers don't carry them. I will buy from BaysidePerformance.

The guy I talked to kind of gave me an iffy answer, as to whether they can install sliders for me... He said they could "offer some guidance" for the install...

Jessica, in the wiki, I did a DIY for the roaring toyz lowering kit - it was really easy to install even without instructions (they don't include any with the kit :eek: ) so look through it and see if it's something you think you could do. The worst part is trying to get over the fear of messing something up when you do the work - and if you get into it and get stuck, that's why we're here :)

noche_caliente: I think I could handle the front, but not the rear... I really have ZERO experience with this stuff.

Honestly, for me aside from trying to get the darn bolt loose on the rear, it was much easier than the front *shrug* You just take out two bolts, swap the two links, and replace the bolts - it really is quite simple...

I am pretty clumsy... LOL. I'd probably drop the bike trying to hold it up with jacks...

A question though... What is your inseam length? I'm just wondering how much the 1" improved things for you. :)

my inseam is around 29". I could get one foot flat with my tippy toes touching on the other side, or almost to the ball on both sides.... I *could* manage it, but I didn't feel very confident doing so... after lowering and even adding a corbin seat which pushes your legs out wider, I can flat foot on both sides with my SMX4 boots and even stand up off of the seat a little bit... the biggest difference though was in confidence....

I wish i was in Alberta so i could help you, i don't have money to go this year but if it changes i will let you know. One piece of advice if and when you decide to do maintenance or work on your bike use a rear stand not jacks. Lowering the rear is very easy, the front not so much cause it's hard to control how much the forks go down and once they go down it very hard to bring them back up. Ask me how i know. I have a 28" inseam and lowered the front and the rear 1" and had my seat redone with 1" foam instead of 2" stock and my feet are flat on the ground which helps alot to balance the bike.