Now I know this might sound dumb but I need to make sure I didn't botch this.

So 3500miles have come and gone on my bike and now its time for the move to synthetic. So I drain, change the filter+orings, put everything back and dandy.

Then using the ninja250 wiki I put about 1.5quarts (~1.5L) of the synthetic oil into the engine and let it run for a minute or so.

Now reading the wiki it says have your oil at the upper limit of the sight glass but it never mentions if the engine is running or not (n00b question) and whether its on the center stand or level.

Currently my sight glass when level (someone sitting on it holding it straight up) is full. Its a bit over the top of the max level mark with the engine off and level. But when I turn the engine on it drops to a lower 1/3 or even less.

So did I put too little or too much? Should I be checking when level+engine on or off? In total I've use 1.7/2.0 Quarts I bought according to the nifty gauge on the side of the bottles. I've read the engine takes 1.9L (says so where you put new oil in).

I took a long 15 minute ride during which I got the engine warmed up and did a few rev limit gear changes and then came home the oil level was at the top with the engine off.

Thanks for your help and hope I'm not freaking out!!
:thumbup:

oil level should be checked with the bike off after it's been run for a couple of minutes after an oil change.

Bike should be on a level surface and vertical.

have you checked the oil change DIY on this site for info? :rolleyes:

From the sound of it, you have too much oil.

Hey kkim - long time man.

Actually I was using the ninja250.org wiki for this information. I guess I can drain a little bit so that when its level and vertical and OFF it should be in the upper half right?

So I'll just go now and drain a bit out via the bolt.

Hey, Mesh... good to see you back.

The best way to correct for an overfilled crankcase (ask me how I know :rolleyes:) is to loosen the drain bolt slowly until oil starts dripping out. Keep draining some out, then check the level, if it's good, tighten the bolt back up... if not, drain a bit more. Oil pan under the drain bolt to catch the draining oil, of course.

Ok.. I've held off on draining cuz this is what I see now. The max/min lines are drawn. I see with the engine off and the bubble at the top is above the max line.

http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/3866/oilsightglass.th.png (http://img25.imageshack.us/i/oilsightglass.png/)

If you see a bubble, you should be fine.

Chances are, once you ride for a bit, the level will drop. In the past I have put a bit less than 1.5 quarts and thought I overfilled too, then rode a while and ended up putting another .25 to .5 quarts in to top it off.

Ok Nice. Thanks - I'm so glad I don't have to do that again. I've also heard that the filter eventually retains a certain amount of the oil. I guess in the next few days I'll keep an eye out.

As long as the oil isn't above the max line with the engine off and the bike flat and verticle your safe(assuming that you've run your engine to allow some oil into the filter,like you did) it doesn't take much oil to put it over the top of that line...but as long as your under there should be no problem of bubbling
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As long as the oil isn't above the max line with the engine off and the bike flat and verticle your safe(assuming that you've run your engine to allow some oil into the filter,like you did) it doesn't take much oil to put it over the top of that line...but as long as your under there should be no problem of bubbling
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But it is a bit over the max line with the engine off. Tomorrow I guess I can drain a smidge out.

Like I said...once the oil gets to the sight glass any little drop will make it go up. So if its just a tiny tiny tiny bit...you should be fine. Cant see Kawi making that max line at the exact max level...im sure they leave a drop of wiggle room. If you wanna play it safe you can drain a bit out...which is probably what I would do(doesnt make it right) but you should be ok

But it is a bit over the max line with the engine off. Tomorrow I guess I can drain a smidge out.

And it is completely vertical, right? NOT leaning on the kickstand?

Did I miss part of your story? If you drained the oil out, plus changed the filter, you couldn't possibly have over filled it with 1.5L of oil. Our bikes hold 1.9L (2 quarts) of oil.

Edit: I just re-read the end of your message. Maybe you have like .1L too much oil?

Edit of Edit: did you really wait 3500 miles to change your oil for the first time? :doh:

he probably bought it used :confused:

And it is completely vertical, right? NOT leaning on the kickstand?

Did I miss part of your story? If you drained the oil out, plus changed the filter, you couldn't possibly have over filled it with 1.5L of oil. Our bikes hold 1.9L (2 quarts) of oil.

Edit: I just re-read the end of your message. Maybe you have like .1L too much oil?

Edit of Edit: did you really wait 3500 miles to change your oil for the first time? :doh:
I drained out a bit and now its at the max line with the engine off with the bike on level ground and vertical.

No I didn't wait till 3500miles to change the oil just this it the first time I did it. The previous three two times were done by the dealership as part of their extended warranty package or something or other that the original owner bought from them.
he probably bought it used :confused:
I did buy the bike used with 8 miles on it. An old man bought it thinking he could reclaim his youth but he couldn't keep his balance and his wife kicked his ass for it too.

I did buy the bike used with 8 miles on it. An old man bought it thinking he could reclaim his youth but he couldn't keep his balance and his wife kicked his ass for it too.

Sucks for him...good for you :thumbup:

It's better to have too little oil than too much.

Hey didn't wanna start new thread, but the place who filled my oil the other day filled it so when my bike is upright the oil sight thingy is completely filled. Only when tilted maybe 15-20 degrees will i see air in the sight. Will I be fine to drive it back to the place (maybe 20 miles away)? Thanks
Trey

EDIT: or should I drain asap?

It would be better to take some out.. do you have a catch pan and tools?

It would be better to take some out.. do you have a catch pan and tools?

Ill have to ride it to my parents house ~5 miles away.

do you have the tool kit that came with the bike? there should be a wrench inside it that will fit the drain plug.

do you have the tool kit that came with the bike? there should be a wrench inside it that will fit the drain plug.

negatory, the previous owner didnt have **** to give me except the title. I will be using my own wrenches etc

Whats the proper way to dispose of oil btw??

catch it, store it, then recycle when you have a large enough container filled to make it worthwhile to run to the collection center.

loosen the drain plug a bit. loosen the plug slowly until oil starts dripping out while keeping an upward pressure on the drain plug. have the bike sitting as upright as possible and watch the site glass as you drain a bit of oil out. drain pan under the plug, of course. once you see the level drop within the window upper and lower level lines, retighten the drain plug.

catch it, store it, then recycle when you have a large enough container filled to make it worthwhile to run to the collection center.

loosen the drain plug a bit. loosen the plug slowly until oil starts dripping out while keeping an upward pressure on the drain plug. have the bike sitting as upright as possible and watch the site glass as you drain a bit of oil out. drain pan under the plug, of course. once you see the level drop within the window upper and lower level lines, retighten the drain plug.

thanks mate! :thumbup:

BTW- do this while the engine is relatively cool/cold so you don't have hot oil running down your hand.

BTW- do this while the engine is relatively cool/cold so you don't have hot oil running down your hand.

ok so go to my rents house, let it cool, then proceed

new gen oil change
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10780

pre gen is almost the same except the drain plug is directly into the engine case on the bottom.

Hello all. (hope I am posting this in the right place?)

First a quick history, then my question.....

Had my 2007 250 for a few weeks now. Put about 200 miles on it so far. Now has about 3900 miles on it. Runs great!!!!! Previous owner bought new and says he had oil changed about 11 months ago, and only rode about 100 miles since then. Bike was stored in his garage on a battery tender. He said he would start it and run it a few blocks about once a month to keep it running before he sold it to me.

Think when I get home from vacation this weekend I am gonna attempt my first oil, and filter change. Book says torque to 14.5 FP. I do not currently own a torque wrench. So my question is should I go buy one? If not; what is rule of thumb on tightening with a standard ratchet so I don't over, or under tighten?

(I do feel this question must have been asked and answered somewhere here on this forum; but could not find it. I would be happy if someone could answer or shoot me a link to where it was already answered.) Thanks everyone.

Buy a torque wrench to do the change. If you are not mechanically inclined and worked with tools most of your life you will maybe strip the bolt/filter base. Years of millwrighting you seem to get a general feel when bolts are tight and tight enough to overcome the torque situation. Princess Auto in Canada and Harbor Freight in the US has them at a reasonable prices.

Thanks! I think I saw one at Harbor Freight for around $20 that went to 200 Foot inches. Am I correct in believing 14.5 foot pounds is the same thing as 174 foot inches?

I think your concern of my stripping the bolt is well founded. I am a bit nervous at the idea of causing a major screw up on a simple task of tightening a bolt.

Buy a torque wrench to do the change. If you are not mechanically inclined and worked with tools most of your life you will maybe strip the bolt/filter base. Years of millwrighting you seem to get a general feel when bolts are tight and tight enough to overcome the torque situation. Princess Auto in Canada and Harbor Freight in the US has them at a reasonable prices.

You may want the 3/8 inch drive torque wrench, not the 1/2 inch one. The filter bolt is one you definitely don't want to screw up as the thread is inside the engine casing. Expensive repair.

this is what I use...
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-drive-click-stop-torque-wrench-807.html

like has been mentioned... use a torque wrench until you have years of experience to know what 14.5 ft/lbs feels like. :)

I caution you... practice on how to use the torque wrench properly once you get it before ever trying to tighten something important with it to save yourself an "Oh $hit" moment! :eek:

Shouldn't be too big of a deal, but if you use the 250 wiki website for info make sure you are looking at the new gen section. The main contents page takes you to information for the pre gen, I guess they don't have enough new-gen articles to give it its own contents page. Oil change info between the two is slightly different but not enough to ruin your bike if you follow the pre-gen oil change instructions.

Although you aren't supposed to check the oil with the engine running, you should be able to infer that the oil level will be lower when it is running since the oil is no longer all resting in the pan but up in the engine.

Props to you for doing your own work on your bike. :thumbup:

Thanks for all the great advice. I will carry that item number with me to the Harbor Freight store.

Also plan to pick up a bottle of the Seafoam additive I seen mentioned numerous times here.

On the chinese scooter forums I followed before purchasing the Ninja the fuel/oil additive of choice was "Marvel Mystery Oil" (which I have). Anyone know if that would work as well or similarly to the Seafoam?




this is what I use...
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-drive-click-stop-torque-wrench-807.html

like has been mentioned... use a torque wrench until you have years of experience to know what 14.5 ft/lbs feels like. :)

I caution you... practice on how to use the torque wrench properly once you get it before ever trying to tighten something important with it to save yourself an "Oh $hit" moment! :eek:

Take a bolt and put it in a vise and then set the torque wrench for a setting, put the socket on the bolt and pull the wrench till you feel and hear the click so you know what to feel/hear for. Oil filter bolt and drain bolt on a pre gen is 17mm and torqued to 14.5 ft lbs.

If using MMO or Seafoam, both will do the same thing by keeping the fuel system clean of deposits. You don't need alot because you are only using it in a small fuel tank.

oil level should be checked with the bike off after it's been run for a couple of minutes after an oil change.

Bike should be on a level surface and vertical.

have you checked the oil change DIY on this site for info? :rolleyes:

From the sound of it, you have too much oil.

Is that only after a fresh oil change, to get it in the filter? Because I'm due for another and I just discovered that it's somehow higher than it was when I last checked (checked several times since the last change and it was always at the max line exactly, now, it's well over). My coolant level was low, leading me to believe that coolant may be getting in the oil. I checked when it was somewhat cooled down because I was told that oil needs time to drain back down and cool before a proper level can be determined, which seems to run counter to what you are telling us... unless you are just talking about getting it in the filter.

If you go to the official Kawasaki site and go to manuals and enter your VIN and go to specifications you will get the official spec sheet for your model year. For 2007 it clearly states " level on center stand, wait 5 minutes, middle of window". Should you do this, when you pop it off the stand and level it carefully it will be still clearly visible but pretty close to the top of the window.