Purspeed's "Throttle Zip-Tie Mod"

Do you want to have WOT (wide open throttle) with less twist of the wrist?

Then this modification is for you! :thumbup:


Purpose: To increase the travel of the throttle cable along a larger diameter throttle tube so that the rider achieves wide open throttle without having to twist the throttle all the way back.

Time it takes for mod: 15 minutes or less

Difficulty: easy

Cost: ~ $2.00 or less


What you will need
(1) zip tie about 1/4 wide. Buy at Home Depot or hardware store

(2) superglue

(3) screwdriver (use the proper phillips head to avoid damaging the delicate screw)

(4) a file or sandpaper to sand down the edges of the zip tie

(5) alcohol pads or simple green to clean the area for a professional install



This is what you do

A. Cut a zip tie 3" in length.

B. File down both edges of the zip tie (on the ribbed side) to a thin edge. (rough up the back side along the edges, too, to get a better surface for the glue)

C. Unscrew the throttle cable housing. Then, clean the white plastic area with an alcohol pad or Simple Green so that the glue will properly adhere. (now is the time to clean this area and lube the throttle cables)

D. Now super glue an end of the zip-tie to your throttle tube (as pictured) and do the same for the other end.

E. Re-assemble the housing (as pictured) and carefully thread in the screws. Tighten very gently and snug. You do not need a lot of force to keep the screws in place.

F. Check to ensure that there is no binding of the throttle cables and that everything is functioning correctly.

That's it! :D

Below are a few pictures of the assembly going back together. If you look at the pictures carefully, you will be able to orient the (2) cables properly in the housing. Then, you simply screw the housing together and you are done.


If the mod is done properly, you will notice that it takes significantly less twist of the wrist to get the throttle open.

Since the 250's do not output a lot of juice, this mod can be quite helpful, especially on freeways or riding nice and hard.

I just finished completing the mod only moments ago, so I will do a review on my test ride today.:cool:

what I like best about a quicker throttle is that you are able to go from idle to WOT with a single twist of the wrist instead of having to "regrab" the throttle when you get close to WOT.

great DIY.

that's an interesting fix/mod. took me a few to figure out what you were actually doing. but i understood it and i'm lookin forward to your review after your ride.

I would love to do this, is it reversible?

sure is... just take the glued zip tie back off. if it tears up the throttle tube when you do so, I've seen stock throttle tubes for cheap on ebay. :)

There were two things on the Ninjette that I thought were a PITA. One was the lazy throttle response--a definite linkage problem. Purespeed, you solved the problem. Sure makes a difference. The second problem involves checking the oil on the 08-09 Ninjettes. Since they are not equipped with a centre stand, one needs to put the bike up on a "Pit Bull" to check the oil level in that little window. The other alternative is to have a buddy check the window while you hold the bike steady.

Nice DIY! /Moved to the pre-gen tech section, but also linked to it from main DIY index. Purspeed - thanks for all of the time and effort that went into this. Ping me if you start to work on another fun one, so I can point you to how to get this done in the wiki. All of these DIY's and similar type threads will be migrated over there at some point, so it will be an easier transition if as new ones are created they are just there in the first place.

theoretically to increase the perceived torque responce, you could add a second layer to the top half of the zip tie, this will increase the percentage of throttle given for the second half of twist travel.

true, but you have only so much room to play with inside that throttle housing before things start rubbing and stop turning... ask me how I know? :rolleyes:

feel free to experiment, though... you may strike upon the right combination of zip tie thickness and space allowed to make it work. :)

i think i might do this as soon as i get more comfortable on the bike, for now i think i need to adjust my throttle play :/ feel like there too much space in there where it's not pulling.

Thanks all for the compliments. I hope that you find the DIY useful.

Alex: I'll be sure to give you head's up next time so that we can coordinate the wiki-thingy. ;)


I got back from a 1.25 hour ride under various conditions and speeds. Overall, the throttle effort and length of twist has been improved by 35%-40%.

What does this mean in the real world? You use less effort/energy to get the bike up and running. Since there is little useable power under 7,000 RPM's, this mod helps you get into the useable range of power much more quickly.

Acceleration is noticeably improved. I was able to consistently achieve a top speed in the +20MPH over my usual top speed. Usually, you are forced to re-grip the throttle to achieve this speed, and doing so is very hazardous.

Effort is about 35-45% less and throttle control is significantly better. So much so, that I would recommend everyone to consider doing this mod. It makes riding the bike much more pleasant and enables it to hold its own on the road.

My wrist as of now is not hurting. Usually, after a long ride on the freeway, my wrist gets painful. Again, this mod means that you don't need to be a contorsionist in order to reach WOT.

If 1 zip is good, then 2 must be better, right? Well, I was so pleased with the results that I ended up adding another zip tie to the first one. I simply glued it over the original zip tie and repeated the instructions above.

The result? Not sure. There is a bit of binding, but my thottle was binding anyway. Sometimes it doesn't seem to bind. But, since it's late now, I cannot take it for a test ride.

I did end up revving it real good with the double zip tie mod. My observations? It takes MUCH less effort to go WOT. Much less. I like it.

Now, whether I will have any problems (such as the ones KKim hinted at), I will see this week. I will report back on what I find. ;)

You guys are going to like this mod!

I assume this would work for 08-09, if so i would like to buy an used throttle tube and housing off ebay, and possibly dremel the inside of the housing to allow more room. I hate regripping.

thanks for sharing!

I like it already, thanks for the update. I'm still new to this so i'm afraid I will end up giving it too much throttle if i do this, because I haven't needed WOT at all yet (im either learning really slow, or uncomfortable doing that yet in any gear, prob both).
But even without needing WOT I seem to have trouble finding a comfortable wrist position.

I assume this would work for 08-09, if so i would like to buy an used throttle tube and housing off ebay, and possibly dremel the inside of the housing to allow more room.


Bill, it's not that simple. The thing that drags is the plastic piece that protrudes out into the throttle housing from where the cables enter. I cut mine to allow more room, but they also use that piece as the mechanical throttle stop, so modifying that tube required more adjustment, which you don't really have. You end up with a good amount of throttle slop before the throttle starts affecting the revs. I ended up buying a new pull throttle cable to fix the slop problem as that plastic piece is part of that cable assembly.

PS- watch out... the throttle should snap back cleanly and without any hesitation. Any binding might come back as a stuck throttle at the most inopportune time.

I assume this would work for 08-09, if so i would like to buy an used throttle tube and housing off ebay, and possibly dremel the inside of the housing to allow more room. I hate regripping.

This will work on all Ninja 250's, regardless of year made.

I am not sure what you are trying to do with a used throttle tube, but for this mod, you can simple use your factory tube.

I will do this asap. Bike has been in the shop for 3 weeks :(. Damn bike shop cant get a completion date strait.

PS- watch out... the throttle should snap back cleanly and without any hesitation. Any binding might come back as a stuck throttle at the most inopportune time.

I just checked and the throttle is snapping back relatively quick. It takes a bit getting used to not seeing the throttle twist all the way back like it did before.

@ everyone: The double zip mod means that you go WOT with a little less than 25% twist (compared to over 50% twist factory stock).

I like it already, thanks for the update. I'm still new to this so i'm afraid I will end up giving it too much throttle if i do this, because I haven't needed WOT at all yet (im either learning really slow, or uncomfortable doing that yet in any gear, prob both).
But even without needing WOT I seem to have trouble finding a comfortable wrist position.

Sure thing.

About the mod, if you are new to riding, then do not do this mod. You will know when you are ready to do this mod in about half a year or so of riding.

In reference to finding a comfortable position, it sounds to me that you *may* need to adjust the positions of the clutch lever and brake lever.

You can loosen the bolt on the clutch lever and the two hex screws on the brake lever and slide them inwards, outwards, up and down until you find the perfect fit.

Remember, the back of your hands should be level to the ground and you should be able to rest your index finger comfortably on the brake lever (with closed throttle).

I have adjusted mine (recently) and it made a big difference in minute control over the brake and clutch. Riding is much improved.:thumbup:

Sure thing.

About the mod, if you are new to riding, then do not do this mod. You will know when you are ready to do this mod in about half a year or so of riding.

In reference to finding a comfortable position, it sounds to me that you *may* need to adjust the positions of the clutch lever and brake lever.

You can loosen the bolt on the clutch lever and the two hex screws on the brake lever and slide them inwards, outwards, up and down until you find the perfect fit.

Remember, the back of your hands should be level to the ground and you should be able to rest your index finger comfortably on the brake lever (with closed throttle).

I have adjusted mine (recently) and it made a big difference in minute control over the brake and clutch. Riding is much improved.:thumbup:

Thanks for the suggestions, I'll have to take a look next time I go out. My first thought was that the throttle has too much play (which it might) the manual says 2 -3mm which i havent measured but im sure it seems a bit more than that, and also manuevering around slowly is kinda hard because I feel like im turning the throttle but it seems to travel a bit before it pulls.

But also now that you mention it, the levers seem to be a bit low. I'll have to do some basic fiddling with it.

i really like the zip tie mod though :D, good work, can't wait till im comfortable enough on the bike to try it out

Thanks for the suggestions, I'll have to take a look next time I go out. My first thought was that the throttle has too much play (which it might) the manual says 2 -3mm which i havent measured but im sure it seems a bit more than that, and also manuevering around slowly is kinda hard because I feel like im turning the throttle but it seems to travel a bit before it pulls.

But also now that you mention it, the levers seem to be a bit low. I'll have to do some basic fiddling with it.

i really like the zip tie mod though :D, good work, can't wait till im comfortable enough on the bike to try it out

Your job is to learn good throttle control. You can control the suspension, braking, and a lot of stuff with careful use of the throttle.

The main thing you should become familiar with is the "friction zone." This will assist you in low speed manuevers so that you will look like the CHP with twists and turns at 5 mph.

With the Ninja, it's a little bit more of a challenge due to the sloppy throttle response and carbs and fuel delivery. Fuel always seem to cut out at the most inopportune times.

I noticed that the mod has helped take some of the inconsistencies with slight throttle away. But, I will let you know a bit more over the next few days. ;)

Get those levers adjusted to where they need to be. It helps. A lot.

Good job purspeed :thumbup:. It really is a pain when your on an onramp getting onto a highway and trying to accelerate pretty quickly when you gotta re-grab the throttle. Upsets the whole bike going fast to not accelerating to jumpin on the throttle again.

And what do you know...I just bought a new 600 pack of zip ties the other day :D. Maybe I'll try to green ones to increase the effectiveness of this mod;)

killer mod, and my favorite part is how inexpensive it is to make one of the most important things on the bike better.

fwiw i hear a lot of guys use a yamaha r1/r6 throttle tube as well due to its agressive cam, and this part can be had for like 6 bucks off ebay. seems like cheap insurance to keep your stock tube unmolested with glue and prevent binding up of the throttle cable if you eventually remove the ziptie. Plus im sure the zip tie will eventually get a grove worn into it over time from the stress of the cable. Kyle racing makes one as well specifically for our bikes, but i dont think it's worth the price.

I like this mod a lot!
I have some inquires though!
Your revs at idle speed are the same as before?

Why did you use the "rough" side of the zip tie to touch the cable instead od the smooth one?
I think using the smooth side will make the cable slip faster and also avoid from spoiling.

What do you think?

Good way of doing it, but be careful that there is no binding or your find a stuck throttle. I personally don't think it is worth the risk.

I like this mod a lot!
I have some inquires though!
Your revs at idle speed are the same as before?

Why did you use the "rough" side of the zip tie to touch the cable instead od the smooth one?
I think using the smooth side will make the cable slip faster and also avoid from spoiling.

What do you think?

Revs are the same at idle speed. If they are not, then the install did not go correctly. But, in truth, this mod is difficult to mess up because it is so easy and straightforward.

I used the ribbed side for the cable because that's how I have seen it done before. I haven't given it much thought. If anyone has any answers on this, I'd be interested.

Since mine is already done, perhaps someone else can use the smooth side and see if there is a difference.

Please note that using only 1 zip tie (thickness) works just fine. I put on a second one and experienced some binding. I am in the process of cleaning everything and have already sanded down the edged of the second layer of zip (where it meets the end of the cables) to taper it off and see if this helps with the binding.

I'll post here what I find tonight.

I used the ribbed side for the cable because that's how I have seen it done before. I haven't given it much thought. If anyone has any answers on this, I'd be interested.

Since mine is already done, perhaps someone else can use the smooth side and see if there is a difference.

My guess would be that it was done that way for better adhesion of the zip tie. Since this puts the smooth side down, there are more areas for contact. If it were done the other way, the glue would need to fill each groove for better adhesion.

My guess would be that it was done that way for better adhesion of the zip tie. Since this puts the smooth side down, there are more areas for contact. If it were done the other way, the glue would need to fill each groove for better adhesion.

That sounds logical. If anything, the ribbed side will give the throttle cable less area to rub against, which means less friction and a smaller chance of possible binding.

I just preformed this mod and I have to say I'm impressed. I never did like the slop it had. Shifting to second and third was always a little jerky and rev matching while engine braking was a bit troublesome. The only problem is that I'm much more likely to WOT at every possible opportunity for awhile, dropping my MPG significantly. :D

Once again, Ninjette.org FTW! Muchos gracie, Purspeed. :thumbup:

BTW, definitely rough up the smooth side for better glue adhesion. The sanding wheel that came with my Dremel made it a snap.

That sounds logical. If anything, the ribbed side will give the throttle cable less area to rub against, which means less friction and a smaller chance of possible binding.

I just preformed this mod and I have to say I'm impressed. I never did like the slop it had. Shifting to second and third was always a little jerky and rev matching while engine braking was a bit troublesome. The only problem is that I'm much more likely to WOT at every possible opportunity for awhile, dropping my MPG significantly. :D

Once again, Ninjette.org FTW! Muchos gracie, Purspeed. :thumbup:

BTW, definitely rough up the smooth side for better glue adhesion. The sanding wheel that came with my Dremel made it a snap.

From what I understand, a ribbed surface gives better grip. That's why nature gave us fingerprints. But, at the same time, there's a reason why race machines use slicks...

Purspeed's Double Zip Tie Mod

1. Do all of the steps above.

2. Glue on another zip tie right on top of the first.

3. Grab a Dremel tool and use a circular grinding bit. What you are going to do is to grind down the areas starting at both ends and moving inwards about 3/4" (.75") to a nice taper. The zip ties should look like a cresent moon shape when viewed from the side.

If you grind this properly, then you should not experience binding. Do not be afraid to remove material. As a matter of fact, you will be grinding away most of the second zip tie (at the area close to both of the ends).

Why the grinding? Because it prevents binding! (yes, it rhymes...:)






Now, I have not ridden the bike, but I have spent 5-8 minutes revving the throttle to ensure a bind free solution.

If you just glue the second zip on top of the first, then you will certainly have binding. For this to work, you have to grind down the second zip tie so that it tapers off nice and gently towards the ends (where the cables are hooked into the plastic grip).

It appears that the thickness along the body (away from the edges) is what takes up the slack. So, when you grind away toward the ends, the removed material doesn't defeat the purpose. You still only need 1/4 twist to get WOT (Wide Open Throttle).

I will test ride the bike again tomorrow and post my findings.

Looking foward to what you find out. I have a second zip tie standing by. :)

Looking foward to what you find out. I have a second zip tie standing by. :)

I rode for about a half hour with the second zip, but there was significant binding. I then proceeded to experiment by grinding and re-installing. I did so a dozen times or so until I found the right combo. Now, I have only revved the bike, I have not ridden it yet. But, come tomorrow, I should discover if it is, indeed, bindfree.

Regarding performance, I can tell you know that it is far superior to the single zip mod. Although it takes a bit more effort to twist the grip, you comfortably go WOT with only a quarter turn.

I was able to almost wheelie in first and second gear. I have never been able to do that before. Since you are removing a big obstacle (having to wind baaaaaack the throttle and regrip and wind baaaack), you achieve maximum HP's almost instantly.

One word of caution, the bike will require MUCH more throttle control because a smaller movement will result in much greater responsiveness.

The double zip tie mod should only be performed by more experienced riders.

Used a significant amount of silicone grease---no binding.

Just did the single tie mod last weekend on my pre-gen, and the bike has been an absolute blast to ride since then. I was starting to get a little bored with it, but the added challenge of having to be more precise with throttle positioning has been not only fun, but rewarding as well.

I went on a couple rides today and found that when it was really hot outside, there was the slightest binding. But, then again, I had problems with binding BEFORE the actual mod, so it is still a little difficult to attribute the binding to the mod or some other reason.

But, the bike is much more fun to ride. There is also much less fatigue on the hand.

When I rode it this afternoon, there was no binding and in general, there doesn't seem to be too much binding that I noticed.

I'm going to keep it the way it is. I like it and it works for me. I may add some lube or grind a bit more if I think it needs it.

PS- if you want to experiment with shape design, you might want to consider using some plastic PVC pipe. I think I experimented with some cut off sections and worked on getting it to slip over the tube throttle "cam" portion. much easier to work on a cam profile than a couple of zip ties glued together. :)

PS- if you want to experiment with shape design, you might want to consider using some plastic PVC pipe. I think I experimented with some cut off sections and worked on getting it to slip over the tube throttle "cam" portion. much easier to work on a cam profile than a couple of zip ties glued together. :)

Interesting approach. So, you would suggest grinding down the PVC pipe instead?

What about the Yamaha plastic grip...will this be a directly replacement? I read that it has an aggressive profile.

Yeah, just find the size pipe that will fit the portion where you now have the zip tie glued on.... sorry I forget what diameter pipe the is (1.5"?), but it was close.

bah... here's some pics instead. :D

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SoJPjRT1ALI/AAAAAAAAF2k/X0aDqA8kmMg/s640/DSC05442-1.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SoJPkJqfmxI/AAAAAAAAF2o/G0v0mxjDeSU/s640/DSC05443-1.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SoJPk63gf5I/AAAAAAAAF2s/rFkDFfkOeuM/s640/DSC05444-1.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SoJPloizAUI/AAAAAAAAF2w/qZCSGrDeEwQ/s640/DSC05445-1.JPG

Good pic's, Kkim.

I actually rode for about 1.25 hours again today and there was no binding. By taping down the edges, you do seem to lose a bit of the bite, but the double zip is still beyond that of a single.

At the same time, it doesn't seem like the R1/R6 throttle tubes make all that much of a difference. The "Purspeed" method (that I got elsewhere) and the "KKim" method seem like the best option for maximum performance vs. dollar.

In reference to finding a comfortable position, it sounds to me that you *may* need to adjust the positions of the clutch lever and brake lever.

You can loosen the bolt on the clutch lever and the two hex screws on the brake lever and slide them inwards, outwards, up and down until you find the perfect fit.

Remember, the back of your hands should be level to the ground and you should be able to rest your index finger comfortably on the brake lever (with closed throttle).

I have adjusted mine (recently) and it made a big difference in minute control over the brake and clutch. Riding is much improved.:thumbup:


But also now that you mention it, the levers seem to be a bit low. I'll have to do some basic fiddling with it.



Get those levers adjusted to where they need to be. It helps. A lot.



K so I think i was completely wrong about my levers being low :o (i guess i didnt really think about it too much when i wrote that),
they might be high? did you lower yours? i feel like if i lower them I can get a better grip on the throttle and more room to roll on with.

So did you lower yours and was i probably wrong about them being a bit low?

You can adjust them to where you are comfortable. I needed to move mine closer to the ground on both my bikes or my wrists hurt.

I like the pvc pipe mod, did you cut a small groove in the pipe for the cable to ride in?

I like the pvc pipe mod, did you cut a small groove in the pipe for the cable to ride in?

no... as long as it's flat, the cable will pull straight. The stock throttle doesn't have a groove and it works fine. :)

K so I think i was completely wrong about my levers being low :o (i guess i didnt really think about it too much when i wrote that),
they might be high? did you lower yours? i feel like if i lower them I can get a better grip on the throttle and more room to roll on with.

So did you lower yours and was i probably wrong about them being a bit low?

As stated above, you can and really should adjust the bike to where everything is comfortable.

Although there is a textbook way to do almost everything, I would simply loosen the fasteners and slide the components fore/aft and laterally to where they work well for you.

Riding a bike is all about the handlebars and precision control, so put those controls where you need them.

Has anyone had an issue with the zip tie coming undone?

I did this mod last nite, and only took a short ride. I like it so far (it's been raining all day).

It was kinda tricky getting the zip tie glued around the curved throttle tube.
Posted via Mobile Device

It was tricky for me too. What I ended up doing was holding one end of the zip tie with a pair of pliers, then wrapping it around in a coil and holding for a few seconds to give it an easy-to-manage bend. Made holding it on the bar until the superglue took hold a lot more easier.

I held it on one side, and after that set, I used a clamp thing.

Took it for a ~40 mile ride today. MUCH easier for a n00b like me to keep speed on the highway.

I held it on one side, and after that set, I used a clamp thing.

Took it for a ~40 mile ride today. MUCH easier for a n00b like me to keep speed on the highway.

hm, im having trouble with keeping speed on highways, having to regrip isnt something i want to do ever.. so i just deal with the uncomfortable position.

idk how i feel about doing a mod like this just yet, but it sounds like it really helps... im at about 500 miles

Instead of using superglue try spray adhesive on the zip-tie, it is sticky, like tape, can be removed with solvents (acetone i.e. fingernail polish), more flexible, easier to handle, more environmentally safe, and will last longer than superglue. Do note, superglue was invented for NASA for the space shuttle ceramic tile heat shield, and has a short bond life. This is why the tiles fall off the shuttle. And in part why the shuttle Columbia burned up upon re-entry. I know someone is going to say it crashed because of ice from the external fuel tank, but if superglue was so strong the tiles would have withstood the ice impact and cracked, and not fallen off. I'm an engineer and do know this kind of stuff.

Do note, superglue was invented for NASA for the space shuttle ceramic tile heat shield, and has a short bond life.

Couldn't be more wrong, Super Glue (Cyanoacylate) has been around for far more years than the space program has been in service:
http://www.supergluecorp.com/history.html

Sorry, I stand corrected, however; I did look up the information again and it was not invented, but used for the ceramic tiles on the shuttle. Again sorry for the mistake.

Has anyone had an issue with the zip tie coming undone?

I did this mod last nite, and only took a short ride. I like it so far (it's been raining all day).

It was kinda tricky getting the zip tie glued around the curved throttle tube.
Posted via Mobile Device

Superglue will work fine if you clean and prep the surfaces properly. Sand down the sides that make contact with the glue.

If you are really worried, just get an epoxy and it'll stick around for a million years or so.

damn I wanna try this but

1) I'm afraid I'll break something new or old.. I already snapped the plastic nub that goes in the handle bar hole when I was trying to put everything back together during my clip-on installation. I had to super glue the nub back

2) My trackday is this Tuesday and I don't wanna take the risk of breaking something before then

decisions decisions...

damn I wanna try this but

1) I'm afraid I'll break something new or old.. I already snapped the plastic nub that goes in the handle bar hole when I was trying to put everything back together during my clip-on installation. I had to super glue the nub back

2) My trackday is this Tuesday and I don't wanna take the risk of breaking something before then

decisions decisions...

Go to your trackday without altering anything since that is what you are accustomed to.

Then, after, do the mod. The more you mod, the better you get at it. Things break all of the time. Sometimes, you'll find broken parts from poor mechanics or owners and fix them. It's all in the fun and experience of trying to obtain perfection, if there is such a thing.

Yeah, just find the size pipe that will fit the portion where you now have the zip tie glued on.... sorry I forget what diameter pipe the is (1.5"?), but it was close.

bah... here's some pics instead. :D

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SoJPjRT1ALI/AAAAAAAAF2k/X0aDqA8kmMg/s640/DSC05442-1.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SoJPkJqfmxI/AAAAAAAAF2o/G0v0mxjDeSU/s640/DSC05443-1.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SoJPk63gf5I/AAAAAAAAF2s/rFkDFfkOeuM/s640/DSC05444-1.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SoJPloizAUI/AAAAAAAAF2w/qZCSGrDeEwQ/s640/DSC05445-1.JPG

KKim,

Is this what you used as a throttle mod on yours?

nope. I have a Kyle quick turn throttle... recommend doing the zip tie mod instead.

soo just an observation. it may seem as if you are using less energy to achieve WOT but if you know even the most basic theorys about how ratio work, if you do this mod to get the throttle valve to open with less travel at the wrist then there is going to be an increased resistance but it will be minimal. the other observation.. a first gen R6 throttle tube is like 7 or 8 bucks at cycle gear and it drops in, it gives you 1/5 of a turn full throttle.

nope. I have a Kyle quick turn throttle... recommend doing the zip tie mod instead.

what's wrong with Kyle? Just price? $90 is a lot...

btw, there's also an insert for sale if you don't feel like doing your own...not sure if it'd work though.
http://www.doublezracing.com/

soo just an observation. it may seem as if you are using less energy to achieve WOT but if you know even the most basic theorys about how ratio work, if you do this mod to get the throttle valve to open with less travel at the wrist then there is going to be an increased resistance but it will be minimal. the other observation.. a first gen R6 throttle tube is like 7 or 8 bucks at cycle gear and it drops in, it gives you 1/5 of a turn full throttle.

Yes, you need to exert a bit more pressure on the throttle. But, it is hardly noticeable, especially when riding. Besides, the extra force makes it feel a little less flimsy, too.:thumbup:

i was doing some thinking and i feel that if anyone does the ziptie method they should not double the last half of the tube. being able to open the throttle very fast at the upper RPM range may be a bad thing for those of you who like to ride hard and lean far the increased "twitchyness" could lead to a power slide if your not careful with your throttle application

i was doing some thinking and i feel that if anyone does the ziptie method they should not double the last half of the tube. being able to open the throttle very fast at the upper RPM range may be a bad thing for those of you who like to ride hard and lean far the increased "twitchyness" could lead to a power slide if your not careful with your throttle application

Hmmmm...is this knowledge gained from riding experience or your theory based on visual imagry based on a highly evolved imagination?

I found the biggest problem with the double zip mod was slight binding. This is something that Kkim warned about.

If it wasn't for the binding, the double zip tie would be the way to go. It makes the throttle response precise.

Look in the throttle housing. There may be a notch that you can file down to clear the thicker zip ties
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i just finished doing this ziptie mod. going out for a test ride right now. played with the throttle no binding so lets see how it does. i swear putting back the casing took me over an hour. it was pissing me off lol

i just finished doing this ziptie mod. going out for a test ride right now. played with the throttle no binding so lets see how it does. i swear putting back the casing took me over an hour. it was pissing me off lol

how many zipties did you use?

i used one ziptie but i didnt file down the ends and the super glue i used wasnt that great. i noticed a difference but im gonna have to redo it sometime later.

i just finished doing this ziptie mod. going out for a test ride right now. played with the throttle no binding so lets see how it does. i swear putting back the casing took me over an hour. it was pissing me off lol

Interesting. Putting it back together should take a few seconds at the most. But, you will have to know how it all goes together and hold down the cable while fitting the housing halves together. You have to squeeze real tight holding them together until you get that top screw screwed in a few times and then you should be good to go.

I'm in the printing business and we do zillions of manuals and stuff. I gotta compliment you on that presentation...not a word is needed, pure visual. Most excellent. And, yeah, I'm gonna do it too.

Yeah, just find the size pipe that will fit the portion where you now have the zip tie glued on.... sorry I forget what diameter pipe the is (1.5"?), but it was close.

bah... here's some pics instead. :D

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SoJPjRT1ALI/AAAAAAAAF2k/X0aDqA8kmMg/s640/DSC05442-1.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SoJPkJqfmxI/AAAAAAAAF2o/G0v0mxjDeSU/s640/DSC05443-1.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SoJPk63gf5I/AAAAAAAAF2s/rFkDFfkOeuM/s640/DSC05444-1.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SoJPloizAUI/AAAAAAAAF2w/qZCSGrDeEwQ/s640/DSC05445-1.JPG

I did this mod on the 08 250R (same thing applies to the pre-gen) with PCV pipe as pictured above. Mine is about 2/3 thick as KKIM pic. which is about 2 zipties. I think I'll take it apart (got another throttle tube of Ebay) and redo it with full thickness. I think it'll work...but I only use 1 pull throttle cable instead of 2. With the second cable in place, it'll bind. So I guess the trick is to remove the second cable. The second cable is there for backup in case the 1st one jams up..but that push cable isn't going to do anything I think if there other one "stuck"...test it out yourself..jam the other one with a plier or something preventing it from retracting...the "push" will do nothing. If anything, you can 1) hit the cut off switch button, or 2) grab the clutch or 3)turn off with the key.
Throttle cable failure without the second push cable is about 0.0001% so weight your risk/benefits wisely :thumbup:

I'm in the printing business and we do zillions of manuals and stuff. I gotta compliment you on that presentation...not a word is needed, pure visual. Most excellent. And, yeah, I'm gonna do it too.

Appreciate the kind words. :)

It's always a bit frustrating when you don't have good install instructions. And pictures are far more telling than words. Video is even better still.

So, when Purspeed does a DIY, it's gonna have all the pictures and info you need! :thumbup:

This looks like a useful mod. I'm thinking about doing the PVC pipe version. Anyone have any suggestions on how I could mount the pvc pipe to a drill so I can 'etch' in a groove/guide - sort of low budget lathe.

A groove isn't needed. look at the stock throttle... there's no groove and the cable is fine. :)

This mod is FANTASTIC! I did the single zip tie and man, what an improvement! I now have no lag....rowing through the gears is now silky smooth and it is really easy to keep the bike in the sweet spot.

I used regular brush-on Krazy glue. Removed the brake lever and both cables, ground/sanded down zip tie, sanded throttle tube, applied a minimal amount of glue and the zip tie held fine.

Why have I been riding my 07 for over 2 years and never heard of this before??

Love it.

A groove isn't needed. look at the stock throttle... there's no groove and the cable is fine. :)
I was considering using that to adjust the throttle pull. Get a length of pvc pipe. Cut a section off, if it's too high for me put a little groove on the next one,..., until I find a height that I like.

had to resurrect this thread...

i have over 48k miles on the 250 and i am thinking of doing this mod but still hesitant because over in the ninja250 forum someone said there is no benefit in regular street riding because of the on and off touchy response...

for those of you that did this awhile ago do you still like the mod?...pros and cons?...

I have the zip tie mod equivalent in a quick turn throttle tube. I love the faster response of the larger diameter throttle.

Good thing about the zip tie mod is that if you don't like it, it's easily reversible.

on/off touchy response??? sounds like the carbs might be set a bit lean to me. :)

thanks for the fast reply kelly...

anybody else?...quick... my hands are getting itchy for this mod...is this good for technical roads and canyons?...

Just try it and see if you like it. It's not like you're tearing the motor down or anything. If it sucks, take the zip tie off. Snappier throttle response is almost always a good thing.
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i have over 48k miles on the 250 and i am thinking of doing this mod but still hesitant because over in the ninja250 forum someone said there is no benefit in regular street riding because of the on and off touchy response...

Do you have a link to that thread/flamefest? Searched and didn't see anything over there.

here it is...

http://forums.ninja250.org/viewtopic.php?p=649903#649903

should i go directly to a 2 zip ties mod?...

jesus... it's not like our bikes have the power to rip the bars out of your hands if you give it too much throttle. :lol:

try the mod... I think you'll like it. start w/ one zip tie and if you think you need more, try and add another later. there have been instances where there was not enough room for 2 ties w/o binding.

it's all about personal preference. for me, I wanted to be able to go from closed to full open throttle w/o having to regrip or pregrip. How much precision you have over it is directly proportional to the amount of gray matter between your ears.

with that said, I just went to a slower throttle on my trials bike this weekend to gain more slow speed throttle precision because that bike does have the power to rip the bars out of my hands. :p

Just out of curiosity, any other bikes out there (aside from R1/R6) that have a 1/5 or more aggressive throttle? Specifically, are the 2009+ ZX6R's 1/5? I think the 6R's would fit in ours with the same grip and everything. Might be a better option than the Yamahas.

The R6 tube already slips on and costs $10 on eBay. No need to reinvent the wheel, IMO.
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The R6 tube already slips on and costs $10 on eBay. No need to reinvent the wheel, IMO.
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What year R6?

What year R6?

http://www.rcramer.com/bikes/ex250/throttle.html

I live in NYC I need this mod now R6 throttle tube or The BRG 1/5th Turn Throttle Adapter?

I think r6 throttle tube Yamaha part number is 5SL-26240-01-00 for $8

I did the r6 swap works a little better then stock go's right on needs no mods:-)
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I did the r6 swap works a little better then stock go's right on needs no mods:-)
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I had a problem with the R6 mod. It took up so much slack out of the cable that I couldn't adjust it back down against the idle adjuster stop. I would need a longer inner cable to make it work on my pre gen. I loved the way the quick twist felt though and would use it in a second if I could make it work.

I had a problem with the R6 mod. It took up so much slack out of the cable that I couldn't adjust it back down against the idle adjuster stop. I would need a longer inner cable to make it work on my pre gen. I loved the way the quick twist felt though and would use it in a second if I could make it work.

did you try adjusting the cables at the carb end, too?

that's funny I had know problems
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went full slack on both ends and still had 3 or 4 mm of distance to idle set stop. I suppose I could cut off a little housing to shorten that length and increase relative length of cable but I don't know if the shorter cable would bind more. hate for the fix to be the start of another adventure...

That may work

I suppose I could cut off a little housing to shorten that length and increase relative length of cable but I don't know if the shorter cable would bind more.

I wouldn't. I had issues with a quick tube that I purchased and it didn't fit correctly out of the box. Unless you don't mind replacing parts that you need to hack up to get things to work, I would advise against trying to modify the throttle to get the tube to work.

any chance the throttle cable routing is nonstandard, creating a longer path to travel eating up your slack?

the routing would not make a difference.

I wouldn't know how to just snip the housing anyway...I have some bicycle cable housing cutters but they are not designed to preserve the cable and even if I did manage to just get the housing off...how would I deburr the end?
Hmm. Does anyone know if it is possible to re attach the cable end after you cut it or if anyone sells a throttle pull cable with a bit more slack in the cable?
thanks again I would love to be able to use the R6 tube

I bought a R6 throttle tube Yamaha part number 5SL-26240-01-00 it is actually .005" SMALLER in diameter then the stock throttle tube on my bike now. I ended up just using the zip tie method.

Could someone point me in the right direction at Cycle Gear? I have been looking, but have not found the R6 throttle tube. A lot of tubes on the site, but non seem to be labeled.

Nevermind, found the 03-05 R6 sleeves at Black Hawk Customs, will that year sleeve work?

Nevermind, found the 03-05 R6 sleeves at Black Hawk Customs, will that year sleeve work?

What's the part number?

I bought a R6 throttle tube Yamaha part number 5SL-26240-01-00 it is actually .005" SMALLER in diameter then the stock throttle tube on my bike now. I ended up just using the zip tie method.

I think the 2007 and older 250's have a smaller cam on the throttle tube. The R6 tube swap originated on the older bikes before the 2008 was even produced.

Kawasaki shows different part numbers between the generations.

2008 : GRIP-ASSY,THROTTLE 46019-0001
2007 : GRIP-ASSY,THROTTLE 46019-1077

It isn't a factory part, it's a replacement item made by Motion Pro.

Single zip-tie mod completed. I really like it.

As a byproduct of less twist, it gives that little extra throttle zing when blipping downshifts. This translates into less hand movement = smoother downshifts. :D

Save your money...do the zip tie method. It's easy to do and cheap and reversible.

Best bang for buck mod!

Just finished doing this mod, just the thing I was looking for. Thanks for posting this up. Putting the housing back together was PITA for me though I wasted like 10 min trying to get it to fit correctly.

bloody brilliant!

I did this mod using the gen 1 R6 throttle assembly. WOW!. It's like a new bike. I highly recommend this mod to any 250r owner who thinks they've gotten bored or out grown their 250. It makes the throttle so much more responsive.

The bike feels so much quicker. You don't notice much difference at higher speeds, but on the low end, HUGE difference. While it used to feel like there was a lag trying to accelerate through the lower RPMs, now just a slight twist of the wrist throws the tach up to 10K in the blink of an eye.

I was torn between trying the zip tie and getting an R6 throttle assembly. In the end, I decided it was worth the $13 to have a throttle assembly that didn't really need any modification. Turns out it did need a slight modification. I had to take about a 1/4 inch off the throttle stop with my dremmel. But other than that, it was a piece of cake.

If you're looking for a little more pep from your bike, this mod is great!!!

part number for the Yami throttle?

part number for the Yami throttle?

The Yamaha part number is 5SL-26240-01-00.

Here is the link I got the info from..
http://www.rcramer.com/bikes/ex250/throttle.html

My bike is a 2007. I've heard that this may not work on the 08+ Ninja 250s. Something about the throttle tube already being larger on those.

The Yamaha part number is 5SL-26240-01-00.

Here is the link I got the info from..
http://www.rcramer.com/bikes/ex250/throttle.html

My bike is a 2007. I've heard that this may not work on the 08+ Ninja 250s. Something about the throttle tube already being larger on those.

thank you for that info.

:yo:

I had a problem with the R6 mod. It took up so much slack out of the cable that I couldn't adjust it back down against the idle adjuster stop. I would need a longer inner cable to make it work on my pre gen. I loved the way the quick twist felt though and would use it in a second if I could make it work.

I wonder if you are having the same problem I had. When I put the R6 throttle on, the throttle close stop was too long. It didn't allow the carb to close all the way on the return. So, I took about 1/4 inch off with my dremmel and it worked fine after that.

I read where some people dremmeled it down to match the stock throttle. But I didn't have to take off that much to make it work. Now I wish I had taken pics.

Did any of you need to adjust the throttle cable down by the carbs?

I used a PVC slice because I was lazy to go out and had time to spare. Will probably go get some zipties to compare thickness but I didn't add more than 2mm to the stock tube and I found it incredibly tight and initially, some binding as well. Once I loosened the cable, it was snug but the binding disappeared.

So far, took it for a quick spin but I can't really tell the difference. I may have shaved off so much that it became less than 1 zip-tie thickness but I can't imagine getting anything thicker on there without it getting caught on something.

Did any of you need to adjust the throttle cable down by the carbs?

I used a PVC slice because I was lazy to go out and had time to spare. Will probably go get some zipties to compare thickness but I didn't add more than 2mm to the stock tube and I found it incredibly tight and initially, some binding as well. Once I loosened the cable, it was snug but the binding disappeared.

So far, took it for a quick spin but I can't really tell the difference. I may have shaved off so much that it became less than 1 zip-tie thickness but I can't imagine getting anything thicker on there without it getting caught on something.

I didn't have to adjust the cable any at the carbs. The R6 throttle tube is considerably thicker than the stock Ninja tube. And you can really tell. I had some binding inside the housing if I really tightened the bottom screw. But I found that loosening it released the tension. It's still tight enough to hold it together and keep it in place. But it's not as tight as it was originally.

this is actually the mod i was looking for to fix that lag in the throttle. I know what i'm doing once i get home from work! :D

I didn't have to adjust the cable any at the carbs. The R6 throttle tube is considerably thicker than the stock Ninja tube. And you can really tell. I had some binding inside the housing if I really tightened the bottom screw. But I found that loosening it released the tension. It's still tight enough to hold it together and keep it in place. But it's not as tight as it was originally.

Is the R6 tube better fitting for a new-gen as well? I thought I saw a post stating that the pre-gen ninja's tube was smaller than the R6 but the R6 was smaller than the new-gens. I'll need to test with a zip tie at some point. Will probably take it out again in the next couple days to see if I notice a difference.

so the crazy glue isn't holding so well. is there any other glue I can use to get the ziptie to stick? Maybe I just need to sand it down a lot more...

someone suggested spray adhesive. You could try that. I found that super glue tends to be more brittle if it is allowed to cure in a cold place. Try allowing it to cure inside the house where it's a little warmer. Sanding it down rougher is also highly recommended. If you think your not holding it in place long enough, Use another ziptie to wrap around the throttle tube or a clamp until it's cured.

someone suggested spray adhesive. You could try that. I found that super glue tends to be more brittle if it is allowed to cure in a cold place. Try allowing it to cure inside the house where it's a little warmer. Sanding it down rougher is also highly recommended. If you think your not holding it in place long enough, Use another ziptie to wrap around the throttle tube or a clamp until it's cured.

It's warm enough where i'm at. I probably just need to use a clamp since i'm impatient to hold the stupid ziptie. lol i'll have to remember to "borrow" a clamp from work before heading out...

There is also a super glue made specifically for plastic and comes with an adhesion promoter you could try that as well. I think its from loctite brand

so i finally did the mod, and had a hell of a time putting everything back together. took it for a test drive and there's a noticeable kick. the only problem is after releasing the throttle, it sloooowly goes back down. does anyone know how to fix this?

k, i took a look at the pics at the beginning of this thread and it looks like the zipties were filed down at the ends at a 45 degree angle. correct me if i'm wrong. maybe that'll do the trick...

Yeah, just find the size pipe that will fit the portion where you now have the zip tie glued on.... sorry I forget what diameter pipe the is (1.5"?), but it was close.

bah... here's some pics instead. :D

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SoJPjRT1ALI/AAAAAAAAF2k/X0aDqA8kmMg/s640/DSC05442-1.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SoJPkJqfmxI/AAAAAAAAF2o/G0v0mxjDeSU/s640/DSC05443-1.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SoJPk63gf5I/AAAAAAAAF2s/rFkDFfkOeuM/s640/DSC05444-1.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SoJPloizAUI/AAAAAAAAF2w/qZCSGrDeEwQ/s640/DSC05445-1.JPG


I did this mod on the 08 250R (same thing applies to the pre-gen) with PCV pipe as pictured above. Mine is about 2/3 thick as KKIM pic. which is about 2 zipties. I think I'll take it apart (got another throttle tube of Ebay) and redo it with full thickness. I think it'll work...but I only use 1 pull throttle cable instead of 2. With the second cable in place, it'll bind. So I guess the trick is to remove the second cable. The second cable is there for backup in case the 1st one jams up..but that push cable isn't going to do anything I think if there other one "stuck"...test it out yourself..jam the other one with a plier or something preventing it from retracting...the "push" will do nothing. If anything, you can 1) hit the cut off switch button, or 2) grab the clutch or 3)turn off with the key.
Throttle cable failure without the second push cable is about 0.0001% so weight your risk/benefits wisely :thumbup:

I'm thinking of doing the same. I just found some precut PCV piping that fits the throttle tube perfectly.

So, how is the response so far? Better? The same? Have you come across any issues?

I have filed both of my ends down and trimmed the side in as well...But im still having slight binding at WOT is barley sticks for about 1 sec then goes down smooth..If i almost go WOT is never binds at all...ANy idea how to fix this?

make sure it's not your cables binding somehow and if that's not the problem, try using some slightly thinner cable ties.

I have filed both of my ends down and trimmed the side in as well...But im still having slight binding at WOT is barley sticks for about 1 sec then goes down smooth..If i almost go WOT is never binds at all...ANy idea how to fix this?

That's pretty dangerous, you might want to take that out until you fix it. Good luck.

im pretty sure its the actual pull cable...what is the cable ties?

cable tie= zip tie

i double checked everything is there is still little biding!...it only binds with the bike off if i twist it past WOT and if im riding it doesnt stick, catch or bind...WTF...should i remove push cable?

...it only binds with the bike off if i twist it past WOT and if im riding it doesnt stick, catch or bind...WTF

huh??? how can that be? :confused:

hmmmm, okay... what makes you think the throttle is binding... is it an actual physical resistance at the throttle grip when you turn it to WOT? how can you turn it past WOT???

okay since the throttle requires less turning there is a little gap at the end of WOT that does do anything now...does that make sense?? its like a .2 inch play right at the end that if i go passed WOT it will stick for a sec and snap back...and if the bikes on and i rev it WOT it doesnt stick b/c i dont need to go passed to that .2inch play and even if i do it doesnt stick like when its off?? maybe the throttl line needs to be shortend at the carbs? my adjustment for throttle cable is already turned in all the way...If i loosen it at all my throttle binds/sticks more and more!!

and yes it deff the throttle cable binding b/c if i play with the line and the adjuster i can make it stick more/less or not at all for a few secs...... anyway I ordered the r6 throttle and will play with that!!

WOT = wide open throttle and should happen when the throttle is opened all the way to it's physical stop. Sorry, I don't understand what you're trying to say. :confused:

im saying the last .2inch of the throttle dont make my rpms jump any faster and also make it stick...my throttle is a shorter twist now so lets say WOT is a 1.5" twist it only takes me 1.3" to be at WOT..so the last .2" doesnt do anything and is where my cable sticks/binds...so im saying i dont need to twist all the wat to achieve full throttle!..sorry for the confusion

gotcha... do you have the proper amount of free play at the throttle?

not to much free play b4 I twist the throttle like it used to be. its very sensitive now and as soon as i twist the rpm move

You need to have some free play when the throttle is at rest. Sounds like the cable is adjusted too tight.

will check on that and loosen it up to see!

Mine barely has any binding but it's definitely tight. I dont see how I can adjust it to loosen it up at all though. I looks as if it's as loose as it can get. Will have to check again later.

ok so i got my r6 throttle today and its a shorter throw for sure..its a little less of a twist than the OEM tube w/ the zip tie mod..Id say about a 1/5 turn now w/ the r6 throttle..I love it but it still binds at WOT for a sec.... i have the throttle disassembled and have found that it the pull cable that BINDS! If i pull on just the line its self it still get stuck if i pull it out all the way...What can cause this?? is mt cable kinked some how? even with everthing taken apart the line catchs!!! ERR help!

have you tried cleaning and lubing the cable?

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10016

what year is your bike?

2002... and no i have not cleaned the line yet but its the main pull throttle cable for sure.... its smooth all the way untill i pull the line out all the way untill it can move any more then it sticks for a sec

get a cable luber and shoot some wd40 through there and see what kinda crap comes out the end. be sure to put a rag on the end to catch whatever comes out so you can see what was in there. :)

if that doesn't fix it, then a new pull cable should solve your problem, if you are sure it's the cable that's binding.

Gonna have to try this mod. Thanks for the write up

its deff the cable and im gonna order a new one its only 13$$...I know this b/c even if the throttle is disassembled the cable still sticks by hand..IE the throttle tube isnt pulling the cable my HAND IS and its still sticking

I know this is in the pre-gen section but does anyone happen to know if the r6 (or any others) throttle will work on the 08+? I am thinking of giving the pvc method a shot just to see the result but would much rather a more professional style solution, just for safety if nothing else.

I know this is in the pre-gen section but does anyone happen to know if the r6 (or any others) throttle will work on the 08+? I am thinking of giving the pvc method a shot just to see the result but would much rather a more professional style solution, just for safety if nothing else.

I believe it turns out the R6 and 08+ have close to if not the exact same size throttle tube so it doesnt end up changing anything.

I believe it turns out the R6 and 08+ have close to if not the exact same size throttle tube so it doesnt end up changing anything.

that's what I've heard as well, but can't confirm it. But, if it is true... does this mean that pregen owners can gain a quick turn throttle by simply changing their throttle tube to a new gen one? :)

anyone have some pregen and newgen throttle tubes laying around to see if the outside diameters are different?

I was having trouble getting the zip tie to stick (they would both just pop off) so I tried using a cut closet rod mount and it's just slightly smaller than the throttle so it kind of clips on and stays. No need to hold it with pliers hoping that the glue will stick when you let go, just glue and walk away. Here (http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202183194/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053) is what I'm talking about. With the right piece just cut about 1/4" off the round part.

How are everyone's zip ties holding up?
I'd imagine over time the tie will wear down.

How are everyone's zip ties holding up?
I'd imagine over time the tie will wear down.

It shouldn't really... They're plastic just like the throttle tube itself, and there shouldn't be any friction on it. It wouldn't hurt to check, but even if it started to wear through a little bit, which I *think* is unlikely, it wouldn't hurt anything.

Just a thought on this, I have my throttle tube off completely at the moment while I wait for a :)new handle bar, But was thinking Why not just cut a piece of irrigation pipe and file, like cut a thin bit off the end slice it or even take a piece out bevel the two edges at the required angle and clip it on even with the glue, may even be able to get different thickness with class ratings of pipe, It is only another alternative as irrigation is my occupation and it is readily available to me. if any one could think of any issues I could have with this, I'd be interested.

This has been covered on here somewhere already, I think by kkim. IIRC, it had to be just thin enough at the ends so that it didn't get stuck in the throttle control box, and had to be a smooth transition of thickness pipe so that it keeps the throttle pull linear...

it's actually on the first few pages of this thread. the pictures are down, but you'll get the idea.

Sorry If I was misunderstood, I was just looking at alternative material, this is ok isn't it, Pictures are better.:thumbup:

Hugs it well and is a natural shape. This a class 9 pipe, I hope the thickness is fine and it doesn't bind, I will assemble it before I glue it for a trial to see how it fits.

That looks pretty darn good! :thumbup:

any binding issues yet?

Sorry If I was misunderstood, I was just looking at alternative material, this is ok isn't it, Pictures are better.:thumbup:

Hugs it well and is a natural shape. This a class 9 pipe, I hope the thickness is fine and it doesn't bind, I will assemble it before I glue it for a trial to see how it fits.

Any binding issues?

FYI - this mod sucks.

FYI - this mod sucks.

Why does it suck?

Why does it suck?

Because when I attempted this some time last year I immediately experienced cable binding issues. Trailerboy experienced the same thing on his bike @ a trackday event last month. Granted he didn't have any issues prior but you may eventually experience this. Hopefully not during emergency situations.

I'm not a big fan of simple DIY homemade mods--I'm a direct fit kinda guy. :D

Because when I attempted this some time last year I immediately experienced cable binding issues. Trailerboy experienced the same thing on his bike @ a trackday event last month. Granted he didn't have any issues prior but you may eventually experience this. Hopefully not during emergency situations.

I'm not a big fan of simple DIY homemade mods--I'm a direct fit kinda guy. :D

+1!! we cut that stupid **** off cause its ****!

+1!! we cut that stupid **** off cause its ****!

Is there any other solution for reducing wrist strain? - one that doesn't cause binding?

Is there any other solution for reducing wrist strain? - one that doesn't cause binding?

Yes,....never ride your bike. :D

Yes,....never ride your bike. :D

or massive amounts of blow

To be fair my issues were not related to the mod at all - simply the grip, and I wish I had my mod back... Though I used PVC pipe, not a zip-tie, for a more "direct fit" :D

To be fair my issues were not related to the mod at all - simply the grip, and I wish I had my mod back... Though I used PVC pipe, not a zip-tie, for a more "direct fit" :D

You're gay. Okay, it was the mod & the grip. You happy? :p

Is there any other solution for reducing wrist strain? - one that doesn't cause binding?

maybe try not putting your wrist in an awkward position? if you are going to be leaving your throttle in one position for a long time, reposition your hand so its comfortable. yes yes i know the msf says not to. they tell you not to because idiots forget they have their hand repositioned then go to slam on the brakes because they werent paying attention and are now getting cut off and dont actually let off the throttle all the way and just wash their front out. just dont do that and you'll be fine.

or massive amounts of blow

i donno man, road-head on a bike might be a tricky maneuver

You're gay. Okay, it was the mod & the grip. You happy? :p

You told me I was happy and then you asked.. I'm confused!

Still not sharing a tent with you though... :whip:

You told me I was happy and then you asked.. I'm confused!

Still not sharing a tent with you though... :whip:

there's a pedo-RV for a reason, maxipad. the reason is so cheeks can have gay anal sex with you and none of us have to listen.

...Is that where his nickname came from?

i'm gonna go with yes and say it has absolutely nothing to do with his last name.

For as cheap as the R6 or R1 throttle tube w/grip, this is the best way to go.

The R1 will go on with no issues at all. The R6 may need some dremeling in some areas and some adjustments in the cable as well. I have the R1 mod as I have done this mod on all my bikes. You will get a little less than 1/8" difference where it stops. The R6 I believe double that. I think the R6 may be best for the little Ninja especially for racing but maintaining a steady cruise will be more difficult. I may actually order one up since they are even cheaper than the R1.

Stock
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v36/Hayaboosta/IMG_20120207_161920.jpg

R1
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v36/Hayaboosta/IMG_20120207_164653.jpg

Because when I attempted this some time last year I immediately experienced cable binding issues. Trailerboy experienced the same thing on his bike @ a trackday event last month. Granted he didn't have any issues prior but you may eventually experience this. Hopefully not during emergency situations.

I'm not a big fan of simple DIY homemade mods--I'm a direct fit kinda guy. :D

i NEVER had any issues idk man maybe god doesn't want u going to fast :p:p

After doing this mod I noticed a lot of binding by removing the push/return throttle cable I was able to remove virtually all of the binding. Are there any major disadvantages to removing this cable?

It's basically there a a backup in case the throttle assembly on your carbs fails and doesn't snap shut on its own. This would be most likely to happen at WOT in which case you'd be stuck there, so it's a good idea to have that cable installed. I'd go back and see what you did wrong that's causing the binding and fix it.

(particularly with a slightly burred worn cable) and then bind.

If your throttle cable has ANY burrs, kinks, broken strands or any other obvious signs of wear, it should be replaced.

I guess I should around to doing this free mod. Friends are laughing at me breaking my throttle tube trying to keep up.

well it won't really give you more throttle, just less twist to get to WOT

the convenient side effect is that a) right when you make the mod, you're still turning the throttle the same amount which means your bike feels peppy-er, and b) it helps a lot with fine-tuning your throttle control by forcing you to get used to making tiny inputs (helps with the transition to a larger bike)

well it won't really give you more throttle, just less twist to get to WOT

the convenient side effect is that a) right when you make the mod, you're still turning the throttle the same amount which means your bike feels peppy-er, and b) it helps a lot with fine-tuning your throttle control by forcing you to get used to making tiny inputs (helps with the transition to a larger bike)

Yeah I totally know but the whole "twisting my wrist and shifting" won't look as bad :D

This definently didnt work as well as i thought it would for me...:/

This definently didnt work as well as i thought it would for me...:/

How so?

This definently didnt work as well as i thought it would for me...:/

I can only imagine that your expectations were unrealistically high, or you did something wrong.

I can only imagine that your expectations were unrealistically high, or you did something wrong.

^^ +1

dude it's just a way to get WOT without having to re-grip...

if it's sticking, lube it

if it's sticking, lube it

http://www.funnypictures.net.au/images/flow-chart-for-a-mans-tools-wd40-and-duct-tape1.jpg

^^ :lol:

that's actually something my prof showed me in class at the beginning of the year!

sad part is, that's actually the method of fixing things that my dad and I both share...

About to do this mod, I figured I'd use some heat shrink tubing around the zip tie to add slightly more thickness and make the zip tie smooth. You guys think there would be any possible issues besides the usual binding problems people have seen here?

Some tests, the red tubing I have is a bit thicker and if I wanted more thickness I could put red over white and shrink it that way so I can get more thickness while keeping the shape.

http://i.imgur.com/AhHbS.jpg

Did this yesterday. The tubing doesn't hold up very well so I went ahead and did it with 1 zip tie. Works beautiful!

I have been trying to get this to work. The cable tie rubs against the part with the holes in it that guides the cable in this photo
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=3375&d=1249856202

This appears to be the only part that is binding. Decided to give up. Not sure if a new throttle tube will make any difference as I would surely have the same clearance issues.

My bike is from the first year of production '88 so maybe there are some differences. I know the colour of the throttle tube is black on my bike and the piece that guides the cable is white. It is also rather loose in the casing. Is it meant to move around?

I might try and get a video if no one can understand what I mean.

My bike is from the first year of production '88 so maybe there are some differences. I know the colour of the throttle tube is black on my bike and the piece that guides the cable is white. It is also rather loose in the casing. Is it meant to move around?

I might try and get a video if no one can understand what I mean.

the construction looks exactly like my 1996 model and I didn't have any issues with catching. What kind of zip tie are you using? It could be you're using one that's too thick. Mine was about 1mm in thickness and it works flawlessly. It also looks like your ziptie may be too close to the hole the cable goes through; try sanding that down some more and see what happens.

Also, just as a note: please be careful after doing this mod. The change is significant enough to require relearning a lot about the bike's handling and output. At least if you're a beginner like me :x

the construction looks exactly like my 1996 model and I didn't have any issues with catching. What kind of zip tie are you using? It could be you're using one that's too thick. Mine was about 1mm in thickness and it works flawlessly. It also looks like your ziptie may be too close to the hole the cable goes through; try sanding that down some more and see what happens.

Also, just as a note: please be careful after doing this mod. The change is significant enough to require relearning a lot about the bike's handling and output. At least if you're a beginner like me :xThe image I used was from the first post. I haven't taken any myself yet.

I have had the bike for 3 years now and it is for my girlfriend to ride. After getting a service she wasn't happy with how far you have to twist the throttle to get the bike going as it was much shorter beforehand.

Can this mod be done on a new gen bike as well?

Can this mod be done on a new gen bike as well?

Yes, it's exactly the same process I think.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MBg8Bp14u5k

Video of someone doing it on the newgen, but he doesn't use a zip tie. Same process.

I finally got this mod done. Made a difference, but not as much as I was expecting. My throttle was binding due to the serration on the zip tie, so I had to shave it till it was smooth. May be that's what made it thinner, hence not as quick as I was expecting. I might go in for a second zit tie after shaving the serration, to see if it makes things better... Unless any of you guys can give me a better idea? :p I'm in no place to afford buying after market tubes, so please don't recommend that.

make your own tube and housing

I finally got this mod done. Made a difference, but not as much as I was expecting. My throttle was binding due to the serration on the zip tie, so I had to shave it till it was smooth. May be that's what made it thinner, hence not as quick as I was expecting. I might go in for a second zit tie after shaving the serration, to see if it makes things better... Unless any of you guys can give me a better idea? :p I'm in no place to afford buying after market tubes, so please don't recommend that.

Try using another zip tie and lubing your cables as well. The only catching I encountered was when I accidentally put the zip tie on edge and it made it wider. I had success with some multicolored zip ties at the dollar store.

If you're always going WOT with the bike you won't notice much of a difference I think. I'm a miser when it comes to the throttle so the difference was quote pronounced for me.

Try using another zip tie and lubing your cables as well. The only catching I encountered was when I accidentally put the zip tie on edge and it made it wider. I had success with some multicolored zip ties at the dollar store.

If you're always going WOT with the bike you won't notice much of a difference I think. I'm a miser when it comes to the throttle so the difference was quote pronounced for me.

The kind of advice I was looking for :D Thanks. I'll see what I can do. Probably not too soon though. In a couple of weeks. And I'll have the service center do it, so they can lube my cables at the same time.

I really think you guys should use the throttle tube from an Yamaha R1 or even an R6. So much easier to deal with and will always work flawlessly. R6 tube probably the best for the Ninjette. I currently use the R1 on my 08 Ninjette and it was better but I think the R6 would be best assuming you have enough cable adjustment. I use the R1 on both my ZRX and Hayabusa and that is best for street riding on those bikes. My Ninjette bike is completely apart so I haven't had a chance to try the R6 tube. I tried the R6 on my old Kawi 750 Turbo but the Turbo has a really small one and I don't have enough cable to make it work. I think I will look into a custom cable to use this throttle on this bike as I primarily drag race this bike. I'll post picks up soon showing the Ninjette stock tube, 750 Turbo tube, R1 tube and the R6 tube.

I really think you guys should use the throttle tube from an Yamaha R1 or even an R6. So much easier to deal with and will always work flawlessly. R6 tube probably the best for the Ninjette. I currently use the R1 and it was better but I think the R6 would be best assuming you have enough cable adjustment. My bike is completely apart so I haven't had a chance to try it. I tried the R6 on my old Kawi 750 Turbo but the Turbo has a really small one and I don't have enough cable to make it work. I think I will look into a custom cable to use this throttle on this bike as I primarily drag race this bike. I'll post picks up soon showing the Ninjette stock tube, 750 Turbo tube, R1 tube and the R6 tube.

That would be BRILLIANT!!! :kiss:

p.s. is THIS (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motion-Pro-Throttle-Tube-Yamaha-R6-YZF-R6-2003-2005-/320976370495?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4abbaebb3f&vxp=mtr) what you are talking about?
http://d3d71ba2asa5oz.cloudfront.net/92000038/images/p0djwt48a5qa6lwv.jpg

That would be BRILLIANT!!! :kiss:

This what you are talking about?


Yes.

Here are some pics:

Left to right:

Stock Kawasaki 750 Turbo
Stock Kawasaki 2008 Ninja 250R
Stock Yamaha 2006 R6

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v36/Hayaboosta/IMG_20120929_202224.jpg

Here are some pics:

Left to right:

Stock Kawasaki 750 Turbo
Stock Kawasaki 2008 Ninja 250R
Stock Yamaha 2006 R6

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v36/Hayaboosta/IMG_20120929_202224.jpg

Thanks Steve. That was very helpful. If you don't mind doing us another massive favour, can yo please measure the diameter of the R6 and 250 tubes? I mean the part where the cable goes.

Here are all 4 as a comparo. The pics are not the best but I did measure all of them for comparison sake. I guess the R1 is not much different than stock Ninja 250R. Where the cable ends lie is a tad different so there will be a little more circumference to make the R1 tube still a little bigger than stock. Not by much mind you but I did notice a slight change. Thus the reason on my earlier posts from way back shows a difference in the pics. I noticed more when I used the R1 on my Hayabusa but slightly different animal altogether. I don't have the stock Hayabusa to compare right now. After doing all the measurements and obviously seeing the difference, the R6 would be the best bang for the buck assuming you have plenty of adjustments on the cables.

Here are some more pics as well as the diameter measurements.

750 Turbo - 31.50mm
Ninja 250R - 36.75mm
Yamaha R1 - 36.80mm
Yamaha R6 - 40.75mm

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v36/Hayaboosta/throttletubes2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v36/Hayaboosta/throttletubes.jpg

Thanks for the detailed reply bro. Made things a lot clearer. I'll be ordering me a new R6 throttle tube soon :)

Hmm, my zipties work great, but I might also be ordering an R6 tube, since it's OEM quality, and god knows that installing it will take 30 seconds...

I can use some new grips as well :lol:

So R6 tube or ziptie? Which should I do.

So R6 tube or ziptie? Which should I do.

I did zip tie and am not entirely satisfied... Will do an r6 mod as soon as I can get my hands on a tube...

Alright. I will wait for your review! Go find yourself that throttle tube. I am tired of bending my wrist so far/regripping just to get to WOT.

Alright. I will wait for your review! Go find yourself that throttle tube. I am tired of bending my wrist so far/regripping just to get to WOT.

Don't hold your breath, I'm in india and it'll be a while before I get one... Lol it's only 10bucks on amazon. Why do t you just give it a shot and post a review? Good luck!

Jono, I'll get one, but it will be a while till I can ride. Soooo, just get one yourself. :p

A ziptie is free. Try it. If you don't like it, then get the R6 tube. That's also cheap. Either way, it won't be a big investment

Okay, I guess I'll buy one. What year R6 throttle tube am I looking for? Have they changed any in the past 5 years or so?

Okay, I guess I'll buy one. What year R6 throttle tube am I looking for? Have they changed any in the past 5 years or so?

I think you need an 06-09 throttle tube.

Will he need 3 of them? :)

Will he need 3 of them? :)

Fixed it :p sorry, my net's pretty f**ked up... Lol

Sooo an R6 throttle tube for an R6 made between 2006 and 2009? I'm all over this. I just gotta go find one cheap now.

Sooo an R6 throttle tube for an R6 made between 2006 and 2009? I'm all over this. I just gotta go find one cheap now.

Motion Pro 01-0094 Throttle Sleeve (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WJ7OIA/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)

I have spare D675 throttle tubes...I wonder if this will be an improvement. If so, could be a free mod for me :D

I have spare D675 throttle tubes...I wonder if this will be an improvement. If so, could be a free mod for me :D

You can always compare it with the various throttle sleeve sizes Steve was kind enough to share with us. Let us know what you find out :thumbup:

Just looking at the comparo pics above, the D675 throttle tube looks very much like the Turbo one...so Im assuming the D675 throttle tube would actually make the throttle throw need more effort. On the D675 forums, everyone upgrades to the 1050, R1, or R6 throttle tube for a shorter throw.

It is easy to find cheap used throttle tubes for 03-05 R6's but not for 06+. And I am pretty sure that the 03-05 wouldn't be an improvement based on the pics that Steve posted. So I will just keep checking ebay every now and then. Hopefully a cheap tube comes up.

It is easy to find cheap used throttle tubes for 03-05 R6's but not for 06+. And I am pretty sure that the 03-05 wouldn't be an improvement based on the pics that Steve posted. So I will just keep checking ebay every now and then. Hopefully a cheap tube comes up.

Motion Pro 01-0094 Throttle Sleeve (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WJ7OIA/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)

Motion Pro 01-0094 Throttle Sleeve (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WJ7OIA/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)

For worn or broken OEM units on most offroad and dual-sport models
Made from a nylon fabric composite material
Featuring pop out end caps for use with bar end type brand guards
All sleeves have molded ridges to secure grips
All sleeves come in a 1 piece tube and drum design

This item fits the following applications:
2006-2012 Kawasaki KX450F
2004-2012 Kawasaki KX250F
2004-2012 Suzuki RMZ250
2005-2012 Suzuki RMZ450
2001-2012 Yamaha WR250F
2008-2012 Yamaha WR250R
2003-2012 Yamaha WR450F
2001-2012 Yamaha YZ250F
2003-2012 Yamaha YZ450F
2008-2011 Yamaha WR250X
2001-2011 Yamaha TW200
2008-2009 Kawasaki KLX450R
2003-2005 Yamaha YZF-R6
1998-2005 Yamaha YZF-R1
2003 Yamaha XT225
2001-2002 Yamaha WR426F
2000-2002 Yamaha YZ426F
1998-2000 Yamaha WR400F
1998-1999 Yamaha YZ400F

Am I missing something??

Jono, buy it oem. This link says it should be about $8
http://www.riderforums.com/z1k-z750-performance-upgrades/41625-want-quick-turn-throttle-get-here-12-03-06-a.html

Weird, when I searched on amazon it said 06-09...
http://shop.mobileweb.ebay.com/searchresults?kw=Yamaha+r6+throttle+tube&cmd=SREF&catid=&catnm=&mfs=&acimp=&isNewKw=true

What I can find on google is as follows:

the part # for the 06+ R6 throttle tube is 2C0-26240-00-00
the 06+ R6 throttle is WOT in 1/6 turn
the 04 R1 throttle is WOT in 1/5 turn. (Comparable to the ziptie mod on the pregen, from my estimation)
a good writeup on the parts in this thread (http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=213953&highlight=r6+throttle)


I hope that clears things up. I'll buy one closer to thanksgiving break when I actually will be able to go home and install it.

What I can find on google is as follows:

the part # for the 06+ R6 throttle tube is 2C0-26240-00-00
the 06+ R6 throttle is WOT in 1/6 turn
the 04 R1 throttle is WOT in 1/5 turn. (Comparable to the ziptie mod on the pregen, from my estimation)
a good writeup on the parts in this thread (http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=213953&highlight=r6+throttle)


I hope that clears things up. I'll buy one closer to thanksgiving break when I actually will be able to go home and install it.

It has to be from a 2006-2009 R6. 2C0-26240-00-00. You can get them for about $21 shipped from some outfits. Rather inexpensive I think.

Thanks for the confirmation

Here is the difference between my old Turbo throttle compared to the Ninja 205R throttle. Quite a difference. So if you compare the diameter of the Ninja 250R to the R6 you will get about the same change as in the pics.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v36/Hayaboosta/StockThrottletube100WOT-1.jpg

This is a nice cheap mod. I no longer have to pull the throttle into position to launch. Immediate throttle response instead of the quick second for the throttle to actually get opened.

I just stuck a motion pro replacement tube for a 2011 ninja 1000 on my 05, its alot shorter than stock. Motion pro #01-1042 and its really cheap, like 14 shipped

I am looking to get an '06-'09 R6 throttle sleeve fairly soon. Does anyone know if it would possibly affect fitment of aftermarket grips since the R6 sleeve have a larger diameter?

Soooo.... I fiddled about with my throttle a bit more today and added a second zip-tie to spruce things up... Now I have the throw I want, but It's binding like no tomorrow. Any solutions guys? Or have I just f**ked up my throttle? lol

I am looking to get an '06-'09 R6 throttle sleeve fairly soon. Does anyone know if it would possibly affect fitment of aftermarket grips since the R6 sleeve have a larger diameter?

I don't think it should...

Guess I'll find out lol.

Ordered some new grips and an R6 throttle sleeve (motion pro 01-0094). I hope it shortens the throw a good bit. There is seriously way too much twist on the 250 it hurts my wrist; especially considering I like to cover the front brake.

Btw couldn't you just remove the 2nd zip tie?

Edit

Just realized I may have ordered the wrong throttle sleeve... sigh.

Edit #2

The throttle sleeve we are looking for is part # 2C0-26240-00-00.

Did you do it yet? Any modification to the throttle tube (cutting edges) that needed to be performed?

Guess I'll find out lol.

Ordered some new grips and an R6 throttle sleeve (motion pro 01-0094). I hope it shortens the throw a good bit. There is seriously way too much twist on the 250 it hurts my wrist; especially considering I like to cover the front brake.

Btw couldn't you just remove the 2nd zip tie?

Edit

Just realized I may have ordered the wrong throttle sleeve... sigh.

Edit #2

The throttle sleeve we are looking for is part # 2C0-26240-00-00.

Did you do it yet? Any modification to the throttle tube (cutting edges) that needed to be performed?

The throttle sleeve has not been delivered yet. I think it comes in today. :D

I did however try the single zip-tie mod this past Sunday. I have to say there was a noticeable improvement. I was quite happy with the results. I did not have to twist the throttle as far to get it wide open and I did not have to "re-grip" like I usually did so it saved a good bit of stress on my wrists.

The R6 throttle tube is supposed to offer even more of a difference so I can't wait to try it out.

I will most likely not get to try out the R6 sleeve until my woodcraft clip-ons come in (hopefully later this week) as I do not really feel like trying to get the bar ends off the stock handle-bars...

I'll let you guys know how it turns out.

I made this spacer out of PVC tubing. Its about the biggest diameter you can go in the switch housing. Made it a .25 turn throttle.

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=1267&pictureid=10146 http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=1267&pictureid=10147

Sorry about that, I'm not that good with the pictures !! What I wanted to say is that bushing makes it about a quarter turn throttle.

Dude that is badass!

How difficult was it to make that thing? Any rubbing issues?

It was really simple, took about 10 minutes . Initial fitting worked good, no rubbing. I'll fit it up permanently in the morning and see how it works.

What size pvc is that?

1.5 inch I think, I'll check on Monday. I had to machine the ID in a lathe to get it to the rite size. Raced it last weekend, worked well.

1.25 inch PVC, actually measures 1.35" ID, turned the ID to 1.40" Trimmed it off to the propper width and shaped it's profile on a belt sander.

Just to update you guys on this.

I can confirm that the R6 throttle tube/sleeve (part # 2C0-26240-00-00) fits without any issues.

I did use some white lithium grease on a bit of the throttle cable and the inside of the throttle housing for lubrication.

Awesome improvement in throttle throw. I get much less wrist fatigue if any now.

I installed the R6 tube when I installed my Woodcraft clip-ons and with the SVRacing rearsets. Feels like an entirely different bike ready for the track. Love it. :thumbup:

Edit

Just to clarify, this is on my 2009 Ninja 250 (this thread is in the "pregen" section after-all :p)

I also installed an 06-09 R6 throttle tube on my 2004 Ninja 250 without any issues. I was using it the replace the zip tie mod because I wanted something OEM and it has about the same throttle response as the zip tie mod. The throttle tube was $16 at my shop.
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I actually have a complete throttle + housing + switch assembly off an 07' R6. Can't wait to do the mod. Tho I'm sure I'll be beefing that up too using PVC pipe. I'm done with zip ties... lol

I actually have a complete throttle + housing + switch assembly off an 07' R6. Can't wait to do the mod. Tho I'm sure I'll be beefing that up too using PVC pipe. I'm done with zip ties... lol

Your going to end up with an eighth turn throttle. Might as well just tape it wide open and use the on/off switch as a throttle !!!!

Your going to end up with an eighth turn throttle. Might as well just tape it wide open and use the on/off switch as a throttle !!!!

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j44/psych0hans/05odk6_zps3080d368.jpg

Your going to end up with an eighth turn throttle. Might as well just tape it wide open and use the on/off switch as a throttle !!!!

It will still be less than the 50mm cam that rojoracing53 and I are using. He'll be fine.

It will still be less than the 50mm cam that rojoracing53 and I are using. He'll be fine.

And to think they sell a 53mm cam as well... I didn't want to spend 200$ + shipping for a Motion pro setup, so I figured this was the next best thing. Sort of mid ghetto, considering it's OE, just for another bike... lol Also, from what I hear, the R6 cam doesn't do TOO much for he throw, just 4mm or so... I wasn't satisfied with the ziptie mod the first time round and added a second zip tie. That was perfect for me, but I botched up my throttle + cables in the process. This time it'll be custom throttle cables with the R6 stuff, so I'm hoping it'll do much better.

Nice. I see nothing wrong with using an OE part for another bike. Definitely not as ghetto as the zip-ties.

Personally, 1 zip-tie is that happy medium. If it was track only, I would definitely want a quicker turn throttle.