I have a dilemma. To see or not sell. I love my 250, I invested time and energy, I can honestly say I am attached to it. I wanted to get some advice from you guys as I feel some of you are just as attached to your 250.

Let me get this out of the way first, I have more fun with my 250 than I do with my 650. The SPorts Demon tires are fantastic and I rode it all over Tijuana Mexico and I could lean that sucker all the way. The fun factor is there. I bought 2 new mufflers that I have not installed along with a jetting kit and a air pod. I am not trying to make it faster, simply more responsive.

With that out the way, 2k for a 05 Ninja 250 is GREAT, border line over priced but well worth it given that the bike only has 5.8k miles on it and is in great shape physically.

I am playing with the idea, of using the 2k and getting a modern Yamaha R3. I sat on the R3, and while its no Ninja 250 level comfort/feel, it was similar. Is it possible to have the same "fun" factor on a R3 as my 250? Or am I simply better off keeping the 250 and continue modding the crap out of it?

Here's a pic of Zule (Pronounced Su-Leh)

https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/53111241_10217350759296394_7513902700027707392_o.jpg?_nc_cat=104&_nc_oc=AQnzREjiNp-BtM-4NfbZUihFw0Zt-zsQFHYI6GeI2n8WVCdJoS1QvoKrhAatEWBexqcJhhZ8ZEWu7taUCQ7hiio0&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.xx&oh=30eebbd453f192507dab43fc536e8687&oe=5DE43B46

Take money.
Buy something else comparable or even another 250R
Still have cash left over.
*shrug*

Yeah, sell it and buy TWO more Ninja 250s!! Perhaps one pre-gen and one new-gen!

I bought 2 new mufflers that I have not installed along with a jetting kit and a air pod. I am not trying to make it faster, simply more responsive.


Be warned these changes can open a can of worms that you may not want to open. My '07 is very responsive at all throttle positions with a completely stock intake and exhaust system.

Is yours hesitating, or does it have flat spots at some throttle settings to make you want to improve throttle response? If so, my first guess would be that the carburetors need a proper cleaning.

I can't tell you what to do as far as selling it. If someone offered me $2000 for mine I don't think I'd take it, because it would take me more than $2000 in purchase price and my time to get another motorcycle in the condition mine is in, set up the way I like it.

I wish someone would offer me 2k for my old girl.

I'd sell it in a second for $2k.

Then go find another lonely one that doesn't run for $250-$500 and fix it up like all the others.

They normally go for $1,500 around here.

It would only be worth to sell if you need the money. The bike looks clean enough to keep and I'm assuming that it runs well. There was a time when I almost sold my 250 a few years ago then I got smart right away and decided to keep it.

If it brings you joy, keep it.
If you'd rather have something else, sell it.

The thing I love about my ninja is that i'm not afraid to mess around with the decals and aesthetics of the bike, i probably wouldn't be able to do that with a new nice fancy bike.

Take the money (IMHO)

I've been meaning to do a following up on this thread.
I actually turned down the person who came at me with this offer and the 2 people after that lol.
Then this young girl in the military asked me if she could see it, and she did and loved it. She said she had to go away for 2 weeks. She came back, 2k on hand, and i sold. Not sure what made me sell it but i can definitely say i regretted it badly. I did not need the money. I felt so ******. More than anything, it was an emotional attachment to my ex as i had bought that bike for her. I had also invested a lot of time, money and energy to get it to work perfectly.

I used that money and bought a ninja 300, 2014, for 2200 bucks. It only had 4k, super clean. Definitely a fun bike. I plan on decat'ling it, adding a gxsr suspension, and maybe doing a ecu flash.

I actually turned down the person who came at me with this offer and the 2 people after that lol.
Then this young girl in the military asked me if she could see it, and she did and loved it.

Did you list the bike as being for sale? Your initial post gave me the impression that someone just offered to buy it out of the blue.

Welcome to fuel injection. Major upgrade for almost no cost.

I wouldn't de-cat it though. Rather just leave it as is until you can get proper headers with a PCV if that's what you want.

Did you list the bike as being for sale? Your initial post gave me the impression that someone just offered to buy it out of the blue.

My apologies for the confusion, i had an ad up for almost 10 months and i had forgotten about it. Out of the blue i had a few people hit me up throughout this time. All offered less then 2k. 3 people offered me 2k, i turned 2 down and on the 3rd, a girl in the military, who saw it and loved it but didnt buy it because she had to leave for military training for 2 weeks. She came back 2 weeks later, really enthusiastic about buying it and i felt bad if i said no, so i sold it :(


Welcome to fuel injection. Major upgrade for almost no cost.

I wouldn't de-cat it though. Rather just leave it as is until you can get proper headers with a PCV if that's what you want.

Thank you. Did you upgrade the suspension to a gxsr one? And what do you mean about getting the propper headers with a pcv? Can you explain?

I was going to do the same thing i did with the sv650 to my 300, cut out the cat, solder on a new pipe.

Here is a pic of the bike. Hopefully i did it right snd you guys can see it.
This thing gets insane mpg.

I know its a 300 but i wanted to see how much power i can get oit of this little guy. If i decat it and do an ecu flash, what kind of performance gains can i expect to get? I already installed a K&N air filter.

https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/fr/cp0/e15/q65/68753667_10218627392411424_2783215954010570752_o.jpg?_nc_cat=109&efg=eyJpIjoidCJ9&_nc_oc=AQlC_1ybAzcxHT9MyCgFqTwB7_3gQGy7u1VX8xqYNhGYou-IpL_fndIFUn9GmIjLU-uvgcb2t9s7KuAcPq9sgbmh&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.xx&oh=e9a53ab2248996f45a46c5ac8f93f6a2&oe=5DF1E7BA

Here is a pic of the bike. Hopefully i did it right snd you guys can see it.

This thing gets insane mpg.

I know its a 300 but i wanted to see how much power i can get oit of this little guy. If i decat it and do an ecu flash, what kind of performance gains can i expect to get? I already installed a K&N air filter.



That may change once you do all the mods.

That may change once you do all the mods.


Assuming all mods are done to it, what can i expect?

I am going to focus on tires and suspension before i do anything crazy. I need to add some sports demon tires to it.

With optimized fuel & ignition maps, you can get additional +14% more power over stock. Someone got lazy and implemented same too-rich high-end fuel-curve like with 250. Sacrificed lot of power, but good hedge against bad-gas or super-hot days.


Try Dunlop Q3+, much better performance with modern radial construction. Multi-compound construction gives long-life along with amazing cornering grip.

No need to change suspension unless you’re racing or weigh over tonne.

My apologies for the confusion, i had an ad up for almost 10 months and i had forgotten about it. Out of the blue i had a few people hit me up throughout this time.


Got it, thanks. I'm still confused, but not because of this thread any more. :)

And what do you mean about getting the propper headers with a pcv? Can you explain?

You don't get the gains you think you're going to get by cutting the cat chamber open, removing the cat, and welding it back together. (if that's what you were planning) Not on this bike, or any bike that has a cat relatively close to the front of the bike.

But... if you were going remove the cat chamber completely and add a proper 2 into one collector with good welds and a new mid pipe, that could help.

There's just something about leaving a cat chamber there without a cat in it that slows down exhaust velocity too close to the engine and creates a tuning problem. I've seen enough dyno curves after people have tried to know that it doesn't work well.

Yeah, the sudden changes in diameter and steps introduced when removing cat is actually worse for flow.

You don't get the gains you think you're going to get by cutting the cat chamber open, removing the cat, and welding it back together. (if that's what you were planning) Not on this bike, or any bike that has a cat relatively close to the front of the bike.

But... if you were going remove the cat chamber completely and add a proper 2 into one collector with good welds and a new mid pipe, that could help.

There's just something about leaving a cat chamber there without a cat in it that slows down exhaust velocity too close to the engine and creates a tuning problem. I've seen enough dyno curves after people have tried to know that it doesn't work well.

That's exactly what I was thinking of doing. Cutting the CAT out of it and weld on a pipe. I know a few people that can do this cheaply down in Mexico (down the street from me). It worked great for my SFV650, was that an exception? I got a nice hefty boost on it and loved it and thought maybe I could get the same on my 300. Can you describe what happens when the cat is removed? And even with tuning, it won't fix the performance issue? Is there a solution or would you just recommend not cutting it? I need to do moore research D:

Yeah, the sudden changes in diameter and steps introduced when removing cat is actually worse for flow.

I am surprised, I would think with removing the cat, it would increase the flow. It worked great on my SFV650. Why wouldn't it work here?

Got it, thanks. I'm still confused, but not because of this thread any more. :)

:D

It depends on the CAT. If it's in a larger chamber and you remove it you will get a loss of velocity, and reduced flow, due to the large volume.

If you are looking for performance, a high quality full system is a better way to go. As with most mods, your HP gains will come at a cost. Usually that means you will make gains at the top and give up some at the bottom. Header diameter of a performance pipe is usually larger to get increased flow at high RPMs, which usually hampers low and mid-range power. That's why your MPG will drop.

Well guys

Something odd happened. I sold the Ninja 250 in September for 2k. The girl who bought my Ninja 250 contacted me back in late November asking me if I wanted to buy it back but due to my accident, I had drained some of my savings and was in no condition to buy it back. I told her this. Few weeks later she asked if I would buy it for 1500. I still could not buy it even with payments. She eventually moved out of the state and her romates who she left the bike with hits me up in January and ask if I wanted it for 1k. I said yes. Please keep in mind I wasn't trying to buy it for less than she paid, I simply did not have the money.

She drove it maybe 40 miles and the carbs were a little clogged but got her started! Been using her ever since. I sold the Ninja 300 a few days ago for 2700 dollars.

I love the way she handles, I enjoy riding the 250 more than I do the 300! I added some Ride-On Sealnt/Balancer to the Sports Demon tires and wow did it improve the riding quality!

I bought a used dual Yoshimura exhaust with manifold for her, they are a little beaten up but thought I try it on and see what happens. I still have the K&N Air Filter (I plan on removing air box) and the jetting kit I bought which I will have someone install for me. The bike already has a gsxr suspension in the rear and I am looking to make some more modification and was hoping someone could tell me what mods I can do to her. Has anyone done LED lighting on the bike? I installed the Lightening Dark LED on the headlight but also looking to upgrade everything else on it. Front suspension upgrade? My 2 front handle bars are bent! Are their any after market cheap alternative I can buy for her or do I need to stick with OEM?

Not sure what Kawi was thinking, but they increased fork rake-angle on 300, making it slower-steering than 250. Add +20 lbs and 300 handles like pig compared to 250.

Front suspension upgrade depends upon your usage and weight. Go to RaceTech's site and enter your weight into their spring-rate calculator and see how it compares to stock: https://racetech.com/ProductSearch/12/Kawasaki/EX250%20Ninja%20250R/1986-2007.

You'll really want to use dyno-tuning to dial in mixtures once you have exhaust installed. Don't get rid of air-box, you'll have issues in cross-winds and really no benefits (no more power than K&N in stock airbox anyway). Factory airbox poses no restriction to flow, so removing it won't gain anything.

If you have factory handlebars, and they're bent, pretty much gotta toss them. You can replace them with 36mm clip-on handlebars. Lowers bars about 2" and you can replace just bar section cheaply if bent later.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000499587147.html

If you already have clip-on handlebars, you can just buy some 7/8" (22.2mm) tubing and replace just bar sections. I usually keep 11" section in toolbox for quick replacement at track.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/192996657715

Take the money and buy my 250 (2009) track bike. I'll even deliver it. :D

Not sure what Kawi was thinking, but they increased rake-angle on 300, making it slower-steering than 250. Add +15 lbs and 300 handles like pig compared to 250.

Front suspension upgrade depends upon your usage and weight. Go to RaceTech's site and enter your weight into their spring-rate calculator and see how it compares to stock: https://racetech.com/ProductSearch/12/Kawasaki/EX250%20Ninja%20250R/1986-2007.

You'll really want to use dyne-tuning to dial in mixtures once you have exhaust installed. Don't get rid of air-box, you'll have issues in cross-winds and really no benefits (no more power than K&N in stock airbox anyway). Factory airbox poses no restriction to flow, so removing it won't gain anything.

If you have factory handlebars, and they're bent, pretty much gotta toss them. You can replace them with 37mm clip-on handlebars. Lowers bars about 2" and you can replace just bar section cheaply if bent later.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000499587147.html

If you already have clip-on handlebars, you can just buy some 7/8" (22.2mm) tubing and replace just bar sections. I usually keep 11" section in toolbox for quick replacement at track.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/192996657715

SO much useful information!

I don't know much about the rake angkle (I have to look at some youtube videos now lol) but I think thats explains why I can heavily lean the 250 way more easily than the 300 even with a passenger!

OK, so keep stock airbox! Gotcha. Do I change out the air filter to something else too or leave that stock as well? Stock air filter looks like a square foamy clothe material. If there is another air filter I can use, what do you recommend?

When you say "dyne-tuning to dial in mixtures", are you saying I take it to a specialize place for that OR is that something any motorcycle mechanic can do? My friend the mechanic says he would just tune it by ear basically I don't think he has any special tool for it. I don't know much about this so I am hoping you can point me in the right direction.

The purpose of me doing this to my bike is to have a way better riding experience. Not looking to break speed records but I do miss the responsiveness of the 300 and I am hoping to get something similar from the 250 from jetting it and having the after market exhaust.

I think I mentioned the jetting kit I bought for it, there should be no issues than installing that with stock airbox and yoshimura exhaust right?

Thanks for the handlebars info!!!!

There is ABSOLUTELY ZERO way any mechanic can tune carbs optimally by ear! This has been proven thousands of times after putting their "tuned carbs" bike on dyno and actually measuring power-output and AFR... way, way off.

Sorry I made typo. "Dyno tuning" is running bike on rollers and using exhaust-analyzer to determine AFR-air fuel ratio. Then changing carb adjustments to get AFR into most-power producing range.

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=63914
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7G0UWdsrA4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rL4Gmt_r0cA

Typically on new-gens at least, LOTS of power is added with full-exhaust and removing fuel by going to smaller main-jets. I've seen up to +22% more power just from fine-tuning AFR, which is about twice as much as initial gain from just slapping parts on. On my bike, Spears downsized the main-jets twice after reviewing dyno's AFR data. On 300s, about +14% more power can be gained just from leaning out AFR with no parts changed or added. This is done on dyno again, with re-programming ECU instead of mucking with carbs. Part of better response from 300 is due to 3D ignition-maps compared to 250s 2D map.

Factory foam filter works fine. Problem is lots of people over-oil it and cause restriction. A K&N filter is common replacement. Just two light layers of spray-oil per side is all that's needed to sufficiently oil filter. Or you can use spray K&N filter-oil with factory foam filter as well.

There is ABSOLUTELY ZERO way any mechanic can tune carbs optimally by ear! This has been proven thousands of times after putting their "tuned carbs" bike on dyno and actually measuring power-output and AFR... way, way off.

Sorry I made typo. "Dyno tuning" is running bike on rollers and using exhaust-analyzer to determine AFR-air fuel ratio. Then changing carb adjustments to get AFR into most-power producing range.

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=63914
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7G0UWdsrA4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rL4Gmt_r0cA

Typically on new-gens at least, LOTS of power is added with full-exhaust and removing fuel by going to smaller main-jets. I've seen up to +22% more power just from fine-tuning AFR, which is about twice as much as initial gain from just slapping parts on. On my bike, Spears downsized the main-jets twice after reviewing dyno's AFR data. On 300s, about +14% more power can be gained just from leaning out AFR with no parts changed or added. This is done on dyno again, with re-programming ECU instead of mucking with carbs. Part of better response from 300 is due to 3D ignition-maps compared to 250s 2D map.

Factory foam filter works fine. Problem is lots of people over-oil it and cause restriction. A K&N filter is common replacement. Just two light layers of spray-oil per side is all that's needed to sufficiently oil filter. Or you can use spray K&N filter-oil with factory foam filter as well.

With what has been said above, is it possible for my mechanic to be able to at the very least, JET the 2005 Ninja 250 enough to where it runs without any issues by ear? I ask because I wants to know if the bike will be ride-able as its my main bike for going to work and back. If you say I need to take it to a profesisonal thats fine, I will take it to a dyna tune place.

Anyone know of a place in San Diego and how much they charge?

Go for it!

With what has been said above, is it possible for my mechanic to be able to at the very least, JET the 2005 Ninja 250 enough to where it runs without any issues by ear? I ask because I wants to know if the bike will be ride-able as its my main bike for going to work and back. If you say I need to take it to a profesisonal thats fine, I will take it to a dyna tune place.

Anyone know of a place in San Diego and how much they charge?Go ahead and test-ride bike in current stock condition. Do series of runs to redline with 25/50/75/100% throttle in 4th-gear and note how it feels. Document any throttle X rpm areas with dead-spots, or stumbles. i.e. 50%@8000rpms or 75%@6000rpms, etc.

Then install your exhaust and do same test. Compare conditions that had difficulty before and how it feels now. Also note any new areas that has stumbles.

This data may be enough for competent mechanic to tune better without actual AFR data. You may get only 1/2 of power-gains without actual dyno-tuning, but bike should at least be rideable.

When you get chance, fine-tune and dial it in on dyno. Some possible places, check reviews and get personal references. Verify that they have staff that knows how to tune carbs:

North County Hypersports in Oceanside
Mickey Cohen Motorsports, Placentia
Performance Choppers, El Cajon
Full Throttle Powersports, Santee

If somebody offered me 2/k for my 2011 250, I would sell in a heart beat. I have fixed it up and put allot of money in her. I would just about break even. I would get a N300 or R3. But maybe I should wait and see how I like the 250 on the track. 1st track day of the season will be in early April at NCBIKE. :thumbup:

2 reasons I would sell the 250, I hate dealing with carbs and slightly more power with the 300 or R3. I love my 400!:thumbup:

I'm checking out crashed 400 couple hours north of me. Comes in around $3k and I'll sell my 250 for $2k in seconds to go towards 400. Will probably only get $1.5k for it, so I'll sell both my 250s to buy 400.

Guys side note, how do I install the clip on handle bars? I took one of the handle bars off but the bar isnt out enough for me to put the clip-on on it. If i insert the clip-on, about a quarter of the clip on is making contact with the rod. Trying searching for videos on youtube but all i get is semi modern 250 :/


Go ahead and test-ride bike in current stock condition. Do series of runs to redline with 25/50/75/100% throttle in 4th-gear and note how it feels. Document any throttle X rpm areas with dead-spots, or stumbles. i.e. 50%@8000rpms or 75%@6000rpms, etc.

Then install your exhaust and do same test. Compare conditions that had difficulty before and how it feels now. Also note any new areas that has stumbles.

This data may be enough for competent mechanic to tune better without actual AFR data. You may get only 1/2 of power-gains without actual dyno-tuning, but bike should at least be rideable.

When you get chance, fine-tune and dial it in on dyno. Some possible places, check reviews and get personal references. Verify that they have staff that knows how to tune carbs:

North County Hypersports in Oceanside
Mickey Cohen Motorsports, Placentia
Performance Choppers, El Cajon
Full Throttle Powersports, Santee

I couldn't get a hold 3 out of the 4. Full Throttle wants to charge me 300 for it. Is that the going price?

Funny enough they have a Ninja 400 in stock with 6k miles on it. He wants 4k for it. I told him i have 3. He said he will take the 3 plus the ninja 250. Told him i would think about it.

I then spoke with someone at POWAY MOTORCYCLE. He said he help create the jet kit from Power Sports. He said he would jet it but would charge me however long it takes him to properly jet it. Anywhere between 100 and 200 bucks. Thoughts?

If somebody offered me 2/k for my 2011 250, I would sell in a heart beat. I have fixed it up and put allot of money in her. I would just about break even. I would get a N300 or R3. But maybe I should wait and see how I like the 250 on the track. 1st track day of the season will be in early April at NCBIKE. :thumbup:

2 reasons I would sell the 250, I hate dealing with carbs and slightly more power with the 300 or R3. I love my 400!:thumbup:

I sold my ninja 250 and bought a 300. I didn't like the 300. I loved the ABS but i didnt like the overall feel of the bike. I dod love the look and i do want a 400 or a ninja 300 red color.

So i sold my ninja 250 and got it back for half of what i sold it for. The guy at full trottle offer to sell me a ninja 40p for 4k, will take 3k cash along with my Ninja 250. I dont feel its worth it.

Guys side note, how do I install the clip on handle bars? I took one of the handle bars off but the bar isnt out enough for me to put the clip-on on it. If i insert the clip-on, about a quarter of the clip on is making contact with the rod. Trying searching for videos on youtube but all i get is semi modern 250 :/




I couldn't get a hold 3 out of the 4. Full Throttle wants to charge me 300 for it. Is that the going price?

Funny enough they have a Ninja 400 in stock with 6k miles on it. He wants 4k for it. I told him i have 3. He said he will take the 3 plus the ninja 250. Told him i would think about it.

I then spoke with someone at POWAY MOTORCYCLE. He said he help create the jet kit from Power Sports. He said he would jet it but would charge me however long it takes him to properly jet it. Anywhere between 100 and 200 bucks. Thoughts?



I sold my ninja 250 and bought a 300. I didn't like the 300. I loved the ABS but i didnt like the overall feel of the bike. I dod love the look and i do want a 400 or a ninja 300 red color.

So i sold my ninja 250 and got it back for half of what i sold it for. The guy at full trottle offer to sell me a ninja 40p for 4k, will take 3k cash along with my Ninja 250. I dont feel its worth it.

The 400 is a helluva bike. It’s light and handles awesome. I have a full track season on it. Made lots of changes. A friend of mines who is very fast on his 250, says he couldn’t get a feel for the 300. He has a 400 and he rides the **** out of it on the track. He prefers the 250 over the 300. I rode the 250 on some nice twisty roads and it feels allot like the 400. Looking forward to riding the 250 some more!

Guys side note, how do I install the clip on handle bars? I took one of the handle bars off but the bar isnt out enough for me to put the clip-on on it. If i insert the clip-on, about a quarter of the clip on is making contact with the rod. Trying searching for videos on youtube but all i get is semi modern 250 :/Gently loosen and lower triple-clamps over fork-tubes (raise fork-tubes) so you have enough exposed to clamp on clip-on bars.


I couldn't get a hold 3 out of the 4. Full Throttle wants to charge me 300 for it. Is that the going price?

Funny enough they have a Ninja 400 in stock with 6k miles on it. He wants 4k for it. I told him i have 3. He said he will take the 3 plus the ninja 250. Told him i would think about it.

I then spoke with someone at POWAY MOTORCYCLE. He said he help create the jet kit from Power Sports. He said he would jet it but would charge me however long it takes him to properly jet it. Anywhere between 100 and 200 bucks. Thoughts?$300-500 for dyno-tuning is about average depending upon how much work it takes. Can be anywhere from 2-5hrs. Poway $100-200 offer should come with dyno-chart showing power and AFR if it's legit. On turbo cars, it's not uncommon to spend $5k-10k on dyno-tuning to dial them in at higher boost-levels.

Best value is getting your own wideband O2-sensor and analyzing AFR yourself and dialing it in as best you can. This will get you 80-90% there and will only require 1-2hrs on dynos to get it perfect.

The guy at full trottle offer to sell me a ninja 40p for 4k, will take 3k cash along with my Ninja 250. I dont feel its worth it.

This is great deal! You'll easily spend $1k-2k in upgrades over next couple years on 250 and it won't come anywhere close to stock 400 in handling or power. I say go for it!!! Offer him $2k cash and your 250 as start...

I have to agree with the great Danno, if you liked your 250, I am sure you will love the 400. I think the wet weight of the 400 is very close to the wet weight of the 05 250. It’s definitely lighter than the 08-12 250. See if the dealer will let you test ride it.

Honestly if you’re attached to it and it runs like a champ I would keep it. Especially if it’s your only bike. My ‘06 runs better than some brand new bikes. I have never had an issue with it and to me that is worth more than $2k.

It would only be worth to sell if you need the money. The bike looks clean enough to keep and I'm assuming that it runs well. There was a time when I almost sold my 250 a few years ago then I got smart right away and decided to keep it.

This

The 400 is a helluva bike. It’s light and handles awesome. I have a full track season on it. Made lots of changes. A friend of mines who is very fast on his 250, says he couldn’t get a feel for the 300. He has a 400 and he rides the **** out of it on the track. He prefers the 250 over the 300. I rode the 250 on some nice twisty roads and it feels allot like the 400. Looking forward to riding the 250 some more!

I really want the 400, just seems like a fun over all bike with a modern look!
That's interesting how you rode the 250 and liken it to a 400. Could a 250 be as fast as a 400? And by that I don't mean top speed but on acceleration. I need to test ride.

I have to agree with the great Danno, if you liked your 250, I am sure you will love the 400. I think the wet weight of the 400 is very close to the wet weight of the 05 250. It’s definitely lighter than the 08-12 250. See if the dealer will let you test ride it.

There is a guy who is willing to let one go for about 3500 bucks, only has 500 miles on it. He had a kid and he no longer wants to ride. I also have to be an adult here and can't just waste 3500 cash for a bike, not unless I sell the Ninja 250 or I use some of the repair money for the SFB650 that I wrecked back in October. :( My SFV650 has a bent fork and I can't find a cheap replacement.

Honestly if you’re attached to it and it runs like a champ I would keep it. Especially if it’s your only bike. My ‘06 runs better than some brand new bikes. I have never had an issue with it and to me that is worth more than $2k.

To be honest I really am attached to it. I do like it and want to keep her. Hence why I bought 2 used Yoshimura's exhaust. Their a little beaten up but they should do the job and if I like them, maybe I'll spent the money for some brand new one.

I love how she rides, she is comfortable, sporty in a classics sense, and just wants to bee pushed. My issue to be honest is that I like having 2 bikes and I like to split the wear and tear on them. My SFV650 has about 26k miles on it but she is out of commission right now due to a bent fork. I was involved in an accident last year.

Recent picture

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Eu3Sdsy8tYF6Jn3uXnOsyYzv332kfMlJ/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Eu3Sdsy8tYF6Jn3uXnOsyYzv332kfMlJ

I really want the 400, just seems like a fun over all bike with a modern look!
That's interesting how you rode the 250 and liken it to a 400. Could a 250 be as fast as a 400? And by that I don't mean top speed but on acceleration. I need to test ride.



There is a guy who is willing to let one go for about 3500 bucks, only has 500 miles on it. He had a kid and he no longer wants to ride. I also have to be an adult here and can't just waste 3500 cash for a bike, not unless I sell the Ninja 250 or I use some of the repair money for the SFB650 that I wrecked back in October. :( My SFV650 has a bent fork and I can't find a cheap replacement.



To be honest I really am attached to it. I do like it and want to keep her. Hence why I bought 2 used Yoshimura's exhaust. Their a little beaten up but they should do the job and if I like them, maybe I'll spent the money for some brand new one.

I love how she rides, she is comfortable, sporty in a classics sense, and just wants to bee pushed. My issue to be honest is that I like having 2 bikes and I like to split the wear and tear on them. My SFV650 has about 26k miles on it but she is out of commission right now due to a bent fork. I was involved in an accident last year.

Recent picture

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Eu3Sdsy8tYF6Jn3uXnOsyYzv332kfMlJ/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Eu3Sdsy8tYF6Jn3uXnOsyYzv332kfMlJ

I would say the handling is similar. Both are very light weight and so easy to throw around in the corners. I made many upgrades on my 400 and I can power wheelie it in 1st! I am doing the same upgrades on the 250.

3500 for a 400 with 500 miles is pretty good. I would jump on it! :thumbup: