I have a 2014 EX300a that I have been slowly replacing the brake system components. I have run into a major issue with the replacement Galfer SS line. I could get any hand brake. I took the caliper off and rebuilt it.. new pads!! No brake!! Took caliper off and shot air into it and the pistons popped out. I then put a vacuum bleeder on it and sucked an entire bottle of fluid through it. No brake!! What have I done? Please help !!!

Maybe the master cylinder piston seal is bad. Same thing happened to my brothers van. The bore of the cylinder was naturally worn, when we pressed the pedal down to bleed the system the piston traveled the full length of the cylinder (down to where it normally doesn't travel and get wear) and the seal got damaged by the more narrow & unworn cylinder diameter.

I have a 2014 EX300a that I have been slowly replacing the brake system components. I have run into a major issue with the replacement Galfer SS line. I could get any hand brake. I took the caliper off and rebuilt it.. new pads!! No brake!! Took caliper off and shot air into it and the pistons popped out. I then put a vacuum bleeder on it and sucked an entire bottle of fluid through it. No brake!! What have I done? Please help !!!

Did you actually pump the brakes ? I do not think vacuum bleeders work well on an empty system. Normally you would pressurize the system to decrease the size of the bubbles which makes more space for the fluid and it's easier to take the bubbles out of the system . If you vacuum the system you are reducing the pressure which makes air bubbles bigger. Air goes up, fluid goes down. Vacuuming will only work if you attach it to the highest point in the system. But if you are attaching it to the lowest point of the system i.e. the bleeder screw all you are doing you are sucking the fluid out as it goes down and the air bubbles stay on the top going nowhere.

I hand pumped for ever it seemed like that why I decided to use the vacuum. I understand the air wanting to go up.. there isn’t a bleeder valve on the master so I’m stuck at the caliper.. the brake pads aren’t compressing at all. I’ve lost the whole dang system. I’m great with auto brakes, but this has me stumped!

I hand pumped for ever it seemed like that why I decided to use the vacuum. I understand the air wanting to go up.. there isn’t a bleeder valve on the master so I’m stuck at the caliper.. the brake pads aren’t compressing at all. I’ve lost the whole dang system. I’m great with auto brakes, but this has me stumped!

I had exactly the same problem on my car clutch and could only complete bleeding it with fluid been pressurized to 28psi/2atm.

Here is what is specified in the manual. First you bleed the master cylinder and only then you bleed the caliper.

○The procedure to bleed the front brake line is as follows.
Bleeding the rear brake line is the same as for the front
brake.
•Remove the reservoir cap [A] and diaphragm. •Fill the reservoir with fresh brake fluid to the upper level
line in the reservoir. •Slowly pump the brake lever several times until no air
bubbles can be seen rising up through the fluid from the
holes at the bottom of the reservoir.
○Bleed the air completely from the master cylinder by this
operation.

Remove the rubber cap from the bleed valve [A] on the
caliper. •Attach a clear plastic hose [B] to the bleed valve, and run
the other end of the hose into a container.

•Bleed the brake line and the caliper.
○Repeat this operation until no more air can be seen coming
out into the plastic hose.
1. Pump the brake lever until it becomes hard, and apply
the brake and hold it [A].
2. Quickly open and close [B] the bleed valve while holding
the brake applied.
3. Release the brake [C].
NOTE
○The fluid level must be checked often during the bleeding
operation and replenished with fresh brake fluid as
necessary. If the fluid in the reservoir runs completely
out any time during bleeding, the bleeding operation
must be done over again from the beginning since air
will have entered the line.
○Tap the brake hose lightly from the caliper to the reservoir
for more complete bleeding.

I have done that several times, but I’m not getting any pressure buildup at the lever. I tapped the hose numerous and bled it. Pumped the lever softly and full pulls. Bled the system into a container below the caliper, but still nothing.. I have the lever zipped tied now to see if that’ll help some air release.

You are fighting physics and gravity. Bubbles are rising in system faster than you can bleed fluid. Put brake-caliper HIGHER than master-cylinder until you’ve removed all air. Then put caliper back down/

Okay, I took the caliper off and held it higher than the master cylinder and bled until there were no visible bubbles and only fluid coming from bleeder valve. Still no pressure at the lever..

Don't use vacuum-bleeder. Rig up something to hold caliper above master, and get an assistant and do old fashioned way because you need 4-hands:

1. pour new brake-fluid into master so level is topped off. DO NOT LET IT GET LOWER THAN TOP, NOT EVEN HALFWAY! Rotate bars so master reservoir is as flat as possible so you can fill it up as much as possible.

2. loosen bleeder-screw about 1/4-1/3rd turn. Just enough to allow flow. (keep clear hose attached at all time)

3. squeeze brake-lever quickly & firmly, but not fast (about 1/4-sec from open to squeezed). You'll hear squirting noise from master, slightly irregular & rough if there's air. Some should squirt up out of master reservoir, higher level will keep squirt from blowing everywhere. Slow down squeeze if it blows all over. KEEP LEVER SQUEEZED!

4. tighten brake bleeder screw. Did you see any bubbles come out of clear hose when squeezing lever?

5. release brake-lever

6. Go back to #1



You HAVE to alternate between opening bleeder screw, squeezing lever and closing bleeder to ensure that fluid flows one-way and air doesn't get into system. Opening bleeder too much beyond what's needed to enable flow causes bubbles to get in through threads of screw. Speed Bleeders actually makes this process very easy.