Most of you that have been riding a while have probably tried numerous different chain lubes over the years, like I have, and found that they all fly off and make a mess.

What do you guys think of using something like this - Hornady 1-shot - https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-99901...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

In this test - http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667 - it topped 45 other lubes/corrosion inhibitors.

Hornady 1-shot would provide excellent corrosion protection for the side plates as well as lubrication for the contact areas without being a heavy lube or wax that would fly off.

My only hesitation would be compatibility with the o-ring material.

I think I'll find an o-ring and soak it for a while to see if there is any effect.

The article did test the products for their effect on polystyrene (Styrofoam) -

Photo - Hornady 1-shot is in the 4th row down, 2nd from left - http://www.dayattherange.com/wp-cont...psf42cb59c.jpg

It had no effect on polystyrene, which surprised me.

Ran across this test of other solvents/lubes on chain o-rings - https://advrider.com/f/threads/chain...esults.345397/

Thoughts?

Looks interesting. Lack of reactivity with polystyrene seem to indicate less reactive (more polar ?) compound which may be friendlier to O-rings.

I'm not sure ADV test's assumption that O-ring swelling being bad is necessarily correct. For lifetime of chain, 2-5 yrs, certain amount of evaporation and wear would occur with O-rings. I would think you'd want some compound that restored oils and elasticity to O-rings. Which would result in some swelling in short-term tests, but may actually exactly match natural shrinkage & wear 1:1 in long-term.

I'd like to see some data on areas of wear on chain that creates worn-out stretch.

- How much of wear is external on rollers (wear against sprockets).
- How much of wear is internal on rollers.
- How much wear is on inside & outside of bushings?
- How much wear is on pins?

I think once percentages of these areas are determined, we can see how various lubes can contribute to mitigating wear in those specific areas. I'm not sure popular belief that "chain is fully-sealed with O-rings anyway, can mostly ignore it" is correct either.

Personally, I think frequency of chain-maintenance is probably equally or more important than kind of elixir used. I've had good results with WD-40 washing every 500-miles along with using Phil's Tenacious or Chain-L No5 oils. These seem to grip metal well and not fling-off along with having good lubrication properties. I'm going to try that Hornady-1, thanks!

I think the "fling-off" thing is over-played, it depends upon how much you slather on initially. One to two drops per roller isn't going to make mess, but holding spray-nozzle on for 5-minutes straight as you spin rear-wheel on stand will create quite mess! Even one revolution of chain with spray-lubes I think is too much. I'll wipe off chain with rag after applying any spray-lube.

i have only had chain wax fly off when i didnt let the wax sit up for an hour or two before riding.
i started out using 90w gear oil. now THAT STUFF FLIES OFF!!!

i have only had chain wax fly off when i didnt let the wax sit up for an hour or two before riding.
i started out using 90w gear oil. now THAT STUFF FLIES OFF!!!

Good point here. Same stuff happens on bicycles. All those lubes that have a thiner added to help the lube to get to tight places are supposed to be left alone for an hour or two for the thiner to evaporate.

I usually lube my bicycle chain the night before and by the morning the chain is ready

I have been using DuPont Teflon in the yellow can for years. It was in a blue can that Lowe’s used to carry. But they changed the formula and Lowe’s doesn’t carry the yellow can anymore. Certain Walmart’s still carry it. Most of my bikes had white rims, and I would get very little fling. I will try to find a picture of it.:thumbup:

Fort-9...fort-nine? Did a review of different chain lubricants, and his overall choice, was good ole gear oil was the winner of his tests. Just a statement about his obser ations. For what/how he tested, it made sense. Imhavent tried it yet, but I keep thinking about it.

I remember Honda’s recommendation for my VF back in ‘80s was 75w90 gear oil. That stuff does have ET/EP additives for lubrication where there is actual contact. Wonder what Honda suggests nowadays.

I have been using DuPont Teflon in the yellow can for years. It was in a blue can that Lowe’s used to carry. But they changed the formula and Lowe’s doesn’t carry the yellow can anymore. Certain Walmart’s still carry it. Most of my bikes had white rims, and I would get very little fling. I will try to find a picture of it.:thumbup:

Maybe you mean DuPont Chain Saver. I use that too, and it works well. You can get it in a spray or a liquid. I get the liquid and brush it on. It's less messy.

This stuff? http://www.performancelubricantsusa.com/product/chain-saver-lubricant.php
Seems reviewers indicate its formulae has changed since being taken over by Finish Line. https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=104972

This stuff? http://www.performancelubricantsusa.com/product/chain-saver-lubricant.php
Seems reviewers indicate its formulae has changed since being taken over by Finish Line. https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=104972

The changed stuff was DuPont Multi-Use Dry, Wax Lubricant. Chain-Saver is a different thing and gets good reviews. I used to use Original Bike Spirits chain lube, but the damn stuff is so hard to find that I switched to the Dupont Chain-Saver. No fling, seems good.

The changed stuff was DuPont Multi-Use Dry, Wax Lubricant. Chain-Saver is a different thing and gets good reviews. I used to use Original Bike Spirits chain lube, but the damn stuff is so hard to find that I switched to the Dupont Chain-Saver. No fling, seems good.

Correct it used to be in a blue and white can, they did change the formula. The yellow and white can is the old formula! Been using it for over 15 years!

Fort-9...fort-nine? Did a review of different chain lubricants, and his overall choice, was good ole gear oil was the winner of his tests. Just a statement about his obser ations. For what/how he tested, it made sense. Imhavent tried it yet, but I keep thinking about it.

Here's test referenced:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VnPYdcbcAe0&feature=youtu.be

While I don't have exact records since I've gone through so many chains through decades, I do seem to notice that gear-oil is only lube that consistently gets me +10K-miles out of chain & sprockets. I don't have to be fastidious about maintenance either. Drip some gear-oil on chain every other thank fill-up, clean every other month or so. That's it.

Good discussion. I'm also curious what you guys use to clean the chain of old grease, oil and dirt, before applying whichever lube you use. Is it worth buying branded chain cleaners or do some of you just use plain old kerosene?

I found this test https://www.rideapart.com/features/313985/motorcycle-chain-maintenance-which-chain-cleaner-is-best/ on chain cleaners.

Good discussion. I'm also curious what you guys use to clean the chain of old grease, oil and dirt, before applying whichever lube you use. Is it worth buying branded chain cleaners or do some of you just use plain old kerosene?

I found this test https://www.rideapart.com/features/313985/motorcycle-chain-maintenance-which-chain-cleaner-is-best/ on chain cleaners.

When I clean a chain I soak it in mineral spirits (hardware store paint thinner) for a while, then brush it while working the chain's joints around. Then I hang it to dry long enough to get all the thinner out. Then I use Chainsaver on it.

I realize there is a ton of conflicting advice on the web. I just do what has proven to work well for me. I do believe that wiping a chain with a cloth to "clean" it doesn't do anything except force the gritty dirt between the side plates and under the rollers.

When I start with a clean, non-greased chain and use Chainsaver, I don't get road grit sticking to it, so I really don't have to clean it very often.

Most of you that have been riding a while have probably tried numerous different chain lubes over the years, like I have, and found that they all fly off and make a mess.

What do you guys think of using something like this - Hornady 1-shot - https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-99901...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

In this test - http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667 - it topped 45 other lubes/corrosion inhibitors.

Hornady 1-shot would provide excellent corrosion protection for the side plates as well as lubrication for the contact areas without being a heavy lube or wax that would fly off.

My only hesitation would be compatibility with the o-ring material.

I think I'll find an o-ring and soak it for a while to see if there is any effect.

The article did test the products for their effect on polystyrene (Styrofoam) -

Photo - Hornady 1-shot is in the 4th row down, 2nd from left - http://www.dayattherange.com/wp-cont...psf42cb59c.jpg

It had no effect on polystyrene, which surprised me.

Ran across this test of other solvents/lubes on chain o-rings - https://advrider.com/f/threads/chain...esults.345397/

Thoughts?

I use One-Shot lube when I am reloading rifle cases, To me it feels very sticky and tacky, when I am handling the cases. On the occasion that I drop one they are covered in junk after rolling around on the floor. I would be concerned about it holding too much grit.

I use One-Shot lube when I am reloading rifle cases, To me it feels very sticky and tacky, when I am handling the cases. On the occasion that I drop one they are covered in junk after rolling around on the floor. I would be concerned about it holding too much grit.
The One-Shot Case Lube isn't the same as the One-Shot Gun Cleaner and Lube.

The Cleaner and Lube is much thinner and dries without becoming tacky.

The One-Shot Case Lube isn't the same as the One-Shot Gun Cleaner and Lube.

The Cleaner and Lube is much thinner and dries without becoming tacky.

Did not know that.