So I've read and seen dyno's a full exhaust gives around 5-6 hp for the 250r ninja, stock I know that It can reach 160kmh /100 mph so with full exhaust ,air filter can you get more top speed?Never seen a youtube video with that

The only modifications I have are an Area-P two into one exhaust and a 15 tooth front sprocket. I have been able to attain 110 mph.

The only modifications I have are an Area-P two into one exhaust and a 15 tooth front sprocket. I have been able to attain 110 mph.

Full exhaust or slip on?

Full exhaust required. Muffler not as significant. Tyga full-exhaust makes about 1bhp more than Area-P from dyno-charts I've found.

Actual top-speed of new-gen is ~96mph (106 on factory speedo). I got top-speed figures from several independent magazine tests. It varies +/- couple mph based upon grade of road, wind-speed & direction, altitude, ambient-temperatures and humidity, mirrors folded or not, how tightly you are tucked in with just pinky-fingers on grips, etc. A double-bubble windshield is good for +2-3mph. I measured post-upgrade changes based upon calibrated Trailtech Vapour gauge.

Now, full exhaust along with going 1-size leaner on main-jets to compensate for super-rich factory jetting will get you in neighborhood of 12:1 AFR. Not ragged-edge max-power which occurs @ 13.5:1, but you'll have safety-margin for bad-fuel, hot-weather, mis-firing plugs, etc. Along with snorkel delete, you'll be looking at +20-22% more power. This brings your top-speed to 103mph (113 on speedo).

I'm going to experiment with extra flared sections on fairing ahead of hands to shield arms better. Even with my elbows against tank and pinkies on grips, arms are still exposed. That should be good for another 1-2mph. Also going to put 1" dent on top of tank for my chin; trying to get top of helmet under windshield's top.

Full exhaust required. Muffler not as significant. Tyga full-exhaust makes about 1bhp more than Area-P from dyno-charts I've found.

Actual top-speed of new-gen is ~96mph (106 on speedo). I got top-speed figures from several independent magazine tests. It varies +/- couple mph based upon grade of road, wind-speed & direction, altitude, ambient-temperatures and humidity, mirrors folded or not, how tightly you are tucked in with just pinky-fingers on grips, etc. A double-bubble windshield is good for +2-3mph. I measured post-upgrade changes based upon calibrated Trailtech Vapour gauge.

Now, full exhaust along with going 1-size leaner on main-jets to compensate for super-rich factory jetting will get you in neighborhood of 12:1 AFR. Not ragged-edge max-power which occurs @ 13.5:1, but you'll have safety-margin for bad-fuel, hot-weather, mis-firing plugs, etc. Along with snorkel delete, you'll be looking at +20-22% more power. This brings your top-speed to 103mph (113 on speedo).

I'm going to experiment with extra flared sections on fairing ahead of hands to shield arms better. Even with my elbows against tank and pinkies on grips, arms are still exposed. That should be good for another 1-2mph. Also going to put 1" dent on top of tank for my chin; trying to get top of helmet under windshield's top.

The ninja 300 has 39 hp and can reach 190 kmh /120 mph with full exhaust we get about the same hp so I was curious if it can reach around that

The ninja 300 has 39 hp and can reach 190 kmh /120 mph with full exhaust we get about the same hp so I was curious if it can reach around that
How are you calculating speed?

Seems high for an actual (not speedo) reading.

How are you calculating speed?

Seems high for an actual (not speedo) reading.

Mostly from speedo ,actual speedo reading is false in almost on every bike

Full exhaust or slip on?

Full exhaust.

The ninja 300 has 39 hp and can reach 190 kmh /120 mph with full exhaust we get about the same hp so I was curious if it can reach around that

That's most likely speedo-speed, considering that EX500 with significantly more power, 60bhp, reaches actual 187kph/118mph top-speed, Most often radar-tested actual top-speed measured is about 171kph/108mph for 300. But it is heavier and blocks more wind, so souped-up 250 can hang no problem.

Here's video of me going back & forth with my buddy Steve on FLAP Ninja-300 (http://feellikeapro.com/). It does have stickier Pirelli tyres. But he doesn't get away from me on straights and we go back & forth couple times.

Dan & Steve - Laguna Seca - Fun starts 6:00 in (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rMCa3TGJhmY&t=356s)

rMCa3TGJhmY

pvcubq1qfYg
This guy seemed to reach 210 he says from what I translated he used full exhaust ,K&N filter and some spark plug,it's the fuel injected version

Hmm, maybe... 210kph -10% for speedo-error = 189kph/117mph. Would still need about 55-60bhp for that. Was probably going downhill with tail-wind. :)

FI 250 can get +5hp more than carbed version with full-exhaust and matching ECU tuning. So ~40bhp perhaps.

To get baseline before mods, do a top-speed run on your bike in stock form. What did you get?

39 hp might get You 113-114 real world mile per hour. It takes about 45 plus to go 120. I needed around 50 hp to go 123mph.
The top land speed record for a modified 300 ninja with a pro rider is 115 in a mile and a half.

Hmm, maybe... 210kph -10% for speedo-error = 189kph/117mph. Would still need about 55-60bhp for that. Was probably going downhill with tail-wind. :)

FI 250 can get +5hp more than carbed version with full-exhaust and matching ECU tuning. So ~40bhp perhaps.

To get baseline before mods, do a top-speed run on your bike in stock form. What did you get?

Yeah I was thinking that maybe it was downhill ,still downhill it can probably reach true 200kph/125mph,speedos all cheat btw and r6 might reach 299 but the real speed is like 250 from what I've seen in YouTube videos.

I don't have the bike yet but I am planing to buy it soon once I sell my 125 :D stock speed we all know is 160/110mph

2010 250
103mph gps tracked
consistently on the back straight at Mid-Ohio track
full area p system, tuned, and minor weight reduction
194lbs fully geared rider

2010 250
103mph gps tracked
consistently on the back straight at Mid-Ohio track
full area p system, tuned, and minor weight reduction
194lbs fully geared rider

Yup, that's exactly what I got too. Calibrated my Trailtech Vapor gauge with front-wheel rollout down to millimeter with rider in seat. Made sure front tyre was up to operating temp and pressure (80-90C @ 1.90-1.95 bar). Front straight at Thunderhill lasts 10-seconds (forever!), and if I can get good drive out T15, I can hit top-speed about 1/2-way down straight. Bad drive will hit top-speed 3/4 to end of straight. I weigh 20-lbs less, so might get up to speed faster, but top-speed will be exactly same. It's simply balance of aero-drag to power.

39 hp might get You 113-114 real world mile per hour. It takes about 45 plus to go 120. I needed around 50 hp to go 123mph.
The top land speed record for a modified 300 ninja with a pro rider is 115 in a mile and a half.

Yeah, listen to Racer X, he's got more experience with top-speed bikes than anyone else!!! :)

39 hp might get You 113-114 real world mile per hour. It takes about 45 plus to go 120. I needed around 50 hp to go 123mph.
The top land speed record for a modified 300 ninja with a pro rider is 115 in a mile and a half.

2010 250
103mph gps tracked
consistently on the back straight at Mid-Ohio track
full area p system, tuned, and minor weight reduction
194lbs fully geared rider

I see does the injection version do more?
Also has anyone checked this air filter https://www.dnafilters.com/product/Stage-2-and-3-Applications/Kawasaki/DNA-0002/AK-K2S12-S3/Kawasaki-Ninja-250-R-(08-13)-DNA-High-Performance-Air-Box-Kit-Stage-3 ?They say that it gives around 5-6 horse power I am curious though if they mean combined with an full exhaust system

Filter by itself? not likely. I dyno-tested K&N's version of similar filter and got nothing over factory filter and airbox. Even dyno-test with no filter at all and nothing gained. Aside from tiny snorkel inlet to airbox, there's nothing to be gained with intake-mods.

Yes EFI version can get more (+9hp), but you must have ALL mods done at once and do dyno-tuning to adjust fuel & ignition-maps optimally (or dyno-tune after each mod). For example, bone-stock Ninja 300 can get +4hp just by re-mapping factory ECU and no hardware upgrades (factory mapping way too rich). Area-P has gotten 250FI to ~39-40bhp with all mods: full-exhaust, pod-intakes, minor head port & polish, and cams along with dyno-tuning to tie it all together.

Dyno-tuning is most important part of upgrades. Every bike is different with production-variations and different levels of wear & tear. Optimum fuel & ignition-maps will be different with exact same mods. Some bikes with just perfect set of tolerances will end up with more power for same mods as others with different tolerances and wear. Only dyno-tuning will bring each one to its max potential.

Filter by itself? not likely. I dyno-tested K&N's version of similar filter and got nothing over factory filter and airbox. Even dyno-test with no filter at all and nothing gained. Aside from tiny snorkel inlet to airbox, there's nothing to be gained with intake-mods.

Yes EFI version can get more (+9hp), but you must have ALL mods done at once and do dyno-tuning to adjust fuel & ignition-maps optimally (or dyno-tune after each mod). For example, bone-stock Ninja 300 can get +4hp just by re-mapping factory ECU and no hardware upgrades (factory mapping way too rich). Area-P has gotten 250FI to ~39-40bhp with all mods: full-exhaust, pod-intakes, minor head port & polish, and cams along with dyno-tuning to tie it all together.

Dyno-tuning is most important part of upgrades. Every bike is different with production-variations and different levels of wear & tear. Optimum fuel & ignition-maps will be different with exact same mods. Some bikes with just perfect set of tolerances will end up with more power for same mods as others with different tolerances and wear. Only dyno-tuning will bring each one to its max potential.
The company is greek so I am going to ask them when I buy the bike(although I think they have said that in an interview that just with the air filter you get horspower) cause I was thinking to combine that boxing air filter with full exhaust .

All these horsepower increase I am curious will it also affect the fuel consumption?

Hahah, get promise of money-back guaranty from filter company. I'd like to see dyno-chart with 5-6hp gain from just air-filter. :)

yes, will have more fuel-consumption. But that depends upon how often you use extra HP, full-throttle. If you ride conservatively, should have similar consumption as before.

I will say that filter looks really good. As for five hp. No it won’t.

From about a hundred hours of dyno testing over about ten years, all air filters rob between .5 and 2 hp depending on the exhaust and engine set up. No air filter at all is the best for power. Not great for the engine. But that’s is what I found.

Hahah, get promise of money-back guaranty from filter company. I'd like to see dyno-chart with 5-6hp gain from just air-filter. :)

yes, will have more fuel-consumption. But that depends upon how often you use extra HP, full-throttle. If you ride conservatively, should have similar consumption as before.

I will ask for a chart just for curiosity although they have for an xtx 660 as an example.

Some noob questions cause I am confused

If I buy a full exhaust do I need a remap and a power commander?
If I combine different air box filter,full exhaust will it hurt the bike in the long run in it's longevity?

Nobody?:o

If I buy a full exhaust do I need a remap and a power commander?
If I combine different air box filter,full exhaust will it hurt the bike in the long run in it's longevity?

Yes, any airflow changes to system will no longer match what’s programmed into ECU. While fuel-map is overly rich and MAP-sensor can be used for slight adjustments, the extra 22-25% more flow than stock will be beyond system’s ability to adjust. You will definitely need PC and lots of dyno-tuning to obtain all extra power possible.

Yes, pod-filters do not filter as cleanly as OEM filter. This has been proven multiple times with studies from fleet operators (trucks and cabs), that switched to K&N filtere as cheaper alternative to OEM filters. Used-oil-analysis shows more silicon (dirt) in oil and higher levels of engine metals.

I use K&N filters on my Porsche race car. While there is a small dyno-measured power-gain (~6hp on 400bhp engine) there is also increased wear and I have to replace rings every 2-3yrs and do complete rebuild every 5-6 yrs due to worn cylinders.

Yes, any airflow changes to system will no longer match what’s programmed into ECU. While fuel-map is overly rich and MAP-sensor can be used for slight adjustments, the extra 22-25% more flow than stock will be beyond system’s ability to adjust. You will definitely need PC and lots of dyno-tuning to obtain all extra power possible.

Yes, pod-filters do not filter as cleanly as OEM filter. This has been proven multiple times with studies from fleet operators (trucks and cabs), that switched to K&N filtere as cheaper alternative to OEM filters. Used-oil-analysis shows more silicon (dirt) in oil and higher levels of engine metals.

I use K&N filters on my Porsche race car. While there is a small dyno-measured power-gain (~6hp on 400bhp engine) there is also increased wear and I have to replace rings every 2-3yrs and do complete rebuild every 5-6 yrs due to worn cylinders.
What about only remapping the stock ECU?Also a lot of exhausts brands they say that you don't need any tuning and they are ready to go,I read that you only to reset the battery when putting the new exhaust

That’s marketing to sell more exhausts. If no remapping is needed, then they don’t provide any improvement over stock either.

ANY change to system that’s benefical, as in providing more airflow, REQUIRES remapping ECU. There’s no way around laws of physics, more power require more airflow, and more air requires more fuel. Even with stock exhaust, remapping ECU on dyno will give you +10% more power as well. However, many of adjustments are in opposite directions. Typically you add more fuel in high-end/high-load areas of map, yet need to remove fuel in mid-range/low-load areas.

Yes, remapping factory ECU is best solution. Here’s software that will let you do it. Still need dyno to determine which way to adjust every single data point on 3D map. Best to find eddy-current load-dyno that can hold engine at each LOADxRPM location on map to get accurate AFR reading. Every single bike is different with different manufacturing tolerances and different levels of wear and tear. Pre-made “flash” maps or maps from other bikes will not be optimised for your bike.

https://www.woolichracing.com/products/kawasaki/ninja-250-ex250r/kawasaki-ninja-250-ex250r-ecu-flashing.aspx

That’s marketing to sell more exhausts. If no remapping is needed, then they don’t provide any improvement over stock either.

ANY change to system that’s benefical, as in providing more airflow, REQUIRES remapping ECU. There’s no way around laws of physics, more power require more airflow, and more air requires more fuel. Even with stock exhaust, remapping ECU on dyno will give you +10% more power as well. However, many of adjustments are in opposite directions. Typically you add more fuel in high-end/high-load areas of map, yet need to remove fuel in mid-range/low-load areas.

Yes, remapping factory ECU is best solution. Here’s software that will let you do it. Still need dyno to determine which way to adjust every single data point on 3D map. Best to find eddy-current load-dyno that can hold engine at each LOADxRPM location on map to get accurate AFR reading. Every single bike is different with different manufacturing tolerances and different levels of wear and tear. Pre-made “flash” maps or maps from other bikes will not be optimised for your bike.

https://www.woolichracing.com/products/kawasaki/ninja-250-ex250r/kawasaki-ninja-250-ex250r-ecu-flashing.aspx
Seem pretty expensive ,can't they tune in some dyno shop the bike only if I go with a full exhaust air filter?Do I have to buy that powercomander too?

Yes, cost is because you are buying license from Woolich to retune ECU. That is actually cheap to own your own software. Dyno shops often use Woolich software, but you still need to purchase one license from Woolich to tune one ECU.

PC doesn't work anywhere nearly as well since it's piggyback outside of ECU. Also doesn't let you adJust as many settings inside ECU. PC only allows you to make fueling adjustments. You'll also need to purchase extra ignition module. Which is other half of tuning. There's also A LOT of problems from installing PC, starting issues, stumbling problems, runs worse than stock, etc. Do internet search for "power commander problems" and you'll find plenty. A lot of people rip out PC and go back to stock or go with re-programming ECU to match upgades.

Woolich gives you access to everything INSIDE of ECU for maximum performance. No need to install additional hardware.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=19fcx7_bqenaXu-Vg9rmn9EnCnI3cJUXJ

Yes, cost is because you are buying license from Woolich to retune ECU. That is actually cheap to own your own software. Dyno shops often use Woolich software, but you still need to purchase one license from Woolich to tune one ECU.

PC doesn't work anywhere nearly as well since it's piggyback outside of ECU. Also doesn't let you adJust as many settings inside ECU. PC only allows you to make fueling adjustments. You'll also need to purchase extra ignition module. Which is other half of tuning. There's also A LOT of problems from installing PC, starting issues, stumbling problems, runs worse than stock, etc. Do internet search for "power commander problems" and you'll find plenty. A lot of people rip out PC and go back to stock or go with re-programming ECU to match upgades.

Woolich gives you access to everything INSIDE of ECU for maximum performance. No need to install additional hardware.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=19fcx7_bqenaXu-Vg9rmn9EnCnI3cJUXJ

Ok thanks for the info