Hello, I changed the tires my self and I can get everything done with my very simple tools, until I have to put air in the tires and seat the bead (or however it's called).

Even the air pump at the gas station set to 50 lbs doesn't do it, so I had to go the shop and ask the guy to do it for me.

Last time I did it (last week), the guy at the shop told me he put it to 65lbs on the front tire, and that the had to accommodate a bit the rear to make it seat.

I have a harbor freight compressor that I paid less than $200 for. It has no problem seating any of the beads on my tires. I doubt I've ever gone over 80psi to seat a bead. Here's a tip though: keep a spray bottle of water/dish detergent handy to lube the rim and tire. As you are applying pressure, spray the area that needs to seat in. It lubes and helps seal as you go. If it's being particularly obstinate, bounce the wheel on the ground or give it a whack with a rubber mallet. This doesn't do much, but it relieves some frustration at zero harm to anything.

Oh, and keep your fingers away from that bead! :)

It's certain technique/process thing:


1. after getting tyre onto rim, squirt soapy water along both tyre beads, helps seal and slide tyre over rim-bead.

2. shove tyre down as much as you can all around on bottom side (make sure not to lay rim on brake-disc). This seals bottom bead on rim.

3. apply air while lifting tyre up to seal upper bead. If you have 3 hands, hold tyre at tread on both sides near valve-stem and lift. This seals upper bead against rim keeps air inside tyre and >POP< keep your fingers clear!!!

Thanks! Will keep those tips in mind for the next set.

It also helps to have the new tire nice and warm.

I find a diy CO2 puncture repair kit works. Get tyre ready with lube as per above, remove valve core. Then fit CO2 adaptor to the valve. When you are ready screw in a CO2 capsule, instant high pressure release, one or 2 capsules pops it on perfectly. Remove CO2 parts, insert valve core & inflate tyre ��

bead lube + compressed air

I have seen people dip a tire brush into some soap and water and run it around the seat of the tire before attempting to do this

I find a diy CO2 puncture repair kit works. Get tyre ready with lube as per above, remove valve core. Then fit CO2 adaptor to the valve. When you are ready screw in a CO2 capsule, instant high pressure release, one or 2 capsules pops it on perfectly. Remove CO2 parts, insert valve core & inflate tyre ��

Ah yes, that's step I forgot. Valve-core is usually removed already when changing tyres. Really helps gets higher volume of air through quickly to beat the leaking/escaping amount. I've also used these mini air-compressors, but have to really lift up tyre evenly so it seals upper bead.

https://rennlist.com/forums/attachments/parts-marketplace/694468d1357906316-porsche-tire-air-compressor-ac2.jpg

here's ultimate tip....


https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1BotY5_ZjITjqqd7gKgpUdQDd0zvgg-aU

LOL that picture is out'a this world ! I could just see that ! ....
...
Anyway I use 2"x4" boards about 24" long to lay the tire on ( not the rim)after soaking them good with a sprey bottle of heavy soap and water (about 50/50 mix of dish soap and water) then I lay the tire on the boards and push the center down of the wheel , it may take more boards to get enough height but you get the idea usually I will stand on the center of the rim just to get the tire on the one side real good.... then rotate the rim and tire to get all of it seated on the one side.
then flip the tire over and apply more soap and water and then attach the air hose without the valve core in there... if it won't seat up imediately simply put it back on the boards ( tire, not the rim.) and press gently to get the bead to come up to the rim... this always works for me.... never had it fail.
on car tires I have had to resort to a ratchet strap and place it in the center of the tread and ratchet it down till the beed comes in contact with the rim then air it up....... once it pops on stop with the air and take the strap off !
and then put the air in it again...
Most of my life I've had tubed tires on bikes so this isn't a problem usually
but some Knobbies can be a real pain to get on there correctly, again lots of soap and water inside and out so the tube is lubercated real good, this also helps when putting a tube in to a tire half on the rim... put a bit of air in the tube and soak it down real good with soap and water, and squirt the inside of the tire as well then push in the tube all the way around with your fingers
make sure you have no wrinkles in the tube and the valve core is through the rim and held by a valve core nut on the outside, then use your tire irons to put the rest of the tire onto the rim , start with the valve core and have the nut just on the end of the valve core, not tightened up ! push the tire into the rim there and work your way around the rim being careful not to go any deeper with the tire irons than is absolutely necessary or you'll poke a hole in the tube ! ...once you get that bead on your all set, but air it up with out the valve core in it at least one time to get any wrinkles out of the tube
when your flopping the tire back and forth the tube can get under the bead so watch for that , you don't want the tube anywhere around the beed when you air it up the first time !
make sure the valve core is straight and then Blast some air into it if the tire looks like it's on there right then go ahead and put in the valve core and do the final airing up.....

I like to put about half the air in the tire and then bounce the tire and rim all the way around the rim to help seat the tire on the rim then finally fill it up.
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that's how I do it...:thumbup:
Bob......

Just remember when you say soap, you really mean car wash right !

Whats the difference? Salt which is the main component of dish washing soaps. Car wash is salt free. Don't put salt in your wheel it promotes corrosion!

Tire mounting lubes tend to work better than most soaps.

Tire mounting lubes tend to work better than most soaps.

...assisting with effortless mounting and seating of the bead

Using it....I've actually mounted tires on to rim, hands only, without any use of levers. Amazing stuff, reinvents meaning of the word slippery.

Using it....I've actually mounted tires on to rim, hands only, without any use of levers. Amazing stuff, reinvents meaning of the word slippery.

In some stubborn cases it's almost a requirement.

Anyway I use 2"x4" boards about 24" long to lay the tire on ( not the rim)after soaking them good with a sprey bottle of heavy soap and water (about 50/50 mix of dish soap and water) then I lay the tire on the boards and push the center down of the wheel , it may take more boards to get enough height but you get the idea usually I will stand on the center of the rim just to get the tire on the one side real good.... then rotate the rim and tire to get all of it seated on the one side.
then flip the tire over and apply more soap and water and then attach the air hose without the valve core in there... if it won't seat up imediately simply put it back on the boards ( tire, not the rim.) and press gently to get the bead to come up to the rim... This is awesome idea! Easier to press on rim so 2nd bead is seated and sealed evenly! No need for 3-hands trying to lift tyre. I'm gonna try this next time! Thanks for tip!!! :) :clapping:

If you have an air compressor with the tank, there also are open flow air chucks without the valve that only work with valve stems removed. They allow much more air flow through them.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B017S44ARO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just remember when you say soap, you really mean car wash right !

Whats the difference? Salt which is the main component of dish washing soaps. Car wash is salt free. Don't put salt in your wheel it promotes corrosion!

Um no I mean SOAP... slippery stuff, if the salt bothers you wash it off later !
in 60 years of using it I've never had a problem with tire degradation...they ware out faster than they will crack.... LOL.... Dish soap is readily available
and is very slick when you use alot.... so I stick by what I said ! HAHAHAHA!
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Bob.......

I used to have a 2"x6" triangle screwed together just for tire changes on tubeless motorcycle tires , that was bigger than the rim on most street bikes
with that , it had 3 points of contact with the tire rubber and pressed it on much easier, just press down on the rim to seat the one side real good then flip it over and lightly press on the rim while adding air and they almost always pop on.... occasionally I had to lay the triangle on 2"x4"s to get enough height so the hub couldn't touch the floor but that wasn't very often !( so making the triangle out of 2"x8" or 2"x10" boards would be smarter !)
something you should have in your Shop Danno ! , just hang it on the wall !
Paint it Red ! and people will ask what is that for ? HAHAHAHA
LOL.....
Bob..........

If you have an air compressor with the tank, there also are open flow air chucks without the valve that only work with valve stems removed. They allow much more air flow through them.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B017S44ARO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just use a normal chuck and it does the trick most of the time but those are great in a tire shop!
A small Propane tank of the 5 Gal. size makes a great Air cylinder,for remote airing up tires and seating of beads, with a Ball valve in the line and a larger 3/8" or better 1/2" air line. a propane tank like that is rated for 300 P.S.I
so putting 120 lbs of air in it is no worry at all. I have one I made up real quick a few years back just so I wouldn't have to dig out the air compressor and extension cord ! LOL....
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Bob......

It's certain technique/process thing:


1. after getting tyre onto rim, squirt soapy water along both tyre beads, helps seal and slide tyre over rim-bead.

2. shove tyre down as much as you can all around on bottom side (make sure not to lay rim on brake-disc). This seals bottom bead on rim.

3. apply air while lifting tyre up to seal upper bead. If you have 3 hands, hold tyre at tread on both sides near valve-stem and lift. This seals upper bead against rim keeps air inside tyre and >POP< keep your fingers clear!!!

Also suffering the same issue. Thanks for sharing the tips. :angel:

A ratcheting tie-down strap around the outside of the tire can be useful.

Another strategy...

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Another strategy...

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I had to resort to that method to seat the bead on some lawn tractor tires that were kinda crunched up in shipping.

Tried all my usual methods first including the ratchet strap and open air chuck.

First couple of tries with the ether I just lit the tire on fire, then I used a bit more ether and hit it with the air compressor at the same time. It seated the bead, but man did it stretch that tire out, I was afraid it was going to burst before I could get the air chuck off the valve stem.

On the lawn tractor it doesn't seem to have hurt anything, but I wouldn't want to use that method on a motorcycle used on the highway.

I bet the reason you experienced the tire stretching was because of the large volume in the lawn tractor tire... and all they really are is just rubber with minimal of belting a bike tire is much stronger ! I've seen that method done on car tires on youtube many times and have heard it said that it works on bike tires as well but the volume is much much lower on a bike tire... you'ed need to get the squirt just right with the either ... and to be honest I wouldn't want to try that on my bike tire their 2 times as expensive as a car tire and if the rim is painted it'll probably blister the paint.... but if nothing else works and it's your last option go for it ! LOL
..... I've used this method myself on really large tires simply because it's really the only method that works but with that much volume it's dangerous indeed
I know of a guy who was doing a 21" split rim and used either and it expanded so much the split rim part came off and sailed 150 ft in the air !
it could have killed him easy ! so it's not a method to screw around with !
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Bob......

I bet the reason you experienced the tire stretching was because of the large volume in the lawn tractor tire... and all they really are is just rubber with minimal of belting a bike tire is much stronger ! I've seen that method done on car tires on youtube many times and have heard it said that it works on bike tires as well but the volume is much much lower on a bike tire... you'ed need to get the squirt just right with the either ... and to be honest I wouldn't want to try that on my bike tire their 2 times as expensive as a car tire and if the rim is painted it'll probably blister the paint.... but if nothing else works and it's your last option go for it ! LOL
..... I've used this method myself on really large tires simply because it's really the only method that works but with that much volume it's dangerous indeed
I know of a guy who was doing a 21" split rim and used either and it expanded so much the split rim part came off and sailed 150 ft in the air !
it could have killed him easy ! so it's not a method to screw around with !
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Bob......

Always use a safety cage when mounting tires on split rims.

LOL yah but the tire in that pic is Not a split rim !
but I get the picture ! HAHAHAHA !
( i suppose it could be upside down though)
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I hate split rims ... big sledge hammers to brake the bead loose and then the pry bar to get the split ring off... those things are man eaters !
I only had to do 2 or 3 in the tire shop where I worked in Reno, Nv. but at least I had help that was the manager and he knew how to do them and was smart enough to be scared of the things !
split rims have to have tubes in them, and the guy I was talking about was TRYING to get it to go tubeless.... he thought if he could get it to bead up he would put gorilla snot in it to seal it up.... he thought wrong ! scared the hell out of him ! some times Ranch hands try to take the cheap way out too often
and to their detriment !
..... you've not lived till you have to change a rear tire on a large tractor that has a TON of water sodium mix in it.... if it tries to fall over you just run !
takes a good tractor to lift one of those ! HAHAHHA
.....we have it easy now days boys !
...
Bob.......

I had a tire for my Dodge van that had gotten squashed narrow from being stacked with other tires above it, pushing down on it for a while. After trying tons of stuff like straps around it, I found that putting a loop of foam pipe insulation between the tire bead and the rim on one side let it hold enough pressure to seat the other bead. Then I took out the pipe insulation and pulled up on the tire, and the top bead seated.

This stuff:

Howdy Jim !
I have heard of that method but never had the cause to use it My triangle was big enough to handle all the Toyota tires I could throw at it....
it probably worked better on them than it did for the bike tires as the triangle of wood only touched the outside 2" of the car tire and that pushed up the rubber real evenly....
on the bike tire it hit right in the middle of the tire.... it would of course be better if it was on the outside edge of the tire.... but wadda' ya want for a quickly made solution... LOL
.....
what did you do put a rope through the center of that foam strip and then tie it up tight ?
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Bob....

I have heard of that method but never had the cause to use it
You have? I hadn't heard of it before I did it. I tried a piece of garden hose first but it wasn't thick enough to fill the gap. Then I looked around for something bigger and saw my leftover foam insulation.

Yes I saw an article in Popular mechanics many decades ago when tubeless tires first came out on all the methods used to inflate those pesky things...
it did have the water pipe insulation in it and recommended 1/2" type....
that is where I got the idea to make the triangle ! Handy information in those things !
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I just finished putting on a back rack on the Triumph 750.... it's nice and solid
I used 3/8" bolts to hold it on with LOL.... ....my clutch plates are supposed to be here today..... I suppose I should soak them all in oil for 24 hrs Right?
....
the previous owner told me he put Mineral oil in that thing for the winter time riding.... WHY would anyone do that ??? it's not a tested oil that can withstand pressure is it ?
.... that and then 10W40 oil and the manual calls for 20W50.... I probably have a wore out bike because of that ! UGH ! OH well !!!!
... I also found I had the choke in the wrong position.... after I took off the air boxes..... and the carbs are out's sync pirty far.. you can hear click click as the throttles close ! UGH !!!
so when I get that all sorted it should run good I hope !
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later !
Bob.......

convert to EFI
then add turbo!

I won't do that but I may go with pointless ignition !!!!
....
Bob........