First: The easy way. Is anyone selling an 08+ ninja cup bike built to specs?

Second: The hard way (and likely much more expensive). How do I go about building one?

This is something I've been thinking about for about 6 months now, and after talking to people, searching on google, and even looking through the forums, I'm having a Really hard time finding good, up-to-date information. Things like: Which clip-ons, what tires do I run, what do I do for a shock (WSMC rules allow for an aftermarket shock), spring rates, fork valving, tires, rear-sets, brakes, gearing, chain, sprockets, and other things to remove or modify.

It seems like this sort of info should be easy to find, but I swear it's like there's a secret club of 250 racers and I'm not in it yet.

Useful information would be greatly appreciated; I'm trying to put a budget together for this thing and it's pretty hard when I don't even know what tires people are running.

I'm kinda sorta re-posting this from the kawasaki.org forum, but it seems like you guys may be able to help me more.

Thanks in advance :)

****, I totally posted this in the wrong section; can one of the mods move this to Ninjettes at Speed?

A bunch of the guys/gals here do the race thing.
Lots of info on how to outfit your bike too. Check out the DIY sticky in the tech section for all kinds of mods.

Welcome.. Enjoy building your lil ninja. Post pics for us.
I'm sure others will chime in.

PM Richard of Race Bike Rentals (http://www.ninjette.org/forums/member.php?u=87). You can get a lot of the race-upgrades like clip-ons, rear sets, brake lines, etc. from him. Good guy. Good luck! I hear a lot of people enjoy these little bikes on the track.

/moved to ninjettes at speed

Sweet. Thanks a lot :D

We had 25 Ninja 250s at the track today! I'll hit you up with answers in the AM. I'm pretty beat right now.

We had 25 Ninja 250s at the track today! I'll hit you up with answers in the AM. I'm pretty beat right now.

25! Looks like the 250s are becoming a track favorite. :thumbup:

It's not hard to put together a track ready 250 if your comfortable turning a wrench.

Basics to be done/what I use:

Tires - Bridgestone BT003 (there are several other good tires)
Forks - Racetech (springs, emulators, oil)
Shock - Penske (there are some cheaper alternatives)
Bodywork - Hotbodies (not the best but cheap)
Paint - Rustolium ($25 paint job)
Exhaust/Jetting - Sportisi (lots of options here)
Brake Pads - EBC HH
Safety Wire - Wire, plyers and a cheap drill press

Of course there is a ton of other stuff you can do but the above will give you a solid race bike.

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z193/Chester1469/250%20Track/PTTPThill_Feb2010/MF1A6384.jpg

It's not hard to put together a track ready 250 if your comfortable turning a wrench.

Basics to be done/what I use:

Tires - Bridgestone BT003 (there are several other good tires)
Forks - Racetech (springs, emulators, oil)
Shock - Penske (there are some cheaper alternatives)
Bodywork - Hotbodies (not the best but cheap)
Paint - Rustolium ($25 paint job)
Exhaust/Jetting - Sportisi (lots of options here)
Brake Pads - EBC HH
Safety Wire - Wire, plyers and a cheap drill press

Of course there is a ton of other stuff you can do but the above will give you a solid race bike.

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z193/Chester1469/250%20Track/PTTPThill_Feb2010/MF1A6384.jpg

Sweet. I'm actually an engine builder/machinist, so turning a wrench is no problem for me; actually holding back from building a fire breathing cheater motor is a bigger problem ;)

First: Why the sportisi exhaust? Does it make a little more power? And where can I buy one. I'm kind of leaning towards the Yosh pipes because I can get them at cost through Parts Unlimited.

Second: What do you think of the suspension with emulators and a penske.

Third: What can I remove and still be legal with Ninja Cup rules; IE, can I go through the wiring harness and yank everything that's unnecessary, can I cut down the subfame, can I shave frame tabs, etc. How far can I go before the guys at tech give me a thumbs down.

Lastly: How about chain and gearing. I'll probably be riding willow springs a lot, and I plan on using the lightest non o-ring chain I can get my hands on. What do you think for gearing on a track with long sweepers, and a big front straight?

Sean, Sean, Sean... slow down, there dude! First, read this: http://www.roadracingworld.com/news/article/?article=39473

We are all about affordable racing at WSMC in the Ninja Cup class. We have the tightest rules package in the country, which means you can't do much to your bike. You cannot remove material from the bike. It must retain all stock appendages and wiring. You may cut off the sidestand mount for safety purposes. You may not do anything inside the motor and you must run pump gas (not race pump gas).

That said, you can work on suspension, you can change hand and foot controls, and you can add a pipe. You may rejet the stock carbs. No airbox mods allowed.

As a minimum you should do the following for your first race weekend:

1. Race bodywork
2. Good tires: I recommend Bridgestone BT016s (available at the track)
3. Safety prep and safety wire according to the rulebook

That's it. This will get you through the school and you'll have a great time.

If you want to throw a few more bucks at the bike, you can add an exhaust and rejet. I recommend Area P or Totsubo for Willow Springs.

All the other goodies are available at the lowest prices in my store, without CA sales tax and free shipping: HotMotoStore.com

BUTTTTTT.... I prefer to see novices come out without spending much money and have fun first. Then, go back and start adding the fun stuff.

Hope that helps!

Forgot to add: Willow Springs likes a soft suspension setup. Keep your stock rear shock. Go to 15 weight oil in the front forks with stock springs. Keep your stock gearing. Jeff Tigert set the lap record on one of my stock rental bikes with this setup. Until you're doing 1:43s at Willow, you really shouldn't be messing with this stuff. You should be working on your riding.

Sweet. I'm actually an engine builder/machinist, so turning a wrench is no problem for me; actually holding back from building a fire breathing cheater motor is a bigger problem ;)

First: Why the sportisi exhaust? Does it make a little more power? And where can I buy one. I'm kind of leaning towards the Yosh pipes because I can get them at cost through Parts Unlimited.

Second: What do you think of the suspension with emulators and a penske.

Third: What can I remove and still be legal with Ninja Cup rules; IE, can I go through the wiring harness and yank everything that's unnecessary, can I cut down the subfame, can I shave frame tabs, etc. How far can I go before the guys at tech give me a thumbs down.

Lastly: How about chain and gearing. I'll probably be riding willow springs a lot, and I plan on using the lightest non o-ring chain I can get my hands on. What do you think for gearing on a track with long sweepers, and a big front straight?

1) Aftermarket exhaust is a little lighter and allows you to rejet for an increase in power. I went with Sportisi to save money. I can get a Yosh at cost+10 and even with that the Sportisi was $200 cheaper.

2) The stock suspension is under dampened and under sprung. The suspension upgrades make the bike ride like a race bike. While the stock suspension is adequate for track days you really should upgrade to get the most out of the bike, especially the forks.

3) I just race AFM so I can't help you with the Ninja Cup rules. Richard from Racebike Rentals should be able to help you with that. You can get the WSMC rulebook here (https://my.wsmcracing.com/ul/file/2010Forms/WSMC-10-Rulebook-Rev102.pdf).

4) I run a 428 chain/sprockets on all my 250s. Again, I've never raced Willow Springs on a 250 so perhaps Richard can help you with gearing. I would suspect that stock gearing would be a good place to start for the Big Track.

Richard, you beat me to it. Looks like we were typing at the same time. Looks like you've got a new racer to add to your grid.

We are all about affordable racing at WSMC in the Ninja Cup class. We have the tightest rules package in the country, which means you can't do much to your bike. You cannot remove material from the bike. It must retain all stock appendages and wiring. You may cut off the sidestand mount for safety purposes. You may not do anything inside the motor and you must run pump gas (not race pump gas).


I know I can remove the airbox snorkel; WSMC says so. I've actually been going over the rule book with a fine tooth comb for a few days now, and Im curious about some minor things. So are people leaving the headlight and taillight wiring in place? Turn signal wiring? The left bar switch box?

This thread kicks the :llama:'s ass!

This thread kicks the :llama:'s ass!

Yep. That's basically the point of it. Figure out every last painstaking detail of what goes into building a 250R to the limit of ninja cup rules, put a price tag on it, and then make the whole shebang into a snazzy sponsorship proposal.

Through my own research this is what I've been able to come up with in the past few days. Ignore the tire prices, I know that's nowhere near retail. I've got a special deal going.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...d=250544686216 495.00 Shipped Bodywork

Hardracing.com 699.00 + 21.00 shipping Ohlins shock

MTA 180.00x4 Shipped Bridgestone Bt-016 Tires

Parts Unlimited -30% on all prices minimum, free shipping 175.95 Part# 4101-0133 Vortex Front Stand
PU 598.95 Part# 1810-1465 Yoshimura full exhaust
PU 59.95x3 Part# R210-520-(43-45)-HA Renthal Aluminum Sprockets
PU 77.95X2 Part# D18520NZ120 D.I.D. non r-ring racing chains
PU 12.95 Part# K22-2782 Front Sprocket
PU 36.95x2 Part# 1721-0211 Brake Pads
PU 169.99 Part# FEGV-S3501 Racetech Emulator valves
PU 109.99x2 Shipped Part# FRSPS293880 & FRSPS293870 Racetech Fork Springs

Woodcraft-CFM $209 Woodcraft Rearsets
Woodcraft-CFM $180 Clip-ons
Woodcraft-CFM $13 Shipping



Sub-total $3,750ish

This is where I'm at budget wise right now; obviously it's not complete, but minus the cost of a wrecked 08+ninja, I think that it's pretty close to what it would actually cost to build the bike.

Thoughts?

Looks like a comprehensive list. BTW, you can get some of those items much cheaper in my store, with free shipping and no sales tax.

Looks like a comprehensive list. BTW, you can get some of those items much cheaper in my store, with free shipping and no sales tax.

Are you a woodcraft dealer? I put retail prices up for all the Parts Unlimited stuff, and took the 30% off when I calculated everything.

Yes, I'm a Woodcraft dealer.