Hey all, I'm aiming to compete in the 2011 AFM ninja 250 production/superbike series here on the west coast, and lookin forward to getting my ass handed to me by way more talented riders! Definitely gonna be fun.

Anyways, I just wanted to start a thread for some input, if you see things goin wrong, or going right, I'd like to hear about it. Also wanted to provide some useful info for a couple projects I haven't really seen addressed on here yet.

I started with safety wiring most parts of my bike, it hasn't been completed yet though. Started on the front end, moving back. Safety wired the brake banjo bolts at the M/C and caliper, brake mounting bolts, and front axle bolt (theres a cotter pin on the nut side). Drilling all the holes with a #55 drill bit isnt actually all that hard, you just have to be careful, and make sure to buy about 10 of them as you're sure to break a few! Safety wire pliers are about $7 at harbor freight, and a spool of 0.025" wire is about $3, so with a little patience, you can do this yourself.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0098.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0097.jpg

More pics to come later when I finish wiring up all the stuff in the engine and rear axle. I ran outta time on that and helped TQ aka Nope install gsxr600 rear shocks on our bikes, which turns out to be pretty easy.

Need:
2006-2009 gsxr600 rear shock (9.4kg/mm spring rate, 320mm long)
12mm drill to drill out top and bottom shock mounts on the gsxr shock
Longer 12mm bolts for dogbones
Longer 12mm bolt for lower shock mount
4x spacers (or washers) for dogbones to clear spring

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0101.jpg

Before:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0113.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0114.jpg

Support the rear wheel when you take out the shock (makes it easier to put back in).

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0117.jpg

Grind down the rocker and the metal bushing to fit inside the lower shock mount.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0119.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0121.jpg

Cut off the bottom of the plastic spray pan at the step, making sure to leave the two squish nuts on each side to mount to the frame!

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0123.jpg

Re-install everything, looks right at home! The resevoir doesn't interfere with the air box at all, nor the battery! The compression and rebound adjusters are super easy to reach, so this is pretty awesome mod. I had to back off the compression damping about a half turn to make it feel more comfortable, and it turned out to only lower the rear wheel by about 15mm. Makes a world of difference though! Rebound damping is so nice!

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0124.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0125.jpg

Then got angry at the kickstand mount that lowsided me at streets of willow, so took the grinder to it!

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0126.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0134.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0135.jpg

Problem solved!

New rear shock feels great, went for a long test ride, and especially when you can find these used shocks on ebay for $20 SHIPPED, pick up a drill bit and some hardware, you definitely have a budget rear shock that is worlds better than the stock one.

Upcoming: Racetech 0.70 springs and gold emulators, Jardine GP-1 exhaust, jet kit, filter and rest of the safety wire, as well as general engine cleanup, weight reduction and cleanup, plus some kind of bodywork.

great thread - looking forward to more.

Nice writeup! I see your snorkel in there... make sure you keep it. AFM requires it :)

Need:
2006-2009 gsxr600 rear shock (9.4kg/mm spring rate, 320mm long)
12mm drill to drill out top and bottom shock mounts on the gsxr shock
Longer 12mm bolts for dogbones
Longer 12mm bolt for lower shock mount
4x spacers (or washers) for dogbones to clear spring

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0101.jpg



Rule 9.1.6i (linkage must remain stock).

wow...im getting a new shock now!

Very nice, not to be a nagging nancy.

But, in aviation school they taught us to safety wire around to the outer edge of the nut/bolt so it has tension when its at rest.

Not to nock your wiring, it's definitely super clean and has plenty of tension.
Just pointing out a small difference

http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee92/Cab305/wiring.jpg

Please don't take this sketch as a critique of your wiring, i made a bad wiring first to explain,
it looks nothing like this, this is just for sample.

You sure showed that kick stand who's boss.

Good write-up!

Personally, if you weigh more than 170 than I'd opt for a rear shock replacement but the OEM rear shock is fine. Just notch it up to the max. The issue isn't so much the rear but the front. Either thicker oil or a complete suspension job is best IMO.

Rule 9.1.6i (linkage must remain stock).

I was reading that... and emailed the AFM guys.

They said the intention was to prevent changing the suspension geometry, and since I am still using the stock rocker and stock dogbones, just replacing the rear shock, its allowable to space the linkage to clear the spring. So hopefully they dont hassle me, and if other racers bring it up, I'll explain that its still stock linkage geometry, just spaced apart to clear the new spring, changing nothing!

Yeah I'm aware my wiring isn't up to NASM 33540, but I did measure the minimum material sidewall requirement that it specifies (I work in aerospace also) and technically I should be alright. They didn't specify to wire per that spec, so I just did the best job I could without going nuts and having to disassemble everything!

I only weigh 150 lbs, so I'm pretty sure this rear shock & spring will be stiff enough! I've already found it to be a little too stiff for the street right now, but going to the track on friday to test it out!

The club won't care but you might get protested by another racer in the class.

It is a dumb rule. I submitted a rule change to allow linkage modification a couple of years ago but it was denied. My thinking is that changing dogbones is way cheaper than buying an adjustable length shock.

so the shock body is 15mm shorter than the stock unit? Can you provide the stock shock length? I don't know about messing with the aspect ratio of the bike that much. How is the sag? have you measured the ride height with you on it? maybe it is the same overall on the stiffer spring.

hmm still interested in this, from the info I could find on the web the 06-09 gsxr 600 rear shock is 320mm in length, which is supposed to be the same as the 250's stock. can you shed any light on this?

hmm still interested in this, from the info I could find on the web the 06-09 gsxr 600 rear shock is 320mm in length, which is supposed to be the same as the 250's stock. can you shed any light on this?

the shock length is like 4mm shorter than the ninja 250 shock (approx) and since there's about a 3.5:1 travel ratio from the swingarm to shock, it lowers the rear end about 15mm (measured from the back of the rear subframe to the tip of the rear adjuster bolt). Its really not even a noticable height difference, but a major chage in feel and ride quality.

I backed off the compression damping another quarter (for a total of 1/2 turn) and it feels just about right. Stiffer than the stock shock but not overly stiff.

Thanks for the reply and the nice pics.

I'm going to look into this some more and see whats going on with the geometry, it still doesn't make sense it was lowered that much.

On the safety wiring, take the tips of the wire pliers and curl the cut end into a ring. then the cut end is pointed back at the tie off point, and you will not slice your hand (or the inspectors) if you brush up against it.

Nice write-up on the gixer shock install.

-Sean

the shock length is like 4mm shorter than the ninja 250 shock (approx) and since there's about a 3.5:1 travel ratio from the swingarm to shock, it lowers the rear end about 15mm (measured from the back of the rear subframe to the tip of the rear adjuster bolt). Its really not even a noticable height difference, but a major chage in feel and ride quality.

Could be part of the reason you were dragging your kick stand. I run my shock about 9mm longer than stock which raises the rear over an inch. I don't need rearsets and use my kickstand on track days.

Rexbo
Good write up

Steve, I sent you a pm.

Need:
2006-2009 gsxr600 rear shock (9.4kg/mm spring rate, 320mm long)
12mm drill to drill out top and bottom shock mounts on the gsxr shock
Longer 12mm bolts for dogbones
Longer 12mm bolt for lower shock mount
4x spacers (or washers) for dogbones to clear spring

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0101.jpg


http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0125.jpg



It also appears that the two shocks (one on the ground and one installed) are different??

I guess the 06 - 07 gsxr 600/750 shocks has that little red cap (the installed one) and on the reservoir has that little knob.
08-09 one is the blue cap (uninstalled pic).

Does the little extra knob on the 06/07 rear shock is to refill nitrogen as compared to the later model (08/09) which doesn't have one??

I guess the 06 - 07 gsxr 600/750 shocks has that little red cap (the installed one) and on the reservoir has that little knob.
08-09 one is the blue cap (uninstalled pic).

Does the little extra knob on the 06/07 rear shock is to refill nitrogen as compared to the later model (08/09) which doesn't have one??

This is correct. The shocks are identical minus the nitrogen refill nipple.

2wheelguy: I was dragging the kickstand while tracking with the stock rear shock. This last track day with the new shock, I would definitely have hit it again, as I also was dragging my exhaust shield.

Speaking of track day, the new rear shock is AWESOME. Three of us were running it on our ninjas there, and we all came to the same conclusion that it worked WAY better than the stock one. We all backed off the compression damping about a half turn, while leaving the rebound at the original setting and found that it worked out really well.

The only downside is that installing it really just made my stock front forks feel even worse. With the amount of grip that the bt-003s have, and the amount of loading that I was putting into them, any bumps no matter how small would put the forks down onto the bumpstops and cause the front to chatter some. Even when there weren't bumps, the front end would feel somewhat floaty and disconnected, and not as progressive as it should feel when the tire began to chatter.

good to hear...can't wait to see what you do about the front suspension. There's no way to adjust the pre-load on the stock ones right?

GSXR front end swap. Done.

Do you have pics of the gsx-r front end swap?

Johnathan, you have board mail.

I do have pics but I'll post my own thread. This is a good thread that Steve has started.

Jeff I'll get back to you.

Thanks.

I do have pics but I'll post my own thread. This is a good thread that Steve has started.

Jeff I'll get back to you.

feel free to link the thread :thumbup:

To add to Steve's instructions:

1. Those dogbone spacers are 0.5" wide each, and that's exactly what you want. Also, it's ideal they have a flange like that to keep the steel sleeves centered inside the linkage. You could also just use a stack of washers here.

2. Grab some Nylock nuts for the longer bolts you buy. Typically hardware stores don't carry the fine pitch M12 bolts that the ninja uses, so the stock nuts won't work.

3. Go easy when drilling out the steel side of the GSXR shock as it'll be harder and heat up more. Use plenty of coolant and go a little bit at a time taking breaks so the rubber bonded around it doesn't cook.

Honestly, easy mod. We did this both in a machine shop (fly cutter, lathe, mill) and in the garage (hand drill, angle grinder) and the results were virtually identical. So you can definitely do this at home with 2 tools.

GSXR front end swap. Done.

sticks you directly into superbike yo

Damn straight, for maximum self inflicted pain.

GSXR front end swap. Done.


Why not just add spring & emulator or intiminator instead? It's cheaper. I heard a lot if hardcore racers got good results.

Because I get godmode braking.

Nice. Really like to see some pics &infos

gsxr front end swap. Done.

not production legal

Why not just add spring & emulator or intiminator instead? It's cheaper. I heard a lot if hardcore racers got good results.

John this is what the fast guys do. The other option is doing the ohlins front end kit which is over $1000 but it is awesome.

Because I get godmode braking.

This is true. Getting rid of one caliper = megabrakes. Also the fact that he got his front end complete for like $300 makes it about the same price as springs + emulators, only now you also get a 120 front wheel, way better brake caliper & MC, inverted forks, and adjustable compression + rebound not to mention they're GOLD

Also, clipons are way lower and the whole set up is just a tad lighter.
Aite posting a thread with a pic now.

Steve, keep building this thread up with your progress for other people interested in a Production Class race setup. Great start so far.

Here's my personal thread:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?p=233044#post233044

Here's my personal thread:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?p=233044#post233044

word. TQ is scary fast now at the track with that race slick front tire. I had to convince him to just romp on it harder to put more heat into it to get it to stick better. MAYBE i'll let him use my front tire warmer next time.

Now to jack the thread back, here's moar pics:

Front M/C banjo bolt:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0162.jpg

Rear M/C banjo:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0163.jpg

Now I gotta figure out how to wire these two bolts that hold it to the rearset... I dont think loctite is good enough

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0164.jpg

Rear Brake caliper banjo:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0165.jpg

Rear axle nut:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0168-1.jpg

Rear axle adjusters:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0167-1.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0169-1.jpg

Found some interesting things after going to chuckwalla racetrack last weekend! Dragging stock exhaust, definitely time to go:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0170-1.jpg

Also starting to crack my front brake rotor between the holes. Not a good sign! I guess I'll have to start carrying spares to the track!

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0171-1.jpg

I'm going to go back and take care of all the sharp ends on the safety wiring and probably re-do some of them to make them look cleaner or get a little tighter. Hopefully the emulator/spring installs will be coming up next, along with more engine safety wiring during phase 2 of the build...

Look into an aftermarket front rotor. It should be in the rules next season to allow them.

I didn't see mention. The rearsets did you make them yourself

I didn't see mention. The rearsets did you make them yourself

haha nah, they're the Sportisi X-race rearsets, and worth every penny. By far the best rearsets I've seen for the ninja out there. Peg-centric shifters, tons of adjustability, great quality and SOLID. No complaints whatsoever, just be sure to use loctite blue on everything so nothing rattles loose! Thanks Matt!

You haven't seen the new predators... Well neither have I but they're supposed to be really nice, and with a folding peg...

You haven't seen the new predators... Well neither have I but they're supposed to be really nice, and with a folding peg...

yeah saw those, but I'd feel bad crashing them they're so nice!

Steve why didn't you just leave me your bike for two weeks and let me have my way with it.

Also starting to crack my front brake rotor between the holes. Not a good sign! I guess I'll have to start carrying spares to the track!

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0171-1.jpg

I'm going to go back and take care of all the sharp ends on the safety wiring and probably re-do some of them to make them look cleaner or get a little tighter. Hopefully the emulator/spring installs will be coming up next, along with more engine safety wiring during phase 2 of the build...

Thats not the rotor itself cracking but the outer plateing chipping

Steve why didn't you just leave me your bike for two weeks and let me have my way with it.

because I don't want this bike to have emotional scars!

plus its more fun when you do it yourself... haha

its also more expensive

Picked up a used rear gsxr shock. I'm going to try this mod out :)

its also more expensive

haha dont worry matt I'll be buying more stuff from you soon

lol I know hurry up and get that bike ready all the 250's usually pit together. If I run I'm probably only going to do clubman a couple rounds.

So small setback... but hopefully everything comes out for the best. Some lady cut me off on the way to work this week, made a right hand turn onto the street I was on, cut across all 3 lanes to get into the center turn lane and totally didn't even see me in the far lane. Slammed hard on the brakes and the horn, got a good look at myself in her back quarter window about a foot away then the front wheel went over some of those reflective dots or a bump or something and locked up, putting me into the ground. She didnt even notice what happened until the garbage man on the side of the street honked at her and pointed at me standing in the middle of the road flipping her the bird.

Just got a nice bruise the shape of my cell phone on my leg, no blood or broken bones! Pretty lucky really. But the bad news is the bike needs some work and my helmet is garbage. Hopefully her insurance fixes everything and buys me new gear, because I have several witnesses who saw the whole thing happen and her cut across without even looking.

Fairings are done

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0190.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0183.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0173.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0182.jpg

Nice new rearsets are done also. As a testament to their beefyness, nothing actually broke or bent on the rearsets, except for the fasteners! The frame where the rearset attaches got bent in a bit, the levers and the peg will need replacement, but I think its definitely repairable.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0185.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0186.jpg

Helmet, jacket and my cell phone took most of the fall and amazingly enough my HTC EVO still works perfectly! Gotta give props to the cell phone case for acting as a hip slider for a while!

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0193.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0191.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0196.jpg

Unfortunately now comes the long process of haggling with insurance companies. Great. Oh well thats life on a motorcycle right?

Bummer! Glad you're OK...

Sorry about the mishaps dude. I'm sure her insurance will pick up that tap since she caused you to crash. It's time to use the money to get some nice parts :)

Nice toes, wrecksbo. Quit crashin.

Good news is the rear sets are still good. Plus you can gt some new ones at her expense :)

Good news is the rear sets are still good. Plus you can gt some new ones at her expense :)

haha thats what you consider a win-win

Gsxr shock measured against oem ninja 250 shock. It's about 5 mm shorter. Also how do you enlarge the top eye for the bolt to fit? Looks like it needs another 1mm enlargement.
Can the topeye sleeve comes out?

Gsxr shock measured against oem ninja 250 shock. It's about 5 mm shorter. Also how do you enlarge the top eye for the bolt to fit? Looks like it needs another 1mm enlargement.
Can the topeye sleeve comes out?

12mm drill bit go. Use lots of coolant. Or if you cant find a 12mm bit, use a 15/32" bit, and make a bunch of passes to make it wider so the fasteners can fit through.

Newb questions for you.

Please see attached image.

Also what are u going to do about your exhaust? Can I get the gsxr exhaust and swap it out? or do I have to change the whole exhaust system?

krunkfoo:

1) Black box: the dogbones are the long black skinny things that look like dog bones
2) Yellow Boxes: You are correct
3) Red boxes: Those are the spacers, and they're approx 1/2" thick
4) Pic #2: That is a sleeve in the rocker triangle where the lower shock attaches, that needs to get shaved down so it will fit into the lower shock fork (its too wide like in that picture)
5) Exhaust: I don't know what I'm going to do for exhaust yet, but no plans on using the gsxr exhaust. I'll be getting an aftermarket full system of some kind.

Randomwalk (john): you get that shock in yet?

Nope. Just bought a Lexus ls460 so kinda put my attention there instead of bike :D

Nope. Just bought a Lexus ls460 so kinda put my attention there instead of bike :D

WTF?

Now you are no longer my twin. :D

WTF?

Now you are no longer my twin. :D

it's a neccessary sacrify :D

So, you have the TT, 600, 250 and now the Leesux? :D

yup...i still like the 250 the best :D

yup...i still like the 250 the best :D

Damn yo! Good shiet! Wanna know something else? We have the same first name except mine's Jonathan. :p

Nevermind us guys, we're just making some e-love connection here. :lol:

hey everyone needs to find their love somewhere. Grats on the lexus btw, making it an early xmas present?

and mine just arrived in the mail :)

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0213.jpg

Also picking up another form of transportation later today... will update with new ride! Maybe this whole crashing thing isnt so bad after all!

Nice lid!

Dang...how much did you shell out for that?! :eek:

Dang...how much did you shell out for that?! :eek:

$560 shipped from cyclegear, they were having a 30% off shoei helmets sale this weekend so I figured its time :)

okay...just finished install the GSR shock...it's a handful for one person but not so bad if you have the right tool. Airtool/impact wrench & dremel to cut the plastic while everything is on the bike make things go a lot faster.

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff11/randomwalk101/Picture001-4.jpg

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff11/randomwalk101/Picture002-3.jpg

my 07 600rr also get some goodies...

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff11/randomwalk101/Picture003-2.jpg

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff11/randomwalk101/Picture005.jpg

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff11/randomwalk101/Picture004-1.jpg

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff11/randomwalk101/Picture006-1.jpg

Damn! merry xmas to you! haha that must have set you back

Steve pm me your mailing address so I can send you the free exhaust.

Would'nt using a gsxr shock lower the back? I hear from some experienced riders that it might upset the geometry of the bike and if anything the back should be raised.( sv shock)

So now I am confused...

It lowers the back about 15mm, which is a little over 1/2" measured at the VERY back tip of the brake light to rear swingarm. Sure it may make your steering SLIGHTLY slower, and could cause more interference problems with the kickstand and stock exhaust, but these are also only problems only the most ballsy riders on track days or racing would run into. And if they're racing, chances are they're willing to lower the front end, which pretty much offsets the effect of lowering the rear at the expense of hardware clearance.

Either way, its a really cheap way of getting a huge improvement in rear damping at an almost un-measurable performance expense for a normal rider vs a race-prepped rear shock.

IMO I'd rather spend $40 on a mod that gets me 90% of the performance a $500 mod would.

Just lower the front fork 15mm to compensate?

Sure why not. I dropped the front 12 mm just installing the sportisi clipons so that pretty much takes care of it!

Hey Rexbo

How's the rebuild going?
Got gsxr shock installed but haven't set it up yet.
How do you set the blue know and the nut inside? Is that for rebound (blue) and the small screw is damping?

Hey Rexbo

How's the rebuild going?
Got gsxr shock installed but haven't set it up yet.
How do you set the blue know and the nut inside? Is that for rebound (blue) and the small screw is damping?

The compression damping is the little set screw inside the blue nut, and the rebound damping is the screw on the lower fork mount (or is it the other way around?). Either way, they're labeled, so just go look at them haha. The big blue nut doesn't move (I don't think). As for preload, the spring perch is just threaded onto the shock body, so you can just loosen the jam nut and adjust preload by spinning the perch with a screwdriver and hammer.

Shop STILL has my bike, they're being slow as crap, and I think i'm gonna go over there and just take my bike back if they're too incompetent to fix it. I'm going into 2-wheel withdrawl.

Thx Rexbo. I have been busy installing the shock & cartridge on the 600rr so haven't mess with the gsxr shock. The gsxr preload, the spanner wrench on the ninja will work.

I posted a question on the Gixxer forum. It appears that big blue nut (or red in older model) is "adjustable".
Bottom is for rebound adj.
Up is compression high and low speed.

blue nut is for high speed compression damping. The screw inside that blue nut is for low speed compression damping. Bottom screw is for rebound damping. Case closed :D

blue nut is for high speed compression damping. The screw inside that blue nut is for low speed compression damping. Bottom screw is for rebound damping. Case closed :D

best $20 mod ever

Rexbo (Steve),
did you adjusted your rear preload at all? I checked/adjusted the rear yesterday and I had to back up the preload ring all the way up top. I was trying to get the sag to the recommended spec of 30-35 mm (street).

Rexbo (Steve),
did you adjusted your rear preload at all? I checked/adjusted the rear yesterday and I had to back up the preload ring all the way up top. I was trying to get the sag to the recommended spec of 30-35 mm (street).

have not, I just bolted it on and rocked out. I'll try to set all that stuff later when I have everything apart. Were you able to get correct sag?

GSXR spring is a little strong for the ninjette. I had to back the preload all the way back to get to the recommended sag of 30-35mm but it worked.

word. TQ is scary fast now at the track with that race slick front tire. I had to convince him to just romp on it harder to put more heat into it to get it to stick better. MAYBE i'll let him use my front tire warmer next time.

Now to jack the thread back, here's moar pics:

Front M/C banjo bolt:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0162.jpg

Rear M/C banjo:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0163.jpg

Now I gotta figure out how to wire these two bolts that hold it to the rearset... I dont think loctite is good enough

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0164.jpg

Rear Brake caliper banjo:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0165.jpg

Rear axle nut:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0168-1.jpg

Rear axle adjusters:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0167-1.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0169-1.jpg

Found some interesting things after going to chuckwalla racetrack last weekend! Dragging stock exhaust, definitely time to go:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0170-1.jpg

Also starting to crack my front brake rotor between the holes. Not a good sign! I guess I'll have to start carrying spares to the track!

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0171-1.jpg

I'm going to go back and take care of all the sharp ends on the safety wiring and probably re-do some of them to make them look cleaner or get a little tighter. Hopefully the emulator/spring installs will be coming up next, along with more engine safety wiring during phase 2 of the build...

What kind of racing slick are you using? where did you get them from? I am making my ninja track only.. should i go for a slick or \bt003rs?

Krunk - the OP looks like he's running Bridgestones, probably BT-003's. I ran those on my race bike and was very happy with them. The rear lasted the entire season. 18 races plus practice sessions. :cool:

Yes he has the 003rs on the bike. The front leaves a little to be desired. So I'm going to fix that for him.

Yes he has the 003rs on the bike. The front leaves a little to be desired. So I'm going to fix that for him.

if you insist. :thumbup:

But yeah, last track day, I didnt push it particularly hard, but still wasn't a huge fan of the 003rs front tire. I'm going to give it another chance though after I upgrade my front forks because it may just have been that the new tires had enough grip to pretty much keep the forks bottomed out all day, making the tires seem lacking.

TQ (nope on here) was running a bridgestone (i think) front slick, but he's got a 120 width tire due to the gsxr front end.

So I finally got my bike back from the shop yesterday, and everything is all fixed. Now to get my deductible back from the other person's insurance company...

Back to sexy status!

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0352.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0355.jpg

Just waiting on some stuff from Matt & my bank account to recover a bit... and phases 2 & 3 begin :)

ALSO: Nope came across this: http://www.cvmaracing.com/Home_Page.html and they have a 250 supersport class, which basically uses the AFM 250 production rules, 6 races this year, so I guess it looks like I'll be doing more racing!

looks new again.

Steven I'll hit you up on Facebook later.

took the bike to the dyno today just to see what its lookin like, and I dont have a dyno chart right now (their printer was broken!) but they're going to email me a copy on monday. So baseline right now is 27.2hp @ 10,800 rpm, which definitely isn't bad for a bone stock bike. Next weekend will be a complete teardown of the moto, finish safety wiring and weight reduction!

Bike looks good! Glad to see it back together! What size sproket ar you running?

your bike looks great man,
Im thinking of doing some safety wire on a few bolts on my bike, the bolt for my exhaust mount recently rattled loose and dissapeared...

..also would doing the gsxr rear shock on my street bike be a good idea? id love to take it to the track one day but for now its how i get to school and work..

your bike looks great man,
Im thinking of doing some safety wire on a few bolts on my bike, the bolt for my exhaust mount recently rattled loose and dissapeared...

..also would doing the gsxr rear shock on my street bike be a good idea? id love to take it to the track one day but for now its how i get to school and work..

Thanks! Yeah the GSXR shock would be just fine, I've found it to be no worse on the street than the stock one.

So another few more photos & progression here. Installed the temporary exhaust (jardine gp-1), my Racetech forks (0.7 kg/mm springs with gold emulators and 15w oil), the BRT TIS non-programmable, and removed pretty much everything that didn't need to stay on the bike.

The garage before:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0362.jpg

The garage during (extra ass-crack plz):

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0368.jpg

Exhaust installed:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0369.jpg

Turns out spacing the rear dogbones apart to fit the gsxr rear shock interferes with this exhaust pipe, so we had to use some spacers and flip around the lower shock mount bolt to get more clearance.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0367.jpg

Goodbye thermostat:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0380.jpg

Hello giant mess:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0381.jpg

Top secret calculations
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0394.jpg

Only did a very short road test but I'm definitely happy so far! The exhaust is SUPER loud but sounds good. Riding this thing on the street would be a recipe for angry neighbors. The front forks feel totally different. Gone is the squishy front end that is great for potholes, enter a tight and planted front end that just feels great. Track update will be needed for this one, but I have high hopes. TIS makes the bike idle higher (advanced timing) so I'll need to turn that down a tad, and I'll need to mess with the jetting some to get it right. More dyno time coming soon.

Last things on the list: Race bodywork, AMB transponder, brake pads, and supercorsa sc1 front tire, then finish safety wiring everything. So close to finish, and first race of the season is March 13! Coming right up!

I hate you for getting a free set of body work.

I hate you for getting a free set of body work.

hey if you order it, you can get a free set too!

I don't need two. I only need an upper and lower till my body work gets over here in July.

lots of goodies on this thread... i can see somethings that i want, minus anything that breaks specs for the class i want to run

Some more goodies arrived!

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0458.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0459.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0460.jpg

Will attempt to test fit in a bit!

EDIT: Test fitted, they're pretty nice! They don't snap together like OEM pieces do, but thats unrealistic for fiberglass race bodywork anyway, but just sitting on the bike, everything lines up pretty nicely! I may not even use the stock headlight support just because it's bulky and doesn't use two of the stock mounting points for the race fairing. Time to get an aluminum one made! I didn't fit the belly pan yet, since I have no dzus fasteners on hand to hold it up. More incoming soon.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0461.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0462.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0463.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0464.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0465.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0468.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0470.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0472.jpg

Will attempt to test fit in a bit!

I'm itching to pull the trigger on these, especially since they are local. Can't wait for your update!

What company for the body bits? They look good.
I've got Armorbodies on mine and like 'em. :thumbup:

What company for the body bits? They look good.
I've got Armorbodies on mine and like 'em. :thumbup:

Hotbodies... good enough and VERY cheap (2 sets for ~$620!)

Also a sneak peek exhaust vid: (Note: this is just my practice exhaust, I've got a different one that I'll be using for races to quiet it down some, and also rep for Matt!)

Jardine GP-1, BRT-TIS, stock airbox & snorkel w/filter, no jetting yet, cold startup. Notice that the exhaust is actually rattling the camera!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8c5qll421lk

Hotbodies are good for racers on a budget. But they do crack and chip easily. Once you get them painted it no longer lines up...weirdest thing. That hasn't happened to my Sharkskinz bodywork but for the hotbodies it did.

I have tons of reviews on the body work all over the net. LOL

BTW, nothing beats Sharkskinz...best quality EVA!

Update: New racer school is only 2 weeks away and this is my last free weekend to get stuff ready for like the next 2 months, so getting work done is the name of the game! Decided to keep my sorta bent stock front fairing support because it would make installation of the steering damper super easy! All the fairings are painted, just need to install the jet kit (in process right now), paint the gas tank, and get the front windscreen in the mail (monday), then get it on the dyno.

GSXR-1000 non-electronic steering damper on eBay: $20 shipped
37mm fork tube steering damper bracket on eBay: $34 shipped

Maybe its overkill, but if it hurts anything, I can always take it off. Also notice that I had to zip tie the brake line so it stands away from the bracket, cant have things like that rubbing! Installation as as easy as just drilling a hole in the top of the fairing stay, putting a locknut on the other side and bolting it on with a spacer so that it doesnt rub against the stay.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0477.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0479.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0481.jpg

Update again: Re-jetted and cleaned the carb out this morning, what a pain in the ass. Went off Matt & kkim's recommendations of #98 main jet, mix screws 2.5 turns out, and it seems to run great. Of course this was based off one blast down the block and back. Had to adjust the idle up a little bit, but nothing big. Still need to repaint the tank, but its full of gas right now, so I'll wait till I burn off more gas so its easier to handle. Steering damper might be too stiff, but we'll see. I'll take it to the dyno this week to see what it putting out.

Front weight(lbs): 156.8
Rear Weight (lbs): 160.6
Total: 317.2 lbs WET (full tank of gas, full oil & coolant)

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0483.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0484.jpg

Awesome thread, Im going to start safety wiring next month probably. Im planning on getting my ninja ready to run for 2011 SE WERA superstock. She is stripped down right now and I have been trying to budget stuff to make it somewhat cheap (especially with the wedding coming up in may).

I still need to get gear together too, aside from the suit (my trackskinz that I picked up should be good for now.)

As far as the GSXR damper goes, how is it lock to lock? Im thinking of going that route due to WERA requiring them.

I still need to get gear together too, aside from the suit (my trackskinz that I picked up should be good for now.)

As far as the GSXR damper goes, how is it lock to lock? Im thinking of going that route due to WERA requiring them.

Craigslist and ebay are your friends!

Damper goes lock to lock just fine without binding up! I had to adjust the clamp outboard a little bit to get it to have more travel when turning left, and had to zip tie the throttle cables so they wouldn't pinch, but thats about it. Definitely a really easy mod.

There is no need for a dampner on this bike. I also know of no wera racers running a fully functional dampner. They just drain the oil and slap them on to abide by the rules.

There is no need for a dampner on this bike. I also know of no wera racers running a fully functional dampner. They just drain the oil and slap them on to abide by the rules.

yeah rode it around a bit more, and it just seems to be overkill. I'll try it on a track day and see if I like it there, otherwise, f it.

There is no need for a dampner on this bike. I also know of no wera racers running a fully functional dampner. They just drain the oil and slap them on to abide by the rules.

Thats what I figured, no need spending 500 bucks on one.

Steve, I noticed your LH handle bar switch housing is missing what are you doing about the choke cable? Then again if allowed to warm up suitably before the race I don't see it as a big deal.

racers usually run a wire for the carb to the side of the bike with a washer on it so they can pull it.

There is no need for a dampner on this bike. I also know of no wera racers running a fully functional dampner. They just drain the oil and slap them on to abide by the rules.

That's just plain stupid, and overkill.

racers usually run a wire for the carb to the side of the bike with a washer on it so they can pull it.

just another use for a zip tie in my case hahah but yes, thats the solution, its really easy to just reach down and pull on the zip tie to keep it from stalling out on first warmup.

As for steering damper, I can always take it off (pretty easily) if I don't like it, so its not an issue for me. Neither AFM nor CVMA require it, but i know WERA does so I might as well try it out. In all the track days I've done on the bike before, I've never had a tankslapper or even front end twitchyness, so it will probably turn out as a wasted experiment. In the meantime, it can sit there and look cool.

I really like this build thread. It makes me wish I took more pictures during my build.

What are you guys and girls using for case covers, or do you need them in the states?

How did you safety wire the rear caliper bolts? Got any pics? I took your advise and bought the Hotbodies 2 for 1. Great deal!

What are you guys and girls using for case covers, or do you need them in the states?

Case covers are not necessary to race WERA. I've never seen any for the 250.

The 250 doesn't use them.

How did you safety wire the rear caliper bolts? Got any pics? I took your advise and bought the Hotbodies 2 for 1. Great deal!

New gen or old gen?

How did you safety wire the rear caliper bolts? Got any pics? I took your advise and bought the Hotbodies 2 for 1. Great deal!

I drilled out the top of each one of the allen heads and just did a normal safety wire deal... I'll post some pics up soon.

Case covers are not necessary to race WERA. I've never seen any for the 250.

Thanks : ) Looks like I do not need it here either.

UPDATE:

Raced with the new CVMA racing series this past weekend and it was a TON of fun. Ran there with Nope, Nemesis and Peanut and two more (forget names!) for the races, then saw Dean (duno forum name!) on friday, so it was a good turnout. There were 6 of us on grid for the 250 supersport class, which was pretty fun, and there are some fast guys out there, buuuut not quite fast enough! :)

Anyway, bike was awesome. The gsxr rear shock and racetech front forks make all the difference in the world. Tons of grip, didn't even slide it at all the whole weekend and I was pushing pretty hard. Switched from the BT-003RS front tire to the Pirelli, and all I can say is that Matt was right, and I should have listened to him earlier. Much more grip, not a single complaint or loss of grip at any point on the track, warmed up quickly and really didn't grain at all! The rear BT-003 never had a complaint, only stepped out just slightly once because I was off line and onto some rough stuff, but even then was very progressive. Rear preload is probably a little stiff, so before next time that needs to get reset, and possibly add a some rebound damping. The steering damper was nice to have on, but definitely not necessary, though it was pretty fun getting set into a turn with nearly knee down and pretty much being able to take your hands off the bars and know it will be stable. Unfortunately it rattled off halfway through sunday morning so it got taken off and the bike felt a little more nimble.

RACING: Saturday 250 supersport race, I somehow managed to land pole position with a 2:14:9 qualifying time in practice, with Nemesis right next to me in 2nd. They gridded the 250s in front of a lightweight formula class and started us all at once, so the formula bikes shot off ahead. On the start I managed to BARELY beat out the other two to pile into corner #1 (unfortunately missing peanut's epic wheelie), but since I had just come off a previous race in another class, my tires were still on the cooker and I could get on race pace immediately. It felt really good, and I was doing about 90% of maximum so I didn't wad it up on the first lap, but nobody came to challenge me so I kept cruising at that pace. Rest of the race was pretty uneventful until the white flag came out and RIGHT then... the bike starts to cough. APOKHAFOIHASFKLMWEFE I'm out of gas and spend the rest of the lap sputtering around the course and just as I cross the finish in last and have to walk the bike back to the pits. /facepalm

Saturday night is spent in the sleep of the dead so when our alarms go off at 5 we're pretty refreshed only to find on exit in the motel 6... that someone has stolen EVERYHING except for my bike out of the back of my truck. My entire tool box, tire warmers, generator, ez-up, chairs, ramp, front and rear stands, and even my spare OIL. Theres $1500 down the drain because of some ass clown. Great. Head to the track pissed off and depressed, but vow to get some frustration out by actually winning this 250 supersport race. This time, they gridded the 250s behind the formula class. I see the starter do his countdown and I see Nemesis on my left take off with me and its ON. Again I somehow I'm in front at the first corner. I catch up to Nope at the end of the first lap, and the rest of the race we BATTLE 4 GREAT JUSTICE. My bike has a little more pull in the straights, but we've got about the same cornering speed and he's better than me in the tight 8,9,10 section, so we keep fighting every lap at that corner to get the drive onto the back straight. Anyways, its the most fun 10 minutes I've EVER had on the track, and we manage to not smear each other! I cross the finish just barely ahead of him, only to find out after the race they want to disqualify me & Nemesis, because their intention was to have TWO starts, one for each class. They didn't bother to tell this to me or Nemesis before the race, plus they changed their race setup from the saturday race, AND they failed to follow their own rule book and meatball flag us for a ride-through penalty for false-starting. So we got the ass end of the stick through a combination of poor communication, switching starting formats, and forgetfulness on their part. So instead of a ride-through penalty (~30 sec), they disqualify us. Piss. Oh well, next time.

So, two blown trophies, a bunch of stolen ****, sore legs, a track record (2:14:9 in race, but I pulled a 2:14:6 in practice) and an epic battle with good friends, and nothing broken, so I call it a good weekend. I'll see you at round 2 in April!

Saturday 250 supersport start:

X1JPLKrZJgY

Hot lap during practice on saturday (sorry didn't get the race):

T_BVV0Sfevo

The crew: (luke the DAWG, Me, Cheeks and TQ)
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0558.jpg

Gettin our haterade on:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0547.jpg

Its like the little kid putting his Michael Jordan or Prince poster on the wall:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0545.jpg

Battling with TQ on the sunday race:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/2011-03-MarchMar-13-CVMASprintRace4ROB_4889.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/2011-03-MarchMar-13-CVMASprintRace4ROB_5076.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/2011-03-MarchMar-13-CVMASprintRace4ROB_5030.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/2011-03-MarchMar-13-CVMASprintRace4ROB_4962.jpg


An eventful weekend for sure. But I'm definitely hooked on racing! Learned quite a few things this weekend:
1) Check your gas
2) Don't trust the race organizers
3) Lock yo **** up
4) Prepare ahead of time (yes we safety wired a motorcycle, and changed fork oil on another in a motel 6 hotel room)
5) Sunstroke is a bitch. Shade, ice towels, and tons of advil are mandatory in SoCal.

If anyone else had doubts about coming out to race, don't. Its worth it, and it would be tons of fun to have more ninjas on the grid next race!

Epic! :thumbup:

Saturday night is spent in the sleep of the dead so when our alarms go off at 5 we're pretty refreshed only to find on exit in the motel 6... that someone has stolen EVERYHING except for my bike out of the back of my truck.

Sorry to hear about the theft, that just blows!:mad: Was it this Motel 6? Google maps (http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=%22motel+6%22,+indio,ca&aq=&sll=33.72798,-116.231918&sspn=0.031409,0.055189&ie=UTF8&hq=%22motel+6%22,&hnear=Indio,+Riverside,+California&z=14) I stayed there Thursday night and it felt sketchy.

It was cool hanging with you, Andrew, and Jon on Friday, hopefully I'll see you guys again on April 15.

Nice write up:thumbup: and thanks for the hotlap vid, gives me some lines to look at. What camera do you have cause it didn't look like a GoPro.

It was cool hanging with you, Andrew, and Jon on Friday, hopefully I'll see you guys again on April 15.

Nice write up:thumbup: and thanks for the hotlap vid, gives me some lines to look at. What camera do you have cause it didn't look like a GoPro.

Nah we stayed at the one in north palm springs farther west, which was sketch too.

I have a ContourHD, which can do 1080p@ 30fps, but I like the 720p @ 60fps much better for fast moving stuff. Only problem is its about 7 mins per GB >.<

Great weekend! I can't wait for the next race. We need more bikes in the grid.

Nice write up, thieves should die!!
That track looks like a lot of fun for sure.

What Pirelli front did you switch to? I just went through a 003rs in 4 days at our local kart track, not happy about that:(

Nice write up, thieves should die!!
That track looks like a lot of fun for sure.

What Pirelli front did you switch to? I just went through a 003rs in 4 days at our local kart track, not happy about that:(

the supercorsa sc1... definitely an improvement over the bridgestone. Two hard days on it and it barely shows wear which is cool, we'll see how it handles the heat cycling. But blowing through tires is part of the deal when you're tracking!

the supercorsa sc1... definitely an improvement over the bridgestone. Two hard days on it and it barely shows wear which is cool, we'll see how it handles the heat cycling. But blowing through tires is part of the deal when you're tracking!

I am assuming you jumped up to a 120?
Definitely not my first racebike but one of the big reasons I went for the 250 is for the lessened tire wear and expense. I have gotten more time out of takeoffs on an R6. I gotta say though I am way more used to the rears going quicker :)
I will need to run the same brand front and rear for contingency purposes, and that will ultimately narrow down my choice of manufacturers. I am not wild about putting a 150 on the rear although I have not tried it yet. I have had even bigger reservations about going up on the front.

I am assuming you jumped up to a 120?
Definitely not my first racebike but one of the big reasons I went for the 250 is for the lessened tire wear and expense. I have gotten more time out of takeoffs on an R6. I gotta say though I am way more used to the rears going quicker :)
I will need to run the same brand front and rear for contingency purposes and that will ultimately narrow down my choice of manufacturers. I am not wild about putting a 150 on the rear although I have not tried it yet. I have had even bigger reservations about going up on the front.

110 front/140 rear. You could definitely go pirelli front/rear with 110/150, I don't know much about their rear tire compound but going to a 150 doesn't seem to be a huge issue with other people and I'd be alright with it most likely as well. You can always get a little quicker turn-in if it really annoys you by dropping the front forks down a few mm if you haven't already, or getting adjustable dogbones and adjusting up the rear if its allowable per the rules.

Hey Bueller, are you doing the trackday at HPR next weekend?

I am planning on IMI as long as I get my new front in and mounted. I'll wait for HPR until the temps pick up a bit (although 70 ain't bad). I am also going to try to set up some group punch card days next month.
3 half days $243=$81ea.
6 half days $475=$79ea.
12 half days $900=$75ea.

Where is IMI? I have a NoMar if you need a tire mounted.

I really appreciate the offer, I will keep it in mind. I have a friend down in Parker that let's me use his machine.

http://imimotorsports.com/
No bike prep, $35 for the day, rental carts have priority, but we generally get more than enough track time, just have some long intermissions at times.

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=s&utm_campaign=en&utm_source=en-ha-na-us-bk-gm&utm_medium=ha&utm_term=google%20maps

That track looks like it might be closer to me. What day are you going?

Oh I am sure it probably is it is exit 232 off of I-25.

Looks like Saturday, at this point.
Check this thread (http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=50624&page=5) starting @ #193

Here is a video of IMI, my bike was only putting out 16 hp in this (leaky diaphram) so it is a little quicker now :D

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GczGO8j4lLM

I'm already signed up for HPR on Saturday.

Just ordered me a gsxr 600 rear shock, seems like everybody is liking that setup. Im going to have to get the spring replaced with one rated for my tiny 120lbs, but that still seems like a great deal for a $20 performance shock.

Just ordered me a gsxr 600 rear shock, seems like everybody is liking that setup. Im going to have to get the spring replaced with one rated for my tiny 120lbs, but that still seems like a great deal for a $20 performance shock.

Damn skippy it is!

How did you safety wire the rear caliper bolts? Got any pics? I took your advise and bought the Hotbodies 2 for 1. Great deal!

oh yeah... here:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0561.jpg

Thanks Steve, that looks about like what I did.

I'm waiting on a lighter weight spring for the gsxr shock, i ordered it about a week ago. I may need to go to racetech suspension if this company keeps me waiting.


As far as removing the stock spring on the gsxr shock you just need to loosen the pre load rings all the way and slip the split washer things from the very bottom of the shock. The stock spring and bushing will just slide off.

after installing and using the 08 ninja 250 with GSRX shock for awhile, I feel like the shock is too hard for the 250. Everytime I hit a bump, the front end absorbs fine but the rear is too hard. I feel it right in my seat as the rear bounces over the bump. Am I alone on this?

What are your settings at, especially the spring preload. I haven't done too much research yet, but I think the stock spring is ideal for someone 200lb? You might have to get a spring meant for someone less than 180 if you're light. Mine feels hard right now as well, but I haven't had a chance to play much with it yet.

Drove my 600rr with ohlins, it absorbs the bumps. This 250 with gsxr shock I feel like the rear make me bounce over bumps.
I'm at 170lbs. Jap bikes normally are make for 120lbs guys on avg. Where you get the 200 lbs figure?
Preload set at 35mm front and rear. Front is perfect. Rear is really rough (hard).

Wow, 35 mm is on the soft side too. I got the 200 lb figure from the gixxer forum so take it with a grain of salt.

http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=228772

after installing and using the 08 ninja 250 with GSRX shock for awhile, I feel like the shock is too hard for the 250. Everytime I hit a bump, the front end absorbs fine but the rear is too hard. I feel it right in my seat as the rear bounces over the bump.

is the shock adjustable?? compression and/or rebound?

is the shock adjustable?? compression and/or rebound?

Yes, it should have spring preload, compression damping and rebound damping. I've started at full and am slowly clicking down...

considering the GSXR is a heavier bike, I would start at mid range on both the rebound and compression adjusters and move one click at a time, doing only the rebound until you get where you want, then work on the compression in the same way. one will affect the other in how the bike reacts, so you might need to touch up the settings once you are close.

race sag (rider aboard) should be set to 30% of the total travel of the rear suspension travel. do this first.

I'm not a believer of using shocks from other bikes as a cheap substitute, if bike specific shocks are available. You really need to get lucky to find one that will mimic a properly valved shock for a specific bike.

considering the GSXR is a heavier bike, I would start at mid range on both the rebound and compression adjusters and move one click at a time, doing only the rebound until you get where you want, then work on the compression in the same way. one will affect the other in how the bike reacts, so you might need to touch up the settings once you are close.

race sag (rider aboard) should be set to 30% of the total travel of the rear suspension travel. do this first.

I'm not a believer of using shocks from other bikes as a cheap substitute, if bike specific shocks are available. You really need to get lucky to find one that will mimic a properly valved shock for a specific bike.

Thanks Kelly.

GSXR def heavier although it's weird that racetech website said both spring rate are the same (well within 0.1 kg/mm diff).
There are rebound/compression adjustment unlike ours. I believe there are 4 turns from min to max (no click). I believe it was set in the middle..I'll try your suggestion. Thanks.

the spring rate is just one part of the equation. the linkage ratio is most likely different than what is used on the 250 ninja, allowing for a softer spring to compensate for the heavier bike.

even then, you have no idea how the internal valving is setup and if it will work on a lighter bike. I'm sure you'll get it to work, but is it really "better" than the stock shock at that point? The only real test is if your lap times improve.

Experimenting with the new shock settings is the only way to find out. Good luck... suspension tuning takes almost as much time to perfect as carb jetting. :D

My racebike is almost complete. Is there a way to increase the rear ride height without a new Ohlins/Elka/Penske/etc?

My racebike is almost complete. Is there a way to increase the rear ride height without a new Ohlins/Elka/Penske/etc?

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=36055

Sweet, thanks!

after installing and using the 08 ninja 250 with GSRX shock for awhile, I feel like the shock is too hard for the 250. Everytime I hit a bump, the front end absorbs fine but the rear is too hard. I feel it right in my seat as the rear bounces over the bump. Am I alone on this?

haha shitload of posts! Sorry was racing this weekend!

Yes it is much stiffer than stock, I had to back off preload nearly all the way for it to be soft enough, and I also backed off both high and low speed compression a half turn, while increasing rebound damping a full turn. It'll never feel all soft and gushy like the stock shock, and especially if you still have the stock front springs, it will feel rough in comparison.

With those settings and me at 150 lbs, it feels perfect on the track with my 140 width bt003rs rear tire. Really easy to slide, extremely forgiving over bumps, and plenty quick for transition. Also helped me kick ass, so I've got no complaints :)

ok another race update!

Round 2 at CVMA went REALLY well. Missed out on friday practice, so got to the track saturday morning never having run it before counter clockwise, so not quite sure what to expect. Turns out the track is really fun counter-clockwise, and definitely faster (well at least to me), because all the decreasing radius turns are now increasing radius so you can really just keep the throttle hammered super early on in turns and just power(sorta) your way out of everything.

First practice goes alright but was shortened because of registration issues, spent most of the time trying to figure out the correct lines are, where to brake and where the rough patches are. Second practice gets cut short because of a pretty lame red flag call on the officials part, so by the time qualifying rolls around, I have maybe 3 truly at speed laps on the course. So I decide EFFZ it, I don't know how fast everyone else is here, so I go in 100%. TBH it was probably a bad idea because it was scary as crap. Front and rear tires sliding everywhere, touching toes on the ground, rear wheel chattering & bouncing at every braking zone, definitely overdoing it. But it paid off, I didn't crash and threw down a 2:09 qualifying lap, which was a solid 3-4 sec faster than everyone else, sticking me onto pole!

Rest of the weekend and the races went pretty uneventfully, though sunday race was more fun because Nemesis (john) got the jump on me off the line, so I followed him & some two stroke single cyl vintage bike into turn 2 where he was carrying more corner speed than I was, and was getting ready to take off down the straight and dust me, but he mis-shifted so I was able to keep my drive right on past him where I got stuck behind the two stroke guy for a few more turns, until eventually diving into the bowl inside of him, then the rest of the race was free sailing. For some reason I just clicked with either the bike or this particular track configuration or something, but I was flying, but still keeping some margin for error, posting a best race lap time of 2:12.

We need a bigger field of 250s for sure! You guys need to get out here! Only 4 bikes on the 250 starting grid is sad! Next time I think we're going to bring a kiddie pool because it was so freakin hot out there (mid-90s) and was definitely detrimental to my health. Thanks everyone who made it, and condolences to Peanut for throwing his bike off the track in from eyewitness reports, a fairly spectacular fashion.

Photos:

Here's lookin at you, kid:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/DSC04969.jpg

Game on:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/DSC04950.jpg

Saturday lap 2 entering turn 2, thats me off in front followed by an old man with a broken leg, Nemesis, cheeks and some single cyl vintage bike:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/DSC04807.jpg

They say ninjas are sneaky:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/DSC04799.jpg

Those two on the 125gp bikes behind me are like 13 years old and REALLY fast:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/DSC04730.jpg

FU, wind resistance:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/DSC04742.jpg

Everyone at the end of the day:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/DSC04680.jpg

Anyway, it was once again a really fun weekend, and again WE NEED MORE NINJAS ON THE GRID! Come on out if you're even thinking at ALL about it!

Don't blame yourself over those kids one the 125 gp bikes. Those 2 stroke 125cc race bikes are a league above the ninja, I bet any one of us could go fast on those suckers too.

Don't want to hijack the thread too much about the GSXR shock, but I looked at my friend's service manual for the 06-07 GSXR to get the stock settings.

Spring preload- 176.4mm (6.94in) max, 186.4mm (7.34in) min with stock at 181.4mm (7.14in)

Rebound-turn clockwise fully for stiffest position, stock at 1 3/4 turns out

Low-speed compression-turn clockwise for stiffest position, stock at 1 3/4 turns out

High-speed compression-turn clockwise for stiffest position, stock at 3 turns out

Great photos!

Where do you guys buy the bolts & spacers?

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10104&d=1291176428

are you guys running emulators for the front?

I've been reading up on threads in this forum about emulators/preload adjusters/gold valves/etc. and I still don't understand the difference. Although I know what preload adjusters do but the others...I'm at a lost.

Hopefully what I know of these things are correct, but obviously correct me if I'm wrong.

Preload adjusters- Let's you adjust your spring preload in your forks to match your weight (just like our rear preload). Basically to set your front sag while at rest. I have preload adjusters and I believe they're adjustable from 5mm-20mm with clipons.

Emulators- Used to mimic cartridge forks that most supersports come stock. They're used to set rebound dampening and compression dampening (how quickly the spring will bounce back). It's a way to have a plush ride while still being firm (think going over bumps).

Springs- Changing springs will either soften or stiffen the front (depending on what you need because of your weight). Ninja 250 has pretty average springs that will dive for many people so stiffer springs or progressive springs will help.

Oil- Also will help stiffen or soften the front.

I have preload adjusters and 15W fork oil installed and do feel how the front suspension needs help since I installed the GSXR shock. Without an emulator, going over a bump will either be harsh or soft, but cornering will be firm or wallow respectively. The goal is to have the front and back rebound and compress at the same rate. With a stock 250 shock, you can only adjust preload so I wouldn't think an emulator would be necessary. I liked having it at 5 to have firm cornering, but obviously most bumps were jarring for me since I weigh about 160. I'm trying to dial in the GSXR's shock to match my front to avoid having to get an emulator. Hope this helps :thumbup:

cuong is mostly correct, good info!

also emulators = gold valves haha

Just to add a few things: if you're bottoming out your suspension on the track, spring preload adjusters won't be a solution. You're mostly just adjusting the spring preload for normal road use, but preloading the springs more doesnt really make up for overly-soft springs. However, with stiffer springs you could use the preloader to fine-tune how the front end feels at the track.

Oil will soften or stiffen DAMPING only. The stock fork damping is pretty soft with not much low or high speed compression damping, and moderate rebound damping. Good for soaking up potholes and expansion joints, but less so for performance. If you switch to heavier oil, you're increasing all of these damping characteristics equally, which is an improvement but less than ideal. Thats why you get an emulator, because it changes the characteristics of the fork damping for a more performance-minded ride.

From experience, heres my impression of the improvements all these made on my bike on the track (with a pirelli supercorsa sc1 front & bridgestone bt003 rear tire):
1) Emulators & 15w oil: front end no longer chatters and bounces over broken pavement at the track at full lean like it used to with stock forks. It really does feel planted over nearly anything, and when it does slip, its pretty progressive and will run you wide instead of just tucking you into the ground, but I'm sure the tire has lots to do with this as well! Really... gives you a ton more confidence in the front end of the bike over stock! Again, this is really track-only feedback here.
2) Springs: Another MUST for racing/tracking even at my 150 lbs, since it keeps the front end from bottoming (mostly... I think I might get preload adjusters to tighten them just BARELY) under hard braking and cornering, letting the suspension soak up bumps and do its happy dance also increasing confidence.

Basically: for racing, emulators/springs/15w oil are essential if you're over like 120 lbs haha. It changed my bike from front end chattermonkey into planted and rear-slideypants, which I like better for SURE because it doesn't make you pucker up as much and I hate having to dig half my stinkybritches outta there.

are you guys running emulators for the front?

hey, you comin out to the next CVMA? Hint: correct answer is yes :)

Don't mean to jack this thread again but I have the Hyperco spring courtesy of Traxxion Dynamics rated at 500lbs/inch installed on the GSXR 600 shock.

Here is the pic.

http://p1.bikepics.com/pics/2011%5C04%5C30%5Cbikepics-2198166-full.jpg

I'm pretty sure I have the spacer on properly, however I wouldn't be suprised if some suspension expert will come on here and call me a dumbass.

hey, you comin out to the next CVMA? Hint: correct answer is yes :)

i might take the NRS at buttonwillow... however i really wanted to do a school first... unless you guys want a backmarker to feel like champions ill jump right in! :thumbup: j/k... i dont want to be a turtle forever though

i might take the NRS at buttonwillow... however i really wanted to do a school first... unless you guys want a backmarker to feel like champions ill jump right in! :thumbup: j/k... i dont want to be a turtle forever though

the NRS really just teaches you how starting works, what the flags mean, what to do if you get penalized or what will happen if theres a red-flag event, its really just a track day where you're not allowed to crash with info sessions in between track time. All the info can be found in the rule book, its just a way for the race orgs to make sure that someone has told it to your face, so now the responsibility is on you to follow them.

Although, it is a pretty good way to follow fast people and see how they roll

Just finished prepping mine for WERA at Barber on Sunday:

http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj86/sowega748/ninjaafter.jpg

I've been reading up on threads in this forum about emulators/preload adjusters/gold valves/etc. and I still don't understand the difference. Although I know what preload adjusters do but the others...I'm at a lost.

Hopefully what I know of these things are correct, but obviously correct me if I'm wrong.
...
Emulators- Used to mimic cartridge forks that most supersports come stock. They're used to set rebound dampening and compression dampening (how quickly the spring will bounce back). It's a way to have a plush ride while still being firm (think going over bumps).
...


Emulator is short for "Gold Valve Cartridge Emulator." That's Race Tech's name for the part.

Cuong is correct in that it improves front end feel, but emulators only affect compression damping. They sit on top of the damping rod already in the fork.

The damping rod in the fork has holes for both rebound and compression damping. When you put in an emulator, typically you drill out the compression holes in the damping rod so as to make them useless. That way the emulator now takes over the duties of compression damping, and the damper rod continues to do the duties of rebound damping.

The only way to affect rebound characteristics (in damping rod forks like in our Ninja 250's) is 1) to re-size the rebound holes in the damping rod or 2) to change the viscosity of the fork oil.

Hope this helps. And if you want to know more, I suggest you take a gander at Race Tech's Motorcycle Suspension Bible (http://www.amazon.com/Techs-Motorcycle-Suspension-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0760331405).

Emulator is short for "Gold Valve Cartridge Emulator." That's Race Tech's name for the part.

Cuong is correct in that it improves front end feel, but emulators only affect compression damping. They sit on top of the damping rod already in the fork.

The damping rod in the fork has holes for both rebound and compression damping. When you put in an emulator, typically you drill out the compression holes in the damping rod so as to make them useless. That way the emulator now takes over the duties of compression damping, and the damper rod continues to do the duties of rebound damping.

The only way to affect rebound characteristics (in damping rod forks like in our Ninja 250's) is 1) to re-size the rebound holes in the damping rod or 2) to change the viscosity of the fork oil.

Hope this helps. And if you want to know more, I suggest you take a gander at Race Tech's Motorcycle Suspension Bible (http://www.amazon.com/Techs-Motorcycle-Suspension-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0760331405).

this is my understanding on race tech emulators as well. I have them in the dirt bikes.

went to buttonwillow this weekend, and for some reason my camera didn't work the whole day until the very last session of the day, and even then it only worked for like 2 minutes. Anyway it was a different video but here it is:

gRrHudXCacA

Quick update:
Dyno'd the bike and got 30.9hp out of it, stock airbox and Sportisi exhaust. Got a set of Michelin Power Race tires, re-set rear preload & sag, changed brake pads, and if all the planets align and hell freezes over, racing AFM next weekend.

Gotta say, Matt's been pullin some ridiculous strings with AFM to make it happen, hope it works out!

Just finished prepping mine for WERA at Barber on Sunday:

http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj86/sowega748/ninjaafter.jpg

What all have you done to this bike? How are the dudes at MM?

i'm soooo jealous! :mad:

just got the gsxr rear shocks from nemesis,it was hand carried all the way to Bali... that thing is heavy! felt rather bad for having the person lug that thing half way across the globe, but ah... its here now :D

gonna get cracking at it over the week end i think~ hope i don't run into any trouble installing it. but it looks quite straight forward...

did you fit this on your bike at all Nemesis? do i still need to drill some of the holes bigger? i didn't really try to figure it out yet, dropped it all off at the mechanics where ill work on it on Saturday, while they are taking the engine apart to bore her up.

what are the dials set at? which dial is which? rofl.... a lotta questions~

Hi Steve - Thanks for this thread. On my way to do the shock mod as you have suggested. I have 2 questions.

1. Can you shoot a pic of the other side of the under tail plastic thing. Cant figure out where exactly to dremel/hacksaw it thru for shock clearance.

2. Did you try with gixxer 1000 shock? Its 0.25" taller and i am wondering if you would have used the gixxer 1000 shock, then the 15mm gap would have been compensated.

I have access to some of the stock gsxr's and length measured from eyelet to eyelet is ::

05 gix 600 13”
06 07 gix 600/750 12.5”
05 06 gix 1000 12.75”
07 08 gix 1000 12.25”

Appreciate your help ! ... Also, what clipons are those on your racek bike?

The problem with the other gsxr shocks is that the resevoir will interfere with the air box, that's why I chose this one, because it won't collide with it. The spring rate is too high but I'm going to swap to a 2003 gsxr1000 spring that is a bit softer. I'm going to be shortening the dogbones 6mm to lift up the tail and get a little more head angle. Also increasing the fork oil to increase front damping and help decrease the pogoing that's happening under high loads.
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Thanks Rexbo ...

Did you try the 05 gixxer 1000? Its almost the same length as the current Ninja 250 shock. I am not sure about the clerance though. Do you think the 03 gixxer 1000 shock will clear?

Yes, the 06-09 spring is tad stiffer 9.4kg/mm (almost close to my weight though for a Ninja 250 spring rate). And, thats my worry that i need to spend money to get another spring.

Please let me know your thoughts !

Thanks Rexbo ...

Did you try the 05 gixxer 1000? Its almost the same length as the current Ninja 250 shock. I am not sure about the clerance though. Do you think the 03 gixxer 1000 shock will clear?

Yes, the 06-09 spring is tad stiffer 9.4kg/mm (almost close to my weight though for a Ninja 250 spring rate). And, thats my worry that i need to spend money to get another spring.

Please let me know your thoughts !

The 2007-2010 GSXR1000 rear shocks should fit, and are the same length as stock, but the springs are way way too stiff. Here's my spreadsheet for what would work best:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Av4Nflqy9M7udDN3azB4TnoyNjdSLTM0V0xGZ1hTeEE

Take a spring highlighted in green and match it to a shock that fits (highlighted in green) and you have yourself a good combo. All this can probably be found on ebay for way cheap. I got my two shock assemblies off ebay/craigslist for a grand total of $40. Not bad at all.

Just checked the spreadsheet ... Have you checked all of these shocks (marked in green) individually for the reservoir fit? And, is it factoring in the cut that need to be done to the base tray.

Ohh, did you buy the 03 gixxer 1000 shock just to get the spring and put on the 06-09 gixxer 600? Why not the 05 gixxer 1000 spring ... thats even softer.

Thing is we cant touch the dogbones/links at AFM production. So i have to work around that.

btw - Are you Nemesis on Barf ?

The 2007-2010 GSXR1000 rear shocks should fit, and are the same length as stock, but the springs are way way too stiff. Here's my spreadsheet for what would work best:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Av4Nflqy9M7udDN3azB4TnoyNjdSLTM0V0xGZ1hTeEE

Take a spring highlighted in green and match it to a shock that fits (highlighted in green) and you have yourself a good combo. All this can probably be found on ebay for way cheap. I got my two shock assemblies off ebay/craigslist for a grand total of $40. Not bad at all.

Just checked the spreadsheet ... Have you checked all of these shocks (marked in green) individually for the reservoir fit? And, is it factoring in the cut that need to be done to the base tray.

Ohh, did you buy the 03 gixxer 1000 shock just to get the spring and put on the 06-09 gixxer 600? Why not the 05 gixxer 1000 spring ... thats even softer.

Thing is we cant touch the dogbones/links at AFM production. So i have to work around that.

btw - Are you Nemesis on Barf ?

I havent checked them all, but from looking at photos its pretty easy to tell which shocks will and wont fit, if the reservoir sits above the upper shock eye, you got a no-go. Even the shock I bought interfered with the tray, but not the air box. I trimmed the tray and left it at that.

As for AFM rules... The only other way around this that I could see would be either dropping the upper shock mount down (which MAY get you some clearance for one of the longer gsxr shocks, or finding a way to elongate the lower fork on the GSXR lower shock fork.

Thanks Rexbo. Please update how the 03 gixxer 1000 spring swap goes on 06 gixxer 600. Eagerly waiting for the results :thumbup

Thanks Rexbo. Please update how the 03 gixxer 1000 spring swap goes on 06 gixxer 600. Eagerly waiting for the results :thumbup

I've got a track day this weekend so won't be able to take care of this before then, but I'll get to it in the next week or two!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v86/wayanlam/Ninja%20250%20-%20JE%20Piston%20265cc/utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTExMDE1LTAwMDI5LmpwZw.jpg

thats all i had to cut out for clearance.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v86/wayanlam/Ninja%20250%20-%20JE%20Piston%20265cc/utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTExMDE1LTAwMDI4LmpwZw.jpg

dont have any clear pictures of it assembled tho, lol

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v86/wayanlam/Byson%20Rear%20Hugger%20on%20Ninja%20250/utf-8BRGVucGFzYXIgQmFyYXQtMjAxMTExMDQtMDAwODMuanBn.jpg

i just cut out the concaved part of the plastic, and it was a perfect fit, didn't need to chop off the whole lip like some other DIY suggested.

---------------------------

how can i identify what year shock i have, i bought this one off a fellow member, (Nemisis), but i wasnt able to get the year of the shocks. i think the spring rate is a little on the stiff side atm. not sure if i should look into getting a softer one :confused:

He prb got the same year shock as me which has a 9.4 kg/mm spring rate. Back off the preload a ton and your ride should get a little softer. If its still too harsh you can swap a softer spring on from a different year gsxr. Check my Google document I posted up earlier
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ya, i backed it up some already, but i think i might loosen it up some more, lol...

the bike handles well when im 2 up with my girlfriend, with the added weight on the back to compensate for the stiffer springs, hehe...

ill be able to tell better once i go on a bike ride where i push it into and out of the corners. just daily commute rides dont give the right kind of feedback.

thnx for the info!

Maybe you picked up this one ? http://bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=373513

how can i identify what year shock i have, i bought this one off a fellow member, (Nemisis), but i wasnt able to get the year of the shocks. i think the spring rate is a little on the stiff side atm. not sure if i should look into getting a softer one :confused:

OTOH, i am waiting for feedback from Rexbo on the 03 gixxer 1000 spring and then i will shoot for the mod. Did you also compensate the front fork height?

i lowered the front shocks by about 1 inch, cos i have KTC clipons, which go above the tripple clamp.

so the bike is angles a little steeper to the front now i believe.

what did you mean by compensate?

Maybe you picked up this one ? http://bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=373513


and yes, thats the one i got :)

he brought it over to my office in LA, and then it was hand carried over to Bali by our sales manager that was by chance coming over here, :rolleyes:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v86/wayanlam/Ninja%20250%20-%20JE%20Piston%20265cc/utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTExMDE1LTAwMDI3LmpwZw.jpg
waiting at the metal lather who drilled out the 2 holes, hehe

Dang waylam

I installed and mod e everything by hand with a hand drill and grinder. You're lucky to have a whole machine shop :D

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMAG03782.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMAG0379.jpg

ha HA! Drinking and grinding.

rexbo, nice cuts... but i think you need to get rid of that 10lbs chemical plant you've got under your nuts!

ha HA! Drinking and grinding.

I'm confused :confused:

Is this still legal for 250 CVMA?

Should be, its legal to cut subframes! Also I got a lightweight battery on the way so never fear, its just the tray
Posted via Mobile Device

So another update here with my suspension setup v. 2.0:
- Changed fork oil to 20w oil, I was having lots of pogoing before, heavier oil seemed to do the trick. I'm not using the full suspension travel now during practice, so I may back off spring preload slightly, but we will see.
- Swapped the rear spring for a softer 8.1 kg/mm spring, rear grip and ride is definitely improved. Bumps I used to feel are gone, but I may need to increase preload a bit to keep the rear from squatting in turns. I also increased rear rebound damping a quarter turn, and now the rear wheel bounce under hard braking is gone, and corner entry slides are much smoother.
- Fabricated a custom 158mm eye to eye dogbone, raising the rear end of the bike, turn in is much quicker and the bike doesn't seem to want to run wide on exit as it used to. I will be making a batch of 156mm dogbones which will be as high as the gsxr shock will allow, and adjust the rest with front ride height. Definitely a worthwhile mod.

Weighed the bike, and with a quarter tank of gas it is at 294 lbs, with the front and rear wheel weights nearly identical. Me in full gear adds another 177. All in all, much lighter than it started out as, and with Pirelli slicks on the way, it should be a competitive bike!
Posted via Mobile Device

Steve - great info. Can you please take a pic of the shock? Last time we spoke you had combined the locking thread perches.

btw - what is the OEM dogbone length. And, when you say batches of 156mm, would we be able to place orders? :thumbup:

I'm curious about these dogbones as well. Would you be limited to doing batches of certain sizes? or could we, for example, ask you to do one that was about 135 mm, which is a couple mm longer than aftershocks shortened dogbones for a pre-gen?

I know soupy's performance makes adjustable ones for a pregen that can raise the back end up, but $100 seems expensive, and I'd rather do business with a forum member anyways and tack on a few dollars for you to get yourself a beer on me

I'll get a pic of the shock and dogbones for you guys when I can.

It's super easy to change the length of these with CAD software, so I can get any length made. OEM 2nd gen length is 168mm I think, need to double check. Give me a few weeks and I will have a few sets made and anodized for everyone. They should be really cheap as well :)
Posted via Mobile Device

Really cheap sounds good to me. I will be interested once I can find an actual length for the modified pre-gen dogbones. I'll add like 2mm on to that because I have the front lowered a touch...


Now I just need to find it to be certain. I read that the modified ones are either 6 or 7 (?) mm shorter... :mad:

Oh and just a summary, here's the bike setup as I think it will be perfect for my weight in case anyone wants to have a reference for race prep:
- Racetech gold emulators, 20w oil, 0.7 kg/mm springs, 120mm preload spacers, forks dropped 10mm above top triple.
- 2006 gsxr 600 rear shock 2 turns from soft compression 2.25 turns rebound, 8.1 kg/mm springs from a 2006 gsxr 1000, 156mm dogbones
- michelin power ones, 28psi front 30psi rear hot
- Pirelli supercorsa, 26psi front 28 psi rear hot
- bridgestone bt003, 30 psi front 28 psi rear hot.
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I did my research. 135mm between the center of each hole is what I want to raise my bike up an inch in the rear.

Do you have any idea about the price of these dogbones when they're done? Not to be pushy. Just wondering if I should be expecting $20-$30 or $80-$90

Rexbo could you post a pic of your subframe cut job or any instructions on what you hacked exactly. I would be curious to see

Rexbo could you post a pic of your subframe cut job or any instructions on what you hacked exactly. I would be curious to see

There's a couple photos on the previous page. I ended up re-attaching the subframe with fasteners so I could bolt it on and off if I wanted to, just so nobody can protest me racing.

Also the dogbones are coming along, they'll be in the $20-$30 range. Will post pics after anodize. I'll have two lengths most likely, one that will work with the gsxr rear shock, and the other that works with the stock rear shock (higher)

Also the dogbones are coming along, they'll be in the $20-$30 range. Will post pics after anodize. I'll have two lengths most likely, one that will work with the gsxr rear shock, and the other that works with the stock rear shock (higher)

When they're ready, can you post some pictures? I'm still interested in those custom length ones and spacers that we talked about before.

Thanks Rexbo for the all the info you provided on the GSXR shock. I finally did the mod and pretty happy with where i stand.

Spring fully backed out, sag is at 30mm. Rebound and HI/LO compression is fully backed out. I would prefer a bit "faster" rebound though.

My weight without gear : 175lb

Some key points on the gsxr shock mod :

1. Rexbo = Can you clarify this? Why did you grind the inside spacer of the shock top mount when the spacer from the 250 shock can be extracted and fitted to the gsxr shock top mount. While i started drilling the gsxr spacer with the 12mm drillbit, i just didnt like how thin it became, plus the heat generated was resulting in the rubber cushion going softer. Used the spacer from the 250 instead. (Heat the top mount slightly, and punched out the spacer, came out pretty easy). I need to find out how to get these spacers fab'ed.

2. Here are some bolt length measurements.
a. shock top mount : used 250 stock bolt and nut
b. for clevis (lower mount) : M12 x 80mm x 1.75 pitch. would have preferred 75mm length. stock is 70mm
c. for dogbones : M12 x 140mm x 1.75 pitch. would have preferred 125mm
length. stock is 100mm. [No local store had any bolt longer than 100mm. I went to Mr. Metric and they only had 140mm & above]
d. Collared spacers and several M12 washers.


I have NRS on 3/26 and would post my feedback on the shock.

Rexbo Pics of said dogbones? This Ninjetter is definitely interested.

Thanks Rexbo for the all the info you provided on the GSXR shock. I finally did the mod and pretty happy with where i stand.

Spring fully backed out, sag is at 30mm. Rebound and HI/LO compression is fully backed out. I would prefer a bit "faster" rebound though.

My weight without gear : 175lb

Some key points on the gsxr shock mod :

1. Rexbo = Can you clarify this? Why did you grind the inside spacer of the shock top mount when the spacer from the 250 shock can be extracted and fitted to the gsxr shock top mount. While i started drilling the gsxr spacer with the 12mm drillbit, i just didnt like how thin it became, plus the heat generated was resulting in the rubber cushion going softer. Used the spacer from the 250 instead. (Heat the top mount slightly, and punched out the spacer, came out pretty easy). I need to find out how to get these spacers fab'ed.


Good info! Not sure what year GSXR shock you got, but chances are, you'll need to soften up the rear spring a little. I swapped a spring from a gsxr1k that was around 8kg/mm for my weight (according to the racetech calculator) and the bike feels fantastic now. Couple this with shortened dogbones (not legal in AFM though) and the bike is SO much better.

As for the top mount, I didn't really think about swapping the spacers because my plan was to sell the OEM shock. So I just drilled the GSXR one instead. Good idea though!

I got the 06-07 GSXR 600 shock. Drilling that spacer made the collar so thin that i was concerned. I just looked up fiched and looks like we can order that spacer separately for the Ninja 250.

Preload is backed out to minimum so are the dampening settings. I would still prefer a bit more rebound. The 20W oil in the front too just doesnt feel right as well. (I am just running springs from Sonic for my weight).

Yes, you did send me the info on the GSXR1K shock spring swap and which spacers to use. My NRS is on 3/26, so will see how it feels.

I will still want to get a set of dogbones from you to test it out on a trackday :thumbup.

btw - where did you source your long bolts from. None of the popular hardware stores here had it and i had to go to this specialty store, Mr, Metric.

Good info! Not sure what year GSXR shock you got, but chances are, you'll need to soften up the rear spring a little. I swapped a spring from a gsxr1k that was around 8kg/mm for my weight (according to the racetech calculator) and the bike feels fantastic now. Couple this with shortened dogbones (not legal in AFM though) and the bike is SO much better.

As for the top mount, I didn't really think about swapping the spacers because my plan was to sell the OEM shock. So I just drilled the GSXR one instead. Good idea though!

TBH I cheated a little. I used 15/32" drill & bolts because they were easier to find. Stupid american measurements.

I am running the racetech emulators with the 20w oil and sonic springs for my weigh and the forks feel as good as they're ever gonna get. There will be a difference between the stock damping and the emulators which I can't make a comparison since I don't have another set of forks to test side by side. I think I have like a 130mm preload spacer, with the oil level at 140mm (with fork compressed all the way & no spring). I've also got the front triples dropped down 20mm from the top of the fork tubes as well to increase front head angle. Might lift those back up JUUST a bit because I get some low frequency head shake as I'm lifting the bike back up out of turns under power, as well as a little wobble hard on the brakes. Without the rear of the bike lifted up though, you'll need as much head angle as you can get.

I cant remember if 140mm OEM oil level.

If i remember correctly, you mentioned there was a 5mm drop in rear ride height with the gsxr shock (and OEM dogbones). Honestly, i did not even see 5mm drop.

I see what you did to get the "quicker turn". I might drop the triple couple of mm's. Need to figure out whats stock for height though, you know?


TBH I cheated a little. I used 15/32" drill & bolts because they were easier to find. Stupid american measurements.

I am running the racetech emulators with the 20w oil and sonic springs for my weigh and the forks feel as good as they're ever gonna get. There will be a difference between the stock damping and the emulators which I can't make a comparison since I don't have another set of forks to test side by side. I think I have like a 130mm preload spacer, with the oil level at 140mm (with fork compressed all the way & no spring). I've also got the front triples dropped down 20mm from the top of the fork tubes as well to increase front head angle. Might lift those back up JUUST a bit because I get some low frequency head shake as I'm lifting the bike back up out of turns under power, as well as a little wobble hard on the brakes. Without the rear of the bike lifted up though, you'll need as much head angle as you can get.

An update : The sleeve is available as part of fiche and with 40% discount from my contact it is only 12$ :thumbup.

Total cost for this mod :
30$ (shock) + bolts/washers/spacers ~ 30$ + sleeve ~ 12$ = 72$.

I will do a writeup later. Thanks Rexbo for the direction.

There's a couple photos on the previous page. I ended up re-attaching the subframe with fasteners so I could bolt it on and off if I wanted to, just so nobody can protest me racing.

Also the dogbones are coming along, they'll be in the $20-$30 range. Will post pics after anodize. I'll have two lengths most likely, one that will work with the gsxr rear shock, and the other that works with the stock rear shock (higher)

interdasting ... what kind of fasteners did you use ?

Also, here's a photo of how I mounted the gsxr1000 sprint onto the gsxr600 shock:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0602.jpg

And also how much of the fairings I had to cut to drop the clipons lower:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0605.jpg

And my sweet living room haha:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/StevenDawson/Ninja%20250r/IMG_0595.jpg

Oh man its inspiring to see the trophies ... I cant wait to start racing

ps ... what kind of fairings do you have

Steve, I like how you cut the fairing. Even with the Woodcrafts up against the top triple, the bars feel high.

OP!

Read through most of this thread and wow man! Inspiring and GJ!

You got any advice for someone who's never done a track day (going this year for sure though) and is looking to race one day?

Finally have all the gear needed, but my bike is no where near track ready.

My bike is mostly stock minus SS brake lines, yosh rear set extendors, WC clip ons, slip on exhaust, snorkel removal, ca emissions removal and other comestic mods. Where should I start on my bike to get it track and one day race ready!?

Damn your forks are way up! No wonder I can't turn. Mine are practically flush. That would explain some.

The silicon job was my doing. So proud. :)

Raisinator: Hotbodies. Now get out there and earn yourself some trophies :)

Pjed: Dropping the bars helped a TON. My posture was way too upright to begin with so it helped me keep my head down. http://www.caliphotography.com/photos/index.php?do=photocart&viewGallery=17813#image=1815793

Walty: Sounds like your bike is already pretty much track-worthy if you have a decent set of tires on it! If you need a hand getting to the track or want to tag along with someone, there's tons of people here more than willing to help out.

Kit: Stock, the upper triple is 12mm below the fork tops, I dropped mine down to 20mm and raised up the back end, making it a little twitchy now, so I might lift the front up a few mm and see if it feels better.

Nem: Aim high

Nem: Aim high

WTF? Was that a height joke? LMAO! :lol:

Rexbo - Thanks for the pics of the gsxr1000 spring mounted. You basically used the locknut from the that shock, got it !

btw - i ordered the OEM spacer off the Ninja shock. It came to only 6 bucks a piece. If no one is worried about ride height (the RPM shock is similar sized too and not ride height adjustable), i am thinking of preparing a full set of shock which can be made available to the public with 2 sets of spring and necesarry bolts and your dogbones ... shock will be serviced and clevis holes will be drilled, including clevis inside burshed/sanded. Definitely will be a worthy shock setup under 200$ :thumbup:

Rexbo,

I know it's mostly track ready, but don't you have to disconnect the lights, and put distilled water in it? The little stuff like that is the stuff I don't k ow about.

Also what tires do you run?and why?
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Are you trying to make it "track-ready" or "race-ready" ?

If "race-ready" you will need to follow your local club rules AND If "track-ready" you will need to follow the trackday provider rules.

For some trackday providers, tape off headlights, signal lights, taillights is Ok. some mandate you to disconnect connectors.

distilled water with water wetter in your radiator is fine.

Definitely, invest in a set of track bodywork. OEM bodywork, lights cost money. track bodywork is easily repairable.



Rexbo,

I know it's mostly track ready, but don't you have to disconnect the lights, and put distilled water in it? The little stuff like that is the stuff I don't k ow about.

Also what tires do you run?and why?
Posted via Mobile Device

Rexbo,

I know it's mostly track ready, but don't you have to disconnect the lights, and put distilled water in it? The little stuff like that is the stuff I don't k ow about.

Also what tires do you run?and why?
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yeah just pull the fuses that go to the lights/turn signals, tape over the lights/turn signals with masking tape, and take off the rearview mirrors. Flushing the coolant and replacing with water/water wetter mix is a good idea too, most SoCal track day orgs don't require it, but nearly all race orgs do.

The cheapest decent tires for track are the bridgestone bt-003s or bt-016s. The beastliest tires (in my opinion) are the Pirellis, but they're more expensive and you might not need them right off the bat, especially if you still commute on the bike.

purchased the gsxr shock last year and it has been sitting in my basement waiting to go on.... looks like I will be attempting it in the next couple weeks.... any updated hints/tips/suggestions?

If you go through one page before, Rexbo has listed everything that need to be done with the gsxr shock.

Couple of notes :

1. Rear will sit 7 mm lower, adjust your front accordingly. (OR wait for Rexbo's shorter dogbones)

2. You will not get long metric bolts for the lower links. I did not get them at any hardware store. You will need to find a metric bolt shop. Length needed : 125mm (I have a spare set if you want i can sell them to you, lol)

3. TIP : You can buy the OEM shock top collar part # and use it to replace the top gsxr collar. No grinding required for the top. 12$ for the OEM part from my contact

4. Take your time shaving off material from the lower clevis. Took me good 45 minutes. Do it even on both legs. (I can shoot a picture and post)

5. You definitely need a softer spring. There is practically no free sag with the gsxr shock spring and very little rider sag {based on your weight} (oem spring = 9.4 kg/mm).


FWIW : I rode with the gsxr shock at Thunderhill, pathetic ! Shifted back to stock and rode Laguna yesterday, much much better. So, to get the most out of it, use the shorter dogbones & softer spring.




purchased the gsxr shock last year and it has been sitting in my basement waiting to go on.... looks like I will be attempting it in the next couple weeks.... any updated hints/tips/suggestions?

Helmet, jacket and my cell phone took most of the fall and amazingly enough my HTC EVO still works perfectly! Gotta give props to the cell phone case for acting as a hip slider for a while!

Sorry to bring up an old post but that made me think of something.

I used to have an HTC Evo when they first came out. I had it in my front pocket while I was riding my road bicycle. I was going about 20 mph, not watching where I was going down a bike path. Well it turns out that the city was going to light off some fireworks and put up a temporary gate. I ran straight into it and my leg was one of the first things to hit.

Anyways it still worked. What a tough phone.

http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4098/4868080136_1b63c98e58_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/thisisbenji/4868080136/)
DSC_7269 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/thisisbenji/4868080136/) by Benji Reynolds (http://www.flickr.com/people/thisisbenji/), on Flickr

http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4079/4868080744_b787f7a5e2_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/thisisbenji/4868080744/)
DSC_7273 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/thisisbenji/4868080744/) by Benji Reynolds (http://www.flickr.com/people/thisisbenji/), on Flickr

Anyone else found the GSXR shock too stiff?? I am 176lbs naked....

If you go through one page before, Rexbo has listed everything that need to be done with the gsxr shock.

Couple of notes :

1. Rear will sit 7 mm lower, adjust your front accordingly. (OR wait for Rexbo's shorter dogbones)

2. You will not get long metric bolts for the lower links. I did not get them at any hardware store. You will need to find a metric bolt shop. Length needed : 125mm (I have a spare set if you want i can sell them to you, lol)

3. TIP : You can buy the OEM shock top collar part # and use it to replace the top gsxr collar. No grinding required for the top. 12$ for the OEM part from my contact

4. Take your time shaving off material from the lower clevis. Took me good 45 minutes. Do it even on both legs. (I can shoot a picture and post)

5. You definitely need a softer spring. There is practically no free sag with the gsxr shock spring and very little rider sag {based on your weight} (oem spring = 9.4 kg/mm).


FWIW : I rode with the gsxr shock at Thunderhill, pathetic ! Shifted back to stock and rode Laguna yesterday, much much better. So, to get the most out of it, use the shorter dogbones & softer spring.

Anyone else found the GSXR shock too stiff?? I am 176lbs naked....

Yep the 9.4 kg/mm spring is way too stiff. Thats why I swapped on the lighter 8.1kg/mm spring and now it works out REALLY well.

How much did the 8.1kg/mm Spring cost you? ebay?

You can order replacement springs from several places online (google ftw), or find a used gsxr 1000 shock/spring on ebay like I did earlier in this thread. I picked up the gsxr whole rear shock with spring for $20 shipped :)

taking my 2012 250 to the track soon for the first time.

are safety wires required?

Should be, its legal to cut subframes! Also I got a lightweight battery on the way so never fear, its just the tray
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Details on the battery, plskthnx

Yep the 9.4 kg/mm spring is way too stiff. Thats why I swapped on the lighter 8.1kg/mm spring and now it works out REALLY well.

I put on the GSXR shock just recently. I haven't ridden it yet as I have the bike at my friend's shop to pull the frame at the neck to straighten it out. Anyhow, I am 230lbs naked and sitting on it initially, I will have to adjust it as well to soften it up a bit. I made my own dogbones with the 158mm eye to eye suggestions.

The forks I did from Racetech I set up for 215lb naked rider weight(.80kg springs) with emulators. I probably will need to adjust it a little to even out the rear shock. We will see.

I found the racetech website to be very useful to calculate approximate rear spring rates if you're curious what would work better.

Yea I used it but Racetech asked me all the questions when I had them completely do the forks for me. Their site says 9.419kg/mm for road racing. The stock spring is 9.3kg/mm. So the GSXR is rated the same right?

Right now the bike is stripped of a lot of weight so until I put everything back on, I'll set Sag from there and see. I think with my weight being 235-250lbs suited the shock will work good.

I just noticed your friend is running the number plate 46. :)

Hey Steve, do you know if the 2008 GSXR 600 shock would work as well? Or does it have to be a 2006-2007 shock? Thanks in advance.

The info is all in post #186

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?p=404513&postcount=186

You need 06-09 gsxr 600 shock and spring from 03-04 gsxr 1000 with collars/spacers. (or custom spring from racetech). You will also need Steve's linkages to compensate the height drop. Since i cannot use aftermarket linkages in my production race class, i ditched the gsxr shock for RPM 2-way shock [stock ride height] from Taiwan (sold by samw - SportisiMotorSport).

fyi - As several folks from India asked me about the 250 build, i asked PerformanceMotorcycleStore at Bombay to talk to Sportisi & RPM but they did not seem to be interested.

Hey Steve, do you know if the 2008 GSXR 600 shock would work as well? Or does it have to be a 2006-2007 shock? Thanks in advance.

The info is all in post #186

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?p=404513&postcount=186

You need 06-09 gsxr 600 shock and spring from 03-04 gsxr 1000 with collars/spacers. (or custom spring from racetech). You will also need Steve's linkages to compensate the height drop. Since i cannot use aftermarket linkages in my production race class, i ditched the gsxr shock for RPM 2-way shock [stock ride height] from Taiwan (sold by samw - SportisiMotorSport).

fyi - As several folks from India asked me about the 250 build, i asked PerformanceMotorcycleStore at Bombay to talk to Sportisi & RPM but they did not seem to be interested.

Thanks for the reply Abhijit. I honestly wouldn't be looking at this mod, if I had the 360$ + shipping to shell out for the aftermarket shock. From what I understood from other DIYs is that it really isn't all that complicated, and you can use the stock GSXR spring... I really had no idea about the additional Spring/collars/spacers etc... I will get Steve's linkages though, makes sense to do so.

If you buy Racetech spring matched to your weight, you will not need the additional spacers/collars. If you re-use 03-04 gsxr 1000 spring, you will need it.

It is very easy to do. A change from Steve's method I did was, reuse the top eyelet from the stock shock as i did not like thinning the material on the gsxr shock. But, then disadvantage is, you damage your stock shock (no biggie - you can buy the OEM top eyelet for 11 bucks)

Now, keep in mind, all this spring discussion is based on weight. I weigh 172lb now and gsxr 600 spring was too hard on me. I dont know your weight so you may be good with the stock spring (who knows).

Most important, if you are planning on racing, do check with your local club if they allow modification to the linkages in their respective production class.

This is a great mod at budget price if done right.


Thanks for the reply Abhijit. I honestly wouldn't be looking at this mod, if I had the 360$ + shipping to shell out for the aftermarket shock. From what I understood from other DIYs is that it really isn't all that complicated, and you can use the stock GSXR spring... I really had no idea about the additional Spring/collars/spacers etc... I will get Steve's linkages though, makes sense to do so.

Hey abhijitz Thanks for the valuable input. I weigh in at about 155-160lbs without gear, so I'm assuming it might go up to 170-175lbs with. I'm not likely to race the bike, my main aim is to get it as close to track ready and a super sports as possible. I've already bought the following for the same : -

1) Gold valve emulators.
2) Going to fab my own pre load adjusters.
3) SV650 clipons.

The only things I need now are rearsets, GSXR shock and a new set of tyres... Will keep getting things as I have the money ready. Sometimes I wish I was in the US just so I could race my ninjette... lol

2) Going to fab my own pre load adjusters.

Go get some PVC or metal pipe of the right diameter and cut them into 5 or 10 mm lenghts, and just find the right preload that works for you! Also don't forget to play with oil level to get the forks feeling better.