Having been inspired by slolane, setasai, and Jerskon I went about making my own mount for the Givi E21 bags. My version is essentially a copy of setasai's, except I used welded 3/4" steel rather than bracketed 1" aluminum.

Part of the reason I did this project is I wanted to learn how to weld. I figured this would be a great way to learn, since the welds are all fairly simple and straight forward.

Here is a fairly complete parts list:

E21 Givi Bags
SW-Motech Quicklock Kit
3/4" steel square tube
1" steel square tube
0.75" aluminum flat bar
1" steel flat bar
Thin aluminum tube (for M6 bolt spacers)
Rubber cut from drain pipe fitting
2 - M8 x 65mm socket head bolts (rack to bike bracket)
4 - M6 x 65mm socket head bolts (bike bracket to bike)
2 - M6 x 25mm socket head bolts (cross bar to coupling nuts in rear compartment)
2 - M6 coupling nuts
2 - M6 x 20mm socket head bolts (quick lock bracket)
Rustoleum Primer
Rustoleum Flat Black Textured Paint
6 - 3/4" steel tube plugs

First I went about drilling and welding the main T rack that holds each case. That takes careful measuring to make sure the two holes on the bottom line up properly. I found that it is ideal if they are a bit off (ie, a bit further apart than perfect) since it puts the cases under some tension.

http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/7870/img0494y.jpg

Next I created the trapezoidal brackets that form the bike bracket, the piece that is permanently attached to the bike, which then allows the case rack to attach to. It is 1" steel tube. The aluminum spacer pictured is only one of four, and they are 1.5625 inches long.

http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/7800/img04961.jpg

After installing the trapezoidal brackets to the bike, I was able to attach the main bar that connects the two T racks. As per setasai's advice, I made it longer, mounted it, then determined the final length and cut it down to size. That helps get rid of issues of crooked alignment. Once I thought it was good, I welded it all together. (Note: It still ended up being a bit crooked, but making the holes a bit bigger on the horizontal bar was enough to compensate for that without issue.)

http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/1890/img0511sg.jpg

Off to the paint booth. (ie, the garage door covered in plastic. The garage and whole house smelled like paint..should have done this outside.) Two light coats of primer and two light coats of flat black texture Rustoleum.

http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/1277/img0513o.jpg

Now painted and sealed, I attached the trapezoidal brackets to the bike:

http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/1078/img0518rgh.jpg

On top goes nylon lock nuts on all four bolts. Then on the two closest to the front of the bike, a coupler nut. On the two furtherst back, another regular nut with loctite just for yucks. (These bolts are high quality grade 12.9 steel and have the potential to sheer cheap, non-rated bolts. Not likely in this application, but I figure using two can't hurt. If this mount detached while riding, it could cause immediate death, so it's not worth messing around.)

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/6656/img0514j.jpg

Then in goes a cross bar on top, which is then bolted to the two coupler nuts. This takes some of the pressure off the factory welds which were never intended to carry the load of cases. The fact that the undertail mount is threaded, and the complete lack of fully threaded 100mm+ M6 bolts is why I used a coupler, rather than one long continuous bolt as I would have preferred.

http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/1726/img0520k.jpg

After that, it was a simple matter of putting the various rubber and metal nubs on the rack and the quicklock bracket. Two M8 bolts then attach the whole thing. As setasai came up with, two 1/4" inch pieces of rubber made from flexible drain pipe fittings go between the trapezoidal brackets and the main horiztonal bar. In theory, this allows for some vibration reduction and give. Neither setasai or myself are entirely convinced of the importance or use of this, but we figure it can't hurt.

Here is the final mount all painted, assembled, and attached:

http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/3002/img8898uu.jpg

http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/462/img8900u.jpg

http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/1116/img8905q.jpg

http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/7823/img8907v.jpg

http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/387/img8908z.jpg

Overall, I am extremely satisfied with how it turned out. I'm looking forward to taking some long rides with these cases, and actually having room for my camera gear, clothes, water, etc.

Many thanks go to setasai, who helped considerably in pioneering this particular design, and who was kind enough to answer my questions and bounce ideas off. Issues and questions that came up while I was building this can be seen here (http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=78455), incidentally.

Total cost was over $1000. (Oh the humanity...) But most of that was for the welder (http://www.lowes.com/pd_256722-1703-K2480-1_0__?productId=1072945&Ntt=welder&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dwelder&facetInfo=), argon tank, stand, gear, Evolution Fury 2 metal saw (http://www.amazon.com/Evolution-FURY2-14-Inch-Multipurpose-Cutting/dp/B002BWP2NU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1314599873&sr=8-1) (which cuts metal like butter (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y5k5tJvjygQ) without sparks), Dewalt angle grinder, some flap wheels, and oh, the bags, quicklock set, and steel. But now I'm setup to work on metal, and looking forward to doing more projects. :thumbup:

Wonderful. Just wonderful. That is exactly how I imagined it would come together had I used a welder. But DAMN that is a lot of money. Now there are 2 of this exact design in existence.

Please report back on any issues/design changes you might employ. So far as you know, I'm loving mine right now and have found no problems at all. The only thing is if I wanted to add a topcase, I would need to reinforce the mount for front-to-back forces probably using the passenger pegs. Or i could go the passenger seat route. Who knows.

Kudos, I'm glad I could be of help. Quick question. How hard would it be for you to fab up another one and how much would you think it'd cost now that you've gotten the hang of it all? Also, how much does that setup weight? I wonder how much different it is between steel welded vs aluminum w/ steel bolts/brackets.

EDIT: Forgot to mention that it may be a nice idea to move the turnsignals back a little bit. They get obscured by the cases entirely at there stock location.

/linked from main DIY sticky

Looks awesome. If I were to see that in person without knowing you built it I'd probably ask where you picked up the mount from.:thumbup:

EDIT: Forgot to mention that it may be a nice idea to move the turnsignals back a little bit. They get obscured by the cases entirely at there stock location.

I think a better idea would be to come up with a way to add a second set of LED turn signals mounted to the back sides with some form of weatherproof connectors under the rear seat that are tapped into the stock signals.

This way you could leave your normal signals where they are, then when you mount the cases you just take the seat off and connect the extra set of signals.

EDIT: After looking at the pics again and seeing that he still has the stock tail he could even run the wires inside all the tubing and then up through the same hold in the bottom of the tail that is used to for the stock license plate light.

Wonderful. Just wonderful. That is exactly how I imagined it would come together had I used a welder. But DAMN that is a lot of money. Now there are 2 of this exact design in existence.

Please report back on any issues/design changes you might employ. So far as you know, I'm loving mine right now and have found no problems at all. The only thing is if I wanted to add a topcase, I would need to reinforce the mount for front-to-back forces probably using the passenger pegs. Or i could go the passenger seat route. Who knows.

Kudos, I'm glad I could be of help. Quick question. How hard would it be for you to fab up another one and how much would you think it'd cost now that you've gotten the hang of it all? Also, how much does that setup weight? I wonder how much different it is between steel welded vs aluminum w/ steel bolts/brackets.

EDIT: Forgot to mention that it may be a nice idea to move the turn signals back a little bit. They get obscured by the cases entirely at there stock location.

Thanks for your kind words! I will definitely report back here as needed for any changes I make.

You are correct that now that I've made one mount, making another would be much easier. It's still a *ton* of work though, so I don't think I'd be too interested in doing them as kits for people. Materials would probably be $30-40 excluding the bags and quicklock kit, but my time would be the killer part. I wouldn't be surprised if it took 5 hours even now that I know how to do it.

As for the turn signals, I noticed the exact same thing. I was thinking I might put some flush mount signals on the bags themselves, since even if I moved the stock ones forward I think they would still be blocked somewhat. It would be a fun project, but I'm not sure I'm interested in drilling holes in those beautiful, expensive bags.

The total weight, I'm not sure. I should have weighted it before I mounted it, but the thought of taking it off right now for the ten thousandth time makes me shudder. So, I just weighted some square tube, and it's 20.8g per inch. There are 53 inches of square tube total, making for 1.102kb, or 2.4lb. That is excluding the quicklock nubs and bracket.

Looks awesome. If I were to see that in person without knowing you built it I'd probably ask where you picked up the mount from.:thumbup:



I think a better idea would be to come up with a way to add a second set of LED turn signals mounted to the back sides with some form of weatherproof connectors under the rear seat that are tapped into the stock signals.

This way you could leave your normal signals where they are, then when you mount the cases you just take the seat off and connect the extra set of signals.

EDIT: After looking at the pics again and seeing that he still has the stock tail he could even run the wires inside all the tubing and then up through the same hold in the bottom of the tail that is used to for the stock license plate light.

Thanks!

And that is hilarious that you posted that, since I was thinking the exact same thing. As I just said in my reply to setasai though, I'm not gung ho about drilling holes in the bags. I suppose I could stick something to the outside, but that's not my style. ;)

Thanks for your kind words! I will definitely report back here as needed for any changes I make.

You are correct that now that I've made one mount, making another would be much easier. It's still a *ton* of work though, so I don't think I'd be too interested in doing them as kits for people. Materials would probably be $30-40 excluding the bags and quicklock kit, but my time would be the killer part. I wouldn't be surprised if it took 5 hours even now that I know how to do it.

As for the turn signals, I noticed the exact same thing. I was thinking I might put some flush mount signals on the bags themselves, since even if I moved the stock ones forward I think they would still be blocked somewhat. It would be a fun project, but I'm not sure I'm interested in drilling holes in those beautiful, expensive bags.

The total weight, I'm not sure. I should have weighted it before I mounted it, but the thought of taking it off right now for the ten thousandth time makes me shudder. So, I just weighted some square tube, and it's 20.8g per inch. There are 53 inches of square tube total, making for 1.102kb, or 2.4lb. That is excluding the quicklock nubs and bracket.

Thanks!

And that is hilarious that you posted that, since I was thinking the exact same thing. As I just said in my reply to setasai though, I'm not gung ho about drilling holes in the bags. I suppose I could stick something to the outside, but that's not my style. ;)



Don't drill holes for mounting the lights to the cases. Use 3M double sided Automotive tape. That what almost all Car manufacturers use to attach the vehicle emblems and name plates to the sides of cars without using screws. I use it to attach the LED light bar under the tailgate on my truck. In almost 2 years it hasn't come loose or even shifted.

Don't drill holes for mounting the lights to the cases. Use 3M double sided Automotive tape. That what almost all Car manufacturers use to attach the vehicle emblems and name plates to the sides of cars without using screws. I use it to attach the LED light bar under the tailgate on my truck. In almost 2 years it hasn't come loose or even shifted.

That's very true. The best benefit of drilling holes though us that it gives you more options to hide wire. I hate seeing cables, so I don't think I'd like to stick it to the outside. I dunno though...it might be worth it.

I know I need to do something though, because right now they are buried.

The reason I suggested it is because I moved them back a little bit and they work just fine. I definitely wouldnt drill into or stick them on the cases either. Look at some of the photos and you'll see where I moved them to and you can decide if you like that.

Another reason not to mount more turn signals onto the case is that we dont have that quick connect for the lights like givi has them on their higher end sidecases. I dont think i'd want to keep disconnecting and reconnecting each time i take the case off.

Again, kudos. Oh FYI, i asked how hard it would be to make another one because i'm so jealous of how nicely it turned out that I had an itch to ask you to make me one. haha. :p:thumbup: Enjoy extra storage space and the ability to still have a passenger!

EDIT: here is the thread i used to give me the idea of relocating the turn signals if you're interested in going that route. http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=26436 As always, feel free to let me know if you have any questions.

Thanks for the thread on relocating the turn signals. Am I correct in assuming I'd have to remove the fender to do that? I'd hate to have to remove everything I just attached for the 10,000 time.

Did my first ride yesterday. All was well...until the last mile of my ride. I took my hands off my handlebars around 50 mph as I often do to for a brief stretch, and the bike started shaking. I looked down and I was headed for a tank slapper. Tried it at different speeds, even really slow, and it does the exact same thing.

It didn't used to - so either the weight in the back is messing with it, or it's a coincidence that I noticed it now. Will investigate further, and I have read all of kkim's thread on the matter.

You should be able to remove the left side fairing without removing the tail of the bike. As for the stability issue, not sure. I've never really took both my hands off the handlebars before. The cases have seemed to make my bike more stable with the extra weight. Kinda like a pole would for balance beams.

So, I did another ride this evening, and found that the bike would wobble at pretty much all speeds as soon as I took my hands off the handlebars.

I came back home, took the bags off (one which was 8.3lbs, and one that was 10.2 lbs upon weighing) and went back out. Vastly reduced wobbling resulted. Where before if I let it go it would head for a tank slapper, this would almost simmer itself down. It also did it much less or not at all towards lower speeds, being most pronounced around 40-50 mph.

Sounds like the rear weight may just exacerbate an existing problem.

Next time you're out with bags loaded to a similar weight, would you mind testing your bike? If you're comfortable with it, just cup your handlebars like they're larger than they are. It's a fairly safe way of taking your hands off the bars, since if it starts wiggling you can just close your hands and regain control.

Tested it at speeds around 50mph and downwards until it got to about 20mph and no shaking. I mean i felt road bumps but it wasnt getting out of hand or anything. Pretty stable. Maybe you have misaligned forks?

Good to know there is nothing intrinsic about rear weight that makes our bikes unstable.

I don't think I'm going to worry about the wobble. Could be the forks, but the wobble thread seems to suggest that it's not easy to track down. Might be due for some new tires soon, and I suspect that will probably do the trick.

If it's not throwing the bike in circles then leave it be. How long have you had those tires for? I've had the original IRCs on for over 5100miles now with alot of life left.

How have you been enjoying the sidecases? I've been using them more for emergency supplies more than anything. I feel better knowing I have a spare visor and tire repair tools along with some meds in case I get a headache. Riding with a helmet and a headache is just miserable.

My tires are stock from 2009, with around 2600 miles. (2000 of which are mine, starting from mid April 2011.) Treads still look fine, so I'm not going to worry about it.

I haven't really taken advantage of the bags yet since it's only been a few days, but it is positively delightful to actually have some room on the bike. I really feel empowered by it, like I can actually pack some clothes, etc.. and go for a real ride. Photography is also a hobby of mine, and the cases will let me bring more than just a single lens to all the places I ride to.

The emergency kit stuff is great though as well. I've been slowly getting all that sorted in prep for the ability to do long trips. That was my thinking in doing the jumper cables, getting a Slime mini air pump, etc.

So, when you want to meetup halfway between Portland and San Jose? :thumbup:

Haha I'd be down to meet. I would have to get back to you on a potential day though. Working on some application essays for med school so I need to get those squared away before I go.

I was able to pack about a week's worth of clothing between the 2 w/ emergency kit stuff and still had room to spare. I did have a tailbag with my laptop and other electronics though. Worked like a charm because at my destination I just unlocked the sidecases. It became "carry in luggage" if you will.

Worked like a charm because at my destination I just unlocked the sidecases. It became "carry in luggage" if you will.

Yes, that is a great feature. Especially if you're carrying expensive camera / computer equipment, and you're not real interested in leaving it all night on the bike parked outside Joe's Seedy Motel.

I think that's the best argument for these hard cases versus soft bags that have to securely fastened and unfastened each time you add and remove them.

OK, got an issue. Looks like my exhaust is melting my right bag every so slightly. The sort of textured finish has become slightly shiny in one spot. Here are some pics:

http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/4079/img0532nr.jpg

http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/3295/img0531u.jpg

http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/1619/img0533an.jpg

So, do you have any of this? If not, how far exactly is the closest part of your bag to the exhaust?

I have room to move mine up, but I'll have to take apart the entire thing, cut the shims down, and possibly get new bolts. :(

Update: Just took a 25 min ride, mostly highway. According to my IR thermometer, the plastic spot was 250 degrees. The plastic closest to the pipe was only just above 100.

I can raise the whole thing 5-7mm without any significant modifications, but other than that I'm stuck. Not sure if that will be enough. Other ideas would be to put an insulating pad on the bottom of that bag, or build something to deflect the exhaust downwards.

OK, I bit the bullet and remounted the whole thing with 65mm bolts and newly cut aluminum spacers. (An exciting way to spend a Saturday night.)

There is now about a half inch between the top of the exhaust and the bottom of the case. I'm having a hard time imagining that will be sufficient to fix this problem though.

I just checked mine. It "might" have a similar heat spot showing up but it doesnt look nearly as large as yours. Might be the picture. Good question. Not sure what to do about this and I'm also surprised because none of my research has shown it to have issues with exhaust heat.

How badly does it look? I'm considering just putting some heat shield foil on the bottom of the case and call it day. You know the stuff that people wrap around vents? Some kind of aluminum tape. It doesnt look disfiguring or anything but only time will tell.

Is your's right under on top of the muffler or does it look like it's where the exhaust gases might hit the case?

I have about half inch of space so I doubt it'd change anything. it's radiating heat that affects it.

I just checked mine. It "might" have a similar heat spot showing up but it doesnt look nearly as large as yours. Might be the picture. Good question. Not sure what to do about this and I'm also surprised because none of my research has shown it to have issues with exhaust heat.

How badly does it look? I'm considering just putting some heat shield foil on the bottom of the case and call it day. You know the stuff that people wrap around vents? Some kind of aluminum tape. It doesnt look disfiguring or anything but only time will tell.

Is your's right under on top of the muffler or does it look like it's where the exhaust gases might hit the case?

I have about half inch of space so I doubt it'd change anything. it's radiating heat that affects it.

If anything, the spot looks worse in real life than the pictures, so mine is probably worse than yours. Mine was mounted closer though, so that makes sense.

I just took an ill advised 20 min night ride to test my remounting. The IR meter showed above 200 degrees, but it was not 250, and the hot spot was further back on the corner. So that is a definite improvement.

As for something to really fix it, I've been thinking about it. The real issue is heat, so attaching a metal plate would not be a great idea. I'm also not a real fan of anything sticky, like tape. Here are a few random ideas:

1) An offset metal plate. Something that is attached to the bottom of the bracket mount, or less preferred attached to the bag with spacers. That should deflect the heat without transferring it into the bag.

2) Insulation of some kind:

a) I stopped by an Autozone today. In the muffler repair section, I found a bracket designed to patch a hole in an exhaust. It comes with a fabric, ceramic material that is probably a great insulator. It's only like 2" x 4" though. Then again, that's about the size of the hot spot on the bag, so somehow adhering that would probably do the trick.

b) Attach a soldering blanket (http://www.amazon.com/Steiner-Carbonized-Fiber-Blanket-18in/dp/B000FNUFRA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1315122060&sr=8-1). They're used for doing plumbing soldering with a torch. You put them behind your joint, to protect the wall from catching fire while you heat up the pipe.

3) Deflect the exhust somehow.

Insulation is probably the simplest thing, but the devil is in the details how to mount it in a way that looks halfway decent, doesn't harm the expensive bags, and is permanent.

Ok posted an update on my DIY on the exhaust heat/gases issue.

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showpost.php?p=380377&postcount=52

Only one question. Was everything assembled at right angles?

Only one question. Was everything assembled at right angles?

Yes, if memory serves. For what it's worth, I've since sold my Ninja, and will probably be selling the mount and bags, so if anyone is interested PM me.

Yes, if memory serves. For what it's worth, I've since sold my Ninja, and will probably be selling the mount and bags, so if anyone is interested PM me.

I'm interested. I'll PM you.

Lol. I'll eventually build my own like this :thumbup:

Old thread, I know. I'm not a fan of luggage on ninjas, but it's a cool project and well done.

Just one thing while welding, bevel those edges into a v. This is especially important if you're gonna be grinding them smooth. You'll get much better root penetration and have less to grind at the same time.

My employer blocks images from some photo sites, so today was the first time I'd see the pictures... WOW WHAT A NICE JOB. Those look GREAT!

Well I'd like to thank NathanF for such a great job. He was nice enough to sell me his setup and I must say it turned out extremely nice. Next for me is adding some small LED signals to the bags and making a plug and play set up. It's always important to me to limit any stock changes in case I choose to sell one day. :rolleyes:

Here's a quick pic of the bags mounted up.

http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh15/dubojr1/Motorcycles/2009%20Ninja%20250R/6629BD84-E08B-4864-90A9-91088D15DBC8-1400-000001F6E7483E13_zpsb2a76cfc.jpg

Here's some of the parts I've decided to use for the signals. I wanted it to be a quick disconnect setup.

Surface mount receptacle:

http://www.thebatteryminder.com/images/DAS-FLUSH%20WS_edited-1.jpg

Wiring to LED turn signal:

http://www.solarcapitalist.com/images/products/detail/16awg5ft.JPG

Mini Amber LED Marker light:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41C-Qy1nR7L._SL500_AA300_.jpg

I plan to sand the chrome finish off the lights and paint them flat black to match the cases. Should turn out nice once everything is done. :)

Looks great man! Glad you're enjoying them. I always wanted to add turn signals, but never got around to it. It's really a great idea, since these bags do hide the stock signals to some degree.

I was actually thinking it would be neat to build connectors into the mount itself, such that the bags simply being installed would make electrical contact. That is a lot more complicated to pull off though, and would probably not be as reliable as what you're doing.

Looks great man! Glad you're enjoying them. I always wanted to add turn signals, but never got around to it. It's really a great idea, since these bags do hide the stock signals to some degree.

I was actually thinking it would be neat to build connectors into the mount itself, such that the bags simply being installed would make electrical contact. That is a lot more complicated to pull off though, and would probably not be as reliable as what you're doing.

Yeah I looked for those types of connections but had no luck. The setup I'm pursuing should cost ~$40 total which I thought was reasonable. I'm hoping to install it all in a manner that if me or the wife forgets to disconnect the plug that it will "break away" with no damage. I'll post updated pics later. :thumbup:

Man, I really like that panel mount 2 pin connector! I think I'll use that one too! What a great idea. The idea of quick disconnect mounted to the bags is neat too, but may be problematic... I'm thinking simple is best.

In my ham radio hobby we use anderson power poles and the closest we get to what you suggested is http://www.powerwerx.com/powerpole-accessories/moisture-proof-splash-boot.html . Not nearly as practical.

Well I'd like to thank NathanF for such a great job. He was nice enough to sell me his setup and I must say it turned out extremely nice. Next for me is adding some small LED signals to the bags and making a plug and play set up. It's always important to me to limit any stock changes in case I choose to sell one day. :rolleyes:

Here's a quick pic of the bags mounted up.

http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh15/dubojr1/Motorcycles/2009%20Ninja%20250R/6629BD84-E08B-4864-90A9-91088D15DBC8-1400-000001F6E7483E13_zpsb2a76cfc.jpg

Here's some of the parts I've decided to use for the signals. I wanted it to be a quick disconnect setup.

Surface mount receptacle:

http://www.thebatteryminder.com/images/DAS-FLUSH%20WS_edited-1.jpg

Wiring to LED turn signal:

http://www.solarcapitalist.com/images/products/detail/16awg5ft.JPG

Mini Amber LED Marker light:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41C-Qy1nR7L._SL500_AA300_.jpg

I plan to sand the chrome finish off the lights and paint them flat black to match the cases. Should turn out nice once everything is done. :)

Jason,

Where did you get that neat surface mount receptical?

Jason,

Where did you get that neat surface mount receptical?

Got it here: http://www.solarcapitalist.com/sae2pin-surface-mount-connect.aspx?MMP=101IDFX9DDA

I was also SUPER surprised when he reimbursed some money that was not used for shipping. GREAT guy!

Hey, just wondering how the setup's been holding up for you and if there are any modifications you'd make to them. I'm thinking of taking my aluminum build to a welder and have them create the exact thing in steel 1/2inch tubing.

I'm still loving my setup. I have since replaced the cowl with a trunk to store my helmet in for my daily commutes to work. I still need to complete the turn signal project but I'm completely satisfied with things for now.