Thought I'd get that out of the way. I've been crash free since I started in 2007 (knock on wood), but have had several close calls. My wife on the other hand has been down 4 times, all of them very slow and her injuries range from none to some rash, leaving some scars. She still loves riding though. I got to hand it to her. She is pretty tough.

And short, 5', taller with her boots on.

And that brings us to why I am posting this.

My son, now 18 and in college wanted a motorcycle, so now we have three.
My BMW F800ST, wifes' Honda Rebel CMX250 and sons' Ninja 250. I rode the bike after getting it from the dealership (bought through ebay) and brought it the 50 miles to our house. Then my wife rode it. Son is at school and can't ride it during the week, too cold recently anyway.

Her mishap was in the parking lot. Less than walking speed if you can believe it. She misjudged distance to the bars and didn't have firm control. The bike started tipping and it became too much for her and just went down.

Now we are in the process of repairing the damage.

Main left fairing pushed the turnsignal through and a few other cracks of 3"-5" and a small piece missing. Gorilla glue is amazing stuff. Bought it to fix the fairing and so far it seems like it will work.

This bike had been down before. So we had to really clean the fairing, remove the old glue, via dremel/sand paper and decided to re-do the whole fairing where imperfections etc. were. So, a lot of sanding.

Once the glue dried, more sanding.

The tail fairing had some damage on both sides, so i removed it.

The mirror, bar end and clutch end were scratched, so more sanding.

The bike had been repainted (poorly) not a good match either.

Now I'm debating to pull the fender and the front cowling=LOTS MORE WORK but won't she be purdy?!

Since I am on a tight budget, I really can't afford Color Rite or PPG paints/primers/clear coat, although I may have to bite the bullet. Are there any other more affordable options?

Do I have to use a primer?
I am not against it, just need to know if it is necessary.

How many coats of paint are recommended?

Lightly sand between coats needed?

Clear coat recommended?
How many coats?
Sand between coats with #150 Fine OK?

Flat black for the mirror, turnsignal and clutch lever OK?
Primer needed?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks:)

What is your budget? What are you planning on using to paint the bike?

You can buy a quart of nason(dupornt) paint for about $50. $11 for reducer, $26 for a quart of clear, $12 for hardener. (you could save money using single stage) I've done some really decent jobs with a $10 harbor freight gun. just need more sanding to get the clear orange peel free.


no need for primer just scuff the plastic. I use 220 before painting. 400 on higher end jobs.

I charger racers around here $325 for a singe color on decent shape plastics not needing repair. i would usually do some fiber glass on the backside of the plastic to reinforce a damaged area. go at least 2 inches past the cracks. get the bondo kit at autozone...really easy to use, just follow directions.

Jasle,
Thanks for the info. I will look into what you said, especially regarding the Bondo Kit . I had thought that fiberglass would have a hard time bonding to the plastic. Isn't that true? What do you recommend? I have heard that drilling a bunch of holes, allowing resin to create a "foothold" then sanding, is one way, but I have never done it.

Would you use that method? What size drill bit? etc.?

what color are you looking for?

I just repainted mine. Used bondo, fiber glass, laquer primer then finally a single stage black paint. looks pretty damn good too :)

The fiberglass will bond to the plastic fine, just make sure you scuff it up nice with some sandpaper. :D

any other question please let me know. i can even show you the place I got my paint. I paid $80 for it all including shipping...

Also if you are just shooting over the old paint use 400 grit (wet its easier) 220 is to course unless you plan on primering it... unless you are trying to get some of the damage out or are going over the bondo/fiberglass, I would use 320 grit though.. I think thats what I used. My build thread (http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=93085&highlight=massacremasses+ninja+evolution)

I've been getting my paint and supplies from http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/

Really fast shipping and great prices, plus they're easy to order from using their 800 number. I generally shoot Kirker catalyzed urethanes, both single-stage and base/clear systems, as well as the occasional three-stage candy. Here's my 2011 color:

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=559&pictureid=6679

My 2010 color:

http://www.kirkerautomotive.com/html/gallery_view.asp?ID=382&SORT=220

http://www.kirkerautomotive.com/user_uploads/large_382_4.jpg

^I got the paint there per his suggestion. I was happy with it :)

Thanks guys. It is reassuring to know that there is lots of body work/paint experience here on this site. Although I've done tons of rattle can, I have never done paint gun, and my compressor is too small. The HF gun I have needs 12scfm@45psi, so i need to upgrade, sigh...

Went to Ace Hardware and picked up the 220 and 400 grit waterproof sandpaper.

I got all but the tank and right main fairing off. They could be painted and probably should be, to make sure it all matches, but they are OK. Still have to pull the headlight out, etc. but things are progressing.

So, so far I learned that I don't have to use primer, but all surfaces to be painted have to be scuffed.

Thanks for that tip about the cheaper source for paint/supplies. The bike is Passion Red and I just want to match it, not change.

I am starting to think I will need to put up plastic sheets to create a "paint booth" don't want paint flying all over the place.

I should take some photos and post them. It might help someone else!

itd be cheaper to just repaint the whole thing I bet in all honesty...

Sorry to hear your wife went down. However, it at that low speed it sounds like she wasn't injured badly.

So far, I have created a "paint booth". It is about one stall of a two stall garage in size. I mounted 6 eye bolts with lag bolts into the ceiling studs (finished ceiling) and ran a rope through the eyebolts. Then, I attached 50' x 10' 4mil plastic sheeting with clothespins. I cut a small hole at one end for a window box fan on the floor to exhaust the fumes. The opposite side has an overlapping entry point. When not in use, the plastic sheet is gathered and held up near the ceiling by 10" elasticized loops with a 1" plastic ball end.

I have the HF 66222 HVLP gun and I also bought the HF 44677 turbine spray gun kit.
I called Auto Body Tool Mart and then I called Kyle from Kirker paint and we talked for a while. I described the project and my experience level and he recommended I buy the following:
1 qt epoxy primer sealer
1 qt. catalyst
1 gal. reducer
1 qt base coat
1 qt clear
Of course I will need the compressor and other supplies, like paint filters, disposable paint cups, etc. I bought 220, 400, 600 and 1000 grits wet and dry sandpaper.

I upgraded some of the lighting a while ago, so now I have 4 of the modern t8 high output fluorescents and 6 of the old style 40w fixtures plus a window and I have other auxillary lighting options, so I will be able to see well. I don't really have a problem with getting a decent compressor so that I can push paint. I have a few other pneumatic tools I would like to get so it's a good excuse, I guess.

I have looked extensively at the vinyl skins mentioned above. They are truly amazing and I will consider it. There are several good youtube videos that show how to apply it and I think it is something that I could do and it would turn out well. The costs are well below $300 if you DIYS.

So, which way should I go guys?

I'm gonna paint. :)

Is the list of supplies correct? Do I need to add anything?