I figured I did the DIY over at another forum, so it'd be fair-game to start spreading the DIY knowledge!

A quick side-note on what this process accomplishes. Being as this type of motorcycle uses two carburetors (one for each cylinder) for maximum efficiency you want to ensure each cylinder is working equally. A sure-fire way to 'check' to see how hard each cylinder is working is by seeing if both of the cylinders are pulling equally. So how do you check to ensure each cylinder is pulling identically :confused: ... Carburetor syncing!


First off here's all the parts I used...
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=149
(2) Identical glass bottles
(1) section roughly 10'-15' in length of 1/4" ID hose (sold at any hardware store)
(2) rubber corks (also sold at hardware stores). BRING the glass bottles with you so you can find a cork that will fit in the bottle to seal it!
(1) 3/16" 4-way vacuum tee (sold at auto-parts store)
(2) 3/16" vacuum caps

You can use damn near any glass bottle for the task (I liked the tallness of those expensive 'sparkling water' bottles so I used them). Only fill them up a 1/3 of the way with something like vegetable oil (It's preferred to a liquid like water as it won't develop algae). Drill two 1/4" holes in two rubber corks. This is trickier than you'd think as rubber will expand after you drill the hole, so you have to keep drilling in and out into and test fitting until you can slide the 1/4" ID hose in very snugly. First cut a length of 1/4" ID hose that will go through the corks and touch the bottom of each bottle (So each bottle is connected via this one hose). Then then cut 2-4' long or so hoses to actually hook up to the carburetor ports. Each of those hoses will go into one of the bottles (One for each port) and only needs to protrude slightly past the bottom of the cork (Otherwise that carburetor will suck up vegetable oil).
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=144
I've scared up a little diagram of the hose routing as to solidify HOW to route it...

On the bottom of the picture I also used one FOUR-WAY 3/16" vacuum tee (although I used the tee in the project so in the picture is a three-way tee). and two 3/16" vacuum caps.


To begin:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=143
I made 'permanent' vacuum taps for each cylinder and I found it easiest to do on the left side of the bike. This entails that you can easily sync your carburetors in the future by simply removing two vacuum plugs and hooking up the sync'ing rig...

Zooming in you'll see a tee that ties into the right cylinder that tees one way to the fuel shut off and the other way towards the front of the bike.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=147

I took this tee out and added a 4-way tee and simply plugged (with a vacuum cap) thus providing a vacuum port for the right cylinder. SAVE the 3-way tee as you can use it for the other cylinder.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=148



If I zoom out a little bit you can see the new tee with the blue vacuum cap on it. Now for the right cylinder...
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=142
Remember that little tidbit about 'saving' the 3-way tee from the left cylinder's vacuum lines? Simply cut an 1-1/2" section of hose from where it connects (see above) add that tee, a vacuum cap and viola!

So now you have a vacuum source from each cylinder that you can use to test how much each cylinder is pulling at idle. Sitting right between each carburetor is a lone screw which you can adjust the bias between each throttle on each carburetor (odd wording I know).

Right about now I'd suggest taking the bike out and getting it up to ideal running temperature (with the front fairings off). Hell I ran out to pick up some cheapy vegetable oil myself for the test rig. Once you return hook up the test rig...
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=145

There are various ways to check the vacuum force of each cylinder and the two bottle method is an easy way to visually see this. Here I have a hose going from each test port to each of those bottle mentioned earlier. If you look in the middle of the picture and see a small phillips screwdriver? That's the bias screw for each of the carburetors.

Before you say, "How the heck do you get TO that screw?" I've found the ultimate tool for doing ANY carburetor work on the 250's
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=141
Your local hardware store should sell this: The Milwaukee Offset screwdriver. It allows you to get into tight confines and turn things that need to be turned :thumbup:.

I filmed a video of the carbs out of sync and of them IN sync, but the quality was lacking and it was hard to distinguish. I mentioned ONLY filling each of the bottles 1/3 of the way up and here's where this comes in handy. After you hook up the test rig and fire the bike up it can be hard to see what's going on. I let the bike run for a minute to make sure it was at ideal operating temperature and at that point one of the bottles was 2/3 of the way full and the other was empty (The carburetors were very out of sync). I started turning the screw down and slowly a very bubbly (and very visible) stream of vegetable oil began transferring back to it's original bottle). Once the bottles were close to equal in oil again I backed the screw off until the bubbly oil in the transfer hose (between the two bottles) ceased moving. Once the oil is still in the tube connecting the two bottles, your carburetors are in sync. Then after shutting off the engine you can disconnect the rig and put vacuum caps on the open vacuum tees.


You can also adjust your idle if need be as the bike is in ideal running order and fully warmed up. People keep asking how and what to adjust the idle to. The manual says 1,350 rpm, but I found the bike happy at 1,500. To each their own I suppose.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=146
In the above picture is a shot with the fairing back in place of the idle adjustment knob. It's easily accessible although you really don't need to use it often (I KNOW a lot of people love turning things and calling their selves mechanics ).

Great thread! :thumbup: Thanks, Vex!

ahhh.. so, it begins. :D

great revision to the syncing DIY. I like how clean this one is. Thank you, sir.

For those of you that don't drink as much as Vex (sparkling water... HA!!!), I purchased an electronic version of his contraption. You spend a bit more, but don't end up with quite the hangover. :(

http://www.adventuremotogear.com/twinmax-p-28.html

whatever way you decide to go, a properly synced bike runs smoother.

You spend a bit more, but don't end up with quite the hangover. :(

I used two rum bottles, myself! LOL!

ahhh.. so, it begins. :D

great revision to the syncing DIY. I like how clean this one is. Thank you, sir.

For those of you that don't drink as much as Vex (sparkling water... HA!!!), I purchased an electronic version of his contraption. You spend a bit more, but don't end up with quite the hangover. :(

http://www.adventuremotogear.com/twinmax-p-28.html

whatever way you decide to go, a properly synced bike runs smoother.

+1

I also went with something different.

http://www.carbtune.com/

Good to have options :)

yes, any way to accomplish this is good, no matter the tools used. The message should be, your carb syncing should be checked. Mine was off from the factory when I checked mine with less than 100 miles on it.

As some of us know Sync'ing carbs is not really as strait forward as check it @ idled and your done. Witch leeds to my Q.... Has anyone checked there cards @ your optimum riding RPM? Under lode in the 8 to 10K range? If so how far off or if at all was your carbs from idled? I haven't taken the time my self to do this but I know i dont really care about idle. I wont the carbs matched when i need the power....

This is not to say that matching @ idle is bad. If nothing els you should do this. Im just looking @ the next step is all.

Seeing that KKIM has a Electronic gizmo I volunteer him to look into this for us all. LOL

P.S. OK get to work.......LOL

Hi Dave,

I've never checked mine at that high an rpm, but I have checked between idle and 3k where you usually rev to take off from. I do see some shift from idle and 3k. I'll do some checking this weekend and see what the results are at 8-10k, but I have no idea how to do that under load in the garage. I'd be afraid to be looking at that thing while riding. :eek:

It's my understanding that the carb sync at high revs under significant load isn't nearly as important as at low revs. Not because you want your two pistons to be out of sync, but because at high revs / high load your throttle is almost all the way open, you're using the main jets in the carbs, and any differences between the two cylinders are going to a be very small factor compared to the power being produced by either.

When you're idling along with the smaller jets at very small throttle openings, that's when just a little difference is much more noticeable as vibration and a poorer running engine. :2cents:

It's my understanding that the carb sync at high revs under significant load isn't nearly as important as at low revs. Not because you want your two pistons to be out of sync, but because at high revs / high load your throttle is almost all the way open, you're using the main jets in the carbs, and any differences between the two cylinders are going to a be very small factor compared to the power being produced by either.

When you're idling along with the smaller jets at very small throttle openings, that's when just a little difference is much more noticeable as vibration and a poorer running engine. :2cents:

That was my understanding, too, which is why I checked the diff at idle and at 3k... with 3k being close to where you rev to take off. I've noticed that the meter will shift as the revs go up, so I have tried 1) splitting the difference, 2) leaving it equal at idle and 3) syncing it at 3k. For me, I have found leaving it synced at idle gave me a smoother running engine.


I'll check what Dave is asking and see what it is at higher revs. If I remember correctly, after a certain rpm level (5-6k), the meter did not keep changing and the sync diff reading read a constant offset to one side of center.

Totoly agree with what your are saying about jetting and syncking. Im just wondering how much a difference you could see if the butterfly's are off @ a more WOT setting..... in upper rpms. OR if the two cylinders are seeing = Vac do to improper throttle stop settings.

Yes I've had this debate with someone else about syncing at higher RPM's. But I think kkim and Alex rather hit the nail on the head. I'll honestly do the idle and 3k check and call it a day. Usually if you sacrifice the bottom a little to one cylinder it'll favor the other cylinder at 3k. So usually at idle it'll be a little off (say pulling more to cylinder #1) and at 3k RPM it'll pull more on cylinder #2...

Yes I've had this debate with someone else about syncing at higher RPM's. But I think kkim and Alex rather hit the nail on the head. I'll honestly do the idle and 3k check and call it a day. Usually if you sacrifice the bottom a little to one cylinder it'll favor the other cylinder at 3k. So usually at idle it'll be a little off (say pulling more to cylinder #1) and at 3k RPM it'll pull more on cylinder #2...

that's excatly what I've found... so my question to you is, how is yours set? :)

have not played with the bike yet to check the sync at higher rpms, but wanted to add to what Vex said earlier about taps to provide easy access to the vacuum spigots. I added tees to make extra ports available and ran separate lines out to the side of the bike so when I need to check the sync, it's just a matter of removing the side cover and hooking up the meter to the two hoses shown in this pic just below the tank with the blue caps on them.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SFnGHCohekI/AAAAAAAAAZY/4xPTNC4hs1s/s640/DSC04363-1.JPG

have not played with the bike yet to check the sync at higher rpms, but wanted to add to what Vex said earlier about taps to provide easy access to the vacuum spigots. I added tees to make extra ports available and ran separate lines out to the side of the bike so when I need to check the sync, it's just a matter of removing the side cover and hooking up the meter to the two hoses shown in this pic just below the tank with the blue caps on them.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SFnGHCohekI/AAAAAAAAAZY/4xPTNC4hs1s/s640/DSC04363-1.JPG

Thats really trick... but can you still get to the sync screw between the carbs without tearing the rest of the bike apart?

Thats really trick... but can you still get to the sync screw between the carbs without tearing the rest of the bike apart?

nope, but it at least saves me from tearing the bike down to the point where I needed to check the sync only to find out it does/doesn't need it. I did it mainly for when I was playing with jetting and to check to see if each change I made affected the sync.

also, if it does need to be synced, with the Milwaukee offset screwdriver that Vex shows, it's just a matter of removing the left bottom fairing to get to the sync screw.

nope, but it at least saves me from tearing the bike down to the point where I needed to check the sync only to find out it does/doesn't need it. I did it mainly for when I was playing with jetting and to check to see if each change I made affected the sync.

also, if it does need to be synced, with the Milwaukee offset screwdriver that Vex shows, it's just a matter of removing the left bottom fairing to get to the sync screw.

OK, I'm turned on. :)

OK, I'm turned on. :)Aren't you always??? ... but that's an entirely different subject. ;)

Aren't you always??? ... but that's an entirely different subject. ;)

Well yeah! But you're not my type! :p

Well yeah! But you're not my type! :p

whew!!! thank you! :yo:

I'm made this vacuum setup and was wondering, why did you guys use 1/4 ID tubing on the test rig when the fittings on the bike are only 3/16"? I had to use adapters because there was no way that was going to make a good seal.

Also, thanks for the test port idea kkim. I'm setting mine up similar to yours.

I used 1/4" because I have a ton of it lying around :p As for the fitament, the 1/16" difference yields no difference in fitament. That and since you're only using the vacuum lines for a couple of minutes at a time (whenever you're syncing) worrying about anything vibrating loose isn't a concern.

quick question. Where did you guys find that four way tee? None of my local part stores have them....

found mine at the local autoparts store. it's in the section that has all the different stuff for vacuum lines. :)

strange... i looked and they only had eather 90 degree elbows or 3 way tees...

keep looking or buy the 3 way and add a 2 way to one of the 3 way outputs. :)

btw, why do you need a 4 way?

this DIY points to a 4 way tee to replace a 3 way tee...

sorry... yeah was thinking of something else. :o

like I said, make your own, if you can't find a 4 way, by putting a 3 way on one of the 4 way ports.

have you tried looking in a couple of different auto parts stores? how about hardware stores like Ace?

i will do a more comprehensive search later today... thanks for your help as always! Now if only i could figure out whether to get a carb sinch tool or to rig one....

try rigging one... if it doesn't work, you're not out a lot of money.

the ones you buy are great and are convenient, but each has their good features and drawbacks.

i found the 4 way tee yesterday at local napa. He had to pull it out of some random box. It was not on the shelf... I will try rigging one i guess... Thanks for all the help!

I just installed the 3 way tee for the right cyclinder port and just noticed something. I think I may have cut too much of the tubing because it seems like its putting a lot of pressure onto tee on both ends. I don't like the way it looks and it seems that eventually the tees could put enough pressure on the tube that it causes it to wear out. Stupid me.

So I'm off to either buy a longer 3 way tee or buy tubing to replace whats already there and try again cutting a smaller amount of the tubing out. If I read this thread correctly the stock size is 3/16in correct?

Also for anyone attempting to do this...and item on the "Parts needed" list that wasnt included...I dont know what they are called but you need two of those clamp things that secure the tubes to the tee's for the new 3 way tee for the right port. Or you could just use a zip tie as I see Vex had on one of his tubes. Its always those little things that get me...

I just installed the 3 way tee for the right cyclinder port and just noticed something. I think I may have cut too much of the tubing because it seems like its putting a lot of pressure onto tee on both ends. I don't like the way it looks and it seems that eventually the tees could put enough pressure on the tube that it causes it to wear out. Stupid me.

So I'm off to either buy a longer 3 way tee or buy tubing to replace whats already there and try again cutting a smaller amount of the tubing out. If I read this thread correctly the stock size is 3/16in correct?

Also for anyone attempting to do this...and item on the "Parts needed" list that wasnt included...I dont know what they are called but you need two of those clamp things that secure the tubes to the tee's for the new 3 way tee for the right port. Or you could just use a zip tie as I see Vex had on one of his tubes. Its always those little things that get me...


3/16" is the correct size. FYI...clamps on vacuum lines are "icing on the cake", but not really necessary.

This is true...but it doesnt hurt to pick some up if your already going to the hardware store to pick up some of these supplies. Just wanted to let others know that these were used in the install and are a good and cheap idea but thanks for the clarification :thumbup:

I got into the habit of using zip ties on vacuum fittings (and fuel lines for small engines). I've found that using hose clamps it's easy to over tighten them and split the rubber especially over time. Zip ties it's easy to install, cheap, and work pretty well.

I just did this. For some reason my carbs were so out of sync, one of the bottles started sending oil to one of the carbs (the one connected to the fuel tank T). My question then, is how bad is it that oil went to the carb? The bike runs perfect right now and I have not noticed any issues yet. On a side note, when oil went into the carb I noticed water (slightly oily) dripping off my exhaust, it later cleared though. I'm guessing, the bike simply burned the oil and purged the water out. So is the bike going to be ok?

if the bike is running fine now, you should be okay.

Yeah, you'll be OK so long as you didn't hydrolock it or something. :)

It'll smoke like crazy for a bit, but like was mentioned, you should be fine (if it didn't go too long the plugs should be fine).

One easily overlooked detail is where I pointed out to fill both the bottles only about 1/3 of the way up (2/3 empty if you're a pessimist ;) ). I actually let one of the bottles run empty (so the other bottle will be 2/3 of the way full) and that will aerate the solution (in your case oil). The little bubbles make it easier to see which way the solution is going or if you're in sync and the little bubbles stop. If you fill the bottles 1/2 of the way up or more then when one of the bottles fills up you're going to start pulling solution into the intake.

Thank you guys. The bike is running excellent right now (knock on wood). I also did the idle mixture screw and idle knob adjustments. Turning the mixture screws was a pain since I have Shogun sliders on.

I also went with something different.

http://www.carbtune.com/

Thanks Kerry. I ordered the 2 cylinder version yesterday with the storage pouch! :)

The reason that a lot of top teams do carb "synching" at high RPM on the dyno is to look for vacuum leaks. A very stong motor that isn't pulling a leak at low RPM can cause a high RPM leak that can cause a single cylinder to lean out under extended WOT (high banks of Daytona anyone?). That can lead to a catastrophic failure.

I did the "kleen air system removal" over the weekend and reused the vacated vacuum fitting to hook up one carb sync hose (ala kkim). I then cut and inserted a new "T" in the other carb vacuum line. Warmed up the bike and hooked up the Carbtune. Voila, the carbs were already within spec! I did manage to get them a little closer.

I'm throwing a bit of a curveball here, but if you didn't want to rig the extra tees, where would you hook up the synchronizer rig?

The service manual is virtually worthless.... it still talks about a center stand! :censored:

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_I_synchronize_the_carburetors%3F

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_I_synchronize_the_carburetors%3F
Oops, I should have thought of going there. :D

could this be done with some vacuum gauges?

Yes, but the gauges might need "restricters" in-line, in order to differentiate changes. See the carbtune website:

http://www.carbtune.com/

so how much avg vac do these carbs pull? So I could just get something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3620-Vacuum-Gauge/dp/B000EW0KPY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1288288600&sr=8-1 and use a pressure snubber right? heck, I could probably just use the Y fitting off my defi boost gauge that has a snubber on it already.

Yes that'll work fine. Personally for syncing I prefer vacuum gauges. There are companies that sell 4 gauge units specifically for syncing (although you'd only need to use 2 at any given time). Normally you're looking at the high teens for vacuum, the main thing to look for in vacuum gauges is how accurate they are. No need for a wide sweep when you're mainly focused on getting the cylinders within a fraction of an inch of vacuum from one another :p

http://www.hydroponicsonline.com/store/img-hydroponics/carburetor-synchronizer-carb-sync-gauge-cb-550-650-750_220434242707.jpg

Sounds good. What I can do is hook the 2 new gauges to my car and read see if there's any differences between what my boost/vac gauge reads and these manual ones. Then I'll know if I need to use any correction on either gauge.

Is it possible to do this with the carbs out of the bike? Like, using calipers to measure opening or whatever? Or are the differences too fine to visually see?


And all we are doing is adjusting how far the main butterflies open relative to each other, correct?

I have used a Carb Stix for over 30 years (pro/hobby), the graduations are roughly 0.80in/2cm apart. I'm not saying the Carb Tune doesn't work, it just looks like it wouldn't be as accurate?

EDIT:
http://www.carbtune.co.uk/inst.html
"The manometer must be used vertically for a scale starting at 8cmHg (centimetres of mercury. 1 inch=2.5cm 1cm=0.4inches)"

"The full width scale lines on the gauge are 2cmHg apart and most factories specify the total difference between the lowest and highest readings should be 2cmHg."

So if I'm getting this correctly, the lines roughly represent the same graduation between the Carb Stix and the Morgan...WOW my guage is 22in/55.88cm tall. So the little window on the Carb Tune represents roughly the 22in/55.88cm on the Carb Stix. To make it as accurate as a Carb Stix the Carb Tune would have to be as big as the Ninja itself.

Please correct me if I'm wrong, have I missed something or am I looking at it the wrong way?


http://home.comcast.net/~stykers/carbsync01.jpg http://www.carbtune.co.uk/Images/SSL11411SC.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~stykers/carbsync02.jpg http://www.carbtune.co.uk/Images/wrkconn1.jpg

Reviving an old thread. Is there a particular place to get those 4 way TEEs. I've been to autozone, kragen, Orchard Supply Hardware and ACE hardware. They only had 3 way TEEs and not even in that many sizes. Where have you all been finding it or did you make your own 3 way?

Brian,

I found my 4 way at a local NAPA autoparts store in the section that they have all the vacuum tubing. If you can only find 3 ways, use them and just split it off to make a 4 way splitter.

Also if you've pulled your vapor canister (Cali bikes) then you don't need a 4-way valve. So if push comes to shove you can just yank that.

TJ!!!! :thumbup:

Kelly! :) You didn't expect to see me pop in here so quickly eh?

yep... good to see you slumming for a change. :p

Brian,

I found my 4 way at a local NAPA autoparts store in the section that they have all the vacuum tubing. If you can only find 3 ways, use them and just split it off to make a 4 way splitter.

Yea, just checking to see if there was a place that's sure to have it. I always like to go with less parts if possible.

Also if you've pulled your vapor canister (Cali bikes) then you don't need a 4-way valve. So if push comes to shove you can just yank that.

Vapor canister? I've been reading this forum for 2years and I feel like 80%+ of the bike is still foreign to me, mechanically that is.

http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy304/cuongism/DSC00235.jpg

If you have 3 tubes coming out the left of your gas tank, it's a Cali bike with a vapor emissions doodad. Two of the tubes (2nd and 3rd tube which are marked blue and red) connect to the vapor canister which is inside your left fairing. I just capped off the two tubes and tossed all that junk (picture is of Kevin's bike though). I don't remember a 4way tee though.

For the '08+ the canister looks like this:
http://www.kawiforums.com/gallery/data/500/Headlight_Adjust.JPG?813

Since the question was about the 4-way tee, then you must have a Cali bike (that and I gathered that from the San Jose location you're in Cali :p). If you don't want to fiddle with that right now you can just use two 3-way tees inline though to get the same effect as one 4-way tee like kkim mentioned.

Ohhh that's what that stupid looking box was. I was wondering what that thing does. I was thinking... its not the horn and the airbox is in back... Thanks for the clarification. I'm assuming there is a thread on it's purpose and consequences for removal. Will have to do a quick search and read up some more.

Just wanted to update: Found the 4-way at Napa autoparts. Apparently they had to order it because they dont keep it in-stock very often as well. As for the tubing, I found that the vinyl tubing from OSH was slightly softer and fit much better. The rig worked perfectly and my carbs were only slightly out of sync. The offset screwdriver was godly but I needed to use a much much longer bit to get to it because the shorter ones caused the head of the screwdriver to push on the tubing and changed the rpms.

How much out of sync is considered to have an effect? I'm about to take it out for a spin but it was so close that I didnt need to turn the screw much at all.

So, the guide in the OP is for Cali models, I take it?

I had a question ... seems like i got it but need clarification.

I took out all the emission crap and now i am left with the hose in a "T" , one side connects to vacuum inlet on tank, one side connects to left carb (looking towards the front of bike) and one side is blank. So, i can cap this off and use this end with a hose for one end of the carb sync bottle, Am i correct?

For the right carb (looking towards the front of the bike), i split the hose that goes from the right carb to the left carb (routing like a U) and then insert a "T" connector and use the free end of this "T" to connect the other end of the carb sync bottle.

Ohh - what is the thicker hose sticking out of the middle of the carb? (going nowhere). I guess it would be a overflow hose if carb gets filled or something?

abhijitz - I have the same exact question. Im pretty sure that you are correct. I am going to post a pic of my carb. I have 2 circles of where I think the 2 hoses for the DIY sync tool should go. I hoping to get clarification myself.http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=918&pictureid=7745

Is it possible to do this with the carbs out of the bike? Like, using calipers to measure opening or whatever? Or are the differences too fine to visually see?


And all we are doing is adjusting how far the main butterflies open relative to each other, correct?

Even though this is an older comment, I wanted to address this. You can use a very small feeler gauge to get the carbs somewhat close to synced off of the bike, useful if you're rebuilding the carbs, but the only way to accurately do them is with a vacuum gauge.

abhijitz - I have the same exact question. Im pretty sure that you are correct. I am going to post a pic of my carb. I have 2 circles of where I think the 2 hoses for the DIY sync tool should go. I hoping to get clarification myself.http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=918&pictureid=7745

Those are the correct locations.

I may have to try this set up later this season on the ninja, I found syncing the carbs of my old suzuki, all four of them, to be an awful experience. Just imagine trying to sync one of these hahah
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_gl2p-sKpvZ0/TNSeWmOhp3I/AAAAAAAACcc/6X0rr6PdSQQ/s1600/honda-cbx-1000.jpg

You are going to have fun with that project! lol Hoping mine goes alright. Thanks for the reply

i had a motion pro carb sync pro for awhile. tested out on my 4cy VFR, and it sucks big ones. Sold it cheap and picked up the "Harmonizer" a guy makes and sells these on the ADVrider forum, its amazing. just did the 250r a few days ago and it was precise and quick. For $119 shipped you cant beat it. :thumbup:

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=701625

I have this http://www.carbtune.com/. Works perfectly and doesnt require batteries.

For $119 shipped you cant beat it. :thumbup:

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=701625

Beat it. :p

Two bottle method (http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_I_synchronize_the_carburetors%3F). Less than $10, and you get refreshment from the beverages that you purchased for their bottles. :D

Beat it. :p

Two bottle method (http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_I_synchronize_the_carburetors%3F). Less than $10, and you get refreshment from the beverages that you purchased for their bottles. :D

I tried that. It works but I found it trickier to get perfect. Like the fluid kept bouncing around back and forth. I suppose if you put dampeners on it like the carbtune does, it'd work better.

I've never had that problem. Mine is nice and smooth. Is it possible you had a leak or something? When you get the water levels to stay consistent, the carbs are usually pretty well synced. :idunno: works for me.

Dunno. It worked fine with the Carbtune. It's possible the stoppers werent perfectly sealed I suppose. I did give up pretty quick after a few syncs that took too long.

Quick tip for anyone that want so straighten out the clear hose. Boil it in water for about 5 to 10 minutes and then take it out with a tongs and lay out towels on the kitchen floor. Roll the hose up in the towel to keep it straight while it cools. I bought my hose off a roll and had a hell of a time straightening it until I Googled how to straighten clear hose lol. Hope this helps some people :)

I ended up doing that to some of mine quite by accident actually. I just ran really really hot water through it to try and clean it out, and hung it to let it dry, and it's all straight now :) much more useful this way.

So I just tried this and it was an Epic Fail for me. My carbs seemed to be very out of sync and in a matter of seconds it went from one bottle to the next and craziness happened and ended up sucking a lil in the carb. Boy does vegetable oil stink when it burns. Needles to say, I will be purchasing the Motion Pro Syncpro. Here is the link http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/1/4/65/13078/ITEM/Motion-Pro-Syncpro-Carburetor-Tuner.aspx

So I just tried this and it was an Epic Fail for me. My carbs seemed to be very out of sync and in a matter of seconds it went from one bottle to the next and craziness happened and ended up sucking a lil in the carb. Boy does vegetable oil stink when it burns. Needles to say, I will be purchasing the Motion Pro Syncpro. Here is the link http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/1/4/65/13078/ITEM/Motion-Pro-Syncpro-Carburetor-Tuner.aspx


If you fill the bottles up properly (i.e.: only 1/3 full and checking to make sure the hose to the carb is above 2/3 full) it is impossible for this to happen. It shouldn't have any negative effect on your bike (just incase you were wondering).

Personally I wouldn't waste 100 dollars on it, but some have and they do work great. My two bottle carb sync works pretty well, and cost like 10 bucks.

I only had the bottles 1/3 full. After I adjusted the screw the fluid started bubbling in the bottle and I think thats how the other hose going to the carb sucked some up. I might try it again and see what happens...Do you think perhaps Im turning the screw too fast and its causing the fluid to bubble like crazy? This all happened so fast, i shut the bike off right away but I wasnt quick enough. Am I doing it wrong?

I only had the bottles 1/3 full. After I adjusted the screw the fluid started bubbling in the bottle and I think thats how the other hose going to the carb sucked some up. I might try it again and see what happens...Do you think perhaps Im turning the screw too fast and its causing the fluid to bubble like crazy? This all happened so fast, i shut the bike off right away but I wasnt quick enough. Am I doing it wrong?

That's strange :O

If your carbs are very out of sync, then it doesn't really matter how fast you are turning it because all the liquid will shoot over to one bottle right when you turn your engine on. Then it will only be air being pushed in to the full bottle from the empty one, causing the bubbles.

If you turn the screw the right way, the bubbles should essentially stop on one side while the oil is starting to move back over. Then just gradually slow down until everything has stopped.

I would suggest, if you can still remember which way to turn the screw to move the liquid back into the other bottle (empty one), give it some turns before you turn your bike on to get them back into better alignment so you don't have complete drainage of one bottle.

Personally I eyeballed the butterfly valves when I took my carbs out, and when I did get around to syncing them the first time, there was very little flow and I didn't even think it was working :P If you are really worried about it happening again, I would eyeball it (super easy if you have no more airbox!)

I feel kind've dumb asking but when you say "eye ball" do you mean look at the butterflys and see when they are close to being all the way closed? First time doing this so Im kind've green.:(

I feel kind've dumb asking but when you say "eye ball" do you mean look at the butterflys and see when they are close to being all the way closed? First time doing this so Im kind've green.:(


Yeah, you can move them with the actual throttle on the bars/throttle on the carb, and then adjust the screw so that they *Look* like they are closing and opening at exactly the same speed. You will know what I mean when you try it.

Has anybody used this gauge? It was my first crack at syncing and I wanna make sure it looks alright.

http://youtu.be/gYfQk7_QEns

Yay old thread revival!

Would this DIY sync tool also work for a throttle body sync?

Thank you for this Thread! :thumbup:

I wanted to do a DIY carb sync but didn't have any bottles/containers laying around that I thought would be good for this. So instead I bought 2 cheap vacuum gauges off ebay, attached a hose to each, attached each one to one side of the carb and presto, Carb sync tool for $15, 5 for each gauge, 5 for a big roll of tubing.

Only thing is the tube is to big and needles doesn't stabilize so you need to choke the tube a bit with pliers, vise grips work well, I had hemostats that worked as well and the needle will stabilize quite nicely.

So another option that isn't quite as expensive as a $40-$50 sync tool