Just thought some of you might be interested on how to lift the bike on to stands to make it easier to service or wash.

Bike ready to lifted...

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I put a block of 2x4 under the sidestand to bring the bike closer to vertical...

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I have spools (10mm) already on the bike and use a combination stand which allows me to either raise the rear using spools or the flat underside of the swingarm. Here I position the spool into the "fork" of the stand.

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After positioning the spools on both sides of the swinggarm in line with the forks, use one smooth motion to lift the back end of the bike up onto the stand.

13948 13949

For the front, I have this contraption. :)

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You need to insert a pin into the steering head stem. Stand comes with a variety of pins so you can select the one that fits your bike.

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Pin inserted and front ready to be lifted. The back should be on a stand before the front is lifted to prevent the bike from rolling backwards.

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Push down on the front stand handle and the front end raises up and locks.

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Front and rear of bike up on stands ready to be worked on. Makes life a lot easier for anything from lubing the chain to changing tires to even something as simple as washing the bike. :)

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Nice post Kelly! I love the look of a bike up on stands, especially with its wheels off. Looks like one of those forest speeders from the 3rd star wars flick. :)

http://www.ciurczak.com/photos/379686558_DvEZA-L.jpg

One safety tip if you have more than one bike using the stands is to make sure that you've properly adjusted the width of the rear stand, and tightened it down enough so it doesn't adjust on its own. Had issues getting my bike up onto the stand once and I couldn't figure out why until I realized that I had forgotten to readjust it. :hitself:

Alex - I love the assortment of motorcycle equipment in the background, right next to the car seat! :D

Thx! Now if I could only find a motorcycle baby seat...:cool:

One safety tip if you have more than one bike using the stands is to make sure that you've properly adjusted the width of the rear stand, and tightened it down enough so it doesn't adjust on its own. Had issues getting my bike up onto the stand once and I couldn't figure out why until I realized that I had forgotten to readjust it. :hitself: Agreed. I also use my rear stand for different bikes and I have marked, with different colored paint, the adjustment widths for each of them on the rear stand adjustable arm. No guess work when switching the stand from one bike to another. :)

I have to admit that putting the bike on it's rear stand single-handedly caused a few terrifying moments at first. If you don't keep it perfectly upright when the weight gets transferred to the stand it wants to fall over and can cause outright panic until you get the hang of it. The 2x4 under the kickstand is a must!

I've never used a 2x4, and haven't had too much of an issue. I leave the bike leaned all the way over on its kickstand, and position the rear stand underneath the left spool. I start to push the bike toward vertical, and as I do I'm looking over the rear of the bike to make sure that the right spool is coming down into the rear stand holder. I'm pushing it slowly, so if it's not perfectly aligned, I can always lower the bike right back down on its kickstand. But once I see the spool on the right sitting in its carrier, I can let go of the bike and push the rear stand down and the bike's safely on the stand.

I've never used a 2x4, and haven't had too much of an issue. I leave the bike leaned all the way over on its kickstand, and position the rear stand underneath the left spool. I start to push the bike toward vertical, and as I do I'm looking over the rear of the bike to make sure that the right spool is coming down into the rear stand holder. I'm pushing it slowly, so if it's not perfectly aligned, I can always lower the bike right back down on its kickstand. But once I see the spool on the right sitting in its carrier, I can let go of the bike and push the rear stand down and the bike's safely on the stand.

yep... and that takes a bit of practice, but once you get it down, it is doable w/o the 2x4.

I'm such a noob that I always use the 2x4.

You gotta admit though, when you do it alone with nobody steadying the bike there's one moment there when the stand hasn't quite taken all the weight just yet and any lean could lead to catastrophe. I've learned to push the stand down under the back wheel with my left foot while steadying the bike with both hands. Looks pretty stupid, but less chance of a sudden gust of wind blowing the bike over! :rolleyes:

Got myself a rear stand a couple weeks ago. Still need to get some spools so I can use it!

Want to get myself a front triple tree stand as well soon...

You gotta admit though, when you do it alone with nobody steadying the bike there's one moment there when the stand hasn't quite taken all the weight just yet and any lean could lead to catastrophe. I've learned to push the stand down under the back wheel with my left foot while steadying the bike with both hands. Looks pretty stupid, but less chance of a sudden gust of wind blowing the bike over! :rolleyes:
I find having the rear seat on there with the strap to grab onto with my left hand is a lot more reassuring than lifting with the cowl on.

Excellent suggestion. I think I still have the passenger seat lying around here somewhere...

Hi guys, hope this is not off topic. but if you have lowered your bike you might want to check for clearance with the pipe and spools. I have a slip on Yoshi. it could hit ( even with the stock hanger) if you go over a good sized bump. I just pull my spools off when done to be safe.

Just stuff you might not think about until you say "oh crap, what was the noise?":(

Total noob here but:

Do these bikes come with spools or so we have to purchase them?

Are there stands that just fit on the swingarm?

What brand stands do you guys use?

HELPPPPPPPPPP

Total noob here but:

Do these bikes come with spools or so we have to purchase them?

Are there stands that just fit on the swingarm?

What brand stands do you guys use?

HELPPPPPPPPPP

Deb,

You need to purchase the spools. they are 10mm, when you go looking for them. I recommend you purchase a rear stand that lifts by using spools as I find it a bit more secure than those that lift by the underside of the swingarm. I have a rear stand that will lift by either method, but I always lift by spools.

Pitbull stands are the standard by which all other stands are measured. They are pricey, but very sturdy. There are other brands out there and I'm sure others will recommend a few to you.

EDIT: :whathesaid:

The 2008+ ninjette doesn't come with spools, but the good news is it comes with spool bosses. Those are just open screwholes in the swingarm that make it easy to just screw spools into them. The prior generation ninjette didn't have those.

You can buy spools just about anywhere, the ninjette uses standard 10 mm spools, which is one of the most common sizes. To install them you just put a dab of loctite on them and screw them right in. Pricing is probably $10 on the low end and $30 at the highest end.

There are plenty of different bike stands out there, but the market leader is probably the pit bull folks:

http://www.pit-bull.com/

Not the cheapest, but they are built well and will last for decades. Most folks buy the stand that can be used with or without spools just by flipping the mount on the stand. Using spools is a much more secure way to hold the bike though, so if that's an option it's probably the way to go.

Thanks Alex and Kelly. :thumbup:

I would like to put on some rim tape this winter. It would be much easier with the bike on stands.

Are you looking to purchase a front stand, too?

hmmmmmmmm..........I think I would just like a rear stand for now (unless I find a good package deal).

I guess it makes sense to have both. Maybe I'll put them on my Christmas list and see what Santa brings me. I've been a a very good girl this year. :p

I've been a a very good girl this year. :plol... prove it! :D

:worthlesswithoutpic

lol... prove it! :D

:worthlesswithoutpic

What a shameless dirty old man you are Kelly.

Hurry up with the pictures Deb :D

Wow you guys are shameless!!!:thumbup::D

What a shameless dirty old man you are Kelly.

Hurry up with the pictures Deb :D

damn... go away, son... you bother me.
http://images-cdn01.associatedcontent.com/image/A7558/75581/300_75581.jpg


.. find your own sweet young thing.
:leghump:

http://www.smugmug.com/photos/382514429_UkgtF-M.png

:happy130:

http://www.smugmug.com/photos/382514429_UkgtF-M.png

:happy130:

guy at the computer makes a lot of sense to me. :D

I dropped my bike the other day putting it on the rear stand... Luckily there's boxes and crap that it fell on. No scratches...

Still sucks though. First time for everything I guess?

I dropped my bike the other day putting it on the rear stand... Luckily there's boxes and crap that it fell on. No scratches...

Still sucks though. First time for everything I guess?

yikes, how did that happen? :confused:

Just got home from a ride. Wasn't paying attention. Right spool wasn't lined up.

:mad::o:(:(:o:mad:

Even with a red brick under my kickstand (almost vertical), it's very difficult to get both forks of my crappy Harbor Freight "Haul Master" low-profile stand lined up with the spools. I usually end up holding the bike vertical with one hand (dangerous) or I kinda have to tilt my stand and then wedge it under with one side first to ensure that it falls onto the other side properly. That means all the weight of the bike on ONE side of a *cheap* stand for a few critical moments. My coworker commented to say that it was a "nice, sturdy, stand," so I showed him the malformed screw that had metal in the head so you couldn't insert a screwdriver. :D

I kinda have to tilt my stand and then wedge it under with one side first to ensure that it falls onto the other side properly. That means all the weight of the bike on ONE side of a *cheap* stand for a few critical moments.


There's no need to tilt the stand... just make sure the right-side cradle is lined up so that it catches the spool as the bike goes vertical, and go slow until both sides are in the cradles.

I put my left hand on the bike while I move the stand into position and start to push the handle down. This is so that if something starts to go wrong I can pull the bike back to the left and it'll drop back onto the kickstand.

The right hand, meanwhile, maneuvers the stand to make sure the right side spool drops into the cradle properly. Once both spools are in there I let go with the left hand, shove the handle down and up she goes.


T-Rex stands, BTW.
Not expensive ($109 for both front and rear stands), good quality, made in the US, no worries about cheap-a$$ tools.

http://t-rex-racing.com/catalog.php?item=11

Note how much bigger the cradles are than the HF ones...makes lining it up easy.

http://t-rex-racing.com/imgs/large/blafr.jpg

There's no need to tilt the stand... just make sure the right-side cradle is lined up so that it catches the spool as the bike goes vertical, and go slow until both sides are in the cradles.

I put my left hand on the bike while I move the stand into position and start to push the handle down. This is so that if something starts to go wrong I can pull the bike back to the left and it'll drop back onto the kickstand.

The right hand, meanwhile, maneuvers the stand to make sure the right side spool drops into the cradle properly. Once both spools are in there I let go with the left hand, shove the handle down and up she goes.


T-Rex stands, BTW.
Not expensive ($109 for both front and rear stands), good quality, made in the US, no worries about cheap-a$$ tools.

http://t-rex-racing.com/catalog.php?item=11

Note how much bigger the cradles are than the HF ones...makes lining it up easy.

http://t-rex-racing.com/imgs/large/blafr.jpg

Yeah, that's what I'm saying though... the Harbor Freight ones are so narrow that you DO have to tilt it. You see, when you lign up the left side, either both forks on the right are in front of or behind the spool. The only way to "make sure" it's lined up is to readjust as you lift (difficult) or tilt the stand. :(

Also, T-Rex *IS* expensive compared to $32x2. ;) That said, they seem to have the cheapest triple-tree head stand on eBay (unless that was Black Widow... I don't recall). Anyone try T-Rex head stand with an EX250J bike? Last time I googled I couldn't get confirmation.

Also, T-Rex *IS* expensive compared to $32x2. ;)

It's just a matter of priorities. If you're comfortable, that's cool. But you're worried enough about it to post....

Cost of two cheap HF stands: $64
Cost of two good stands: $109
Cost of dropping the bike and cracking the fairing: $275+

Peace of mind: Priceless.....

Yeah, that's what I'm saying though... the Harbor Freight ones are so narrow that you DO have to tilt it. You see, when you lign up the left side, either both forks on the right are in front of or behind the spool. The only way to "make sure" it's lined up is to readjust as you lift (difficult) or tilt the stand. :(

Also, T-Rex *IS* expensive compared to $32x2. ;) That said, they seem to have the cheapest triple-tree head stand on eBay (unless that was Black Widow... I don't recall). Anyone try T-Rex head stand with an EX250J bike? Last time I googled I couldn't get confirmation.


You don't have to tilt anything. Hold the bike straight up with your left hand, put the stand to the spools with your right hand and then push it down. Something that may help you get used to balancing the bike with your left hand... remove the rear seat first and you can get a more secure grip on the bike by grabbing the metal piece that the seat slides into Go try it :thumbup:

You don't have to tilt anything. Hold the bike straight up with your left hand, put the stand to the spools with your right hand and then push it down. Something that may help you get used to balancing the bike with your left hand... remove the rear seat first and you can get a more secure grip on the bike by grabbing the metal piece that the seat slides into Go try it :thumbup:

Once you get the forks on the left spool the forks on the right are already either BOTH in front of or both behind the other spool, meaning that there's no way to lower the spool onto the other side unless you lign it up before you evenstart lifting. Perhaps if I didn't put the kickstand up on a brick first... :D

Alex - I love the assortment of motorcycle equipment in the background, right next to the car seat! :D

hmmm.. alex, how would you MOD that child car seat onto the back of your 250R? :D

PICS!!! PICS!!! alex :p

Wouldn't this work better for us that are lifting the bikes alone? http://www.pit-bull.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PBMSA&Product_Code=F0043-000&Category_Code=forward_handle_rear_stands

But how come everyone is using the conventional styled stands?

Just as dangerous as a regular race stand.

The part where he has to hold the bike for a second before the stand is under the spools properly is the "scary part"

I just grab the rear seat strap and stick my stand under the spools and lift. Nothing to it if one arm is attached to the bike. If it does start to fall, yank it back onto the kickstand.

To add to this..

My front fork stand as shown above hits the front fairing on the bottom some. (just under/behind the headlights)
I think if I put a few washers on the fork pin that lifts the bottom fork clamp up that it might clear the fairing better or not hit at all.

Any suggestions lowering the bike back down from the stands? If anything, lowering the bike back down is more dangerous than lifting since you start of with an upright bike and no support (at least raising it, you have the bike supported where it is leaned - kickstand as it is leaned in that direction).

just prior to lowering the bike after you're down with your work, turn the handlebars fully to the left and be sure the kickstand is down. When you lower the bike from the stand, it will drop to the left onto the kickstand.

I keep my left hand on the tail section as insurance as it drops and use my right to lower the stand.

I put the kickstand down and stand next to the bike, left hand on left grip and right hand on the tail. Then I "nudge" the stand handle up with my toe while pulling the bike towards me and a little forward. It rolls off the stand fairly easily and settles on the kickstand nicely. With both hands holding on there isn't much chance the bike will go the wrong way. The lightness of this bike really pays off when you have to work on it or push it in and out of a shed. :)

just prior to lowering the bike after you're down with your work, turn the handlebars fully to the left and be sure the kickstand is down. When you lower the bike from the stand, it will drop to the left onto the kickstand.

I keep my left hand on the tail section as insurance as it drops and use my right to lower the stand.

Thanks. Do you stand behind the bike when lifting and lowering it? I would imagine standing on the right-side (brake side) of the bike would be a good idea for support on the right as you already have support on the left (kick-stand).

I put the kickstand down and stand next to the bike, left hand on left grip and right hand on the tail. Then I "nudge" the stand handle up with my toe while pulling the bike towards me and a little forward. It rolls off the stand fairly easily and settles on the kickstand nicely. With both hands holding on there isn't much chance the bike will go the wrong way. The lightness of this bike really pays off when you have to work on it or push it in and out of a shed. :)

Hmmm. That might work. I'll have to try and see if I can reach all those points with my limbs - I'm a short guy (5"4').

Thanks. Do you stand behind the bike when lifting and lowering it? I would imagine standing on the right-side (brake side) of the bike would be a good idea for support on the right as you already have support on the left (kick-stand).

If you're short just block the wheels on the stands and push the bike off holding the handlebars, with a finger on the brake lever. It doesn't take much effort.
Don't expect the kickstand to stop the bike from going over by itself. It will just pivot on the stand and still go over and the damage will just be higher on the left side. That's why I do everything from the left side where I feel comfortable. The stand is a little added insurance if you do it from the right side, but I think the awkwardness of working from the "wrong" side of the bike is the bigger risk.

If you're short just block the wheels on the stands

What do you mean by block the wheels on the stand? Oh and good point on the more damage on the left. :thumbup:

Make sure the kickstand is all the way forward, make sure again just in case, then just pop up the stand with right hand while holding tail section with left hand, and it will gently fall to the left onto the kickstand.

What do you mean by block the wheels on the stand? Oh and good point on the more damage on the left. :thumbup:

Chock the wheels of the stand with a small pieces of wood or rocks so they don't roll when you're pushing the bike off the stand. That way you don't have to worry about having 3 hands and you can concentrate on keeping the bike upright.

Chock the wheels of the stand with a small pieces of wood or rocks so they don't roll when you're pushing the bike off the stand. That way you don't have to worry about having 3 hands and you can concentrate on keeping the bike upright.

Ah I getcha. If I don't block the stand wheels, they'd just roll with the bike when I pull it forward from the handle bars. :thumbup:

I have a little experience in this area.... about a million times :)

Best technique I have found when putting the bike on the stand and taking it off.... is to gently lean the tail of the bike on your left hip as you do the business at the rear of the bike. I don't have side stands on the race bikes, so this technique works really well. It allows you to rest the bike against your hip while you set the stand away from the bike, or grab it and put it into position.

I have a little experience in this area.... about a million times :)

Best technique I have found when putting the bike on the stand and taking it off.... is to gently lean the tail of the bike on your left hip as you do the business at the rear of the bike. I don't have side stands on the race bikes, so this technique works really well. It allows you to rest the bike against your hip while you set the stand away from the bike, or grab it and put it into position.

Richard, I'm trying to picture this. So basically you have your left hip on the tail by the clutch side of the bike and you are facing outward behind the bike. You then adjust the stands to their spools with your right hand then use your right foot to step on the bike stand handle. That sound right?

Wouldn't this work better for us that are lifting the bikes alone? http://www.pit-bull.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PBMSA&Product_Code=F0043-000&Category_Code=forward_handle_rear_stands

But how come everyone is using the conventional styled stands?

I have one of these and with the added weight of my 6r i find it is so much easier standing beside the bike instead of behind it. :thumbup:

Anyone try T-Rex head stand with an EX250J bike? Last time I googled I couldn't get confirmation.

Me me meeeeeee!

I have a set as you pictured, but in silver.

I use my T-Rex stands on all my bikes (even my moped,) the only downside is the fork/triple front stand only includes one pin of your requested size. You choose what size you want, and they ship the stand with it. If you want a variety, I think they charge something like $10 each additional + shipping.

I got a 2006 GSXR pin (most common size works with all my other bikes)... but, coincidentally when inserting the pin into the stand BACKWARDS it is the right size for the EX250J! :p

Great stands though, I love them!

Also, if you want swingarm spools... Harbor Freight has nice 10mm aluminum ones for $5.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=66926
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/66900-66999/66926.gif

Don't bother with their stand though... junk! LOL. :D

T-Rex stands, BTW.
Not expensive ($109 for both front and rear stands), good quality, made in the US, no worries about cheap-a$$ tools.

http://t-rex-racing.com/catalog.php?item=11

Note how much bigger the cradles are than the HF ones...makes lining it up easy.

http://t-rex-racing.com/imgs/large/blafr.jpg

Just placed an order of T-rex front and rear stands. $109 for both plus $25 for Shipping and handling for a total of $134 but they throw in free spools (only until 1/31/10). Should be here thursday. My landlord let me bring my bike into the back room of the house so now i can actually make use of this miserable new york weather. I'll take some pics of the stands and I'll let you guys know if I had any trouble getting the bike on the stands

so now i can actually make use of this miserable new york weather.

Ha! I'm in Florida and we're looking at snow on Thursday! LOL! :D

Me me meeeeeee!

I have a set as you pictured, but in silver.

I use my T-Rex stands on all my bikes (even my moped,) the only downside is the fork/triple front stand only includes one pin of your requested size. You choose what size you want, and they ship the stand with it. If you want a variety, I think they charge something like $10 each additional + shipping.

I got a 2006 GSXR pin (most common size works with all my other bikes)... but, coincidentally when inserting the pin into the stand BACKWARDS it is the right size for the EX250J! :p

Great stands though, I love them!

Thanks! Now I'm torn between picking the same pins as you because I know it can be made to work vs. finding and picking the right size one.

Forgot to post this when I got my stands, I had to file the spools that came with the t-rex stands. I'll post the pictures later but it was kind of frustrating. I think Someone else had the same issue with the t-rex spools.
Posted via Mobile Device

Look ma, no wheels!

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b123/wtfduck/photos/motorcycle/ninja250/DSCN0582.jpg

Look ma, no wheels!

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b123/wtfduck/photos/motorcycle/ninja250/DSCN0582.jpg

Nice. What are you planning on doing to the bike? Powdercoating the wheels?

After going through everyone's helpful suggestions here on how to lift the bike, I have come up with the following, which works best for me.

1) Remove the passenger seat/cowl.
2) Set up the bike on its side-stand on top of a 2x4 like Kelly suggested.
3) Stand to the brake side of the bike (exhaust-side) and use your hip as Richard suggested to brace the bike.
4) Take your rear stand and fit it to the spools.
5) Lift the bike with one hand by grabbing on the bar above the taillight while simultaneously pushing down on the rear stand.

Hey all, So I've been using the paddles on my rear stand to lift the bike...but over the winter I bought a front stand, and shogun rear spools.

The rear spool bolts, seem 1 size too big, the holes on the bike are 10mm right? I tried another 10mm bolt, and found an 8mm (knew it was gonna be too small)..I thought maybe the start of the hole was a little warped, but i don't want to force it, and it really seems too big. 9mm bolts don't seem to exist locally.

I also picked up a pit bull front stand, with a #1 pin as their guide stated. When lifting, the front fairing rests on the stand before it'll lift the bike, more than I thought was safe, so I backed off and gave up after a while. This sounds like I have the wrong pin, but I double checked the guide and it looked right. It was still in the dead of winter when I was trying this, and I hate the cold, so I just set it aside for the rest of the winter. :) I'll call them if I must, but any ideas?

Hey all, So I've been using the paddles on my rear stand to lift the bike...but over the winter I bought a front stand, and shogun rear spools.

The rear spool bolts, seem 1 size too big, the holes on the bike are 10mm right? I tried another 10mm bolt, and found an 8mm (knew it was gonna be too small)..I thought maybe the start of the hole was a little warped, but i don't want to force it, and it really seems too big. 9mm bolts don't seem to exist locally.

I also picked up a pit bull front stand, with a #1 pin as their guide stated. When lifting, the front fairing rests on the stand before it'll lift the bike, more than I thought was safe, so I backed off and gave up after a while. This sounds like I have the wrong pin, but I doubt checked the guide and it looked right. It was still in the dead of winter when I was trying this, and I hate the cold, so I just set it aside for the rest of the winter. :) I'll call them if I must, but any ideas?

The spool threads are definately 10mm, they are a bit snug though... I will admit that. Make sure the threads are absolutely clean, and if you have any doubts in the thread quality, chase it with an appropriate-sized tap.

It was smart not to let the bike rest on the fairings. On the front stand pull the pin out, and slip it into the underside of the steering stem on your bike. It should be a rather close fit and shouldn't wobble much at all, but it should slip in and out without any force either. If its loose or really tight, you have the wrong-sized pin.

As far as what # pin you need, I believe that varies across manufacturers.

Thanks for the reply Duck...I ended up using a tap, and cut out a bunch of metal. Kawi's taps must have been worn out that day. Spools are in. :)

I'm going to be lazy about getting the front stand setup though...probably until fall comes around. :)

Thanks for the reply Duck...I ended up using a tap, and cut out a bunch of metal. Kawi's taps must have been worn out that day. Spools are in. :)

I'm going to be lazy about getting the front stand setup though...probably until fall comes around. :)

Awesome! I wonder if anyone else has had this problem with the holes/threads being unusually tight....

Yup, it's not the first time I've heard of it here...

Yup, it's not the first time I've heard of it here...

My SV650 holes were the opposite, they looked bigger than they were, and an 8mm bolt didn't grab ine one of the holes when threading in, and 10mm was too big, too. I think someone mangled the holes in it... the bike is rebuilt salvage from a trailer park. I drilled the holes out and re-tapped them for 10mm and put the same spools on as my 250.

I've only used my stand (s) on the rear wheel so far but as soon as it came out of the box I realized that stands that lift the front by the fork legs....doesn't look like they be much help removing the front wheel...or doing any work on the forks... maybe I'm missing something ? Or did i just buy the wrong stands?

I've learned that you should never get over confident when lifting the bike, just like with riding it. I usually put the sidestand on a block of wood to get it almost upright before I lift it, but the last time I thought I would be slick, and when I started picking it up the right spool was not lined up the the hook on the stand and I almost put the bike on its side. So guys/gals don't get cocky with the rear stand.

I've only used my stand (s) on the rear wheel so far but as soon as it came out of the box I realized that stands that lift the front by the fork legs....doesn't look like they be much help removing the front wheel...or doing any work on the forks... maybe I'm missing something ? Or did i just buy the wrong stands?

Post pics and lets see.

Looks just like the t-rex stands earlier in the thread

i was so excited that i was able to put the bike up, and take it off the rear stand by myself...until i turned the front wheel straight to put on rimstripes...and forgot to turn it before i put the bike down.....ooops...my first thought as it hit the ground...yeah, i'm just awesome like that :lol:

What size pin for lifting by the head/triple tree? I need to specify! Not all stands have an assortment. :)

:bump2:

Useful thread.

Yes. Very useful thread. I'm wondering if anyone else has had experience with the Haul-Masters...I love the price! :p

Yes. Very useful thread. I'm wondering if anyone else has had experience with the Haul-Masters...I love the price! :p

The low-profile aluminum one works well with 10mm spools but not with the optional paddle adapters. It can only lift the rear tire with paddles if lifted from the very tip unless you flip them upside-down, which is pretty precarious (does not cradle the swingarm). Too bad Cycle Gear will try to charge you $25-35 for some 10mm spools. You can just use 10mm bolts from Ace Hardware if you just want to lift it. You might be able to find some cheap chrome spools at Harbor Freight, but they went on clearance a long time ago and you'd be pretty lucky.

The larger tubular swingarm stand that they sell with paddles works well except that there is no good place to put the paddles on a current-gen (paddles can block axle removal, spool mounts interfere with placing the paddles further back, stock muffler interferes with placing them even further back, etc. It *can* work easy enough, but the spools are a lot less frustrating. You might be able to find the front fork adapter to justify this but they went on clearance a long time ago and you'd be similarly lucky to find them.

The low-profile aluminum one works well with 10mm spools but not with the optional paddle adapters. It can only lift the rear tire with paddles if lifted from the very tip unless you flip them upside-down, which is pretty precarious (does not cradle the swingarm). Too bad Cycle Gear will try to charge you $25-35 for some 10mm spools. You can just use 10mm bolts from Ace Hardware if you just want to lift it. You might be able to find some cheap chrome spools at Harbor Freight, but they went on clearance a long time ago and you'd be pretty lucky.

The larger tubular swingarm stand that they sell with paddles works well except that there is no good place to put the paddles on a current-gen (paddles can block axle removal, spool mounts interfere with placing the paddles further back, stock muffler interferes with placing them even further back, etc. It *can* work easy enough, but the spools are a lot less frustrating. You might be able to find the front fork adapter to justify this but they went on clearance a long time ago and you'd be similarly lucky to find them.

Excellent info. Thanks! I bot the Aluminum Haul Master tonight. Found that it didn't have the spool adapters with it at all! I'm going to have to return it to get a box that includes that.

Great idea on the bolts. Much less expensive. I already bought spools. I'm thinking that I may want to leave it on the stand all the time. Spools permanently on the bike would make it far easier to do that...

Excellent info. Thanks! I bot the Aluminum Haul Master tonight. Found that it didn't have the spool adapters with it at all! I'm going to have to return it to get a box that includes that.

Great idea on the bolts. Much less expensive. I already bought spools. I'm thinking that I may want to leave it on the stand all the time. Spools permanently on the bike would make it far easier to do that...

So the stand didn't include anything to hold the bike? The low-profile aluminum one is supposed to include those little forks that interface with the spools. Yeah, definitely make sure to get one that includes that. I have one new in the box that I haven't opened so I need to make sure it has them as well.

Yes, you may want to. There was a box opened on in the store and it had the forks. So I just assumed that the unopened box would as well. Oops. I'll take it back tomorrow.

this works great. lifts up bike from frame holes using a dual pin adapter plate.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x193/vulcan9611/Mobile%20Uploads/8687E863-7159-4CB6-932F-88B3A7F569B4_zps8muk712w.jpg (http://s184.photobucket.com/user/vulcan9611/media/Mobile%20Uploads/8687E863-7159-4CB6-932F-88B3A7F569B4_zps8muk712w.jpg.html)http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x193/vulcan9611/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20180408_135213_zps9jw85njl.jpg (http://s184.photobucket.com/user/vulcan9611/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20180408_135213_zps9jw85njl.jpg.html)

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=310412

Thanks Mike. SV Racing Parts for the Win Image with both your Front End and Rear Wheel off of your Ninja at the same time. What a great photo of the SVRP Black Custom Side Lift Stand.

They are close to sold out but I do have several left here in stock now,

Enjoy the ride, and Very best regards to All,
Blair

members, tell what stand can do this?

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x193/vulcan9611/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20180408_135033_zpsfevh3ya6.jpg (http://s184.photobucket.com/user/vulcan9611/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20180408_135033_zpsfevh3ya6.jpg.html)
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x193/vulcan9611/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20180408_134924_zpspfdxwavk.jpg (http://s184.photobucket.com/user/vulcan9611/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20180408_134924_zpspfdxwavk.jpg.html)

oh, i forgot with 1 pump. nice. blairs stand are the cadillacs of race/bike stands

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x193/vulcan9611/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20180408_135148_zpsempu6fs9.jpg (http://s184.photobucket.com/user/vulcan9611/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20180408_135148_zpsempu6fs9.jpg.html)

Very nice... Very nice... Chief!

Very nice... Very nice... Chief!thanx for the sag tip on the rear shock:bow:

kkim's brick technique helped me out today :) It was my first time using a rear stand by myself. I've owned the stand for a while and had put off using it because of how sketchy it felt as soon as I started to put force on the handle to lift the bike up. It makes a huge difference if you just get the bike standing almost vertical before you start. You can get both of the little spindle holders in place and there is almost no side to side motion of the bike as you lever it up.

blairs sv stand. a engineering marvel
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x193/vulcan9611/Mobile%20Uploads/708C8549-4C46-4EBA-A7B8-6AA3A024291F_zpshio1pw6z.jpg (http://s184.photobucket.com/user/vulcan9611/media/Mobile%20Uploads/708C8549-4C46-4EBA-A7B8-6AA3A024291F_zpshio1pw6z.jpg.html)
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x193/vulcan9611/Mobile%20Uploads/6F52F5B2-C2D9-4509-A9F9-60757AB605F1_zpsdxrhjnil.jpg (http://s184.photobucket.com/user/vulcan9611/media/Mobile%20Uploads/6F52F5B2-C2D9-4509-A9F9-60757AB605F1_zpsdxrhjnil.jpg.html)

kkim's brick technique helped me out today :) It was my first time using a rear stand by myself. I've owned the stand for a while and had put off using it because of how sketchy it felt as soon as I started to put force on the handle to lift the bike up. It makes a huge difference if you just get the bike standing almost vertical before you start. You can get both of the little spindle holders in place and there is almost no side to side motion of the bike as you lever it up.

It does get easier with experience. What you'll find is that once you've got both spools in the cradles and with just a little force on the stand handle, the bike is very stable. As long as you don't let go of the stand handle, it's not going anywhere and you're free to get into a position where you can push down hard and lift the bike.

Before I had my Ninjette all my bikes had center stands so I never needed a paddock stand. Finally got one with the 250 and it was nerve-wracking... and I dropped the bike more than once. I used the block-under-the-kickstand trick for quite a while.

But now that I'm track riding, I lift bikes all the time... multiple times per day... and it's become second nature to do it with one hand on the tail and the other on the stand. Learned more or less from necessity, because I was always misplacing the darned block.

Sequence is:
- Stand next to the tail of the bike facing it, paddock stand in right hand.

- Position the left hook of the paddock stand on the left spool.

- Support bike with your left hip, left hand on the tail, and start to lift as you maneuver the right arm of the stand into place. The stand will want to rotate as the bike is lifted, so account for this. Fiddle around until you've got everything lined up. This is something you'll get the hang of. Left hip is supporting the bike, Left hand is still on the tail to pull it back if it starts to get away from you. Right hand maneuvers the stand as necessary to engage both hooks. You're facing more or less to the rear at this point.

- Once both hooks are definitely on the spools, put a little weight on the stand handle. You can now remove your left hand and stop supporting the bike with your hip.

- Shove down on the paddock stand handle hard. Done.

Coming down off the paddock stand, just make sure the handlebars are turned to the left and the kickstand is down. The bike will naturally fall to the left and land on the kickstand.

It does get easier with experience. What you'll find is that once you've got both spools in the cradles and with just a little force on the stand handle, the bike is very stable. As long as you don't let go of the stand handle, it's not going anywhere and you're free to get into a position where you can push down hard and lift the bike.

Before I had my Ninjette all my bikes had center stands so I never needed a paddock stand. Finally got one with the 250 and it was nerve-wracking... and I dropped the bike more than once. I used the block-under-the-kickstand trick for quite a while.

But now that I'm track riding, I lift bikes all the time... multiple times per day... and it's become second nature to do it with one hand on the tail and the other on the stand. Learned more or less from necessity, because I was always misplacing the darned block.

Sequence is:

...

Coming down off the paddock stand, just make sure the handlebars are turned to the left and the kickstand is down. The bike will naturally fall to the left and land on the kickstand.

Thanks a lot for the tips.

While you're here: one of the main reasons I bought he paddock stand was to remove pressure from the left side of the tyres when the bike is standing unused for a long time over winter. I heard that if you don't use a bike for along period, you can also get mechanical issues. Would it be sufficient to periodically start the bike on the stand and pop it into first gear and leave it running for a bit?

Thanks a lot for the tips.

While you're here: one of the main reasons I bought he paddock stand was to remove pressure from the left side of the tyres when the bike is standing unused for a long time over winter. I heard that if you don't use a bike for along period, you can also get mechanical issues. Would it be sufficient to periodically start the bike on the stand and pop it into first gear and leave it running for a bit?

There is truth to putting the bike on stands to prevent tire issues. When I bought my track use r6 it had been sitting in a garage on the side stand for 3yrs. The tires had about 5lbs of pressure in each. Between sitting, leaning, low pressure, temp changes and gravity the tires had a very nice "flat spot" in each. While riding on those tires, I felt mild "chatter." Getting the weight of the bike off the tires will prevent this. But it is also related to your question about running the bike every so often.

Run it every now and then? Nah... don't do that. If you know you are not going to be riding your bike for a long time, do a proper long term storage prep of your bike and leave it that way. Riders get mechanical issues mostly due to improper storage and weather exposure. Also, running the bike in gear on the stands isn't really all that safe. It happens, but even at the track where a 100 bikes are running on stands, its rare to see one in gear on the stands.

I have a forward handle rear stand (Pitbull), and it's quite easy to get the bike up on it.

1) I slide the stand under the bike and roughly line it up while the bike is on its kickstand.
2) I stand the bike up and fold up the kickstand (it blocks the stand handle if it's extended).
3) Holding the left handle bar with my left hand, I position the rear stand on the spools with my right hand and push the handle down, picking the bike up onto the stand.

Took me a few rounds of practice to get the feel of where the right side spool is (you can't see it unless you're really tall), but now it's fast. It's obvious with just a little pressure on the handle if you found the spool or not.

Forward handle stand is much more compact when holding a bike than a regular one, and it feels better to me when lifting and dropping a bike by myself.

https://www.pit-bull.com/dual-swingarm-rear-stands/spooled-forward-handle-rear-motorcycle-stand-f0043-000

What csmith12 said.

The thing about periodic starts during off-season storage is that the bike has to get good and warm to cook off any moisture that's formed due to condensation.

Put stabilizer in with your end-of-season fillup and run long enough to get it through the system (e.g. ride home from the gas station), do chain maintenance while it's still warm (so you won't forget), clean up the bike, put it on stands, plug in the battery tender and walk away. I guarantee it'll fire right up the following spring and be ready to rock.

Thanks csmith12 and adouglas :)

Wait a sec... you only have a rear stand?

Get a front one, too, for storage. Ideally a hybrid so you can lift either by the fork tubes or the steering tube. The former is easier, the latter is great for getting the weight off the forks for service and such.

NEVER EVER lift the front first. Rear stand, then front.

Here in the US Pit-Bull is the preferred brand. Bulletproof, designed and built by ex-NASA engineers. In the UK I'm sure there's an equivalent.

Wait a sec... you only have a rear stand?


Ha ha. Yeah. Stop judging me! ;)


Get a front one, too, for storage. Ideally a hybrid so you can lift either by the fork tubes or the steering tube. The former is easier, the latter is great for getting the weight off the forks for service and such.


I plan to get a front stand too at some point. I figured that it's better to have just a rear stand that no stands at all though, as:

- the rear tyre is kept completely off the ground (1 tyre out of 2 is well preserved)
- I can more easily do chain maintenance (not possible with only a front stand)
- I'm guessing it's probably worse to get flat spots on the left side of the tyre than on a central point on the tyre.


NEVER EVER lift the front first. Rear stand, then front.

Here in the US Pit-Bull is the preferred brand. Bulletproof, designed and built by ex-NASA engineers. In the UK I'm sure there's an equivalent.

Thanks for tips :)

I did actually look around a bit for Pit-Bull stands. They don't seem to be readily available in the UK. There are loads of options for me though.

My hubby got an Abbas stand for his Triumph, and we got a new set of pins for my Ninja. They fit in the swing-arm slots and holds bikes pretty securely. We can get a bike up to working height!

Or.... if your a cheap O'l man and would rather make it yourself you can....
this is the REFINED version, the first version dropped the bike against the Logan lathe and busted the fairing ! GRRRRR !
...
and Yes I can put it on the stand myself without help, I did it slowly and made sure the forks were lining up on the swing arm and then once I was sure I just put the handle to the floor.
.....
of note I used to thin of angle iron to build this thing... I should have used heavier stuff and I wouldn't have had to add the cross brace !
the 3/4" water pipe I added to each side was to keep it from tipping over again.... it's worked so far !

....
Bob.......

I have a forward handle rear stand (Pitbull), and it's quite easy to get the bike up on it.

1) I slide the stand under the bike and roughly line it up while the bike is on its kickstand.
2) I stand the bike up and fold up the kickstand (it blocks the stand handle if it's extended).
3) Holding the left handle bar with my left hand, I position the rear stand on the spools with my right hand and push the handle down, picking the bike up onto the stand.

Took me a few rounds of practice to get the feel of where the right side spool is (you can't see it unless you're really tall), but now it's fast. It's obvious with just a little pressure on the handle if you found the spool or not.

Forward handle stand is much more compact when holding a bike than a regular one, and it feels better to me when lifting and dropping a bike by myself.

https://www.pit-bull.com/dual-swingarm-rear-stands/spooled-forward-handle-rear-motorcycle-stand-f0043-000

KOOL ! a better version of the one I made.... I gott'a make another one I see and this time add some steel wheels !
Bob........

Or.... if your a cheap O'l man and would rather make it yourself you can....
this is the REFINED version, the first version dropped the bike against the Logan lathe and busted the fairing ! GRRRRR !
...
and Yes I can put it on the stand myself without help, I did it slowly and made sure the forks were lining up on the swing arm and then once I was sure I just put the handle to the floor.
.....
of note I used to thin of angle iron to build this thing... I should have used heavier stuff and I wouldn't have had to add the cross brace !
the 3/4" water pipe I added to each side was to keep it from tipping over again.... it's worked so far !

....
Bob.......
Pretty cool design and awesome fabrication job!

Maybe "heavier" isn't what you're after, but stiffer and more rigid. So using wider & thinner pieces would give you stiffer structure for same weight. Larger-diameter 2" tubing with thin walls would be even lighter for higher stiffness. Brace you've got works even better because base of triangle is even larger than tubing! You'll want a triangular brace between lever and left-upright, it'll eventually snap off where lever joins cross-piece.

the stand I made for the XR650L honda was made from 1" galvanized water pipe and worked very well indeed.
I think making one from 1" square 1/8" wall steel tubing would be the best.
I want one like the Pit bull that you stand along side the bike and lever it up ...
that's a better idea ! no long handle out the back to trip over !
My Ninja has threaded holes for the Spools i think but I have no idea what size they are I think 10MM but what the thread count is I have no idea.
I was thinking of just bolting the stand to the bike ...then it can't tip over while it's on there !!!! HAHAHAHA !
....
Bob....

measure threads on swingarm. I've seen some 10x1.5mm and some 10x1.75mm. Supposedly some people have found both on same swingarm!

well when I was messing arround with it in the shop I jammed some random bolts in the holes and buggered up the threads a bit so I took my new tap and die set and matched threads to it.... this one has 10mm 1.25 threads in those Spool holder holes....
man for 50 plus years I have been making due with what ever taps and dies I had on hand.... having a good complete set of taps and dies and the tools to hold them too is fantastic.... the holder for the tap part fits in the ratcheting handle and all that stuff the dies are octagon so they won't turn in the holder !
..... it's really a nice set !
set me back about 100 bucks but I got a good one anyway !
....
i matched a bolt with the threads in the holes and then measured the threads with the thread gauge... then ran the tap down them to clean them up a bit
their in good shape now.... I put bolts in there because I used vice grips to lock the swing arm to the floor jack I made and I was jerking on the bike a bunch and didn't want another "MISSHAP" of it falling off the jack !
....

I tried out my bike jack just for S&G's today and it worked great...
I had to extend the adjustable foot on the jack to just about the end but it worked great easy to get up and easy to get down...
unfortunately I forgot to take pictures ! ....
this Jack is destined to ride in the RX4 if I ever get it ! but I wanted to see if it would work on the Ninja.... and the answer is YES ! LOL

Akima.....
you can still just cut 2 2"x4" short boards for each side of the front fork to get the front tire off the ground.... getting the bike ON those boards might be a struggle ( it would be for me) but I would use a screw jack under the engine
with wood blocks placed so you don't crush the plastic and just jack up the front.... I would get as far forward as I could with the jack though... and watch out it don't fall over doing this !
....
Bob...

Be sure you have rear-end on stand for wide base of support before lifting front-end. Especially if you're jacking up under engine... I wonder how I know that....


I like how you spaced uprights directly beneath swingarm. Strongest support with direct load-path. Adjustable stand I have has these lateral arms with lots of flex. I've dropped bike by having it not perfectly centred or on tilted tarmac.

Might just remove them and chop cross-piece to place uprights directly below swingarn like on your design. :)

I was going to buy a stand but all the ones I saw had these tiny arms that slide out to come in contact with the swing arm.... the weakest link in the chain !
.... I'm wondering if I still have a piece of a camper jack so I can make a crank up bike lift for the Ninja.... that would be cool !
...I'ed like to see a close up of how they attach the hydraulic one to the foot peg.
though.... not sure how that could be real stable ! because stability is a MUST
with 350+ pounds in the air !
....Bob......