View Full Version : Daytona Water Temp Gauge


kkim
November 23rd, 2008, 11:53 PM
sorry, no DIY, but after you take off the right bottom fairing, it's as simple as connecting a ground wire and replacing the present coolant temp sensor with the unit they provide. dress the wiring and you are done. if you want the gauge to light up, you do need to tap into a switched +12v source, but they give you a splice to do that, too.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SRIWvSGY_mI/AAAAAAAABvg/aydsoRaJ6I4/s640/DSC04800-1.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SRIWwD_vqSI/AAAAAAAABvo/Jra-GzPoyUA/s640/DSC04801-1.JPG

Doubles as a clock, too. :)

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_geC920GCq38/SRIWsciVLJI/AAAAAAAABvI/htfxXzQNrAs/s640/DSC04797-1.JPG

Alex
November 24th, 2008, 01:32 AM
Neat mod! Is it relatively water-proof?

kkim
November 24th, 2008, 10:13 AM
Neat mod! Is it relatively water-proof?

It's supposed to be... we'll see. :o

HKr1
November 24th, 2008, 11:32 AM
Very cool add-on :thumbup: Did you get it it from MotoSport ? Think will pick one up after a Baby Eagle :)

kkim
November 24th, 2008, 11:39 AM
Very cool add-on :thumbup: Did you get it it from MotoSport ? Think will pick one up after a Baby Eagle :)

I got mine through a friend when I couldn't find a company that would ship these to Hawaii for a reasonable price. They usually run about $75 at discount on the web.

Baby Eagle???:confused:

VeX
November 24th, 2008, 01:37 PM
It still cheeses me off the temperature range these bikes go through :D .

kkim
November 24th, 2008, 01:41 PM
It still cheeses me off the temperature range these bikes go through :D .

operating temps that I've seen while the bike is moving down the road is between 150-190F.

HKr1
November 24th, 2008, 04:26 PM
Baby Eagle???:confused:

Baby Desert Eagle 9mm :D

kkim
November 24th, 2008, 04:31 PM
Baby Desert Eagle 9mm :D

I knew that, but couldn't figure out what that had to do with the bike... more the wallet, eh? :biggrin1:

HKr1
November 24th, 2008, 04:39 PM
I knew that, but couldn't figure out what that had to do with the bike... more the wallet, eh? :biggrin1:

Get her CCW & will be perfect for the bike ;) :pop2:


Santa will bring a dayton temp gauge :cool:

pantera
May 16th, 2009, 07:47 AM
Is this gauge made by Shindy?

Snake
May 16th, 2009, 07:52 AM
Looks like it also has a clock. Was I seeing that correctly?

pantera
May 16th, 2009, 07:55 AM
Yes, it does come with a clock also.

pantera
May 16th, 2009, 08:27 AM
How much coolant do you lose when you unscrew the OEM sensor ?

kkim
May 16th, 2009, 10:32 AM
very little... maybe a tablespoon??? just be ready with the new unit when you take out the old.

ScorpionNinja
May 25th, 2009, 10:49 AM
Aye aye, nice lil gizmo too add... ill look into getting one later on also! " So easy a caveman can do it " ??? lol

pantera
May 26th, 2009, 06:04 PM
Received and installed my gauge today.All went well except one well nut breaking on the back of one of the fairing bolts.I was able to still hold it in place and get the screw started so I was able to tighten the bolt.While reading the instructions I realized the internal battery on the gauge is not replaceable.I wonder if and when the battery fails if the gauge will still work as long as it is hooked to a power source on the motorcycle.Let the bike run to test the gauge and all seems well.Fan kicks on at 211 degrees F.

pantera
May 27th, 2009, 05:38 PM
Called the company today that makes these gauges(shindy)and they claim the gauge will indeed still work if and when the internal battery fails.

kkim
May 27th, 2009, 05:44 PM
then, what's the battery for... clock?

headshrink
May 27th, 2009, 10:22 PM
Perhaps this is a dumb question, but how do you use this gauge? Is the overheating warning light on the bike not sufficient?
It gets hot here in the summer, so I remembered this thread and was wondering if it would be more useful or more of a toy.

kkim
May 27th, 2009, 10:30 PM
I suppose if you caught the overheating light when it came on, you might be okay, but most times it is not caught early and by the time you notice, the engine is toast. If I read over 200 when I ride, I start to monitor the temp more closely.

I bought mine mainly to monitor the warmup and to know when the coolant was "up to temp" so I would know when it was okay to start pushing the bike. If I'm reading 160 on the gauge, I'm pretty confident at that point the engine is completely warmed up. The clock is a nice feature, too.

pantera
May 28th, 2009, 01:38 AM
The battery is for the memory on the clock.

Banzai
May 28th, 2009, 10:41 AM
Cool, but I'd still trade the damn auto petcock, fuel level gauge, and temp idiot light for a decent half ass temp gauge in the proper location. Add that to the list with a decent tach, too.........

The more I think about it, the more I have to resist the urge to retrofit the Koso gauge set.......

Must fight the urge!!!!!!!!

Duvivr6
May 29th, 2009, 07:34 PM
Wow I really llike that looks nice!! were you get it?
Is there a way to have both the stock sensor ad the gauge installed at the same time?

kkim
May 29th, 2009, 07:36 PM
Is there a way to have both the stock sensor ad the gauge installed at the same time?

I guess you could tee off at the sensor mount point, but why? not sure if there is enough room to do that, though.

Duvivr6
May 29th, 2009, 07:52 PM
Just to keep he functionality of the stock gauges

kkim
May 29th, 2009, 07:57 PM
that would mean for the idiot light on the dash? the gauge is there so that you will know long before that light goes off that the bike is overheating.

like I said, it is possible if you tee off the sensor tap, but I wouldn't know if there's enough room to do so.

Duvivr6
May 29th, 2009, 08:04 PM
yeah i'm sure the light is useless anyways cause by the time you get the light bike should be on fire! if you even are paying attention

headshrink
May 29th, 2009, 09:45 PM
I think I saw mine once. The bike wasn't on fire, but my legs were.

pantera
May 30th, 2009, 03:09 PM
Finally stopped raining so I could take the Ninja out to try the gauge.Gauge works really well and seems to be extremely accurate.Can see the temp rise a few degrees when at stops and cool down at speed.Was only 66 degrees here today so the bike ran at 144 degrees at 75 mph on the highway and at about 150 to 157 degrees on the back roads.Even the gauge on the older Ninja 250 could not show you that.It just stayed in a general area while at operating temperature.

headshrink
May 30th, 2009, 03:22 PM
Where is this available? I'm having difficulty finding it.

kkim
May 30th, 2009, 03:26 PM
It used to be in Richard's store before, but I don't see it now. May want to PM him and ask.
http://store.racebikerentals.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PLST&Store_Code=0001

pantera
May 30th, 2009, 03:28 PM
Dennis Kirk,Parts Unlimited.Also check the web for Shindy gauge or Daytona temp gauge.I found a few places on line that carry it.

CRXTrek
May 30th, 2009, 03:29 PM
Where is this available? I'm having difficulty finding it.

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=&store=Main&catId=&productId=p40663&leafCatId=&mmyId=
http://www.motosport.com/street/product/KOSO-LCD-TEMPERATURE-GAUGE/?catalogId=114530&words=temperture+gauge
:D

headshrink
May 30th, 2009, 04:26 PM
Thanks!

One thing I thought of while looking at the specs.... is the Daytona sensor threaded the same as the OEM sensor?
I assume so since it hasn't been mentioned, but just want to make sure.

kkim
May 30th, 2009, 04:58 PM
.... is the Daytona sensor threaded the same as the OEM sensor?


yes.

NaughtyusMaximus
May 31st, 2009, 09:08 PM
What temp would the idiot light come on at normally?

kkim
May 31st, 2009, 09:13 PM
230-248* f.

Mo1981
June 14th, 2009, 02:24 PM
I installed this yesterday. I gotta say that I feel more secure knowing that I will not be overheating my bike now, especially since I'm in Texas. Thanks for your pics and advice, Kelly. It was definitely helpful.

kkim
June 14th, 2009, 02:51 PM
Anytime, Matt. Great to see you got it figured out.

Glad you like the temp gauge. I also like the clock function, but it's sometimes difficult to switch over with gloved hands. The clock gets a bit off over time, so keep an accurate eye on it. ;)

headshrink
June 26th, 2009, 12:23 AM
Mine should be here Monday :D

Where is a good place to tap into a switched source? I have been studying the service manual, but the electrical schematics are a little over my head.

kkim
June 26th, 2009, 12:37 AM
I used one of the wires around the sensor that you'll be replacing. There is a big connector next to the gas tank area. Use a multimeter and identify any one of those wires that is switched. Use the supplied tap to connect to the wire.

pantera
June 26th, 2009, 01:43 AM
I ran from the license plate light.

Mo1981
June 26th, 2009, 12:22 PM
I ran mine off the same wire as Kelly.
Posted via Mobile Device

headshrink
June 27th, 2009, 08:02 PM
According to the service manual, the temp sensor is supposed to have silicone sealent on the threads. Did you all get special stuff at the dealer, or is there something cheaper/easier to find at HD/Lowes?

kkim
June 27th, 2009, 08:09 PM
just screw the supplied one in. it already has thread sealant (teflon) tape on it, correct?

headshrink
June 27th, 2009, 08:13 PM
just screw the supplied one in. it already has thread sealant (teflon) tape on it, correct?

I'll look.... it isn't due to arive until Monday. I have some teflon tape if not, as long as you're saying it works for this application.

kkim
June 27th, 2009, 08:14 PM
I didn't use any sealant. I'm pretty sure the new sensor comes with tape already on it. :thumbup:

randomwalk101
June 28th, 2009, 09:42 PM
does this thing has back light that lights up for visibility at night?

headshrink
June 28th, 2009, 09:54 PM
Yes, kkim says in his original post that it has a blue one. Which should blend in.

EDIT: I don't know why I said that, or where exactly I thought I saw that.... but mine is green. Blue would have blended better, but an aftermarket velcroed gauge is really more about function than form.

headshrink
June 28th, 2009, 09:56 PM
Are there any other options for dressing the wires?

headshrink
June 29th, 2009, 08:04 PM
I'm working on a DIY (with pics) tonight for this mod, so I have to ask a couple more questions..... please bear with me. I want the DIY to answer all the little questions in a straight forward and simple way, so I gotta get it first ;)

- Where did some of you ground out to?

- Anyone else want to chime in on the switched wire?

- The wires on the unit are pretty long.... did anyone trim them down, or is it best to bunch and zip-tie (they have nice connectors at the end?

- As far as dressing the wires, is this necessary, or just nice? Is it only for the exposed portion, or also under the fairing? I purchased some wire loom (similar to Kelly's) and the package says it is rated to 200 degrees... does it get any hotter under the fairing?

- I am looking for alternative mounting positions.... take a look at the picture below, does this look like it would be secure enough with the included Velcro?

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=14&pictureid=1873

Alex
June 29th, 2009, 08:09 PM
Bob -

Consider writing it up in the wiki rather than as a new post here in the tech section. I think many, if not most, of the DIY's will eventually find their way over there, and as we create new ones now, may as well put 'em there in the first place. If you do decide to wiki it up, ping me if you run in to any issues throughout and I'll work through 'em with you.

- Alex

headshrink
June 29th, 2009, 08:11 PM
Bob -

Consider writing it up in the wiki rather than as a new post here in the tech section. I think many, if not most, of the DIY's will eventually find their way over there, and as we create new ones now, may as well put 'em there in the first place. If you do decide to wiki it up, ping me if you run in to any issues throughout and I'll work through 'em with you.

- Alex

Good idea Alex, I'll do that.

headshrink
June 29th, 2009, 10:20 PM
Ahhhh.... multimeter broke and I don't have enough wire to get to the tail! I need more hints on that switched wire.... pllllease.

Am I looking for brown/white?

kkim
June 29th, 2009, 10:28 PM
I used a multimeter to find a switched wire at that connector. can't tell you what color the wire was. I also ran the ground wire down to that area and bolted it under one of the bolts in that area, too.

you need to make sure the location you select is not going to interfere with turning at all. turn the handlebars from lock to lock and see if the meter hits anything. I wouldn't trust the Velcro to support the meter in that location. If anything, get some industrial strength Velcro or some 3M dual lock to make sure the meter stays put.

headshrink
June 30th, 2009, 12:50 AM
It is finally done. Thanks for the help kelly.

The wire was red w/blue stripe - I studied the manual over, and over, and over until I was brave enough to tap into the central nervous system of my little ninjette.

I'm working on a DIY on the wiki.... it should be done shortly.

headshrink
July 1st, 2009, 12:39 AM
DIY Wiki is DONE... check it out!

http://www.ninjette.org/wiki/DIY_Daytona_Water_Temp_Gauge

kkim
July 1st, 2009, 12:44 AM
good job! :thumbup:

randomwalk101
July 1st, 2009, 01:57 AM
nicely done.

Alex
July 1st, 2009, 10:32 AM
Added a link to the wiki entry from the DIY sticky at the top of the tech section.

randomwalk101
July 1st, 2009, 07:36 PM
need to get one of this baby. Is Shindy is same as Daytona? I noticed that Shindy only has 2 wires as compared to Daytona with 3 wires?

headshrink
July 1st, 2009, 07:55 PM
As far as I have heard on this board, Shindy does make it. I didn't know there was a 2 wire one.

I wish I would have gotten mine sooner, but summer is a good time to get one in. I get up to 220F sitting at lights in mid 80s!!!

almost40
July 1st, 2009, 08:55 PM
Has anyone seen a regular dial gauge for our little ninjas? Im just not that into the digital ones.

randomwalk101
July 1st, 2009, 09:23 PM
I suppose if you caught the overheating light when it came on, you might be okay, but most times it is not caught early and by the time you notice, the engine is toast. If I read over 200 when I ride, I start to monitor the temp more closely.
.

So basically the bike's cooling system is not sufficient in cooling the bike sitting idle on a hot day (radiator/fan and all?)

kkim
July 1st, 2009, 09:44 PM
it will work for a little while, but an important component of the cooling system is air being flowed through the radiator. A fan can only do so much and eventually the system can be overloaded... any system can.

ankh26
July 16th, 2009, 12:24 PM
Where is the cts sensor located

almost40
July 16th, 2009, 12:45 PM
http://www.ninjette.org/wiki/DIY_Daytona_Water_Temp_Gauge

I beat you Kkim....
I WIN. lol

kkim
July 16th, 2009, 12:45 PM
Where is the cts sensor located

http://www.ninjette.org/wiki/DIY_Daytona_Water_Temp_Gauge

Alex
July 16th, 2009, 02:13 PM
Performance chip posts moved to this thread (http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=24479).

randomwalk101
July 19th, 2009, 08:02 AM
finally got a chance to install this yesterday...haven't had a chance to ride it yet though..today after work....work on weekends sucks i tell you man...arghhh
anyways...the gauge back light is green..wish it was blue though...
i mounted it on top of the Scott steering damper...works for now :)

randomwalk101
July 22nd, 2009, 08:36 AM
Anyone tried to tee in the stock wire into the new daytona's wire so the stock light works too? Is this doable?
Posted via Mobile Device

HKr1
July 22nd, 2009, 01:52 PM
Yes, kkim says in his original post that it has a blue one. Which should blend in.

EDIT: I don't know why I said that, or where exactly I thought I saw that.... but mine is green. Blue would have blended better, but an aftermarket velcroed gauge is really more about function than form.

The oil temp gauge says its blue.

headshrink
July 22nd, 2009, 06:53 PM
The oil temp gauge says its blue.

Ahhh.... so they are liars ;)

Momaru
July 23rd, 2009, 05:56 PM
Any fellow 'blue enthusiast' toyed around with the idea of replacing the interior LED or whatever they use for a lighting method? Or is it not that simple?

headshrink
July 23rd, 2009, 08:33 PM
The unit is sealed (it is waterproof) so I wouldn't want to break it. I believe the instructions said the battery is not serviceable by the end user anyways,which would be the same for LED, and you would have to send it into the factory to be replaced. Unless the clock is important to you, the battery isn't even needed. The unit defaults to temp when the key is on anyways.

Now that I am thinking about it.... it would be a better unit if they used digital LED displays instead of LCD.... this would take care of the display blackout issue on 100+ degree days.

randomwalk101
July 26th, 2009, 05:59 PM
So finally took a pic of my Daytona.
I spliced the original wire into the Daytona signal wire so the stock light will light up if temp reach 230F or something like that...More way to alert of a problem is a good thing.

Here is a pic :D
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff11/randomwalk101/Picture078-1.jpg

headshrink
July 26th, 2009, 10:48 PM
Could you please clarify what you mean by this?



You have a steering damper :D I haven't seen one on a 250 before.

randomwalk101
July 27th, 2009, 05:26 AM
Could you please clarify what you mean by this?



You have a steering damper :D I haven't seen one on a 250 before.

just strip the Daytona's wire and solder in the stock wire (the one that you have hanging), then tape it up..that's it :)

Steering damper? That come stock on the bike no? :D

headshrink
July 27th, 2009, 11:26 AM
just strip the Daytona's wire and solder in the stock wire (the one that you have hanging), then tape it up..that's it :)

Steering damper? That come stock on the bike no? :D

So this triggers the "idiot light" on the dash at ~230 degrees? If this is true, that has got to be the simplest hack yet.... I'm surprised no one has mentioned it yet.

randomwalk101
July 27th, 2009, 11:27 AM
So this triggers the "idiot light" on the dash at ~230 degrees? If this is true, that has got to be the simplest hack yet.... I'm surprised no one has mentioned it yet.

will i get a cookie for mentioning it first? :D

Alex
July 27th, 2009, 11:32 AM
http://www.pyromosh.org/images/bbs/have_a_cookie.gif

:rotflmao:

headshrink
August 14th, 2009, 11:50 PM
I just tried tapping into the sensor wire (using a wire tap) to hook the "idiot light" back up. I do NOT recommend this. I ended up destroying it. Apparently the gauge is VERY picky about the sensor wire, and tapping into it really pissed it off. I got readings all over the place, some of them don't exist on this planet. I'll be ordering a replacement sensor now. Grrrrrr....

EDIT: anyone know where I can get a replacement sensor? I have been looking, and looking, but can't find anything!

randomwalk101
August 15th, 2009, 05:44 AM
I just tried tapping into the sensor wire (using a wire tap) to hook the "idiot light" back up. I do NOT recommend this. I ended up destroying it. Apparently the gauge is VERY picky about the sensor wire, and tapping into it really pissed it off. I got readings all over the place, some of them don't exist on this planet. I'll be ordering a replacement sensor now. Grrrrrr....

EDIT: anyone know where I can get a replacement sensor? I have been looking, and looking, but can't find anything!

huh? you're kidding me right? I have it right now and it's working fine. :confused:
I didn't "cut" the sensor wire. I simply stripped a small section, soldered a piece of wire to it, wrapped it up. At the other end of this wire, I put in a spade connector (male) so that will fit into the stock plug.

headshrink
August 15th, 2009, 11:06 AM
That is pretty much what I did too... except I used one of those tap thingies. I think I misjudged the gauge, so it nicked a few braids in the wire, but it wasn't totally severed.

headshrink
August 15th, 2009, 01:08 PM
I took the sender off, cut and stripped the wire, and then discovered why I am likely having this problem. There are TWO wires in there, not just one (see pic below)..... I was probably shorting them out. I am in the process of repairing them right now.

Which one was the signal wire you tapped into, the red?

I'm still looking for a replacement sender (part# 17-850S), but cannot find a single vendor that sells it. If someone knows where I can get one, please let me know.

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=14&pictureid=2117

randomwalk101
August 15th, 2009, 01:29 PM
You have to strip the wire like that to solder it in...can't just use the tap and go through both. If I remember correctly I soldered it into a black one...it has been awhile..can't remember now..got it all wrapped up now.
You should be fine. Just solder each wire back up and you're okay. Put some tape to isolate each wires. You don't need a new sensor.

headshrink
August 15th, 2009, 01:42 PM
You have to strip the wire like that to solder it in...can't just use the tap and go through both. If I remember correctly I soldered it into a black one...it has been awhile..can't remember now..got it all wrapped up now.
You should be fine. Just solder each wire back up and you're okay. Put some tape to isolate each wires. You don't need a new sensor.

Thanks, I'll give that a try.

Yes, as soon as I saw there where two wires in there, I knew I did a bad thing LOL! When I first posted last night, I hadn't realized that yet.

headshrink
August 15th, 2009, 02:19 PM
Update: I have it repaired, but it is acting funny now. I have to have the light disconnected when I turn it on, then reconnect it.... otherwise it won't take a temp. reading. It also seems to read a little lower when it it connected. Could this mean the light should be wired to the black instead?

EDIT: OK, I am an idiot.... you DID say black, but I thought I read red (and that was double checking it). I think I need sleep. So, if anyone wonders what would happen if you connected it to the red, this is what happens. I'm going to try to switch it back to black now..... I don't have much lead to work with :(

randomwalk101
August 15th, 2009, 02:34 PM
Jesus man...looks like you're loosing a lot of sweats. Just solder the two wires up and leave it at that...forget about that idiot light. :)

headshrink
August 15th, 2009, 02:53 PM
Jesus man...looks like you're loosing a lot of sweats. Just solder the two wires up and leave it at that...forget about that idiot light. :)

And I think it has come down to that....
No that it is hooked up to the black it is even worse!
Same issue about not taking a reading if it is hooked up when bike is turned on. But now when I connect it (after turned on), it reads ~20 degrees lower! I'm going to keep it disconnected for now, but I really want to know why this is happening. It would be nice to have it fixed.

In theory, if the senders wires are shortened, will this throw off the reading (or is wire length unrelated)?

VeX
August 15th, 2009, 11:34 PM
Did you still leave the idiot light spliced into the aftermarket sender? If so that could be causing you problems. The stock sender is an "on-off" style so once a certain temperature is achieved the sensor closes the ground connection (causing the light to illuminate). The aftermarket sender is variable (hence the two wires). If you splice the idiot light into that ground it's going to likely affect the reading I would guess! The nature of temperature senders is usually a reading between .5 volts (now a days they're reading even lower then that) and 4.5 volts. So if the sender is registering perhaps 120 degrees it might output 2.5 volts. If it is sensing 200 degrees it might spit out 3.5 volts. By tapping into the ground with the idiot light it's going to pull some of that voltage from the sender causing the sensor to think the bike is cooler then it is (because it's receiving a lower voltage)

headshrink
August 16th, 2009, 12:34 AM
Thanks VeX. Soooo I guess the others only THOUGHT they had it working. Glad I could help ;)

randomwalk101
August 16th, 2009, 05:16 AM
Dang..looks like I need to d/c mine. I had it hooked up but it hasn't gone off (idiot light) or anything since my bike never over heated. The daytona is working like normal....i guess i'll take it out just in case.

VeX
August 16th, 2009, 09:43 AM
It will likely draw current, but the sender probably works on 0-5 volts whereas the bulb is meant to operate at 12 volts :p Take a look at the wiring diagram. The overheat sender literally has only one wire going to it because it completes a ground :p So once the sender hits a predetermined temperature (very much like a thermostat) it closes internally completing the connection.

headshrink
August 16th, 2009, 11:59 AM
Part of me feels vindicated... I'm not crazy after all.

kkim
August 16th, 2009, 12:03 PM
Part of me feels vindicated... I'm not crazy after all.

just because you might be vindicated doesn't mean you're not crazy. :crazyloco:

headshrink
August 16th, 2009, 12:28 PM
just because you might be vindicated doesn't mean you're not crazy. :crazyloco:

Well now you have to go burst my bubble... thanks Kelly. Think I'll have to go back to therapy now (go on a ride). Yes, that is what I will do... right now in fact. ;)

Alex
August 16th, 2009, 12:29 PM
Have fun! :thumbup: