Quote:
Originally Posted by vbrad511
Perfect. I didn't realize the tangs were metal. I did get it all back together today, oil changed twice, seems to be running fine. Take a little twist of the throttle to get it started, but revs nicely and idles and pulls just fine. If it gives us any more grief I'll pull them again and check them.
One more thing, the idle-air screws. They weren't visible on the carbs when I had them off yesterday, but a Youtube vid I watched showed me the location. On these carbs there's a "plate", or a "plug" over them, so you can't see them. Is it ok to pull that plug? What's the best way to do it?
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http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Removin...re_screw_plugs
Then tune them following my guide above.
And check that float height while your doing the idle mixture cap removal.
Remember to inspect the float needle valves, there is a small viton tip, which over time wears out, below is a picture of a very used , and bad one, next to a new one.
Note that the viton tip is worn and pulled away from the metal part, personally I just change them out when doing a rebuild, it's not worth the aggravation of saving a few $$$, Vs flooding the engine, and possibly damaging the engine.
On the other end of the needle valve is a small spring loaded plunger, with also gets stuck, causing the same end results, I suggest getting you parts for @
ducatiman he's got the best prices, plus he includes new stainless steel hardware fasteners.
Setting the floats is the most important part of carburetor tuning, and also the most overlooked.