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corksil · December 24th, 2016, 09:45 PM

Nope. No class 8 truck shops. Only one true machine shop and they cannot fulfill my needs.

As of this point in time I have several options.

-scrap the project and dedicate the materials toward a different purpose
-melt down the copper and re-cast it into a shape that I can tool to my needs
-buy washers of proper OD required and figure out how to drill ID to needed size
@Hellmutt -- there isn't really a proper "required" size, this project has been a process of trial and error.
@Mechanikrazy -- widening an existing hole in a copper washer is a bugger to accomplish. The washer has to be held securely which cannot happen horizontally in a bench vise because the washer deforms when squeezed. I suppose I could try to clamp it vertically but even with a brand new sharp drill bit, cutting oil, and very high speed with light pressure -- the washer tries to bend sideways.

If the drill bit "catches" and dives/plunges, all bets are off and the washer is mangled and it has to be removed from the drill bit with pliers.

This stuff is a little more tricky in application than it is in theory.

Seeming like the best option is to melt and re-cast the copper into a column of proper OD and then drill the center ID to correct size. The I'd have a tube, which would still need to be 'paired off' into the individual washers. If my required thickness was 1mm, I'd lose a lot of copper to the scrap pile with each pass of a cutting tool. Proper blade on a compound miter saw could 'pair off' the washers but with each cut I would lose the width of the blade unless I collected all the copper 'saw dust' and re-melted it but that would be dicey. If I used cutting oil it would contaminate the copper.

For what it's worth, I've learned that all copper washers available are typically stamped.

My attempts at punching the copper with punches pictured further up in the thread haven't been pretty. The copper has to be backed up firmly (with steel) and once the punch breaks through the copper and strikes the steel, the punch dulls rapidly or shatters.

This is proving to be a bit of a riddle.

December 24th, 2016, 09:45 PM	#13
corksil ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: TC Location: Hawaii Join Date: Sep 2013 Motorcycle(s): A lot. Posts: A lot.	Nope. No class 8 truck shops. Only one true machine shop and they cannot fulfill my needs. As of this point in time I have several options. -scrap the project and dedicate the materials toward a different purpose -melt down the copper and re-cast it into a shape that I can tool to my needs -buy washers of proper OD required and figure out how to drill ID to needed size @Hellmutt -- there isn't really a proper "required" size, this project has been a process of trial and error. @Mechanikrazy -- widening an existing hole in a copper washer is a bugger to accomplish. The washer has to be held securely which cannot happen horizontally in a bench vise because the washer deforms when squeezed. I suppose I could try to clamp it vertically but even with a brand new sharp drill bit, cutting oil, and very high speed with light pressure -- the washer tries to bend sideways. If the drill bit "catches" and dives/plunges, all bets are off and the washer is mangled and it has to be removed from the drill bit with pliers. This stuff is a little more tricky in application than it is in theory. Seeming like the best option is to melt and re-cast the copper into a column of proper OD and then drill the center ID to correct size. The I'd have a tube, which would still need to be 'paired off' into the individual washers. If my required thickness was 1mm, I'd lose a lot of copper to the scrap pile with each pass of a cutting tool. Proper blade on a compound miter saw could 'pair off' the washers but with each cut I would lose the width of the blade unless I collected all the copper 'saw dust' and re-melted it but that would be dicey. If I used cutting oil it would contaminate the copper. For what it's worth, I've learned that all copper washers available are typically stamped. My attempts at punching the copper with punches pictured further up in the thread haven't been pretty. The copper has to be backed up firmly (with steel) and once the punch breaks through the copper and strikes the steel, the punch dulls rapidly or shatters. This is proving to be a bit of a riddle. __________________________________________________ Just batshit crazy. All his posts are endless diatribes. Some are actually entertaining but mostly batshit crazy.