Quote:
Originally Posted by redonninrf
I forget what the base metal for that part of the engine is but stainless steel and aluminum do not mix. Even mixing SS with regular steel, or SS with SS, can seize. And when SS fasteners seize they seize. Trust me I know  . One of the reasons I ended up owning a Dremel tool with cut-off wheels. If going with stainless use a generous amount of anti-seize compound.
Those 6mm screws are going to have a 1.0 mm pitch so you're looking for M6 x 1.0 - <length in mm> screws. True Value hardware stores carry the Servalite brand which usually turns out to be a really good selection of fasteners. Guess that's Hillman brand now since they bought Servalite. Anyways, usually a better selection than Lowes or Home Depot. The True Value store in my town even has chrome metric fasteners which would really raise the bling.
The black oxide socket head cap screws are cheaper and will look great at first but they rust easily. Strong screws but not the least bit rust-proof.
I'm very OCD about torqueing things. If the bike or car manual provides a torque setting I use it. For low-torque items like spark-plugs, brake bleed nipples, and cover screws I like the Craftsman inch-lb clicker torque wrench. |
I have never had a stainless fastener lock-up in aluminum, cast iron or steel. I sure have had steel fasteners lock-up in aluminum and even wood in marine applications. Ask anyone who has disassembled an outboard boat motor. I always lubricate threads on anything I screw together. Maybe that's why. I would be extremely cautious using never/anti seize with a torque wrench. In fact, I will not do it. You need to reduce the torque value by about 50% if you do otherwise you will pull threads of twist-off screws/bolts.
Engine oil is a very good thread lubricant. Type "A" transmission fluid is OK also.
Bill