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Hopefully the pictures are obvious. I just wanted to note for all those who think you can't put pod filters on a CV carbed engine without problems, it's not true unless you don't really know what you're doing (or you literally try to clamp a pod right to the mouth of the carb). True, the slight loss of vacuum from the airbox can cause a shift in your fuel curve, but unless your airbox is extremely restrictive, it would be only at the very top of the rev range. The most important thing is keeping the path of the air leading into the mouth of the carb as unchanged from stock as possible, which basically means either have a very long straight intake tube the actual length of which to allow for a fully developed flow wouldn't fit on the bike or utilizing the stock rubber convergent nozzles that came on the thing to begin with. If you're going for maximum power, you can rejet, but really the engine should run fine. Stock airboxes aren't that restrictive. For a filter, I'm using an older pair of underwear zip-tied over the mouth of my intake tubes, and my throttle response is incredible with no dips or sudden bursts of power anywhere in the rev range. This engine revs considerably faster than my 250 did. In all fairness, I did mildly port the head before installing the engine, but that really entailed only smoothing out some of the curves right behind the valve seats. For the exhaust, I did cut the mufflers open and remove some of the more restrictive baffling. I did maintain the basic 3-chamber design of the mufflers though.
When it boils down to it, the mod is mechanically simple. If you're willing to cut the rear engine mounts off your frame, you can mock the 500 engine up into place roughly on center with the frame, weld on new mounts, make a new front bracket, and really you're good to go. I would strongly recommend mocking up the WHOLE system though. I went as far the radiator but didn't mock up the thermostat and filler routing before welding everything up. I got it to fit, but it took a little more work that it may have otherwise. Also, because of the roundabout way in which I undertook the swap, the engine ended up 1/4" further to the left than I wanted, so I actually had to mold one of my PVC intake tubes to clear the frame. I spent less than $10 on this swap if you exclude the motor. I do have access to a machine shop and lots of free scrap metal, but the only scrap I used was for the front engine mount, which I could have made by welding and cutting on a saw rather than machining if I wasn't so lazy.
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