Quote:
Originally Posted by rojoracing53
Clutch spring bolts are ether tight or not there's no room for adjustment I believe your problem lies else where.
It you clutch cable free play properly adjusted?
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My clutch cable was recently replaced and I adjusted it to remove any free play at the clutch clevis end by pushing the clevis forward towards the front of the bike eliminating any free play. I have adjusted the lock nuts to the absolute extreme, as at the actual clutch lever there is barely enough slack to wiggle the lever, indicating that the clutch is fully ENGAGED when the lever isn't touched. I also adjusted my clutch lever wayyyyyy out and it gets to about 95% disengaged when pulled in, but the lever travel is insanely huge and overly difficult to pull with my hand. It seems that it IS possible to almost fully disengage my clutch although it is difficult.
I adjusted my clutch cable according to this:
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Adjusting_the_clutch_cable
It's difficult to describe, but since the clutch never fully disengages, I would have expected it to fully engage right as I let the clutch lever out and not only at the end of the lever throw. I'll try to elaborate below:
Lever 0% out: Clutch is about 80% disengaged, RPMs drop a little, engine pitch drops and bike wants to crawl forward. If brakes are applied, the engine fights to not stall.
Lever 1-75% out: Same as above.
Lever 76-100% out: Standard friction zone, bike is able to pull away as usual my modulating the clutch/throttle.
I sort of expected it to begin to fully engage at the very onset of letting the clutch lever out with my problems.
The clutch release shaft only goes into the clutch cover one way, is that correct? Maybe I have it 180 degrees in the other direction or something. I did pull the shaft out to remove the actual cable. Same for the clutch push rod, that fell out when setting the pressure plate aside, I put it into place and may have overlooked any indentations or markings on the rod.