[n4mwd]

First video: It really didn't look like the exhaust lobe was right, but its hard to tell in the video. Remember that both lobes on the cylinder you are working on should be pointing up and away from each other like this: "\ /" The "1|T" mark is correct only half the time. If the lobes aren't pointing up correctly, then rotate the crank one full turn. And remember to change it to "2|T" for cylinder #2.

In case we weren't clear on what you need to do, the nut is basically a locknut and that is the dangerous one if overtightened. The screw that goes inside the nut is the adjuster. So you have to loosen the nut so that you can turn the screw in and out to the proper thickness. Then tighten the nut back up - BUT NOT OVERTORQUING IT. I may sound like a stuck record on this, but its better to be too loose than too tight if you aren't sure. If you hear any kind of cracking sound while turning the locknut either direction, then you need to stop and examine the rocker's dog ears for chips. Its hard to believe that such a tiny thing could destroy this engine, but it will if you give it a chance.

Anyway, I have been experimenting with the last several valve adjustments on an easier way to do the measurements. The problem with the standard method is that the adjuster screw has a tendency to tighten up a tad when you tighten the locknut - thus throwing off your gap.

My new method (experimental) is to put the next larger feeler gauge in there and leave it there during the tightening process. So if the max is 0.007", I use 0.008". So what I do is tighten the adjustment screw down onto the feeler gauge so that there is a good bit of pressure on the valve. Then I tighten the locknut. Since the adjuster screw already has pressure on it, it can't easily turn when I tighten the locknut. Then when all is tight, I pull out the feeler and the valve snaps back up to the proper gap - so 0.007" goes in and 0.008" does not.

Either method is valid, its just that the new method seems less frustrating because you don't have to keep redoing things when the locknut accidentally tightens the adjuster also. YMMV.

Second Video: That cam chain is WAY to loose. I realize that you took the chain guide off for inspection, but when you turned it, you probably skipped a tooth or two and didn't realize it. The guide helps prevent that.

So what needs to be done now is that you need to move the crank to "2|T" and look at the IN and EX marks on the back side of the cam sprockets. This has to be viewed from the left side. The IN and EX marks should be even with the edge of the cylinder head - and of course the chain needs to be tight between the two.

The cam chain tensioner is still not working right. You need to remove it and see if you can work it back and forth to get it to free itself. I push on the lever with a socket extenson (which tightens the chain), then I push on the chain, which moves the lever back up. By doing this repeatedly, the tensioner mechanism will free up.

You might want to check the tensioner parts. Make sure that none of the little ball bearings fell out of the locking collar and that both springs are in good shape. When the CCT is working properly, you wont be able to deflect the chain much at all after a revolution or two.

And you should not ride it with the cam chain loose like that. If it skips a tooth when running, the result can be almost as bad as overtorquing the rockers. If you are lucky, it will just run bad or quit, but don't count on it.

You should measure your chain. The manual says to measure a bunch of links, but to do it their way, you have to remove the chain, which is a major deal (the engine has to be removed and the crankcase split). But you can also just measure multiple segments between the two tight sprockets and look for any major differences or obvious damage. Its just as good as doing it the factory way and a lot easier.