Quote:
Originally Posted by FvnnyL3tt3r1ng
...Found the intake springs for cylinder one left side (as you're sitting on the bike) laying underneath the cam. The rocker was lying in the corner and one of the valve keepers has gone missing while the other one seems to have been destroyed.
As far as the rings I don't notice anything visually wrong with them.
Cylinder 2's piston looked a little purple ish in the spots around the rings while cylinder one's piston looked fine.
There is a little bit of scratches on the intake valve stem and the washer piece that sits on top of the springs.
I don't know if that was causing the overheating somehow?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FvnnyL3tt3r1ng
If I run the bike with the radiator cap open and after the thermostat opens I observe coolant flow going into the radiator, is there any need to check the water pump? I'd just rather not pull it out and risk damaging an o-ring.
I revved the bike and observed greater flow as well after the thermostat had opened....
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I thought you had a pro reset your valve keepers correctly the last time you had it apart. The valve keepers don't usually fail. I have never heard of them failing on any kind of engine. However, if one was left in the condition like I saw them in when I was there, then they will fail for sure.
Since you have the engine apart, go ahead and examine the cylinder block. You need to make sure that there is nothing blocking the flow. Its possible that you have flow around one cylinder, but not the other. Use a hose with a jet nozzle to blast into each side. Wipe the inside cylinders dry when done.
The reason that I think inspecting the water pump is necessary is not because it isn't working, but because a piece of the impeller may have come loose and gotten wedged in the cylinder block - thus causing a restricted flow around one cylinder. You don't have to pull the whole pump, just removed the cover. You'll need a new gasket probably.
So the purpose is to inspect the impeller for damage.
You also need to check the cylinder section, top and bottom, and the head for warpage. Just put a straight edge of some kind across the top and look for gaps. If the head and cylinders got to a certain temperature, then they will warp and will need to be machined flat again.
Since you have loose parts in there, you will probably want to remove the clutch cover. A lot of times that is where they end up. You will want to inspect the lower timing chain guide that is just under the crankshaft. When things get wedged under the timing chain, this is a part of the main block that tends to get snapped off. You need to recover these things because if they get wedged between two gears, they can cause a lot more trouble than you have now.
I actually think the problems are unrelated because it sounds like cylinder #2 was the one that was overheating and cylinder #1 was the one that failed.
Some pictures would be helpful.