Quote:
Originally Posted by alex.s
sure, in first gear. from a stop.
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anything under 10mph you should still be able to loop it, my problem clutchless upshifting is that I don't quite have the timing down from first to second and either get the power back on early = front wheel off the ground, or I get on the power late and it just feels awkward. I've never gotten it off the ground more than 2 feet or so on the upshift as it's usually between 1-2 feet though closer to 2. typically I stay on the throttle and it stays up for a second or two before dropping back down.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQohsDpFlNI" TARGET="_blank">Link to original page on YouTube.
I need to budget in a gopro or something to explain my points better :/ but anyway, I figure those wheelies are around 4-5 feet since they look a bit more than double the height of my unintentional ones.
Quote:
Originally Posted by csmith12
2nd, when your straight up and down, you can get on the brakes much harder than you think. Remember that one if you ever feel your gunna enter a corner too fast.
3rd, you already know that you could improve on your clutch/braking and upshifting but honestly, for street riding your upshift is fine but do try to kill the coasting. As you learn the capabilities of your brakes, you will get a better feeling of when to hit them so you will not brake to early.
Things that most riders will NOT tell you;
That corner at 2:00 is under shade. Your traction could vary with different conditions/temps.
The corner at 2:00 is bind as well, late apex it. Why? So when you exit the corner, your bike and a cage will not try to occupy the same space at the same time (cars turn in too early too). It will also give you more time to set your entry speed.
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on the braking point, the brakes on the ninjette shouldn't stoppie you so if you really need to get on them while you're straight up then you can use all of them, just use them progressively to avoid locking them up. if you lock up the rear just stay on it, but if you lock up the front release and reapply before you're on the ground.
as for the shifting, upshifting is good enough but try blipping the throttle some more on downshifts and avoid coasting. engine braking helps slow you down a lot on ninjettes.
the shade point is a lot more important in winter as this is where ice is going to pop up and ruin your day, even if it may be 40 degrees out or so the shade lowers it enough to where it will take forever for it to properly melt. late apexing is almost always the way to go on the street, while you do have to slow down a bit more for it you have more vision and great throttle roll on practice.