Thread: Bare bones cafe
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Old January 21st, 2015, 07:32 PM   #14
choneofakind
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MOTM - Feb '13, Feb '14
I approve of this build.

Lemme answer some questions. Sorry if I don't hit them all. I'll stay with you for a bit and hopefully help.

Jetting: get some jets, they're keihin jets, sizes 108, 110, and 112. That should cover most exhaust/intake combos when you consider that you also have the stock 105's still. Get some SAE #4 washers to shim the needles out, as needed. They're about 3mm ID, 6mm OD, and 1mm thick.

Front tire: 110/90-16 is the biggest you can run and is actually recommended for a good profile/height by the wiki article at ninja250.org. You'll have to raise the fender to do so. Article on the wiki. Check out faq.ninja250.org

Tail end raise: 1" does great. Go for it. My bike gets tracked and the tail is lifted about 1.5" and it's lovely. If you also put a larger front tire, your geometry will actually be less severe than if you did the same lift on stock size tires. Aka, it will still be great in the handling department.

Newgen rear shock: realistically about 1/2". Maybe an inch depending on how terribly saggy your old one is and how new your new one is. The 300 shock is also a straight swap but has different damping rates than the newgen shock.

Exhaust: article on the wiki. Yoshimura had a full one but it's hard to find. Same with Kerker. Muzzy had one but it is no longer produced new and it seems that everywhere I've seen online has already sold their inventory of new systems. Area P makes the best one IMHO from a craftsmanship standpoint and it even had the option for the quietest model on the market, but it is no longer made i kick myself daily for not taking the chance to get in on the original GB when it happened. Full exhausts will be ebay specials.

Rearsets: personal preference. There's rearsets, there's adapter plates that move the stock rearsets. Really just depends what you want to pay and how important it is to have easily replaceable parts. Ymmv on this one.
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