[gfloyd2002]

EDIT: Copied from another thread

Those 23,000 miles worry me and the owner not doing the valve service worries me more. If the bike hasn't been treated well, the engine may not have another 15k miles in it. And getting the valves and brakes done is going to cost you.

I could have sworn there was a thread on here somewhere on how to check out a used bike, but I'm not finding it. Recreating from several sources:

• Check the drive chain and sprocket. The chain should have around ¾" of play (up and down) and the teeth of the sprocket should not show obvious damage or wear. Try to wiggle the chain side to side on the sprocket. There shouldn't be much movement on a good set. A severely worn sprocket indicates either an old sprocket or a poor maintenance schedule. See if you can pull the chain off the rear sprocket. If you can, the chain is shot. Hooked or bent sprocket teeth are a sign they will need to be changed and that the owner hasn't cared well for the bike.
• The tires should have good tread all the way across the surface with no signs of uneven wear or damage. Daily drivers' tires will often have more wear in the middle on the tread (more highway driving). Others who've raced their motorcycle on the track, will have tires that show more wear at the edge of the tread. If the bike has a ton of tire wear around the edges, beware. Make sure the tires are properly inflated to spec - if they are underinflated, you can assume that the owner doesn't do regular maintenance checks, beware.
• Look at the condition of the brake and clutch levers, bar-end weights, straightness of the bars and instrument cluster. These could be signs of an accident or drop. Others could be scratched engine cases, foot pegs or exhaust pipes.
• Hold the handbrake and bounce the front suspension. It should feel even and firm. Get off the bike and check the fork tubes for signs of rust, pitting and oil. These are signs of worn fork seals, or possible future expensive problems.
• While checking the forks, run a fingernail across the brake rotors, feeling for uneven wear or grooving. Needing to replace pads is one thing, but rotors is not only more expensive, it is a sign of mistreatment. Look for dents or damage to the rim while you are down there. Check to see the brake lines aren't leaking and unkinked, and that the brake fluid (and all fluids on the bike in fact) are at the right levels.
• Put the bike on its center stand if so equipped; turn the bars side to side. Feel for any 'notchy-ness' or roughness in the steering head.
• If possible, check the visible frame; remove the seat to see underneath it also. There should be no dents, kinks or visible damage to the frame. If there is, walk away. Inspect under fairings (if the motorcycle has fairings). Remove the same fairing the owner removes to change spark plugs and do routine maintenance. Check the frame for fatigue at the weld points. Inspect the overall condition of the engine block, plugs, and radiator. Check for leaks around the oil filter and oil pan bolt.
• While the seat is off and you can access the battery, clip the multi-meter across the battery terminals and check the voltage. It should read no less than 12 volts. Start the engine. The meter should read no more than 14 volts or so while running. If it does, walk away.
• Open the fuel tank and check for obvious signs of rust or corrosion using your flashlight (not a match or lighter ).
• Look at the brake fluid level. This is usually on top of handlebars, in an enclosure with a clear window. With the engine running, pull hard on the front brakes level and release while watching the fluid level. It should fall and rise. It should rise quickly once the brake is released.
• Is the paint, plastic or chrome scratched, dented or rusty? Does it look like the owner has ever washed or waxed the motorcycle? If the owner hasn’t taken care of the outside, it’s a good bet he hasn’t taken very good care of the inside.
• Then, look for missing parts such as side covers or tire valve stem caps. In addition, looking at the fasteners on the bike will give you a good idea of the mechanical skills and know how of the owner. Look specifically for rounded off or, even worse, missing fasteners such as cotter pins. If there are modifications, are they professional looking or are you seeing duct tape and zip ties all over the place?
• Ask to see the place the bike is stored looking for obvious signs of fluid leaks and other potential issues. Seeing a clean, dry, safe place and a bike cover are signs that the owner has taken care of his motorcycle.
• Ask about what oil he uses, and how often he changes it. Ask about the last time the valves were inspected. Look up the maintenance schedule for the bike and know what the answers should be before he gives you his answers. If he isn't sure, then assume that the bike hasn't had regular maintenance. With 23k miles on the engine, walk away.
• Be aware of how long it takes the bike to warm up. Extremely delayed warming could be a sign of issues to come. Also could be a sign of a lean condition that is bad for an engine in the long term. This could be worrying for a bike with 23k miles on it. Make sure the bike idles at a low, steady rpm and doesn’t make any funny sounds.
• Check the clutch. Pull the lever in and release it. The action should be smooth and free of binding. Shift the bike into first. Shifting should be even and the gears should click into place. Make sure the bike rolls as if in neutral with the clutch pulled in. You can slowly let the clutch out and feel for the friction zone to make sure the clutch is engaging properly. When the clutch engages, it should not be an abrupt jolt.
• With the exhaust cool, wipe your finger on the inside of the exhaust. If your finger comes out clean, particularly on a long warm up to start, you probably have a bike that has run too lean. This could create engine wear problem and decrease life of already high mileage engine.
• Is there an aftermarket exhaust? If so, did the owner also adjust the carb/injection? If not? Lean . . . engine wear . . . bad at 23k miles.