Finished my edition of this mod about two weeks ago, finally getting some pics up. Since Tri did such a great write-up, I'll just toss up some summary photos from my build, highlighting some differences between the OP and I.
This is what I sat down with to make the wiring harness. I wound up buying (almost) all of my connectors as kits and doing the crimps, etc for all of them, to ensure they strong, tight and waterproof as reasonably possible. As I mentioned above, I found out during the process that Kawasaki used an H4 female connector on the stock harness (and an adapter to interface w/ the H7 bulbs), so I subbed that in for the H7.
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My mounted projectors. I think I must've spent 2 hours just measuring to cut the holes for the projectors; time well spent though. For the record a 3" hole saw will work, but like Tri mentions in his DIY, there's very little room for error. I wound up using M4x30mm (0.7 thread pitch) for the bolts that go through the lowest black plastic points of the lens support (as well as the mounting board) as this is what it came with and was threaded to use M4, I just went a lot longer. Used 20mm long M5x25mm (0.8 thread pitch) for the upper bolts that just go through the metal part of the projector housing (and again, the mounting board) instead of M8 bolts like Tri since the housing had been drilled crooked on one of the holes and I didn't want to risk making it too thin. I used really long bolts in all of these slots because I wanted room to attach standoffs for the faceplate (the 6 white things) Nylock nuts and blue loctite were both employed after aligning everything to make sure nothing vibrates loose.
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I used spacers behind the faceplate because I wanted the shrouds up front on the housings and because I didn't want to waste the mounting rings (for the shrouds) I'd purchased. Wound up threading the spaces onto various mounting bolts and epoxying the spacers to the back of the faceplate.
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After feeling how much heat these bulbs put out, I decided to add a third heat/air equalizing vent by cutting off the tip of the plastic rod-thing that's in the center-back of the headlight housing. I attached a spare vent tube from another headlight I had hanging around. Shown here with the end of the tube coming out from behind the housing. Didn't take any specific pics of this, unfortunately.
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Skipped the carbon fiber vinyl since I kinda like the semi-gloss black finish the PVC had on it to begin with; almost perfectly matches the stock plastic in the corners. Spent a LONG time prototyping and test-fitting the faceplate though, as I wanted a much tighter fit to hide pretty much all of the air gaps and hardware.
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More-or-less final alignment of the projectors. I wound up spending an hour or so tweaking the pitch and yaw of the two housings to get them to synch up the light beam.
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Finished product
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Don't have pics, but I wound up going with the Morimoto 3Five ballasts & 5000k Morimoto bulbs, both from TheRetrofitSource. A bit pricey but quality hardware. The only catch is that the Morimoto system uses true D2S bulbs, not the re-based ones that have wired connectors coming out of the back like many HID retrofit kits. As such, I had to trim the rubber dust boot on the back of the headlights to get the connectors to fit properly, but there's no extra wiring cluttering up the area behind my dash and in the event of a flood, my ballasts are waterproof.
All in all, I spent WAY longer on this than I thought I would, especially with the faceplate. But it was a mountain of fun and I'm extremely pleased with the end result.
I'd be more than happy to help any east-coasters out with this (or anyone really) should they decide to undertake the task. Also, I have a spare sheet each of the mounting and faceplate material, courtesy of Tri/CThunder-blue.
Tri, thanks again for an excellent DIY and (at least for this group) pioneering this task for we the less-brave.
