Quote:
Originally Posted by NevadaWolf
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Yeah, listen to that guy. He's really smart. And handsome and funny too.
The wiring diagram shows the PreGen wired up the same way as the NewGen, with the indicator using the + wire from each side's turn signal. It should behave exactly the same way. Any bike with a single turn signal indicator wired up this way should inherently do the same thing. Personally, I think it's a really cheap cop-out way of wiring the indicator up.
Note that the larger load of incandescent bulbs keeps them from lighting up due to this "leaking" current from the other side. Depending on exactly what LED signals you get, it's possible they might be a large enough load that the stray power isn't enough to light them up.
I think everyone should do the diode mod. I see it as fixing a deficiency in the OEM wiring which relies on a flaw (bulb inefficiency) to result in proper operation. Adding the diodes installs one-way gates so that each side can access the indicator without being able to power the opposite side. It'll work just fine with a bone stock bike, though I guess it's a bit of wasted time/money if you never end up changing anything from the "it ends up working ok" stock setup. Installing the diode mod will also let you switch the indicator bulb to an LED if you so desire (the stock indicator will only work for one side if you install an LED).
The EX500 doesn't suffer from this because it has a separate indicator for each side, so the two sides are completely isolated. The single indicator is what bridges the two sides together and is the root cause of this issue.
The flasher is completely separate from the diode stuff, and has to do with old-fashioned flashers relying on the larger load of incandescent bulbs. As a safety feature, they blink faster when they see a lower load (i.e. a dead bulb). However, LEDs are more efficient and closer to a dead incandescent than a live one, so the flasher thinks there's a bulb out and hyperflashes. An electronic flasher will flash at the normal rate regardless of the load on it, so it will work with incandescent bulbs or LEDs, and with good or dead bulbs (so make sure you're checking your signals for proper operation in your pre-ride check).
I'm not sure what the difference is internally, but there are 2-wire and 3-wire flashers. Some just have a +12V in and a "flashing +12V" out. Others also have a ground wire. The Gen2 EX500 switched from a 3-wire to a 2-wire halfway through its run for no apparent reason. The Tridon EP34 is a good 3-wire replacement, while the
ELFR-1 and
LF1-S-FLAT are PnP 2-wire options for the EX500, VFR800, and probably others (the NewGen is 2-wire according to the wiring diagram, but I don't know what the plug is like).
http://www.ex-500.com/wiki/index.php...er_Replacement has most of this info too, though it's obviously aimed at the 500 rather than the 250. The underlying info is all relevant though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostt
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One thing that bugs me about this kit is that it grounds to the frame via the ring terminal, instead of using a ground wire that's already present in the harness you're messing with. The frame
should be grounded, but it's best to just use existing common ground wire when the harness includes one. When Tri said he was getting out of making these at least for a while, I thought about making my own version without the ring terminal.