Break-in is more for seating the rings than anything to do with the actual piston. To seat the rings you want cylinder pressure. That means load. Moderate loads with a variation in RPMs is usually recommended, as is some heat-cycling.
I've been told by a high-end (Porsche, Ferrari, Nascar and NHRA experience) engine builder that extended break-in time isn't needed if the machine-work has been done properly. He said oil isn't critical (synthetic isn't any more "slippery" than conventional oil as long as it has the correct additive package - no "Friction Modifiers"), but he likes to change it fairly quickly after the engine has been run a while (complete rebuild, after running maybe an hour). So just run an inexpensive conventional oil that's motorcycle compatible like Rotella T. Don't run any automotive oil in a cycle engine.
That's pretty much in-line with what I thought, but there are many opinions on the subject.
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