[rwheelz]

I figured I would post some results and ask some questions. A month or so ago I modded my wife's ninjette, after reading every thread I could find on here. It is a 2009 model and I added the FP jet kit, K&N pod filter and Tyga full exhaust. I also removed the KLEEN system. FINALLY the weather warmed up and the snow melted, and today I got the inaugural run to start the tuning. I have never played with carbs before, so it was all new to me (big thanks to my buddy simon who helped me out, also a carb newb but an engineer). The many DIY threads were invaluable- HUGE THANKS to all of the contributors!!

I used the 110 mains, FP pilot #40, needles on position 2. I live at 3800 ft. I did not adjust the float height because I didn't know what I was doing!

Riding impressions: the bike cold-started as usual and was seemingly unchanged (that is the general theme here). I was following the instructions in the FAQ along with the FP tuning guide. This leads me to question number 1: the FP guide tells you to compare the way the bike runs "cold" vs "warm." But I don't really want to wind the bike out to 13k rpm when it is cold...?

I took it for a ride to test the top end and it pulled hard and was completely smooth. No bogging, no stuttering or hesitation of any sort. Ran it hard to redline in every gear and it felt great. It even pulls to redline in 6th now, it would not do that previously on flat ground (and keep in mind, I haven't even put the side fairings back on yet). I saw an indicated 110mph going down a long hill (CLOSED COURSE, naturally).

So I figure the 110 main is a go. I start testing the mid range 5-7k and it feels great there too- no bogging, no hesitation or stutter, just smooth and consistent. So I move to the low end, and I *think* it is a little rich under 4k or so, it seems to be a little sluggish compared to the rest of the powerband. It was also this way when the bike was stock, so I am not sure if I should be expecting much change there...?

I proceeded to test it in every way I could think of- WOT at every possible rpm in each gear, part throttle acceleration, on-and-off the throttle, taking off from a standstill, cruising at a constant rpm... never so much as a hiccup. It felt the same after flogging it for 20 minutes as it did when I first headed out.

When I got back, the bike idled perfectly at ~1400. When I blip the throttle it immediately returns to idle, no hanging and no dipping.

Does anyone have suggestions on what to do next? Should I be swapping jets and/or adjusting needle heights to see if there is an appreciable difference one way or another? The bike feels so good that I am reluctant to change anything at all.

Tomorrow I am going to sync the carbs, and put a wideband in the pipe to see how the A/F looks, mostly to see if the low end is rich as I suspect. I wanted to ride it without the wideband first, so I could concentrate on how the bike felt. FP warns that "tuning to an A/F ratio is the biggest scam in the industry." It is the standard in the automotive world, so I am not sure what to make of that statement. I do not have access to an exhaust gas analyzer.

We dyno'd the bike in the fall when it was completely stock (23hp) and plan to do it again in the spring. For now, I would like to finish the tuning and get the plastics back on it, so I can start on the jetting on my 9R!