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Google Drive links were copied 2nd time after being pasted. That’s why there’s .... in middle of link (not just in displayed text). Best to use Share -> Get Link, then paste it directly into post without having to copy it from anywhere.
- do compression test. Always 1st step in any poor-running scenario. Will pinpoint mechanicsl issues like valve-sealing, headgasket, etc. Saves you tonne of time in diagnosing problems.
- Does your model have O2-sensor? Verify with oscilloscope that its output swings from 0,15 to 0,85v many times per second with warmed up engine.
- test/measure TPS sensor and idle-switch.
- test/measure ECT sensor with warmed-up engine as ECU makes AFR corrections based upon engine-coolant temp. If ECT is sending incorrect data, fueling will be off.
- test/measure MAP sensor at idle with warmed-up engine. This is major contributor to load/sensing and ECU will inject improper amount of fuel if MAP signal is incorrect.
- verify MAP sensor signal by measuring actual intake-manifold vacuum at idle with warmed up engine.
- measure fuel-pressure in rail at idle with warmed-up engine
Basically, EVERYTHING has to be within spec or bike will run poorly. Any one (or more)!of those components being out-of-adjustment or out-of-spec will cause bike to run poorly. Most important diagnostic tools for mechanics in past 100-years is voltmetre and vacuum-gauge.
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