Quote:
Originally Posted by gantt
I listened to the video, but the google drive links won’t open for me. Says an error 404
Since you said this Started after You did work to the bike, we need to be sure you didn’t cause this issue by mistake. Double check all of your work. Sometimes you can cause an issue while working and not realize it. Check all connections and connectors. Does your fuel smell ok? Oil level correct? See if you can get a picture or two of the coils since you had questions about them.
How is your air filter? Sounds like the bike is running rich which could mean too much fuel or not enough air flow.
We’ll sort this out, don’t regret your old 250 just yet.
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Pictures should open now!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JAJ...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1J73...ew?usp=sharing
The bike already had idling problems but they were very SLIGHT! I am wondering if I just made the problem worse!
I checked all that I can, the bike starts up fine, no issues, its only when it warms up that it starts to fail! I think the fuel smell fine I mean I don't smell anything out of the ordinary.
I checked the air filter. It looks fine to me. I cleaned it with dishw asher soap. Some of the red dye came off the K&N air filter. I hope I didn't break that too :/
I don't think it's an air issue but the air filter did smell like fuel.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkv45
I can't see the Google Drive photos either.
There are plenty of things that can cause what you are experiencing, most are pretty simple to correct.
Is the battery fully charged? Check the voltage before starting - should be 12.7V. Check it cranking - should be over 10V. Check it at idle - should be 13V or more. F.I. bikes do odd things if the voltage is low.
How old is the fuel? If there's any question, drain and refill before taking things apart. Add a strong fuel system cleaner like Techron Concentrate once per season to clear deposits from the injectors, intake valves, and combustion chamber.
Did you oil the new air filter - too much? Put the original one back in and see how it runs.
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I believe the battery is fully charged. It has never died out on me once and the bike ALWAYS starts when I crank it. I've crank it a bunch of times in a row with no issues. I mean I could swap out the battery from my SFV650 and see if it does the same thing? Could the battery do that though?
I do not have a multi meter but I will go out tomorrow and buy one.
I will buy a cleaner, do you recommend putting in premium gas? Like chevron or shell?
Did I oil the air filter? I do not know what you mean by that. Can you clarify?
Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ
Google Drive links were copied 2nd time after being pasted. That’s why there’s .... in middle of link (not just in displayed text). Best to use Share -> Get Link, then paste it directly into post without having to copy it from anywhere.
- do compression test. Always 1st step in any poor-running scenario. Will pinpoint mechanicsl issues like valve-sealing, headgasket, etc. Saves you tonne of time in diagnosing problems.
- Does your model have O2-sensor? Verify with oscilloscope that its output swings from 0,15 to 0,85v many times per second with warmed up engine.
- test/measure TPS sensor and idle-switch.
- test/measure ECT sensor with warmed-up engine as ECU makes AFR corrections based upon engine-coolant temp. If ECT is sending incorrect data, fueling will be off.
- test/measure MAP sensor at idle with warmed-up engine. This is major contributor to load/sensing and ECU will inject improper amount of fuel if MAP signal is incorrect.
- verify MAP sensor signal by measuring actual intake-manifold vacuum at idle with warmed up engine.
- measure fuel-pressure in rail at idle with warmed-up engine
Basically, EVERYTHING has to be within spec or bike will run poorly. Any one (or more)!of those components being out-of-adjustment or out-of-spec will cause bike to run poorly. Most important diagnostic tools for mechanics in past 100-years is voltmetre and vacuum-gauge.
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Someone recommended a compression test. I mean would it start having that kind of issues on a bike that barely has 6 thousand miles on it? I assume a compression tester is universal right? I can go to autozone and pick one up?
I have to double check tomorrow if it has an o2 sensor.
"- test/measure TPS sensor and idle-switch."
I have no idea how to do this