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nocturncal · October 19th, 2019, 05:41 PM

@DannoXYZ. Pics below. The rack is made of steel.

The metal pipeing that joins to the brackets broke. They were originally welded and 1/8 inch thick. All that Shmoo on those joints in the above photo are the aftermath of trying to only use JB weld.

Also the triangle piece is thin and is slightly bending.

This time around I initially JB welded the joints with fiberglass reinforcement/extra steel shavings and then bolted the joints down.

Then I JB welded 3/8's thick worth of steel across the entire metal brackets to where they meet the pipe and fastened a couple M8 grade 8 bolts through the joints where they cracked off to keep them from seperating. Then I secured the bolts with a nut on the other side so the bolts will squeeze the joints together. Will be testing it out this weekend to see if it holds up.

The holes for the brackets are I believe originally M6 sizes, I drilled em and enlarged them all to accept a 8mm size.

The joints bolted down:

Thicker steel added to the original joints, covered in JB weld Shmoo and then fastened with m8 bolts:

Also u can see the scratches resulting from the original rack bending and breaking ...

Yess....she's not a beauty by any measure. I didn't clean up any of that solidified JB weld because I didn't want to weaken it. Plus, I just needed something functional. If u have a welder, I suggest going that route and DEFINITELY using something larger than 1/8 steel as used in the original product.

FYI adding thicker steel raised the height of the rear seat and you have to add some spacers to raise the locking mechanism for the seat so that it can lock the seat in place. I just added a 1/4 plates and drilled some holes for the bolts, and mount the locking mechanism on top of that. I got longer bolts for all the rack mounts because the added thickness won't work with the original bolts.

I really wish I had a welder....I was looking at options and I'm limited. I only have 110v power with 20 amp breakers

TL;LR:. Anywhere the rack has a bolt hole I added steel, and I drilled holes where the metal pipe meets the mounting brackets and put for bolts in to keep them from breaking.

October 19th, 2019, 05:41 PM	#12
nocturncal ninjette.org member Name: Cal Location: San Francisco Join Date: Jun 2017 Motorcycle(s): '09 Ninja 250R Posts: 180	@DannoXYZ. Pics below. The rack is made of steel. The metal pipeing that joins to the brackets broke. They were originally welded and 1/8 inch thick. All that Shmoo on those joints in the above photo are the aftermath of trying to only use JB weld. Also the triangle piece is thin and is slightly bending. This time around I initially JB welded the joints with fiberglass reinforcement/extra steel shavings and then bolted the joints down. Then I JB welded 3/8's thick worth of steel across the entire metal brackets to where they meet the pipe and fastened a couple M8 grade 8 bolts through the joints where they cracked off to keep them from seperating. Then I secured the bolts with a nut on the other side so the bolts will squeeze the joints together. Will be testing it out this weekend to see if it holds up. The holes for the brackets are I believe originally M6 sizes, I drilled em and enlarged them all to accept a 8mm size. The joints bolted down: Thicker steel added to the original joints, covered in JB weld Shmoo and then fastened with m8 bolts: Also u can see the scratches resulting from the original rack bending and breaking ... Yess....she's not a beauty by any measure. I didn't clean up any of that solidified JB weld because I didn't want to weaken it. Plus, I just needed something functional. If u have a welder, I suggest going that route and DEFINITELY using something larger than 1/8 steel as used in the original product. FYI adding thicker steel raised the height of the rear seat and you have to add some spacers to raise the locking mechanism for the seat so that it can lock the seat in place. I just added a 1/4 plates and drilled some holes for the bolts, and mount the locking mechanism on top of that. I got longer bolts for all the rack mounts because the added thickness won't work with the original bolts. I really wish I had a welder....I was looking at options and I'm limited. I only have 110v power with 20 amp breakers TL;LR:. Anywhere the rack has a bolt hole I added steel, and I drilled holes where the metal pipe meets the mounting brackets and put for bolts in to keep them from breaking. Last futzed with by nocturncal; October 20th, 2019 at 12:28 AM.