Quote:
Originally Posted by almost40
ok lol the manual say never clutchless upshift on every bike. Thats how they get you into the shop for a new clutch. The manual says not to exceed 4000 rpms during break-in for the first 500 miles and 6000 for the next 500. Did you follow that advice too? How about the zinger that says you can go 600 miles on your original oil with all those metal shavings floating around in the engine and gear box?? How about going 7500 miles before you check your air filter? Sounds like great advice to me. NOT. ALL Japanes sport bike are designed to be clutchless upshifted. They are not designed to be clutchless on the downshift. Yes you can do it in a pinch. Hell ive done it once or twice. If you want your transmission to live a good full life I wouldnt recomend it.
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The manual says that you
CAN shift without the clutch. It doesn't specify "upshift" and it doesn't say not to do one or the other either. The implication was to do it in an emergency with a non-functional clutch but, still, it's very different than what you say it says. Only upshifting doesn't help much if you have no functional clutch.
As for clutchless down shifting... how are you doing it? The way I do it, it doesn't feel like it harms the engine at all. At VERY low speeds, it "goes" when the engine lets it go and it slides right in with no real "lurch." You can apply similar upwards pressure to the pedal and upshifting the same way will not work, which is why I have never upshifted clutchlessly.
Downshift method: as you slow down in 6th gear, put some downward pressure on the shifter and maintain it; when the bike reaches somewhere between 21-25MPH indicated (stock gearing), it will simply slide down into 5th. Almost immediately it will be able to slide into 4th, 3rd, and so on, so re-apply the pressure immediately to be ready for it.