Quote:
Originally Posted by choneofakind
My only suggestion is to keep a spare in the garage if you're worried about it. I run aftermarket bixenon projectors and HID bulbs/ballasts in my DD car, and having a spare bulb, ignitor, and ballast on the shelf has proven itself to be a life saver. You'll likely be fine, but there's always that worry.
If you're worried about amp draw at start up, you can always install a short delay timer on the headlight circuit to help further with getting a strong stable idle before firing the headlight. Probably not necessary for LED, but it's one more way you could potentially help your FI setup if needed. I seem to remember your setup being a strong starter though and likely not needing more amps at start up and first idle.
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Good to hear from you, CH. Funny how much time has passed, you and I are now among the long-term members of the forum.
Your memory is accurate, in its original FI configuration the bike didn't have idle-engine-speed power issues.
But this past Spring and Summer I went through the entire bike refurbishing and upgrading it to a better standard. I haven't figured out why yet, but after this re-work the bike would idle at a lower voltage than it did before.
Maybe the cause was that I replaced the '05 alternator rotor with an alternator rotor from a '13 year model. I did this to get the "24 minus 1" ignition control tooth pattern that's on the outside of the later (factory fuel injected) EX300 alternator rotor. So maybe the '13 year model rotor isn't perfectly compatible with the '05 year model stator.
But it sure did seem like a perfect swap, all the dimensional measurements were spot-on and I've done all the Multimeter tests to confirm that the alternator is putting out good AC current. It seems to be doing fine: about 19 volts AC at idle on all three phases and about 60 volts AC at 5,000 RPM.
Also, I replaced the OEM Regulator/Rectifier with an upgrade to a modern MOSFET type and this new R/R also tests out just fine.
So that leaves the possibility there's some component in the newly upgraded FI system that's overly "power hungry" for some reason. I haven't taken the time yet to Multimeter test the Amperage-draw of each individual fuse position in the bike's added-on FI fuse box.
Maybe I'll get around to doing that this winter when the weather gets cold and riding season ends, but for now the bike runs great with the reduced electrical load thanks to the LED lights.