Question for everyone saying not to use thread locker on the bottom bolt:
I have an impact tool and extended hex adapters which are long enough to extract the bolt. I used this to do it without a bench vise or the partially-inserted axel trick. Is there any reason for me to avoid it? I simply don't want the thread locker contaminating my oil but the only concern I saw expressed was being able to get it out again in the future.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cuong-nutz
Hmm. never tore down my forks that far. I would think @ dino74 would know more.
I'm guess the copper ones should slide right off. Might be a tad snug fit. |
I just flexed them right on. Anyway, I have since rebuilt two more sets of forks but I take forever and try to follow directions to the letter as if I don't know what I am doing.
I tried to follow the Clymer manual this time and wanted to share a few notes. I had to reference this DIY more often than the Clymer manual Because they stupidly put the measurements in a table at the end of the chapter which you can't easily reference with oil all over your hands. They had tables at the beginning of the chapter and at the end and it didn't tell you what page or set of tables it was in!
Next, they tell you to take the fork protectors off when there is absolutely no reason. I did for the heck of it and you probably need a second person (I pushed up with two thumbs while my brother pulled off from the top).
Another issue is that they clearly call the lowers "sliders" but then call the fork tubes "sliders" when telling you to use oiled Saran wrap to get the seals on! I was very confused because there were no pictures and everything I could imagine would leave bits of Saran wrap stuck in the forks. What they meant was to use oiled Saran wrap to slip the seals over the tops of the fork tubes before sliding all the way down and driving them into the lowers/sliders.
Lastly, there are NO useful pictures for determining the correct orientation of the seals. I took so long to assemble these that I could not be sure how they were oriented before they came apart. The only mention in he Clymer manual was saying that the "open end" should be oriented out. Uhh... which end is the "open end," geniuses? I had a hunch how they were supposed to be oriented based on how I remembered hammering them in the first time and yet the only end that looked more "open" than the other is the one I remembered going down/in the fork lower (exactly opposite to what they were telling me). Sure enough, one look here tells me that I was right and their advice was useless. At least as far as OEM seals go, the end with a flatter top and a slimmer groove goes up and the end with the wider groove and more open top goes in.