Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob KellyIII
YES ! definitely !
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Bob.....
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https://i.imgur.com/QxEwOjB.jpg
Drained and filled! Unfortunately, turn-over will have to wait since I couldn’t get oil into cylinder 2 yet. If only I had as much light as my camera’s flash provides here!
The bendy spark plug wrench from the owner’s tools pack was nowhere to be found and I ran out of daylight before I could get to the second spark plug with a standard one. Turning it over will have to wait until morning.
I probably would’ve had enough time if I didn’t get pulled over for not having my seat belt on while I backed out of the driveway to get my tools half a block away. I religiously wear it but it was stuck in the door and I planned to deal with it while rolling at walking speed on a private road (totally legal). Thankfully I didn’t get a ticket but it sure didn’t help with the time pressure.
The oil drain and filter bolts were so stuck that I almost forced the bike off the stands! I know they were torqued to spec because I did it but after years of setting in I needed a pipe on my wrench to get them off.
They say not to use gasoline for starting fires, but this stuff is not useful for much else. Certainly not going in any other vehicle’s fuel system. Do I just take it to an auto parts store like I would waste oil? What would you do with oil-contaminated E0?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob KellyIII
the worry is if there is rust on the cylinder walls.... I doubt there is but their could be.... and the cylinders are probably still full of gas ( it takes a while for it to seep past the rings to get into the bottom end.)
but just play it safe and lube up the cylinders with either alot of WD-40 or just plane o'l oil.... take the exhaust pipes off first though so you don't get a bunch of oil in them.... LOL
I expect it will turn through fairly easy which is a good thing... but if it doesn't make sure it is in neutral first and then rock the wrench back and forth to try and brake the rings loose of the cylinder wall ( they rust to the cylinder wall and get stuck ) usually just a few tugs back and forth will brake the stuck rings loose from the wall.... and you'll notice a crunchy hard spot when turning the crank 360 deg. as they come back to that same rusty spot.... that will go away
without having to tear it down and honing the cylinders.... but if you have to tear it completely down anyway, just hone the cylinders and replace the rings
as part of the rebuild.
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I remember making a major blunder in my youth, I was trying to set points on a Zundapp 200cc but when I took off the cover the crank wouldn't turn very far and then sprung back ....so I could not figure it out so I took off the clutch cover and tried to turn it again and saw that the transmition was engaged !!!! I felt like an Idiot ! put it in neutral and it turned real easy !
one of those lessons that you never forget !
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Bob...... |
Thanks. Clutch lever was removed with the forks and handlebars but it was definitely left in Neutral. I actually wanted 1st gear and managed to get it there so that I could tell which way to crank it since I hear the service manual has it backwards. Unfortunately, I didn’t get that far since I couldn’t get oil in cylinder 2 before running out of daylight. I’ll be back at the crack of dawn!
Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ
For this, I recommend product called Liquid Steel. It's 2-part epoxy reinforced with metal powders. I add additional metal shavings for strength. It can be cut, machined and even tapped for threads just like metal!
Fill up that cavity, especially sides where seal would sit. Once you've got seal supported underneath, that should be good. Also a little Yamabond-4 when re-assembling takes care of any gaps. Testing out repair 1st on electrolysis bath would be good trial run.
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Thanks. I’ll probably combine parts between the two petcocks with a rebuild kit to see if I can get a working one but the rusty part of the tank this is supposed to seal to will probably be a problem even if I buy another brand new one. It was painted so I figure I’ll need to wirebrush it to get the rust off and then repaint. Since this rust is on the outside I can’t expect the electrolysis to get it… unless I can use the corroded petcock plug in a way that lets the electrolyte down there but still stops it from leaking freely.
Since it’s a temporary plug, maybe I should leave out the rubber seal and use liquid gasket around it, deliberately letting the electrolysis electrolyte in-between to work on the external rust. You’ve given me a great idea. Thanks!
