Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ
Yup, most of my bikes have 1" threaded steerers (only one is newer threadless design with clamp-on stem). I prefer to use needle-bearing headsets for durability and light weight.
I've found, like many bike-mechanics, that if you hold adjustable-cup steady while tightening lock-nut, it increases bearing-preload slightly and ends up tighter than you want. So it's simple process to do push them together to lock and adjustment ends up perfect.
It's opposite on threaded adjustable-cup bottom-bracket. Tightening lock-ring pulls out adjustable-cup and loosens bearing. I use two tools and tighten both adjustable-cup and lock-ring simultaneously to maintain same bearing pre-load.
I think in your case, previous shop messed up because they didn't fully lock adjustable-cup and lockring fully together. This allowed upper triple-T nut to finish removing slack between them and increase bearing-preload. I use fishing-scale to pull on lower triple-T (90-degrees to rotation) to measure bearing-preload/drag before & after installing upper triple-T. Shouldn't be any difference. |
Needle bearings are a blessing for this type of applications. Can 250 be converted to use them in the head tube instead of lose balls?
I read someone was suggesting fishing scales. What value do you consider being normal to start the rotation? I read somewhere 2lbs would be about right.