[DannoXYZ]

Sitting for 2-years would definitely cause issues with petrol. Do not replace perfectly working parts with brand-new perfectly working parts until you've measured original parts and the numbers are out-of-spec. Otherwise you end up with lots of perfectly good spares that may never ever get used. Meanwhile, bike still doesn't work. For example:

1. I think ignition-switch and immobilizer in ECU are matched set. By replacing IG & ECU, this introduces additional possible errors into system. We don't know if new IG & ECU combo works together, so they need to be tested on another working bike to verify they work for more than 15-seconds. Might also want to verify with another shop that immobilizer is actually defeated.

What you can do is re-install original IG-switch and ECU and hot-wire/jumper switch to turn on and crank engine. This will rule out or implicate new switch & ECU combo as culprit. Can't be certain about them yet.

2. is it exactly 15-seconds after starting that it dies? This really sounds like fuel-flow issue... similar to clogged petcock on carby bikes.

3. have you tried running bike with gas-cap open?

4. measure tip-over sensor with multimeter. What is output voltage with sensor flat? With sensor tilted 75-degrees?

5. measure vacuum going to MAP-sensor by installing T-fitting in-line on same hose. Vacuum-readings being off may cause improper fueling. What are vacuum readings?

6. measure output-voltage from MAP-sensor at idle and right before engine engine stops. What are they?

7. measure impedance of inlet air-temp sensor at 0C and 80C. What are they?

8. measure impedance of O2-sensor heater at 20C. Is it within spec?

9. measure output waveform of O2-sensor with oscilloscope.

10. Measure position of TPS and verify with multimeter that idle-switch is closed. Otherwise ECU will not know that throttle is closed.

11. Clicking sounds can be sign of bad sub-throttle motor and/or sensor. Although bad TPS angle can throw those off

12. measure voltage at fuel-pump. What is it when engine stops after 15-seconds? This is to narrow down cause depending upon whether it's ECU that stops or fuel-pump that stops.

13. how did you measure pressure at pump? Did you also do flow-test? Volume and pressure are not same thing with an inverse relationship. Higher-pressure results in lower flow. Failing pumps often reduces volume output more and more while maintaining same pressure. Failing pumps may generate sufficient pressure under static test conditions, but will not be able to maintain pressure AND flow under actual operating conditions. So measure pressure while engine is running. What is pressure when engine stops? What is flow-rate for 3-seconds?


Also are these new parts actual OEM parts from dealer? There's A LOT of aftermarket crap parts sold by local or online shops that are bad right out of box. Really, really bad... they too need to be tested and measured to arrive at numbers to confirm they are good before installing. I just went through FOUR different fuel-pumps for my wife's Lexus. First 3 from 3 different auto-parts stores appears to be perfectly normal pumps, but when tested under pressure for flow, they all failed test. Final and 4th pump was actual Denso unit that came from local Toyota dealer and it passed all tests beforehand. So it was only one that was installed and rest returned. Without testing, you have no idea if part is good or bad and will end up buy enough spare parts to build 2nd bike.