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Old May 21st, 2018, 09:10 AM   #13
jp8484
ninjette.org member
 
Name: James
Location: Canada
Join Date: Oct 2017

Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250

Posts: 69
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkv45 View Post
You can just go into the sump from the fill hole and pull some out. Removing the drainplug or filter can be unpredictable and not necessary if you are only removing a small amount.

Dropping the idle to the recommended 1300 will make it stall easier than with it at 1500. For now you could just leave it until everything else is sorted.

When tuned properly it will need some choke to start most of the time (unless the engine is hot) but should not need it for more than a minute or so in order to idle without it. Start it up, get the idle speed set to about 2500 with the choke position, then turn it down as soon as it will stay running.

During that time get your gear on and get ready to go. No need to see the temp gauge needle move in order to start riding. It will warm up a lot faster (which is better) with normal riding at moderate RPMs than it will idling.
thanks for the help!
good to know about idle speed at 2500 while warming up.. I just pushed it all the way but will keep it lower going forward.

I haven't had the same issue since.. so I'm gonna assume this happening was due to rider error.. I just remembered I also changed clutch free play so perhaps that was the issue.

Thanks guys!
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