[corksil]

Originally Posted by Triple Jim

I asked about your 2-stroke experience because of starting and jetting. As subxero was saying, something is wrong if it doesn't start easily when warm, and once you get a good cold procedure, it should start almost as easily then.

Yeah it's kind of tricky to wrap my mind around. On a chainsaw or weedwhacker with pull-start, I estimate that a good strong pull would spin the engine over 10-12 times based on displacement and engine compression. On the 500, two combustion strokes per kick is a lot more tiring in terms of starting effort.

I don't like the spoke sealing method in the link you posted. I like methods like the one that has you put a sticker over each nipple to keep sealer off, and then silicone over it all. Or the more expensive kit you can buy that gives you tape that covers all the nipples. The Seal-All method look like it will prevent you from being able to true the wheel, and even though it's a good product, it hardens a bit too much for that application. Like if a nipple gets jarred, its sealer may crack loose from the rim.

Good points. The problem with expensive kits that come with tape is [aside from being expensive] that if a single spoke nipple develops a leak -- the entire wheel must be re-done with another [expensive] kit. By having each spoke nipple independently sealed, repairs to the system can happen more quickly and with less effort or cost.

Woody's Wheel Works has a video that shows how they seal wire spoked wheels. I can't remember if I found it on their site, or on YouTube, but it's worth taking a look at. I think it was a short segment in a longer video about their business.

I'll check it out.

A lot of tubeless tires are also OK with tubes, but just don't say so in the literature. Check with the manufacturer. They usually have a statement that says all their tires are OK with tubes, or all except particular lines are OK with tubes, etc..

Good info.